
Join Us to Celebrate 20 Years of Eater at Eater Off Menu
Timed to Eater's 20th anniversary, this year's Off Menu event will feature an Eater-curated lineup of dishes from culinary icons, served across distinct areas that each focus on an essential trend of the last 20 years, from maximalism to mashup desserts and everything in between.
The culinary talent on hand represent the most influential of the new millennium from across the country; think legends like Sean Brock, Jason Wang, Nancy Silverton, and Cristina Martinez, and can't-miss restaurants like Tatiana, Momofuku, Carbone, Bar Contra, Hani's, and Via Carota (see the full, and still growing, list here). It all goes down at a landmark New York City venue in Chelsea, and will feature immersive brand activations like a Hong Kong-style dim sum cart from Cathay Pacific, a meatless ode to the diner from Impossible Foods, a DIY popcorn station from Vitamix, gourmand-inspired cookies from Jo Malone, plus more surprises from Coca-Cola and others. Greg Baxtrom from the World Central Kitchen Chef Corps will be on hand as well, serving signature dishes and sharing the WCK mission.
Want early access? Capital One cardholders can purchase an exclusive Preview Hour ticket that gets you in the door before everyone else, and includes champagne, a dedicated concierge check-in, exclusive perks at featured food and drink stations, a gift bag, and other surprises. So join Eater, a cavalcade of chefs and restaurants, and your fellow restaurant lovers as, together, we celebrate and experience the most influential 20 years in food.
Eater Off Menu Presented by Capital One
Where: 527 W. 26th St. in New York City
When: Saturday, September 20
7 to 10 p.m. ( 6 to 7 p.m. preview hour for Capital One cardholders
Tickets: $175 per person
Limited Time 'Chef's Special:' two for $300, 4 for $500*
*Chef's Special: To purchase two tickets for $300, input the code 2TIX next to the name of the first registrant. To purchase four tickets for $500, input the code 4TIX next to the name of the first registrant. The codes will work once per order and the discount will be applied to your final transaction amount.
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Newsweek
2 hours ago
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Sydney Sweeney's 'Great Jeans' Illuminate the Dangerous Resurgence of Eugenics
American Eagle came under fire recently for an ad campaign featuring actress Sydney Sweeney. In one ad, Sweeney fiddles with her jeans, saying, "Genes are passed down from parents to offspring, often determining traits like hair color, personality, and even eye color. My genes are blue." A male narrator finishes with, "Sydney Sweeney has great jeans." It's a play on homophones, but the wordplay reveals a more sinister element: Sweeney does not just have great American Eagle jeans, she has great American genes. Picking a blonde, blue-eyed, able-bodied all-American girl was not an accident. It was about showcasing what are "good genes," and thus what are "bad genes." It's a modern eugenics movement proudly re-emerging amid a welcoming political climate. A window display of actress Sydney Sweeney is seen on a window of an American Eagle store on Aug. 1, 2025, in New York City. A window display of actress Sydney Sweeney is seen on a window of an American Eagle store on Aug. 1, 2025, in New York City. Michael M. Santiago/Getty Images The American eugenics movement has historically promoted the superiority of Anglo-Saxon, able-bodied, wealthy people, leading to harmful policies from the Immigration Act of 1924 barring immigrants from Asia to a practice of unnecessary and undisclosed hysterectomies performed on Black women in the South so widespread it was coined the "Mississippi appendectomy." Eugenicists promoted anti-miscegenation laws and forced sterilization of those in prison and in poverty and of those with disabilities or mental illness. These practices have not died. In 2020, low-income immigrant women detained by ICE in Georgia were forcibly sterilized. As we hear rhetoric from the current administration about immigrants "poisoning the blood" of our country, it invites horrifying thoughts of what may be happening to immigrants currently being detained by ICE. Even more sinister, however, is a modern eugenics movement camouflaged by in vitro fertilization (IVF). IVF is increasingly popular, and rightfully so. Couples with fertility issues can conceive. Women can freeze eggs. Queer couples can have genetically related kids. IVF can also ostensibly prevent harm. IVF clinics might screen embryos for sickle cell disease, cystic fibrosis, BRCA1, and