10 historic Greek wonders away from the islands
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Greece is home to some of the world's most extraordinary heritage sites. These range from ancient buildings — such as the extraordinary monasteries of Meteora, perched high on sandstone pinnacles, and the Parthenon temple in Athens — to the pretty, pastel-hued villages that line the coast. There are marvels of engineering, too, including the Corinth Canal, which connects the Ionian and Aegean Seas, and the fortified island town of Monemvasia, which seems to tumble down the cliffs straight to the sea. 1. Parthenon
Nothing bellows 'Ancient Greece' like the Parthenon, the crowning glory of the hilltop Acropolis citadel and visible all over Athens. The temple was built by hand from white marble in 447 BCE to give thanks to Athena, goddess of wisdom and military victory, who locals believed saved the city during the Persian Wars. Its treasures take centre stage in the Acropolis Museum. A glass chamber displays the temple's near 200ft-long frieze, with carvings so intricate and vivid, you can almost hear the thunder of hooves. acropolis-tickets.com 2. Rock churches of Meteora
'Suspended in the air' is the rough translation of Meteora, and it's a fitting description of its most famous assets: six still-functioning monasteries, dating from the 14th to 16th centuries, perched on soaring sandstone pinnacles. Each is unique and, if you've got the puff, accessible – but don't neglect the less obvious architectural treasures, visible (if not reachable) from the thickly wooded trails threaded between these natural pedestals. These include cave churches, ascetics' lofty hollows, and a six-storey hermitage built into the cavity of a sheer rock face, which is so intricate and implausible it could be a fairy house. 3. Kavala
Jutting out into the turquoise Aegean Sea, Northern Greece's 'Blue City' spells out its history in architecture. It was under Byzantine rule until the Ottomans rocked up in 1387, razing the acropolis and building a hulking 15th-century fortress in its place. The Turkish influence can still be felt in the cobbled alleys of the medina-like old town, Panagia, with its tangle of pastel-painted houses and hidden courtyards. Seek out the late-Ottoman Mohammed Ali's House, where the former ruler of Egypt was born in 1769, and the blush-hued Halil Bey Mosque, before tackling the climb to the castle for soul-soaring views. 4. Soufli
Pressing up against Turkey, the town of Soufli in Greece's Evros region gained fame across Europe for its silk production in the 19th and early 20th centuries, a wealthy legacy mapped out in mansions and bitziklikia, or 'cocoon houses', built specifically for it. A major stop on Greece's Silk Road, the river valley was once cloaked in mulberry trees that fed the silkworms. This heritage is woven into its one-of-a-kind industrial architecture. Narrow, cobbled streets lead to stone-and-timber buildings unravelling the history of production. For insights into the town's rich past, visit the Art of Silk Museum, lodged in a beautifully restored neoclassical house, and the chimney-topped Tzivre Silk Factory, founded by the Ceriano Fratelli company from Milan in 1910. 5. Corinth Canal
Pushing through solid limestone and creating a short-cut between the Ionian and Aegean seas, the four-mile-long, 80ft-wide Corinth Canal is an engineering marvel. The tyrant Periander dreamt up the canal in the sixth century BCE, but was afraid building it would provoke the wrath of the gods. Roman emperor Nero had no such qualms and struck the first blow himself with a golden pickaxe in 67 BCE. The canal was finally completed by the French in the 19th century. With sheer walls towering 300ft above the water, it's an impressive sight. You can travel along it, on cruises lasting around 90 minutes. The tyrant Periander dreamt up the Corinth Canal in the sixth century BCE, but was afraid building it would provoke the wrath of the gods. Photograph by Getty Images; Giacomo Augugliaro 6. Ancient Messini
