This seaside European city has transformed from shabby to chic

The Age

21 hours ago

It's been many years since I was last in Nice, and its transformation is both unmistakable and impressive. Traditionally, the French Riviera's humble (some might say shabby) seaside capital, overshadowed by its more glamorous neighbours Monte Carlo and Cannes, the city has been quietly reinventing itself as a sophisticated alternative to its glitzy cousins, with several five-star hotels opening in recent times.
Here to celebrate Virgin Australia's return to long-haul flying via its new partnership with Qatar Airways, we're staying at one of these, the Anantara Plaza. It's a Belle Époque hotel set a block back from the Promenade des Anglais (and close to new designer stores along Rue Paradis), that has been smartly renovated in a collaboration by three different design and architecture studios.
There are custom art pieces; bespoke furniture inspired by the hotel's coastal location, and references to local landmarks, such as the chessboard tiles in the entranceway that echo nearby Place Masséna.
The rooftop bar and restaurant, Seen by Olivier, is the place du jour for sweeping views from the mountains to the Baie des Anges, the perfect accompaniment to your breakfast pain au chocolat or sunset glass of champagne.
Not far away, the Hotel du Couvent, a former 17th-century convent set at the base of the Colline du Chateau, the hilltop park that dominates the old town, has undergone a meticulous and thoughtful €100 million renovation, which has taken it from derelict buildings to stunning 88-room hotel.
Original colonnades and terracotta floors have been restored to reflect its monastic past, and it features three restaurants, multiple pools including Roman baths, a serene wellness studio for yoga (no unattractive weights room here) plus a bakery and a herbalist shop.
Meanwhile Vieux Nice, the city's historic centre once characterised by narrow, car-clogged streets, is now a vibrant pedestrian-friendly zone, a modern tram system running through the city's revitalised core.
History and tradition still abound, of course: perennial favourites in the old town are the Cours Saleya flower and produce market; Maison Auer, a rococo-decor chocolatier opposite the Opera House where candied fruits are considered a chic gift to buy, and Restaurant Acchiardo for its Nicoise specialties including stuffed vegetables and pan bagnat. Hole-in-the-wall Chez Theresa is the place to get your socca (chickpea flatbread/pancake) and pissaladiere (onion tart).