Down syndrome. Things get confusing and uncomfortable, however, when we try to define what harms are worth preventing. In a world where whiteness and conventional beauty are tightly coupled with success, couldn't selecting for these features be a way to minimize a child's future suffering? Most sperm donor companies have a height minimum of 5'9". Harvard graduate egg and sperm donors are highly sought after. While it's hard to fault parents for wanting the best for their children, as a geneticist, it is concerning to me how much stock people put into the inheritance of such complex and environmentally influenced traits. With biotech companies explicitly offering genetic testing, I am even more concerned. Last October, Helios Genomics offered to boost a couple's future child's IQ via genetic screening. Nucleus Genomics recently took this a shocking step further by announcing it is offering genetic testing for traits like eye color, hair color, height, BMI, and IQ. Companies perform these screens with polygenic risk scoring, which makes use of genetic mutations identified from large scale population studies to be associated with a complex trait like intelligence. But these findings are just that: associations. We barely understand the true, context-dependent function of all the genes and mutations associated with complex traits. 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In this modern era of eugenics, as immigrants are expelled while neo-Nazis spew hateful theories of "great replacement," it is no wonder American Eagle felt bold enough to declare that Sydney Sweeney has great genes. America must reject this renewed, government-endorsed eugenics. Scientists must think deeply about ramifications: Just because we can, or think we can, does not mean we should. IVF companies should be barred from making false promises about the heritability of traits like intelligence, BMI, and hair color. While fatal diseases like breast cancer are fair to select against, prospective parents should think twice about what is lost when selecting for subjective social norms. We all have great genes and we all deserve a society that embraces us, that makes us feel whole, and bold, and beautiful—like a pair of great jeans. Tania Fabo, MSc is an MD-PhD candidate in genetics at Stanford University, a Rhodes scholar, a Knight-Hennessy scholar, a Paul and Daisy Soros fellow, and a Public Voices fellow of The OpEd Project. Her PhD research focuses on the interaction between genetics and diet in colorectal cancer risk. The views expressed in this article are the writer's own.


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Eater
3 hours ago
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A Sneak Peek at the Stunning Dishes Debuting at the Happy Crane
is the regional editor for Eater's Northern California/Pacific Northwest sites, writing about restaurant and bar trends, upcoming openings, and pop-ups for the San Francisco Bay Area, Portland, Seattle, and Denver. Chef James Yeun Leong Parry is opening his highly anticipated modern Cantonese restaurant the Happy Crane on Friday, August 8. This is the crowning achievement of his culinary career thus far, which spans Michelin-starred restaurants in Hong Kong (Bo Innovation), Japan (Nihonryori RyuGin), and the United States (Benu). For the last year or so, he's been touring the Happy Crane around San Francisco as a pop-up. Fittingly, he's found a home in the location of Benu chef Corey Lee's former restaurant, Monsieur Benjamin, in the busy Gough Street corridor. His vision is 'to represent something that feels authentic, that is rooted in traditional flavors,' he says, but given its San Francisco location, the Happy Crane will also be taking advantage of local seasonal produce with a mashup of traditional and modern cooking techniques. 'What I hoped to represent is food that doesn't look overly complicated, but actually in the back end, that's where the work is,' Parry says. 