In the southern Peloponnese, Ancient Messini delivers a shot of history without the madding crowds, with ruins as vast and impressively intact as those in much busier Olympia. The city-state was founded in 371 BCE after the Thebans defeated the Spartans at the Battle of Leuctra. And if you believe local legend, Zeus was born here and raised by nymphs Neda and Ithomi. History and myth intertwine as you explore its theatre, bathhouse, Doric temple and vast agora (marketplace), once the ancient city's beating heart, framed by stoas (columned porticoes). Just as compelling are the Sanctuary of Asclepius, an ancient healing temple, and one of the largest and best-preserved stadiums in Greece, where once Roman gladiators did bloody battle. 7. Monemvasia
The island Monemvasia off the Peloponnese's east coast, linked to the mainland by a short causeway, was founded by the Byzantines in the sixth century, making it one of Europe's oldest continuously inhabited fortified towns. Once a strategic port on Eastern Mediterranean shipping routes, its past glory is etched out in its rock-top medieval citadel, Kastro. A wander through the cobbled lanes of the lower town brings you to the main square and church of Christos Elkomenos, filled with Byzantine icons. A steep path clambers up to the medieval castle ruins for arresting views out to sea. 8. Ancient Olympia
The Olympic flame still burns brightly in Ancient Olympia in the Peloponnese, where the modern-day games have their Greek origins. From 776 BCE to 393 CE, the Olympics were held here quadrennially. Myth has it that Zeus, king of gods, victoriously wrestled his father Kronos for the throne at the first games. As you wander the sunlit ruins, scattered among plane and olive trees, you can almost envisage the athletes and the cheering spectators. Follow the trail past the gymnasium, palaestra (wrestling school) and Workshop of Pheidias – where the now-lost ivory-and-gold Statue of Zeus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, was sculpted – to reach the sacred sanctuary of Altis, and finish at the nearby archaeological museum. 9. Ancient Mycenae
In Homeric lore, the most powerful Greek ruler at Troy was Agamemnon, king of Mycenae, immortalised in the 8th-century BCE epic poems The Iliad and The Odyssey as a citadel 'rich in gold'. Indeed, this was the greatest of Mycenaean cities in the late Bronze Age, its influence extending from the Argolis region of the eastern Peloponnese to the world beyond. You can still feel the rumble of history and myth as you pass through the mighty Lion Gate and the Cyclopean Walls – lore has it the namesake one-eyed giant built them from huge, rough-hewn limestone boulders. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the expansive, captivating ruins, encompassing royal tombs, apartments, artisans' workshops and Agamemnon's Palace reflect the dazzling scope of human genius. 10. Nafplio
Greece isn't short of attractive coastal towns, but Nafplio blows most straight out of the water. And it has plenty of history to back up those good looks. A major port since the Bronze Age, when it was crowned by Akronafplia Fortress, the bijou city in the Argolis region of the eastern Peloponnese briefly served as capital of the newly independent Greek state until Athens took over in 1834. Its old town is one of Greece's loveliest, with streets lined with pastel-hued Venetian mansions and bougainvillea-draped neoclassical houses leading to cafe-rimmed Syntagma Square. And that's before you reach its biggest showstopper: Palamidi Fortress, a top-of-the-rock, early 18th-century Venetian citadel that is a masterpiece of engineering. Puff up 999 steps to the top for front-row views over city and sea. Published in the April 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here.(Available in select countries only).
