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Exploring Egypt: Nile cruise offers comfort and culture for solo travellers

Exploring Egypt: Nile cruise offers comfort and culture for solo travellers

NZ Herald14-07-2025
Today, the Nile continues to be a revered life force for more than 100 million Egyptians, their way of life immersed deeply in its storied waters. Children splash about while cows bask in its refreshing embrace, with towering palm groves acting as the gateway to lush farmland, humble villages and a way of life untouched by modernity.
Locals cast their nets for fish from their wooden boats, a sight I encounter from the ship – but that's not the only boat on the water with us. As I'm sitting in my suite – a spacious and modern retreat complete with balcony – I hear 'hello, hello, hello'. I look down and two young Egyptians have tied their boat to ours, gliding with us on the Nile's glistening waters. These cheeky boys have made this a habit to sell local items like pashminas – one of which was thrown up to me on my balcony.
Egyptians can be persistent when selling their wares in tourist areas. This is why travelling on tour in Egypt helps – local guides know how to navigate the situation. Speaking Arabic works, but it's their presence that does the talking. The vendors soften their approach when they notice a local because they know the guide will protect the group from unwanted sales tactics.
In saying that, Egyptians are some of the friendliest people, many of whom are so grateful for business, so carrying Egyptian pounds does a world of good – as does fresh meat for the cats and dogs at ancient sites. (I can't help but bring fresh sausages and chicken from the breakfast and lunch buffet with me each day).
There are 27 of us on the AmaWaterways tour, each coming from locations all around the world. Eleven nights together encourage new friendships, one of my favourite things about travelling as a group. You can't help but get to know your fellow passengers, and that's a luxury when travelling solo. I find myself dining with a husband and wife and their two daughters several times, bonding over the shared love of refraining from placing suitcases on the bed. Sure, sometimes it's nice to have your own space, but this cruise has a way of allowing for that, too.
After three days staying at the St Regis Hotel on land exploring all the ancient sites in Cairo, from Saqqara to the Pyramids of Giza to the brand new Grand Egyptian Museum, Coptic Cairo (where Mother Mary and baby Jesus found refuge and baby Moses was found in a papyrus basket by the pharoah's daughter) and Mohammad Ali Mosque, we're off to board the ship, which awaits in Luxor, a one-hour flight from Cairo. Mohammad Ali Mosque Cairo. Photo / Lauren Thomas
The morning of our first day, the sunrise over the Nile's east bank reveals striking crimson hues with hot air balloons dotted across the sky – a sight that sets the tone for the magic that awaits. It's no accident that the ancient Egyptians built the Karnak and Luxor temples here; it symbolises the 'land of the living'.
On the west bank, however, where the sun sets, you'll find the realm of the dead – a place of transition to the afterlife for the pharaohs. This is where the Valley of the Kings – home to Tutankhamun's mummified corpse and the Temple of Hatshepsut, Egypt's most powerful female pharaoh – can be found. Tutankhamun's Mummy within the Valley of the Kings. Photo / Lauren Thomas
