'Nail Greenies' Are The BIAB Side Effect No One Warned Me About

Refinery29

3 days ago

I love to keep my nails looking pristine. For the past few years, I've been obsessed with gel manicures, often choosing a sparkly pink or a standout blue to complement my signature navy mascara. But I discovered that gel chipped easily, and after a removal appointment left my natural nails sore and damaged, I made a vow to restore them to health.
One nail treatment that had helped me in the past was BIAB, aka Builder In A Bottle, and with my trip to New York for my 30th birthday in March, it felt like the perfect occasion to book in. Fast forward to July, and I asked my nail tech about a fresh set of BIAB for my upcoming holiday. She assured me that my nails were fine for one more infill — having the gap between your cuticle and the builder gel filled in. Imagine my surprise, then, while at Disneyland Paris — supposedly the happiest place on Earth — when I noticed my BIAB lifting on one thumb, revealing a patch of swamp-green discolouration. Not exactly on-brand.
Fortunately, my mind didn't jump to the idea that I was turning into an alien. Instead, I realised that my nail had started lifting, and I suspected I was dealing with ' nail greenies '.
What exactly is nail greenies or Pseudomonas?
Dr Alexis Granite, a consultant dermatologist and founder of skincare brand Joonbyrd, explains that nail greenies are professionally known as Pseudomonas aeruginosa: 'This is an infection of a nail, which is caused by the Pseudomonas aeruginosa bacteria,' she tells me. It's called 'greenies' because it often appears blue-green, dark green or sometimes even a black colour, says Dr Granite. Several things can cause nail greenies, says Dr Granite. One common reason? 'Some kind of nail trauma, commonly the nail separating from the nail bed due to acrylic nails or other types of nail extensions,' she explains.
Dr Granite notes that greenies is also common in people who have prolonged exposure to moisture, whether from excessive hand washing or working in damp conditions: 'Pre-existing nail conditions, a weakened immune system and poor nail hygiene can also contribute to the bacterial infection,' she says. In my case, the infection was due to my BIAB lifting and moisture becoming trapped underneath.
Celebrity manicurist Michelle Humphrey adds that nail greenies is often mistaken for a fungus: 'Nail fungus is not typically green and has different attributes such as thickened, yellowish, brittle nail plates,' she says. Much like fungus, though, nail greenies can multiply and spread. Dr Granite says that if left untreated, you might notice a handful of symptoms: 'You can experience green and yellowish discharge, a swollen nail and tenderness, pain and discomfort, and over time, an infection in the skin,' not just the nailbed.
How do you get rid of nail greenies? And is it safe to keep getting BIAB?
If you suspect you have nail greenies, celebrity manicurist Roxanne Campbell says it's important to keep the affected nails dry and free from products to allow them to 'air out' and eventually grow out naturally. This means gently removing any BIAB or other nail enhancements like soft and hard gels or acrylic. Keeping nails as bare as possible is key, confirms Humphrey, who explains that oxygen helps to kill the bacteria. In most cases, using 'breathable' nail polishes, which are water-permeable, is fine.
The time it takes for green discolouration to grow out on nails depends on where it's located. If it is situated lower down on the nail, it will likely take longer to grow out. In my case, the green discolouration affected two fingers and one thumb. Since it wasn't too low down, my nail has already grown out most of the green hue, leaving just a small patch behind. It's been just under a month since I had my BIAB removed, so my nails are growing out quickly.
If you've kept your nails bare, clean and dry, but the greenies persist, Dr Granite suggests contacting your GP for a nail treatment. 'If there's any question that [the nail is] not responding, topical antibiotic creams, and in more severe cases, an oral antibiotic might be recommended,' she says. The latter can only be prescribed by a medical professional, so if you're concerned, it's always best to seek expert advice on the next steps.
@aliciacadotte This is why you DONT wait 5 weeks for a nail fill and glue your lifted nails back down! Greenies (as seen on the thumb), are caused by moisture getting trapped under the artificial nail. Cracks (seen on middle finger) can also be a huge cause for greenies or nail damage on the enhancement and natural nail. Gluing down your nails in a pinch is okay once in a while but please for the sake of your well being, get your nails filled in a timely manner, and always have your nail tech fix your nails. #nailart #nails #nailtech ♬ original sound - aliciacadotte
How do you prevent nail greenies?
While the cause of nail greenies isn't always obvious, Humphrey says that red flags to look out for include lifting, any discolouration and pressure on the nail plate once the nail enhancement has grown out. 'If your nails start to look bulky or uneven, it could be time to take a break and refresh the nail set properly,' says Humphrey. Adding, 'Numerous infills without assessing the nail underneath can also be a cause for greenies, especially if you are wearing a coloured builder gel, as this disguises the nail plate.'
Humphrey believes that proper prep can make all the difference: 'Your nail pro should be doing thorough cuticle work, removing surface oils and applying a clean, even base [before BIAB or gel],' she says. 'Over-buffing the natural nail should be avoided and there should be zero dust or oil on the nail before application.'
During your manicure, also avoid things like rummaging in your bag, touching your phone, your face, your hair or eating, says Humphrey. 'All of these things can transfer oils, dirt, fluff and bacteria onto your nails after they've been prepped,' she says. 'So when your nail tech pleads with you to sit still, it's not just for vibes — it's for the longevity of your manicure.'
Campbell says that once the infection has cleared and the nail plate looks clean and healthy, you can apply BIAB or other nail enhancements again. Humphrey also recommends choosing a properly qualified nail technician: 'Make sure the [nail station] is fully sanitised and that tools and implements are changed regularly,' she says. 'Nail files [should be thrown away] after use to avoid cross-contamination.'
If you're having BIAB or gel removed, check that your nails look healthy before reapplication: 'When in doubt, keep your nails bare and wait a little longer,' says Humphrey. A good nail technician should always let you know when your nails need a break from gel or BIAB.
How can you strengthen nails after greenies?
If your nails are looking and feeling neglected, there's still time to revive them. Gaelle Lebrat Personnaz, founder and CEO of Manucurist, a nail brand that focuses on nail care and natural nail health, says that once the green discolouration has completely cleared and the nail is healthy again, you can start rebuilding its strength. 'After treating a greenie, nails are often left dry, brittle or weakened,' she says. Lebrat Personnaz recommends the brand's Nail Rescue Kit, £45, a perfect post-recovery routine. 'It includes the Huile Verte Cuticle Oil for deep daily nourishment, S.O.S Nail Strengthener to rebuild strength and resilience, and our S.O.S Nail Masque, an intensive treatment mask that deeply hydrates and repairs damaged nails.'
Humphrey also recommends one of my go-to cuticle oils, Essie On a Roll Apricot Nail & Cuticle Oil, £14.99, which is deeply nourishing, great for on-the-go use and smells amazing. Besides topical treatments, Campbell suggests a diet rich in protein, biotin, zinc and omega-3 fatty acids to support healthier nails.
Lastly, if the green discolouration hasn't grown out after a few weeks, or if you notice different side effects, it's always best to reach out to a medical professional for further advice.