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How Santiago became the holy grail of pilgrimages
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Some cheer, some clap, some clasp each other's shoulders in quiet ecstasy. One lets his walking stick fall to the ground, one kicks her walking boots off, another stretches his sore back and sighs. But most sit on the cobbled square and lean back, resting on backpacks stuffed like pillows. In front of them, the cathedral's western towers reach heavenwards, and seem even taller from this low angle. With no farther left to walk, the pilgrims lie and stare. 'Lying in the Praza do Obradoiro at the end of the Camino de Santiago is a tradition,' says guide Maria Guerra Gomez of 1 2 Tours, her halo of black curls bouncing with her nods as we watch pilgrims take in their first sight of the square's imposing cathedral. We're exploring Santiago de Compostela, the capital of Spain's northwestern Galicia region and one of the major centres of Christianity alongside Rome and Jerusalem. 'I did it, too — and thought the facade would topple over.' I see what Maria means. Made of light granite and dotted with the carved shapes of scallop shells — an ancient symbol of the Camino de Santiago (Way of St James) pilgrimage — the cathedral looks like a giant, ornate sandcastle that could be blown away by a strong gust of wind from the Atlantic. Yet, a church has stood on this site since the ninth century, when — according to tradition — the remains of Santiago El Mayor (St James the Great) were discovered here. So the legend goes: the saint was one of the Twelve Apostles and part of Jesus' three-man inner circle. Following his martyrdom in Jerusalem in the first century, he was buried in the Iberian Peninsula, where he'd introduced the Gospel. The location was lost to time, until mysterious lights led a local hermit deep into a forest to the sepulchre. A shrine was built to mark the site, and the cult of Santiago was born. The faithful from across Europe began trekking to see the holy relics — and never stopped, forever changing the fortunes of the area. In response to their influx, the shrine grew into a cathedral, and a city developed around it. The network of trails leading to Santiago de Compostela became the Camino de Santiago, one of the biggest pilgrimages in the world by any measure. In 2024, a record half a million travellers 'completed' it, walking or cycling 100 or 200 miles to the city, respectively. The appeal of the Camino now goes far beyond its religious foundations, with a new generation of pilgrims coming for quiet contemplation and the chance to immerse themselves in nature. In the square, I meet a Polish graduate who likens the path to a Catholic prayer, and a Dutch writer who trekked it to set resolutions for personal growth. I hear stories of a French girl who came on foot from her front door, and a Swiss man who kept walking long past the finish line. 'I did it to prove I could do it,' says Maria. Born in Spain's Canary Islands to a Galician mother, she first saw Santiago de Compostela at the end of her pilgrimage, and she's now lived in the city for more than 20 years. 'It welcomed me with open arms, and it expressed to me the entire Camino. I felt like I was back in medieval times, and maybe the pilgrims of old felt the same things I was feeling.' Some of the traditions set by those early pilgrims are still observed today. Maria leads me inside the cathedral, down the simple, Romanesque nave to the gold-plated, baroque Main Chapel. We join a queue for the customary circuit of the altar: down into a crypt to see the relics, a silver casket in Santiago's ancient tomb, then up via a passageway to hug his statue, which dominates the structure. A man before me places his hands and forehead on the bust, closes his eyes and pauses, a moment so intimate I shift my gaze. Walk around the Old Town, and you'll find this deep sense of spirituality is built into the city itself. We pass the monastic complex of San Martín Pinario, which offers guest rooms reminiscent of monk's quarters, empty but for wrought-iron beds and writing desks. Then there's the monastery of San Paio, where cloistered Benedictine nuns sell tarta de Santiago, almond pies bearing the Santiago Cross, another symbol of the pilgrimage. Visitors ring a bell, and receive their order through a revolving window. We reach Mercado de Abastos, the city's food market and second main attraction. It's made up of eight granite halls, each with an entrance reminiscent of a Romanesque chapel, with long aisles like naves. On display are crates of cachelos (Galician potatoes) and grelos (turnip greens), Iberian hams and chorizos. 'The architect wanted to create a cathedral of products,' says Maria, handing me a slice of mild tetilla cheese to sample, which is made from cow's milk. Producers have been coming here to sell their wares since the 19th century. 