A tale of two noodles: The best ‘char kway teow' and ‘wantan mee' in Cheras at this steamed fish head restaurant in Taman Connaught

Malay Mail

2 days ago

KUALA LUMPUR, Aug 12 — Imagine a mess of noodles still glossy with oil: some broad ribbons, others thinner strands.
Prawns, juicy and sweet; crisp, fresh bean sprouts; soft curds of egg and flecks of charred garlic; luscious blood cockles nestled here and there; everything embraced by the fire's brief, furious breath.
A plate of Penang char kway teow is a fine thing; one perfectly executed with such verve and wok hei a rare find.
This is but one of two remarkable noodle dishes that draw the faithful to Restoran Dai Be Steam Fish Head in Taman Connaught, Cheras.
Despite its name, Restoran Dai Be Steam Fish Head is a typical 'kopitiam' by day. — Picture by CK Lim
Kopitiam by day, daichow restaurant by night, this corner lot coffee shop doesn't look that different from others of its ilk.
If in the evenings, regulars file in for fresh steamed fish, then in the morning one is greeted by stalls busy with the familiar choreography of breakfast as the same regulars settle down for their usual orders of prawn mee or nasi lemak.
While the shop's steamed fish head is indeed popular, our friend who stays in Cheras insisted we come in the morning, recounting how her parents come two, three times a week, never straying from their favourites.
Look out for these two stalls for Penang 'char kway teow' and 'chasiu wantan mee'. — Picture by CK Lim
Look out for the two stalls for Penang char kway teow and chasiu wantan mee, she instructs us; that is what her Mom and Dad always order, and they know their stuff. Professionals hunting at kopitiam treasures.
Lucky for us, then. So we do as we are instructed and act accordingly.
Thankfully, we needn't search all that hard. The coffee shop draws a sizeable breakfast crowd and many diners are after the same noodles as us. We join them happily, quickly grabbing a table that was just vacated and wiped down.
The coffee shop draws a sizeable breakfast crowd in the morning. — Picture by CK Lim
Two cups of kopi O arrive soon after we are seated, black as midnight. There is no beverage quite like a local coffee shop brew, with its roasted aroma and faint oily sheen.
The grains of sugar resting at the bottom of the cups are meant to be stirred, but we almost always forget so that the first sip is always bitter; a necessary wake-up jolt.
An Americano or a shot of espresso just doesn't quite hit the spot when you're enjoying a plate or two of kopitiam noodles.
The first is the aforementioned Penang char kway teow, of course; the second is the wantan mee – and please make sure to get the signature chasiu wantan mee.
What we are presented with is a neat coil of egg noodles doused in a generous splash of seasoned soy sauce.
Cups of robust 'kopi O'. — Picture by CK Lim
The tight folds of noodles remind us of ramen chefs would layer pleats of ramen in the same way.
That tautness extends to the al dente bite – each strand offers a satisfying chew, never too soft.
Atop this nest rests KL style chasiu (so different from Melaka style chasiu and equally rewarding in its own way). Caramelised, almost lacquered, the edges are the best bits, slightly charred and smoky-sweet.
Then there are the plump wantans, their skin as soft and slippery as silk (for the ultimate – and forgive me for employing this overused word – mouthfeel), with morsels of prawn and pork within like hidden gems.
Chasiu wantan mee'. — Picture by CK Lim
Let us not forget the char kway teow. Crucially, the choice of two types of noodles – flat rice noodles, the kway teow inherent in its name, as well as yellow mee to offer a contrasting texture ensures every bite is a revelation.
I have already noted how the noodles, slick with soy sauce and oil, carry a fleeting kiss of the wok's fierce heat. But equally important is the ample bite offered by the big prawn, larger than what you'd normally get at char kway teow stalls elsewhere.
It's something to relish; it feels sweeter almost. Here, apparently, size does matter.
The finishing touch, the pièce de résistance, if you will, comes in the form of nuggets of fried pork lard. Each golden cube is infused with smoke and soy, and provides all the richness required from its own rendered fat.
How indulgent!
'Al dente' noodles and plump 'wantans'. — Picture by CK Lim
The only headache here might be to choose between either the Penang char kway teow or the chasiu wantan mee every time you visit. We suggest you never come alone, so you may share.
Or better yet, if you do dine by yourself, it's never too gluttonous to order a plate of each. (Truly. Trust me on this.)
Just take your time to slowly savour each bite, to revel in smoke and fire, in sweetness and salt, in glorious grease, as you partake of what is, for my money, some of the best char kway teow and wantan mee in town.
Restoran Dai Be Steam Fish Head
119, Jalan Sarjana,
Taman Connaught,
Cheras, KL.
Open Thu-Tue 6am-8pm, Wed closed
• This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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