Normandy's seafood-packed city that's easily reached by ferry
Dieppe's coastal location unquestionably shaped its evolution from a small 11th-century settlement to a medieval centre of trade, cartography and crafts.
By the 16th century, Dieppe was one of France's most important fishing ports and had long waved renowned navigators off to the New World. Rebuilt following the Anglo-Dutch bombardment of 1694, Dieppe was the site of the country's first sea-bathing resort in 1824 and was later the scene of the Allies' disastrous 1942 Dieppe Raid.
• Read our full guide to Normandy
Today the city is recognised as a 'Ville d'Art et d'Histoire' and hosts an award-winning, town-encompassing market every Saturday. Plus, it's home to the International Kite Festival every two years (it takes place this September) and the lively Herring and Scallop Fair in November — a nod to the industry on which Dieppe was founded.
• Morning: Dieppe castle — Château de Dieppe• Lunch: L'Ô2 Mer• Afternoon: 19 August 1942 Memorial museum• Drink at: Café des Tribunaux• Evening: Passage Obligé• Dinner: La Cale
• Morning: Tour Le Pollet• Lunch: Bistrot Chez Polette• Afternoon: Navigation Normande boat trip• Drink at: Moment Café• Evening: Two churches • Dinner: Comptoir d'Huîtres
• An eclectic collection of artwork adorns the walls of Dieppe castle — Château de Dieppe — a fortification that dates from the 15th century. Dieppe's story is told through paintings, sculptures and objects, including the country's largest collection of carved ivory. Idle in the map room and on the ramparts (£6; Rue de Chastes). • Step inside the ornate 19th-century Italian-style theatre — now the 19 August 1942 Memorial Museum — to learn about the Dieppe Raid, aka Operation Jubilee, which saw the greatest single loss of Canadian life in one day in the Second World War. The theatre, where a few Allied troops took refuge, hosts a detailed exhibition including a moving film (£5; 1 Place Camille Saint-Saëns).• Disappear into this shop that's a treasure chest of trinkets, jewellery, clothing and homewares tucked in a cobbled courtyard off Dieppe's pedestrianised shopping street, Grande Rue. Browse fish-eye mirrors, colourful kaftans, bold necklaces and ceramics under the side eye of the resident miniature dachshund (178 Grande Rue).• Venture across the bridge to Le Pollet, a neighbourhood with its own traditions. Pass street art in the alleyways, see Dieppe's oldest timber houses, visit the hilltop chapel dedicated to sailors lost at sea and eat at the unassuming restaurant Les Voiles d'Or with its one Michelin star (2 Chemin de la Falaise). Call for a harbour-view café au lait (from £3).• Take to the top deck for some sea air on a leisurely 75-minute round cruise out of Dieppe harbour westwards towards Varengeville-sur-Mer. The captain's commentary, which covers history and geology, is in French with the occasional gag that needs no translation (from £12, peche-location-dieppe.fr).• Pop into St Rémy, which took more than a century to build from 1522. Don't miss the striking 17th-century split Renaissance columns on the façade. Then, a few streets away, find the gothic St Jacques church. Some of its earliest parts date from the 12th century (free).
Lunch beneath low-hanging lanterns and filament bulbs in this contemporary beachfront restaurant alongside the old casino. Delve into staples such as oysters, moules-frites (with Roquefort cheese sauce) and beef tartare. Ask for a window seat to the sea or head for the sheltered terrace (mains from £13; 101 Boulevard de Verdun).
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Last of the traditional giant bistros, this imposing brasserie is an institution in Dieppe, not to mention a terrific suntrap for an evening tipple. The interior drips with vintage glamour. From 6pm to 8pm is Wine O'Clock. Ask for a pleasing £4 house wine (1 Place du Puits Salé). Drinks from £4; cafe-des-tribunaux-restaurant-dieppe.fr).
Settle in for a French feast at this cosy corner bistro where the chalkboard changes with the produce available. Start with the signature egg on watercress and follow with market-bought fish and sauce of your choice. Wash the lot down with a bottle of crisp, sparkling Normandy cider (mains from £11; 34 Rue Jean Antoine Belle Testé).
A nautical theme runs through this popular dining spot where wood-panelled walls are bedecked in fishing nets, shells and rope-strung lights. A simple menu featuring oysters and what is said to be the best fish and chips in Normandy tantalises, although whelks with mayo are a juicy speciality (mains from £12; 18 Quai du Carénage).
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One for coffee aficionados, find quality caffeine in laid-back surroundings opposite the church of St Rémy. Dark walls are dressed with colourful artwork while mid-century furniture gives it a slightly retro feel. Nab a table on the pavement if the weather is behaving; don't leave without a bag of Normandy-roasted coffee (drinks from £3; facebook.com/momentcafedieppe).
Facing the docks, this restaurant specialises in fresh seafood. Sit beneath the beautiful vintage tile work and enjoy oysters, squid or sensational grilled razor clams. Stay for the largest yet lightest, cream-stuffed, chocolate-drizzled profiteroles you've laid eyes on (mains from £21; 12 Cour de Dakar).
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Dog-friendly and facing the seaLocated on the wide grassy promenade across from the beach and just minutes from the town centre, this dog-friendly, three-star hotel offers views across the Channel from its minimalist rooms (ask for one with a roll-top bath). For extra space, book the panoramic duplex. The breakfast features DIY boiled eggs, fruit and croissants. Go green by saying no to room cleaning and you'll enjoy a glass of fizz in return (room-only doubles from £88; laplage-dieppe.com).
Modern spot with a spaBuilt onto the ruins of Dieppe harbour's medieval ramparts, this modern hotel offers simple sophistication. Situated at the far edge of the marina, it's in the thick of waterfront bars and restaurants. The in-house spa offers tempting treatments while the raised Le Patio terrace is equally inviting for an aperitif. Rooms are minimalist with white sheets and natural tones. Go for a balcony room to enjoy a private view of the marina below (room-only doubles from £118; latourauxcrabes.com).
In the shadow of Dieppe's castle museum and next to the town's last remaining gate from the 14th-century wall, the Mercure hotel promises comfort beneath the Étretat cliffs. Rooms are smart with a flash of colour, statement lamps and king-sized double beds as standard — be sure to secure one with a sea view. Start your day in the fourth-floor breakfast room, where floor-to-ceiling windows guarantee an unrivalled view of the Channel. (B&B doubles from £148; all.accor.com).
Sail into Dieppe harbour in four hours with DFDS ferries, which crosses twice daily from Newhaven, East Sussex (from £20 for foot passengers and £100 for a car and up to four people (dfds.com). Alternatively, catch the Eurostar to Paris, then rail services via Rouen to Dieppe.
Central Dieppe is compact and easy to get around on foot. The free and electric DeepMob shuttle bus also scoots visitors around the main attractions from the railway station, while the bus network (tickets £2) includes the centre and other districts.
Dieppe is a year-round seaside resort so avoid the heaving summer beach by visiting in spring or autumn, the latter coinciding with its festivals. It's a short walk from the ferry terminal so you don't need a car, but if you are if travelling by car, explore further into Normandy to squeeze more from your crossing.Kirsten Henton was a guest of Dieppe Normandie Tourisme (dieppetourisme.com), Normandy Tourism (normandie-tourisme.fr) and DFDS
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