It's no secret that ancient Egypt holds a tapestry of hidden stories, many of which come to life through the insight of an Egyptologist – an expert in the study of history, language, religion, literature and art, including the translation of hieroglyphics. These are found inside tombs and temples – a mystical door unveiling ancient worship, rituals, beliefs and offerings held sacred by the ancient Egyptians. The Hatshepsut Temple is in Luxor. Photo / Lauren Thomas
This is an inclusion on the tour that proved to be invaluable. I liken it to school, when everyone gets on the bus that takes you to all the best places while listening to the teacher, except this time, you want to be there.
As I walk through Karnak Temple in Luxor, the group encounters a black scarab statue celebrated for its luck. The modern tradition is to walk around the statue seven times while making a wish – particularly for marriage, love, and fertility. This is something I wouldn't have known if my guide hadn't pointed it out. Temple of Edfu between Luxor and Aswan (dedicated to Horus). Photo / Lauren Thomas
It's tales like this that reveal Egypt as a fascinating destination with many ancient and cultural layers. It's a wondrous place where organised chaos meets serenity and peace – a living paradox – breathtaking and confronting all in one.
After a day of exploring the ancient sights, the heat begins to take a toll, which makes returning to AmaLila a welcome relief, particularly with its onboard refreshments and cold towels on arrival. Less than one year old, the vessel is modern and fresh with an upper deck worth mentioning: crisp, white sun loungers submerged in the pool with sand-fringed umbrellas bring the resort feel as you watch the world go by. And that it does, when you're in a cooking class learning how to make Egyptian doughnuts or 'zalabya', one of the many activities on board.
If I'm not eating, I'm drinking, but not the alcoholic kind (although there are some fabulous cocktails, spirits and wine on board). My favourite is the fresh watermelon juice, off menu, made courtesy of my bartender, Ahmed. A camel waits patiently at the Pyramids of Giza complex. Photo / Lauren Thomas
As night falls, the entertainment on board begins, each evening something a little different – like the belly dancer who sways to the rhythm of the riqq, a classical Egyptian tambourine. Then it's time for dinner, with a la carte three-course selections changing daily – a nice touch that curbs culinary boredom. There's also the 'Chef's Table', an optional experience on board for guests who want something a little special.
On the other hand, breakfast and lunch offer a buffet-style feast with an abundant, ever-changing selection of fresh ingredients daily from the land, earth and sea. A mosaic in the historic Coptic Cairo area represents Mary, Joseph and the baby Jesus on their flight from Herod into Egypt. Photo / Lauren Thomas
Another true standout alongside the local on-board dining experiences is the team and their ability to make you feel safe. From the cruise manager and Egyptologist to the friendly bus driver and security guard, each of them allows you to immerse yourself in the country's ancient wonders, minus the stress of navigating language barriers, different customs and cultures. Whether it's organising your entry visa or simply keeping an eye out for you in crowded places, they have a knack for taking care of your every need, and as a result, it offers reassurance for solo female travellers exploring this exciting destination.
The journalist was a guest on the Secrets of the Nile travel tour courtesy of AmaWaterways.
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Exploring Porto: A four-hour food tour of Portugal's culinary delights
Exploring Porto: A four-hour food tour of Portugal's culinary delights

