Shein hype dominates social media, but in Europe the firm is accused of greenwashing
Boasting of 'Shein haul' purchases, the brand's fans dominate TikTok and Youtube, pointing out that new outfits can appear in a swipe, wrapped in plastic and delivered almost at the speed of scrolling.
Online influencer culture means Shein remains popular in Australia, but behind the aesthetic, a backlash is brewing, and Italy and France are leading the way.
On Monday, Italy slapped Shein with a €1 million ($1.7 million) "greenwashing" fine for misleading customers on the environmental impact of its products.
The Chinese e-commerce giant also faces a possible €150 million ($267.8 million) in France for failing to properly get consent to track users on the internet.
Italy's competition authority (AGCM) said the environmental sustainability and social responsibility claims promoted on Shein's website "were sometimes vague, generic, and/or overly emphatic, and in other cases omitted and misleading".
Areas of the site under investigation included #SHEINTHEKNOW, evoluSHEIN and Social Responsibility.
The Italian watchdog said it launched an investigation in September into the multi-billion-dollar company's "increased duty of care" for operating in a "highly polluting sector with highly polluting methods".
In 2023, Shein's sustainability report revealed the company's carbon emissions had almost tripled in three years, making it the biggest polluter in the fashion industry.
Over the past month, France has slapped Shein with fines which could potentially equal up to €190 million.
In July, a French regulator faulted the fast-fashion retailer for using trackers to target advertising to users without the approval required in Europe.
The brand could now face a possible €150 million fine.
It also found during a 2023 inspection that when users refused the tracking cookies, Shein continued to read information from them.
A final decision on fining the fast-fashion giant has not been announced.
Shein called the proposed amount of the fine "disproportionate", in a statement sent to AFP.
"Since August 2023 we have actively worked with the CNIL to ensure our compliance and respond to their queries," the firm said.
Weeks earlier, France's antitrust agency fined Shein 40 million euros for alleged deceptive business practices.
The agency said Infinite Style E-Commerce Co Ltd, which handles sales for the Shein brand, had misled customers about misleading discounts, and on its environmental impact, following a nearly year-long probe.
The company accepted the fine.
From TikTok hauls to Insta-ready aesthetics, Shein isn't just selling clothes, it's feeding a digital subculture of hyper-consumption and micro-influencers.
On one end, Gen Z swarms social media with #sheinhauls, a hashtag with more than 1.1 million posts on Instagram alone.
In the clips, influencers talk about clothing affordability — including $6 tops and $20 dresses — aspiration, and algorithm-fuelled style.
Over 75 per cent of Shein shoppers are female, in line with the platform's biggest category, women's clothing.
The online retailer is growing in popularity in Australia, earning a place in one of the top five websites for apparel and fashion, according to online analytics firm Semrush.
Roy Morgan data also suggests Shein's shopper base in Australia grew by 34 per cent from October-December 2023 quarter to April-June 2024.
Shein has also recorded annual sales of more than $1 billion in Australia, according to the Australian Financial Review.
The ABC reached out to Shein for comment.
ABC with wires
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