'Some 80% of Galicians still live in the countryside, and our coast is so rich in seafood,' says Maria, as we pass thick piles of ice topped with velvet crabs, octopus and percebes (goose barnacles). Scallops, the shells of which we saw earlier, carved into the stone of Santiago Cathedral, are on offer as well, of course. 'The cult of food, too, forms a strong part of our culture.' Santiago himself used to be a fisherman. According to the Bible, Jesus nicknamed him 'Son of Thunder' due to his temper. The moniker seems fitting given that in Galicia, his supposed place of rest, it rains for around 150 days a year on average. The resulting landscape is so green, it could pass for Wales; Santiago de Compostela is actually one of the cities with the highest square footage of park space per inhabitant in the whole of Spain. After leaving Maria, I head to Parque de San Domingos de Bonaval, the former estate of a Dominican convent that sits on a hill on the outskirts of the Old Town. I stroll to the oak grove at its top; looking down, I take in the view of the city's rooftops and cathedral towers, which gradually fades into a haze in the far distance. All this was built for the pilgrims, who arrived step after step, century after century; the cult of Santiago is shrouded in lore, but this much can't be denied, a fact as miraculous as anything here. So, I take my cue and sit on the grass, lie back and stare. Published in the June 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
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How this Spanish city became the holy grail of pilgrimages
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Some cheer, some clap, some clasp each other's shoulders in quiet ecstasy. One lets his walking stick fall to the ground, one kicks her walking boots off, another stretches his sore back and sighs. But most sit on the cobbled square and lean back, resting on backpacks stuffed like pillows. In front of them, the cathedral's western towers reach heavenwards, and seem even taller from this low angle. With no farther left to walk, the pilgrims lie and stare. 'Lying in the Praza do Obradoiro at the end of the Camino de Santiago is a tradition,' says guide Maria Guerra Gomez of 1 2 Tours, her halo of black curls bouncing with her nods as we watch pilgrims take in their first sight of the square's imposing cathedral. We're exploring Santiago de Compostela, the capital of Spain's northwestern Galicia region and one of the major centres of Christianity alongside Rome and Jerusalem. 'I did it, too — and thought the facade would topple over.' I see what Maria means. Made of light granite and dotted with the carved shapes of scallop shells — an ancient symbol of the Camino de Santiago (Way of St James) pilgrimage — the cathedral looks like a giant, ornate sandcastle that could be blown away by a strong gust of wind from the Atlantic. Yet, a church has stood on this site since the ninth century, when — according to tradition — the remains of Santiago El Mayor (St James the Great) were discovered here. The appeal of the Camino now goes far beyond its religious foundations, with a new generation of pilgrims coming for quiet contemplation and the chance to immerse themselves in nature. Photograph by Alamy, Hemis So the legend goes: the saint was one of the Twelve Apostles and part of Jesus' three-man inner circle. Following his martyrdom in Jerusalem in the first century, he was buried in the Iberian Peninsula, where he'd introduced the Gospel. The location was lost to time, until mysterious lights led a local hermit deep into a forest to the sepulchre. A shrine was built to mark the site, and the cult of Santiago was born. The faithful from across Europe began trekking to see the holy relics — and never stopped, forever changing the fortunes of the area. In response to their influx, the shrine grew into a cathedral, and a city developed around it. The network of trails leading to Santiago de Compostela became the Camino de Santiago, one of the biggest pilgrimages in the world by any measure. In 2024, a record half a million travellers 'completed' it, walking or cycling 100 or 200 miles to the city, respectively. The appeal of the Camino now goes far beyond its religious foundations, with a new generation of pilgrims coming for quiet contemplation and the chance to immerse themselves in nature. In the square, I meet a Polish graduate who likens the path to a Catholic prayer, and a Dutch writer who trekked it to set resolutions for personal growth. I hear stories of a French girl who came on foot from her front door, and a Swiss man who kept walking long past the finish line. 'I did it to prove I could do it,' says Maria. Born in Spain's Canary Islands to a Galician mother, she first saw Santiago de Compostela at the end of her pilgrimage, and she's now lived in the city for more than 20 years. 