NZ Herald

timea day ago

  • NZ Herald

Exploring Porto: A four-hour food tour of Portugal's culinary delights

We waste no time and head straight out along Rua de 31 de Janeiro, towards the Douro River. As we walk, she shares that the river once divided Christian and Muslim populations, and how Portugal's famous colourful tiles are leftover heritage from Arabic people in the 20th century. Eventually, we join a crowd hustling to get into the city's central train station. It's odd to consider tourists stopping by Auckland's Britomart Train Station, but then again, it's not a 19th-century building like São Bento Station. São Bento Station in Porto, Portugal. Photo / Sarah Pollok Inside, the waiting pays off. The interior walls are covered in gigantic blue and white tiles, reaching across the ceiling like a Portuguese Sistine Chapel. More than 20,000 azulejo tiles depict historic events and daily Portuguese life in history, from epic battles to ancient festivals. Alas, this is a food tour, so we don't linger and head up a street lined with lush green trees that dapple the 11am sun. On Saturday, the streets are abuzz with people enjoying the downtown; families and couples, friends and travellers. Our first proper stop is Manteigaria for arguably one of Portugal's most iconic food items: pastel de nata. No, the pastries aren't just a tourist gimmick, Carlotta assures me, locals enjoy them just as much as visitors. Our Porto food tour guide, Carlota Braga. Photo / Sarah Pollok 'I'm very picky about the tarts,' she adds. 'We often enjoy them with an espresso and, well, if you like, a cigarette,' she laughs. Fortunately, picky is a quality one wants in a food guide. Outside Manteigaria, a crowd stands before the tall glass windows, behind which three white-aproned chefs deftly roll and shape pastry in a mesmerising rhythm. Minutes later, Carlotta appears bearing a tray with a dozen tarts and thimble-like cups of espresso. Pastel de nata (Portuguese tart) from Manteigaria in Porto. Photo / Sarah Pollok 'Cinnamon or sugar,' she asks before dusting the tarts. Stepping away from the group, I have a quiet moment with my first Portuguese tart, which is light yet creamy, only slightly sweet and perfectly offset with the nutty cinnamon. It is, quite simply, divine. Slowly savouring it over four leisurely bites, I rush to knock back the espresso and follow the group two metres up the road to Comer e Chorar Por Mais. 'It translates as 'To eat and cry for more',' Carlotta translates, hinting at what we'll enjoy inside. After a few blinks, my eyes adjust to the dim little gourmet deli. Two large glass cases groan with countless varieties of deli meat and giant legs of dried ham, while shelves wrap around the walls, stacked with lemon liquor and tinned sardines, local preserves and olive oil, while dusty bottles of port precariously graze the ceiling. A charcuterie board at Comer e Chorar Por Mais. Photo / Sarah Pollok Circling a barrel-turned table, a sheet of paper is removed to reveal a platter of bites that allow us to travel without moving an inch. On one board is South Portugal (where meats can be air dried by the drier climate) via ribbons of cured black pork (Porco Preto), which comes from the Alentejo region and fed primarily acorns. Another board holds North Portugal (where meat is typically smoked) selections, from chestnut-fed pigs. In the middle, several types of 'Amanteigado' sheep cheese ('the best in Portugal', beams Inês, the warm shop keeper) and chunks of squishy cow cheese. Then, to the side, some juicy black olives, a dish of fragrant olive oil and plate of wheat bread and 'broa de Avintes' a dark, doughy, rye bread popular in the North. Grabbing a slice, I dunk it into the oil and it tastes like a sun-soaked olive grove. White wines soon arrive and conversation turns to general culture as we pick at the treats. We chat about university culture in our respective countries and the pagan roots of popular Portuguese festivals. Plates cleaned, it's on to Mercado do Bolhão, a market dating back to 1914. 