Chorney-Booth: L'Olivo Cicchetti and Lounge takes a big swing by going small
Traditional cicchetti is typically enjoyed by visiting several different establishments — just picture the romanticism of dashing to several bars along a street with wine and salty snacks waiting at each — but since L'Olivo stands pretty much alone in Calgary's cicchetti scene, Di Gennaro created a menu to be enjoyed by guests looking for a quick series of snacks or those looking to build a full dinner. There is a section of actual cicchetti, all similar to what you'd get during an aperitivo hour in Italy, with items like seafood croquettes with lime-nduja aioli ($14), seared mortadella pockets with provolone cheese and pistachios ($12), and crostini topped with smoked chicken and apple-pecan pesto ($12).
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The rest of the menu doesn't fall into that cicchetti category but keeps to the spirit of small plates as far as portion size goes. The pastas are restricted to 90-gram servings to allow for more flavours to hit each table with options like a prawn tagliolini in a crustacean bisque ($18) and pulled duck ziti with white wine and fresh sage ($18). The mains are similarly mini at 85 grams of protein each, including a little veal tenderloin tonnato ($23), bite-sized lamb chop with garlic aioli ($22), and peppered smoked duck breast in a Marsala reduction ($23). Even though they're small, these dishes all pack heavy-duty flavour and premium ingredients, making a bite or two when shared among several people enough to satisfy everyone's palate.
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Don't skip the bread basket ($8), filled with bread imported from Italy, or dessert, which can come in the form of a cheese plate ($10), cannoli ($7), or an absolutely delightful spiced cocoa affogato. The cocktails — many innovative spins on bitter Italian classics — are also on point, with lower-alcohol and non-alcoholic options available.
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L'Olivo is located at 1023 9th Ave. S.E. and is also accessible through Lina's Italian Piazza. The restaurant is open Tuesday through Sunday from 5 p.m. onward and can be reached at 403-960-1006 or through lolivo.ca.
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In other food news, Village Ice Cream's dog-friendly ice cream has returned for the season. Village held a contest to come up with the flavour and, after over 1,500 entries, they settled on a dog-safe formulation called Freddie's Cheesy Cracker for pups who love cheesy snacks. The pint cups also feature illustrations of over 40 local ice-cream-loving dogs.
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A dollar from every pint or scoop sold goes to the Canadian Animal Task Force's spay-neuter clinics in First Nations communities. The dog ice cream is available at all Village Ice Cream locations through to September long weekend, provided supplies last. For more information, visit villageicecream.com.
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