'It welcomed me with open arms, and it expressed to me the entire Camino. I felt like I was back in medieval times, and maybe the pilgrims of old felt the same things I was feeling.' In 2024, a record half a million travellers 'completed' the pilgrimage through the Camino de Santiago, walking or cycling 100 or 200 miles to the city, respectively. Photograph by AWL Images, Hemis Santiago himself used to be a fisherman. According to the Bible, Jesus nicknamed him 'Son of Thunder' due to his temper. Photograph by 4Corners Images Some of the traditions set by those early pilgrims are still observed today. Maria leads me inside the cathedral, down the simple, Romanesque nave to the gold-plated, baroque Main Chapel. We join a queue for the customary circuit of the altar: down into a crypt to see the relics, a silver casket in Santiago's ancient tomb, then up via a passageway to hug his statue, which dominates the structure. A man before me places his hands and forehead on the bust, closes his eyes and pauses, a moment so intimate I shift my gaze. Walk around the Old Town, and you'll find this deep sense of spirituality is built into the city itself. We pass the monastic complex of San Martín Pinario, which offers guest rooms reminiscent of monk's quarters, empty but for wrought-iron beds and writing desks. Then there's the monastery of San Paio, where cloistered Benedictine nuns sell tarta de Santiago, almond pies bearing the Santiago Cross, another symbol of the pilgrimage. Visitors ring a bell, and receive their order through a revolving window. We reach Mercado de Abastos, the city's food market and second main attraction. It's made up of eight granite halls, each with an entrance reminiscent of a Romanesque chapel, with long aisles like naves. On display are crates of cachelos (Galician potatoes) and grelos (turnip greens), Iberian hams and chorizos. 'The architect wanted to create a cathedral of products,' says Maria, handing me a slice of mild tetilla cheese to sample, which is made from cow's milk. Within Santiago de Compostea's Old Town, there's the monastery of San Paio, where Benedictine nuns sell tarta de Santiago, almond pies bearing the Santiago Cross. Visitors ring a bell, and receive their order through a revolving window. Photograph by AWL Images, Hemis Producers have been coming here to sell their wares since the 19th century. 'Some 80% of Galicians still live in the countryside, and our coast is so rich in seafood,' says Maria, as we pass thick piles of ice topped with velvet crabs, octopus and percebes (goose barnacles). Scallops, the shells of which we saw earlier, carved into the stone of Santiago Cathedral, are on offer as well, of course. 'The cult of food, too, forms a strong part of our culture.' Santiago himself used to be a fisherman. According to the Bible, Jesus nicknamed him 'Son of Thunder' due to his temper. The moniker seems fitting given that in Galicia, his supposed place of rest, it rains for around 150 days a year on average. The resulting landscape is so green, it could pass for Wales; Santiago de Compostela is actually one of the cities with the highest square footage of park space per inhabitant in the whole of Spain. After leaving Maria, I head to Parque de San Domingos de Bonaval, the former estate of a Dominican convent that sits on a hill on the outskirts of the Old Town. I stroll to the oak grove at its top; looking down, I take in the view of the city's rooftops and cathedral towers, which gradually fades into a haze in the far distance. All this was built for the pilgrims, who arrived step after step, century after century; the cult of Santiago is shrouded in lore, but this much can't be denied, a fact as miraculous as anything here. So, I take my cue and sit on the grass, lie back and stare. 1 2 Tours offers private, customisable tours of the city. Stay at Hospedería San Martín Pinario, a guesthouse in the namesake monastic complex. Doubles from €149 (£125). From Santiago de Compostela airport, it's a 20-minute taxi ride to the city; booking transfers in advance is recommended, especially in high season (July to September). This story was created with the support of the Spanish Tourist Office. Published in the June 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK). To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
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Where to find the perfect gelato in Rome