'It was renovated during Covid and some say it's lost its charm,' Carlota says as she guides us through the open-air building, which is roughly the size of two football fields and filled with covered stalls. At the entrance, people eat or relax alongside dozens of tables and bar leaners and lost charm aside, I do enjoy the clean white walls, pristine concrete floors and light floral smell. Mercado do Bolhão, Porto. Photo / Unsplash Grouped roughly by category, the stalls all sell food either in ingredient form or as a dish. There are dried mushrooms and tiny hot sauce bottles, busy crepe stands and pyramids of colourful sardine tins. If you should want for a bulb of dried garlic, shucked oysters, fresh juice or coffee beans, this is the spot. That most people roam around with full glasses of white and red wine also feels deeply European. Sardines are a popular dish in Porto. Photo / Sarah Pollok Having gone 30 minutes without food, it's absolutely time for another bite, and this time we walk up Rua de Santa Catarina and down an unsuspecting alley to a literal hole-in-the-wall joint. Inside Casa Louro, it would be easy to mistake the shoebox restaurant for an FC Porto fan club, decked entirely with the team's blue and white paraphernalia, from team posters and fake trophies to scarves and jerseys. Inside Casa Louro. Photo / Sarah Pollok 'It's hard to be in the city and not support a football team,' Carlota explains. First up is a small mug of yellow, effervescent 'Green wine', which comes exclusively from Minho and is named for the rainy region's verdant landscape. Strong, tart and chilled, it's the perfect summer drink according to Carlota, and has become a popular drink in the past two decades. In the 30C heat, it certainly hits the spot. Then come the plates, bearing tiny salted fish, cured pork, broa de Avintes, and my favourite, Bolinhos de bacalhau. A Portuguese speciality, the crispy deep-fried pillows contain a mix of potato, flour and salted cod, which has the most unusual soft yet fibrous texture and briny flavour. After describing the dishes, conversation turns cultural as Carlota answers our curiosities about life in Porto and the politics. Eloquent yet humble, she describes the current climate and recent history. Like other countries, Portugal recently swung conservative after several years of a liberal Government. Like other countries, rent is expensive and certain jobs are unfairly underpaid. Same trailer different park as they say. The portobello mushroom burger from Casa Guedes, in Porto. Photo / Sarah Pollok It's at this point that we make a mistake many do on a food tour; filling up at the second-to-last stop. Thankful for my choice of dress rather than buttoned pants (a crucial food tour outfit choice), we slowly stroll for 10 minutes, towards Praça dos Poveiros, an area known for restaurants that serve quality meals for working-class folk. One of the more popular among locals is Casa Guedes. Once a humble tavern, its pork shoulder and Serra cheese sandwich was so popular amongst students and workers that its set up four more locations, but Carlotta believes the original is the best. 'I bring groups here, but I also come here myself,' she says. At 1pm, the shaded outdoor tables beside a lush public park are full, so we opt for air conditioning inside. Most of us order the specialty, washed down with a cold rosé, and I try the portobello mushroom option with a brioche bun and sautéed vegetables. True to form, the €5.50 sandwich is simple but delicious. A plate of chips arrives, which Carlotta describes as a restaurant's litmus test. 'You know it's a good place if they hand-make their chips', she reveals. Details For more information on Intrepid Travel's 8-day 'Portugal Real Food Adventure, featuring Galicia', visit New Zealand Herald travelled courtesy of Intrepid Travel.

