REVIEW: ‘The Bear' season four is a triumphant return to form
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Season three ended with the fate of the titular restaurant in the balance as the team — led by star chef Carmen 'Carmy' Berzatto (Jeremy Allen White), his mentee Syd Adamu (Ayo Edebiri), maître d'hôtel Richie Jerimovich (Ebon Moss-Bachrach), and business manager Natalie 'Sugar' Berzatto (Abby Elliott) — awaited a make-or-break review in the Chicago Tribune. That's quickly resolved: Despite some highly positive comments, the review is ultimately a dud — thanks largely to Carmy's stubborn insistence on changing the menu daily; a choice that isn't just leading to inconsistent performance from his team, but in heavy hits to the budget as they can't bulk buy from suppliers.
So, that old enemy time takes center stage, as financial backer Uncle Jimmy (Oliver Platt) and his ruthless cost-cutting friend The Computer install a countdown clock in the kitchen, giving the team 1,440 hours to save itself. That clock hits zero in the excellent final episode.
In between times, the development of several characters' back stories that contributed to the feeling of aimlessness last year starts to pay off here, as much of the action is taken out of the kitchen and into a deeper exploration of what the show is really about: family — the ones we're born into, the ones we choose, and the ones that choose us. Once again, there's a Berzatto (extended) family get-together at the season's heart in a one-hour episode set at Richie's ex-wife's wedding. The stage is set for another dysfunctional social disaster. Instead, we get something altogether warmer but equally dramatic. It's exceptional television.
At the heart of it all is the characters' continued quest for self-improvement — from Tina's attempts to improve her cooking speed, through Syd's efforts to silence her self-doubt, to Carmy's endeavors to allow emotional connections into his life and stop self-sabotaging.
This season may still be a little too slow for those pining for the claustrophobic hyperactivity of season one, but the creators have found a sweet spot here between that and the stagnation of season three. 'The Bear' is back.
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