'The real hard work is in the preparation and the techniques.' Read on for the inspiration and details behind four dishes on the Happy Crane menu. XO Little Fry King Jeremy Chiu Parry calls the XO Little Fry King, 'a wok dish that's super flavorful, very umami-forward.' It's a street food made in dai pai dongs, or food stalls in Hong Kong, incorporating vegetables and dried seafood, like shrimp and fish. In Parry's version, he focuses more on folding in fresh seafood. Cantonese food is highly seafood-focused, and that's something that he is passionate about. Parry will change this dish with the seafood 'seasons'; at the restaurant launch, the dish stars abalone, but he hopes to swap in shrimp or firefly squid when it's the right time of year. Parry works around the chewy qualities of the abalone through Japanese knife techniques, tenderizing it with thin knife cuts before lightly steaming the meat. This gives the abalone, as Parry puts it, 'the right amount of bite, but it's not overly chewy and still showcases the freshness of the ingredient.' The abalone is then stir-fried with bay shrimp, salted duck leg in place of the more traditional Jinhua ham, Chinese chive flowers, Jimmy Nardello peppers, bean sprouts, and cashew nuts. It offers different textures with the chewiness of the abalone, the crunch of the vegetables, and the umami notes of the XO sauce. 'It looks simple, but actually there's real tension and thought behind it — and it's tasty,' Parry says. The XO sauce is worthy of its own write-up. As Parry explains, 'It's a labor of love in that there's just a lot of steps, then the yield is quite small.' As Jinhua ham is not allowed into the United States, he is instead making a duck ham, air drying it in the walk-in and adding it to his XO recipe, along with dried scallop and shrimp, raw and dried chiles, garlic, and shallots. The sauce then marinates for six days before it's used in this stir-fry dish. Eventually the team will scale up the amount of XO they make, but for now, this is the only dish it stars in. 'Truthfully, the reason for that is, I'm really stingy about it,' Parry says, laughing. 'It's so labor-intensive.' Crab rice roll Jeremy Chiu Parry admits that cheung fan, or rice rolls, are more of a dim sum brunch dish, 'but I wanted to serve it as a dinner item, almost like a noodle, where we freshly mill the rice ourselves,' he says. He does not include any flour in his batter; instead, the bouncy, chewy gelatinous texture is achieved through soaked jasmine rice ground on a stone, then steamed. Parry's rice roll is a nod to another dish, similar to a hor fun with gravy — a less common dish at restaurants, he says — so his version comes with a sauce made of crab butter made of crab shells, chicken stock, and Shaoxing wine. The rice rolls are then dressed in this sauce and topped with Dungeness crab, Chinese celery, and yellow chives. Brent Wolfe quail Jeremy Chiu Parry admits he is also very passionate about Cantonese roast meats, and from the start, his team makes its own char siu, or Chinese barbecue pork; siu yuk, a Cantonese roast pork belly; and quail (with plans to expand the offerings down the line). He uses quails from Brent Wolfe, whom Parry calls one of the best quail purveyors in the country. For this dish, Parry takes Cantonese roast duck cooking methods and applies them to this smaller bird, dry-aging it up to six days for a crisp skin. The duck is marinated in their house-made five spice, along with ginger and fresh and dried spices, along with a glaze. The dish requires a three-step preparation: First, he cooks it at a low temperature before tossing it over a charcoal yakitori grill. It's then finished at a high temperature 'fry' where hot oil is ladled over the bird to crisp up the skin at the end. The bird is then served, bone-in, claw and all, with a side of Sichuan pepper-salt and fresh lime, plus salted, pickled Tokyo turnips to reset the palate. Mochi Rocher Jeremy Chiu Ferrero Rocher chocolates are a favorite gift to give family and friends around Chinese New Year, Parry says, and it serves as the inspiration for his dessert jian dui, or fried sesame dumplings. Traditionally filled with red bean paste or lotus seed, his version is instead filled with dark chocolate ganache and a candied, salted hazelnut, plus a chopped hazelnut exterior. Parry makes his dough with both rice flour and glutinous rice flour. The dark chocolate ganache is then portioned out with the candied hazelnut at the center, and frozen, before it's wrapped in the dough. The dumplings are then rolled in those toasted hazelnuts, rather than the usual sesame seeds, then fried to order. The result is a still-warm dumpling with a runny chocolate center; to complete the look, it's presented in a Ferrero Rocher-like wrapper. 'It's just a fun, fun way to end dinner, that's not too sweet,' Parry says. The Happy Crane (451 Gough Street) debuts Friday, August 8, and is open Tuesday through Saturday, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Reservations can be made via OpenTable. Jeremy Chiu Jeremy Chiu Eater SF All your essential food and restaurant intel delivered to you Email (required) Sign Up By submitting your email, you agree to our Terms and Privacy Notice . This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.