Hot travel deals: Stays for NZFW, European culture, Pacific islands, Disney thrills and Antarctic exploration
Hot travel deals: Stays for NZFW, European culture, Pacific islands, Disney thrills and Antarctic exploration

NZ Herald

time2 days ago

  • NZ Herald

Hot travel deals: Stays for NZFW, European culture, Pacific islands, Disney thrills and Antarctic exploration

Luxury meets the farming life Covering ten cities across four countries, this 15-day Specialist European Agri-Tour blends agriculture, luxury and culture. Enjoy five nights in four-star hotels in Amsterdam, Basel and Zurich, and cruise in style for seven nights onboard AmaWaterways' AmaViola. The itinerary includes guided tours in Amsterdam, a visit to the John Deere Tractor Factory, a Swiss dairy and brewery tour, and stops in Strasbourg, Rüdesheim and the Rhine Gorge. Priced from $18,699 pp twin share, this tour includes return Economy Class flights from Auckland, all transfers, the services of a New Zealand-based escort and more. Departs May 5, 2026. Book by July 31, 2025 at Visit Amsterdam on this 15-day Europe tour. Photo / Unsplash Cruise the Pacific in style Hop aboard the Discovery Princess and enjoy 25 days of pure luxury as you travel the Pacific Ocean. Setting sail from Auckland, enjoy a stop on familiar shores with a call in to the Bay of Islands before crossing the international date line. Port in Tahiti and Moorea, French Polynesia, where shore excursions include snorkelling in the crystal-clear ocean and four-wheel driving tours! Sail into American waters with stops in Hawaii and Los Angeles, where the sun shines and stars walk the streets. End your cruise in two of the most beautiful cities in the world – Victoria and Vancouver, Canada. Priced from $4179 per person, share twin for a Princess Standard fare, which includes standard dining, accommodation and entertainment. Flights are additional. Cruise departs Auckland, New Zealand, on Sunday, April 12, 2026. Prices are correct at the date and time supplied to the media outlet and are subject to change. Visit or call 0800 780 717. Spend 25 days travelling from Auckland to Canada aboard the Discovery Princess. Photo / Discovery Princess From Disney fun to harbour views Combine culture, luxury, and Disney magic on this five-night Hong Kong escape. Enjoy three nights at the 1920s expedition-themed Disney Explorers Lodge, featuring four globally inspired wings, immersive decor, three restaurants, and a fun-filled Rain Drop Pool. Plus, get into the spirit of 'The Most Magical Party of All' as Hong Kong Disneyland celebrates its 20th anniversary with an upgraded castle show, new night-time spectacular and the biggest parade yet. Then, relax for two nights at the five-star Harbour Grand Kowloon, a deluxe waterfront hotel with harbour views, rooftop pool and easy city access. From $3425 pp twin share, the package includes return Economy Class airfares with Air New Zealand from Auckland, five nights' accommodation, daily breakfast, and a two-day Non Stop Fun Ticket (Tier 4) to Hong Kong Disneyland. This also includes a bonus one-night stay at Disney Explorers Lodge with a stay three, pay two offer. Valid for travel from October 13 to November 19, 2025. Book by August 10, 2025, at Experience the magic of Hong Kong Disneyland and the culture of Kowloon city in one stay. Photo / Supplied Explore Earth's last frontier Discover the 'last continent' with Viking's 13-day Antarctic Explorer voyage from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia. Experience towering glaciers, sweeping icebergs, snow-covered wilderness and unforgettable wildlife encounters on the world's last true frontier. This ultimate adventure is built around flexibility, allowing daily itinerary changes to ensure the best wildlife viewings in one of the planet's most remote destinations. Travel aboard a purpose-built expedition ship equipped with zodiacs, kayaks and even submarines to get you closer to the action. This package is priced from $19,495 pp in a Nordic Balcony Stateroom. Travellers can save $3000 per couple when booking one or more extensions, including the four-night Iguazú Falls tour or the five-night Gateway to Patagonia journey, both from $7499 pp. Bookings are available now via Viking. For more information, visit or contact your preferred travel agent.