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). There's never a wrong time for gelato in Rome. But nothing beats the sensation of cooling down with a deliciously fresh scoop on a hot summer day. With hundreds of gelaterie (ice cream parlours) across the Eternal City, the challenge isn't finding gelato, it's finding the best one. But what, exactly, is gelato? This is one of the most common questions people ask when visiting Rome, and while both ice cream and gelato are beloved frozen treats, the difference between the two lies in the ingredients, texture and how they're served. Gelato contains more milk and less cream than ice cream, resulting in a lower fat content, which some people find easier to digest. It's churned at a slower speed, incorporating less air, which gives it a denser, silkier texture. And because gelato is served at a slightly warmer temperature, its flavours come through more vividly, delivering a more intense taste experience. And like ice cream, those flavours are as numerous as the people that create them: from time-honoured classics like zabaglione, pistachio and stracciatella to bold, seasonal creations like peaches and white wine, or wild strawberries and basil. Here are our top choices of gelaterie in Italy's Eternal City. Topping the list is Gelateria Fassi, a true Roman institution that has been serving gelato since 1880. While a few popular gelato spots in the city have leaned into a more touristy feel, Fassi has stayed refreshingly true to its roots. This family-run gelateria in Esquilino, east of the centre, blends a simple, old-fashioned ice cream parlour setting with a forward-thinking array of flavours, drawing a loyal mix of locals and tourists. Apart from the classic cones and cups, there are also indulgences including a Sicilian-style brioche filled with gelato, or one of Fassi's signature creations: the sanpietrino, a bite-sized chocolate-covered semifreddo dessert named after the famous cobblestones that pave most of the city. Cup/cone with two scoops from €1.80 (£1.50). Tucked into one of the Trastevere district's many alleys, this innovative gelateria hasn't even hit its 10-year mark (modern by Roman standards), yet it's already earned a cult-like following among locals and even a top spot in the coveted rankings of the Gambero Rosso food guide. Otaleg (yes, that's 'gelato' spelled backwards) is where tradition meets wild creativity. Its classic flavours including pistachio, hazelnut and chocolate are exceptional, but the real fun lies in the more daring creations. White chocolate laced with mustard, a salty-crunchy version of pistachio, or an unexpected tomato-sausage-chilli concoction from Calabria known as 'nduja. The fruit flavours vary with the seasons, and you'll be able to find things like wild strawberries, loquats and sour cherries. Small cup/cone with one scoop, €2.00 (£1.70). Perfect after an afternoon shopping around the nearby Spanish Steps, Ciampini is located off the charming, pedestrian-only Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina. This family-run bar has roots going all the way back to 1943, and gelato isn't the only thing it serves; the venue offers the complete bar-cafe-restaurant experience and it's one of the best places in the city for people watching. You can grab a cone for a stroll or sit down and savour your gelato while taking in the scene on the piazza, maybe with a spritz cocktail in hand. Ciampini uses high-quality ingredients including organic milk and eggs, and every flavour is rich and carefully crafted. Don't miss the classic cioccolato, or raspberry with Nutella. Small cup/cone with two scoops, €2.50 (£2.10). After a visit to the Colosseum, head to the pretty Monti neighbourhood for some vintage shopping and a gelato at this tiny spot, which is beloved by both locals and tourists. The owners have recently renovated and (slightly) expanded into the next-door property but continue to serve extremely high-quality artisanal gelato year-round. There are both lactose-free and vegan options and the fruit flavours follow the season, which is always a great sign. It's not always available but seek out the vegan Nutella – it will be one of the best things you'll taste while in Rome. Small cup/cone with three scoops, €2.50 (£2.10). With three central locations in Rome, Gelato by Günther started in 2012 with a single shop, where the focus was (as it still is across this boutique franchise) on quality over quantity. Every element that goes into the gelato is meticulously sourced: organic milk from nearby farms, fruit chosen at peak ripeness, and pure spring water drawn from the mountains in northern Italy. This is gelato made with precision and purpose. Among the standout flavours, the 'mugo pine' is an Alpine-inspired scoop that's a must for those looking for something truly unique. Small cup/cone with two scoops, €3.50 (£3). Rome's Testaccio neighbourhood, also known as the meat-packing district, is a working-class area that's always had a strong sense of community, and Brivido has been a local favourite since 1986. This unassuming gelateria quietly keeps alive the art of traditional gelato-making, producing small batches each day with a strict no-additive policy: no artificial colours, sweeteners or preservatives. The menu features a mix of traditional flavours and creative ones associated with regional Italian desserts that bring back childhood memories. For added extravagance, you can opt to dip your gelato in warm melted chocolate. Small cup/cone with two scoops, €2.50 (£2.10). Via Giovanni Battista Bodoni, 62, 00153 Roma RM To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
