Cuerno New York Brings Carne Asada to Midtown
Carne asada has made a comeback to what was known as Time & Life Building in Rockefeller Center. It was on the menu when La Fonda del Sol opened there in early 1960s. Like its predecessor, Cuerno occupies the ground floor but with a Josper charcoal oven used for grilling steaks. There are ceviches and other seafood preparations, tacos assembled tableside, and dishes like charcoal-roasted cauliflower by the executive chef Oriol Mendivil. Folkloric touches and a vibrant mural enliven the dining room, which seats 102 (plus another 100 or so at the bar, on the lower level and outdoors).
1271 Avenue of the Americas (51st Street), 332-269-0094, cuernony.com.
Midtown and the Upper East Side are no longer the sole hotbeds of top-of-the line French dining in New York. The latest addition is on the Lower East Side with the chef Richard Farnabe, who has put his stamp on many restaurants during his three decades in New York, including Mercer Kitchen and Picholine, in charge of the kitchen. It's the work of Nur Khan, who has a number of places in his quiver. The French menu with American elements includes tuna tartare, mushroom mille-feuille, gem lettuce salad with peanut dressing, Dover sole, duck breast and steak au poivre. The candlelit art-filled room is outfitted with plush banquettes and a marble bar. (Thursday)
217 Bowery (Rivington Street), 646-668-7738, maisonnur.nyc.
An alternative to driving out to Montauk for a seaside supper is this City Island spot, where diners on a waterfront deck shaded by an awning can savor clams in white wine, hamachi tiradito, crab cakes, braised short ribs, lobster ravioli and paella marinera. But don't count on a lobster roll. The spacious restaurant, which also has indoor seating, is by Rafael Robles, who owns Vistamar nearby, and Josh DeCuffa, a City Island resident. The chef is José Castillo.
555 City Island Avenue (Cross Street), City Island, Bronx, 646-375-3133, atikrestaurant.com.
The chef Peter He's Williamsburg restaurant has added an indoor-outdoor extension on the eighth floor, with a retractable roof and great views along with Sichuan sizzle. Small plates fired up with dan dan noodles and tamed with vegetable dumplings, among other dishes, can be paired with drinks like the Dragon Lagoon combining mezcal, lychee, lime and ginger. (Wednesday)
Coda Williamsburg Hotel 160 North 12th Street (Berry Street), Williamsburg, Brooklyn, 516-960-1936, meiliwilliamsburg.com.
A 10-course omakase lunch on the run (one hour) is $60, and 15-course dinner (plus an appetizer, 90 minutes) is $100. It's owned by Denise Chung and her daughter, Ayana Chen, who have put the chef Jason Lin and his team at the 20-seat sushi counter. Dessert is extra and the bar is limited to wine, beer and sake.
1695 Broadway (53rd Street), 917-993-4528, koeteomakase.com.
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How a 'crush' on Loni Anderson helped a gay boy navigate his teenage years
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