Exploring Egypt: Nile cruise offers comfort and culture for solo travellers
Exploring Egypt: Nile cruise offers comfort and culture for solo travellers

NZ Herald

time14-07-2025

  • NZ Herald

Exploring Egypt: Nile cruise offers comfort and culture for solo travellers

Today, the Nile continues to be a revered life force for more than 100 million Egyptians, their way of life immersed deeply in its storied waters. Children splash about while cows bask in its refreshing embrace, with towering palm groves acting as the gateway to lush farmland, humble villages and a way of life untouched by modernity. Locals cast their nets for fish from their wooden boats, a sight I encounter from the ship – but that's not the only boat on the water with us. As I'm sitting in my suite – a spacious and modern retreat complete with balcony – I hear 'hello, hello, hello'. I look down and two young Egyptians have tied their boat to ours, gliding with us on the Nile's glistening waters. These cheeky boys have made this a habit to sell local items like pashminas – one of which was thrown up to me on my balcony. Egyptians can be persistent when selling their wares in tourist areas. This is why travelling on tour in Egypt helps – local guides know how to navigate the situation. Speaking Arabic works, but it's their presence that does the talking. The vendors soften their approach when they notice a local because they know the guide will protect the group from unwanted sales tactics. In saying that, Egyptians are some of the friendliest people, many of whom are so grateful for business, so carrying Egyptian pounds does a world of good – as does fresh meat for the cats and dogs at ancient sites. (I can't help but bring fresh sausages and chicken from the breakfast and lunch buffet with me each day). There are 27 of us on the AmaWaterways tour, each coming from locations all around the world. Eleven nights together encourage new friendships, one of my favourite things about travelling as a group. You can't help but get to know your fellow passengers, and that's a luxury when travelling solo. I find myself dining with a husband and wife and their two daughters several times, bonding over the shared love of refraining from placing suitcases on the bed. Sure, sometimes it's nice to have your own space, but this cruise has a way of allowing for that, too. After three days staying at the St Regis Hotel on land exploring all the ancient sites in Cairo, from Saqqara to the Pyramids of Giza to the brand new Grand Egyptian Museum, Coptic Cairo (where Mother Mary and baby Jesus found refuge and baby Moses was found in a papyrus basket by the pharoah's daughter) and Mohammad Ali Mosque, we're off to board the ship, which awaits in Luxor, a one-hour flight from Cairo. Mohammad Ali Mosque Cairo. Photo / Lauren Thomas The morning of our first day, the sunrise over the Nile's east bank reveals striking crimson hues with hot air balloons dotted across the sky – a sight that sets the tone for the magic that awaits. It's no accident that the ancient Egyptians built the Karnak and Luxor temples here; it symbolises the 'land of the living'. On the west bank, however, where the sun sets, you'll find the realm of the dead – a place of transition to the afterlife for the pharaohs. This is where the Valley of the Kings – home to Tutankhamun's mummified corpse and the Temple of Hatshepsut, Egypt's most powerful female pharaoh – can be found. Tutankhamun's Mummy within the Valley of the Kings. Photo / Lauren Thomas It's no secret that ancient Egypt holds a tapestry of hidden stories, many of which come to life through the insight of an Egyptologist – an expert in the study of history, language, religion, literature and art, including the translation of hieroglyphics. These are found inside tombs and temples – a mystical door unveiling ancient worship, rituals, beliefs and offerings held sacred by the ancient Egyptians. The Hatshepsut Temple is in Luxor. Photo / Lauren Thomas This is an inclusion on the tour that proved to be invaluable. I liken it to school, when everyone gets on the bus that takes you to all the best places while listening to the teacher, except this time, you want to be there. As I walk through Karnak Temple in Luxor, the group encounters a black scarab statue celebrated for its luck. The modern tradition is to walk around the statue seven times while making a wish – particularly for marriage, love, and fertility. This is something I wouldn't have known if my guide hadn't pointed it out. Temple of Edfu between Luxor and Aswan (dedicated to Horus). Photo / Lauren Thomas It's tales like this that reveal Egypt as a fascinating destination with many ancient and cultural layers. It's a wondrous place where organised chaos meets serenity and peace – a living paradox – breathtaking and confronting all in one. After a day of exploring the ancient sights, the heat begins to take a toll, which makes returning to AmaLila a welcome relief, particularly with its onboard refreshments and cold towels on arrival. Less than one year old, the vessel is modern and fresh with an upper deck worth mentioning: crisp, white sun loungers submerged in the pool with sand-fringed umbrellas bring the resort feel as you watch the world go by. And that it does, when you're in a cooking class learning how to make Egyptian doughnuts or 'zalabya', one of the many activities on board. If I'm not eating, I'm drinking, but not the alcoholic kind (although there are some fabulous cocktails, spirits and wine on board). My favourite is the fresh watermelon juice, off menu, made courtesy of my bartender, Ahmed. A camel waits patiently at the Pyramids of Giza complex. Photo / Lauren Thomas As night falls, the entertainment on board begins, each evening something a little different – like the belly dancer who sways to the rhythm of the riqq, a classical Egyptian tambourine. Then it's time for dinner, with a la carte three-course selections changing daily – a nice touch that curbs culinary boredom. There's also the 'Chef's Table', an optional experience on board for guests who want something a little special. On the other hand, breakfast and lunch offer a buffet-style feast with an abundant, ever-changing selection of fresh ingredients daily from the land, earth and sea. A mosaic in the historic Coptic Cairo area represents Mary, Joseph and the baby Jesus on their flight from Herod into Egypt. Photo / Lauren Thomas Another true standout alongside the local on-board dining experiences is the team and their ability to make you feel safe. From the cruise manager and Egyptologist to the friendly bus driver and security guard, each of them allows you to immerse yourself in the country's ancient wonders, minus the stress of navigating language barriers, different customs and cultures. Whether it's organising your entry visa or simply keeping an eye out for you in crowded places, they have a knack for taking care of your every need, and as a result, it offers reassurance for solo female travellers exploring this exciting destination. The journalist was a guest on the Secrets of the Nile travel tour courtesy of AmaWaterways.

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