How to skip the tourist traps at the Venice Biennale: where to stay and what to eat, drink and see – from cicchetti and natural wines to the ‘Intelligens. Natural. Artificial. Collective' exhibition

South China Morning Post

2 days ago

As one of the most popular
tourist destinations in the world, Venice is, unsurprisingly, also one of the most polarising. Known in equal measure for its gorgeous, winding canals as for its expensive gondola rides, this is a city whose most compelling secrets are revealed only to those who actually take the time to research what's going on beneath its touristy surface.
Tourists sail on a gondola along a canal in Venice. Photo: AFP
Luckily, Venice also benefits from
a vibrant arts and culture scene – one that's among the best in the world by modern standards. Historically, the city played a hugely influential role during the Italian Renaissance period and many relics of this legacy – from outstanding architecture to Murano glassware and Venetian paintings – still stand as major tourist draws today. And in 1895, the city played host to the very first
Venice Biennale, now the oldest cultural exhibition of its kind in the world.
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People visit the main exhibition, titled 'Intelligens. Natural. Artificial. Collective.' and curated by Italian architect-engineer Carlo Ratti, at the Corderie dell'Arsenale, on May 7. Photo: EPA-EFE
The 19th edition of the Venice Biennale of Architecture – which opened on May 10 – runs until November 23 of this year. It's a prime moment for visitors seeking an alternative view of the city, focusing on its best arts and culture and eschewing the busy crowds of St Mark's Basilica and the Rialto Bridge. We're here to help you sift through what's really worth seeing, eating and drinking in this cultural capital of truly discreet – if not quite hidden – gems.
Stay at Ca' di Dio
Ca' di Dio is a charming, characterful hotel with views of the Venetian Lagoon. Photo: @cadidio_/Instagram
An unassuming hotel occupying prime real estate just a 10-minute walk from St Mark's Square, Ca' di Dio boasts some of the best views on this side of the Venetian Lagoon from a discreet location along the popular Riva degli Schiavoni promenade. Don't be fooled by its relatively demure exteriors, however. This humble haven has plenty of character dating back to the 13th century. Spanish architect Patricia Urquiola brought much of this historic charm to life upon renovation, converting the former chapel into an impressive lobby that's equal parts expansive and intimate, with high ceilings, a healthy dose of natural light, and carefully curated artworks and coffee table books. The central courtyard provides much-needed respite from the heat of summer.
This is an art lovers' hotel through and through, and the rooms feel somewhat like an art deco bohemian's paradise, contrary to the more stately and classical feel afforded by much of Venice's architecture. Red marble countertops in the bathroom and Murano lamps with a retro feel give the suites a truly lived-in atmosphere that you won't find at many of the city's more extravagant hotels. Accessible via private water taxi or the Arsenale ferry station, the hotel is the perfect home base from which to explore the Biennale, centrally located between its two most prominent venues, the Arsenale and the Giardini.
Savour some cicchetti at Nevodi