The rise of size-fluid clothing (and it's not just for pregnant women)

Telegraph

15-03-2025

You're attempting to button yourself into your favourite pair of trousers, but it's just not happening. We've all been there. Next time this happens though, consider this: it is estimated that the average woman changes dress size 31 times in her adult life. That equates to roughly once every two years, so is it any wonder there are times when our wardrobes don't fit us the way we want them to?
Enter size-fluid clothing – a phrase I've made up but one that perfectly describes the appetite for women's fashion that grows and shrinks with you. For many women, the gateway to embracing this type of clothing is pregnancy, but since my husband and I were unable to have children, I came via a different route.
Working from home during lockdown, I'd not only become accustomed to the comfort of tracksuit bottoms, I'd also put on weight. This was in part down to my discovery of the website, FrenchClick, from which I was able to order my favourite crisps in bulk in lieu of an actual holiday in France.
As we emerged from the pandemic and I started a new job working in an office, those trackie bottoms just didn't cut it and my old smart trousers were too small, so I invested in a pair of trousers from a brand called Roake Studio. Their clever wrap design was the result of Roake Studio's founder Rosie Drake-Amery's desire to find stylish maternity wear that could be worn afterwards.
I was a size 14 at the time, and in the three years that have followed, I've been anything between that and a size 10. Hence, I've worn these trousers at least once a week for that entire period.
Shortly afterwards, I discovered the maternity brand Beyond Nine, thanks to a bright gingham jumpsuit that caught my eye at a pre-loved clothing sale. Its website boasts a plethora of balloon-shaped trousers, elastic waists and roomy jumpsuits.
Loved by the influencer set, Beyond Nine also began as a maternity-and-beyond brand (as the name suggests), but its demographic is actually more than 75 per cent non-pregnant women.
Its founder, Naomi Raybould, launched the brand the day before she had her second baby. 'I got pregnant with my first and realised I couldn't wear what I wanted,' she tells me. 'I had my baby and forgot about it, and then I got pregnant with my second and I wondered why no one was catering to this market.
'Maternity wear at the time was all polyester ruched bodycon dresses,' she continues. 'My mum lent me some jumpsuits that she wore in the 1980s when she was pregnant, and that's what sparked the idea.'
On a mission to design something versatile and stylish, Raybould launched with two jumpsuits that catered for bumps, breastfeeding and C-sections, while still looking cool enough to wear well beyond (or in lieu of) that particular life stage. Dresses, tops and matching trousers followed, including the best-selling Mabel trousers; I have two pairs which have also seen me comfortably through three different dress sizes.
'We're very specific about the elastic,' explains Raybould. 'My experience was often that it was a very rigid, hard elastic that would give me a stomach ache. We spent a long time trying to find an elastic that works with you as your body fluctuates. Our customers say they make them feel amazing.'
Hannah wears adjustable waist wide leg jeans jeans, £245, The Female Archetypes; silk t-shirt, £145, by Lora Gene; 'Kutsu' leather shoes, £190, by Beaumont Organic
Of course, women's bodies go through changes at various stages of life. The Female Archetypes brand aims to address this with its four key items that can be adapted to fit sizes 8-18; moreover, with designs that include features such as underarm vents to provide ventilation during menopausal hot flushes. 'Why don't we just produce a few really great pieces that are sizeless and then keep them for a long time?' asks founder Alice Holland-Lu.
The brand's smart Japanese indigo jeans that I am wearing above are created using an environmentally-friendly 'bio-wash' which results in a super-soft finish.
Poppers that click into place and cinching buckles adjust the jeans securely to the correct size. I'm wearing size 1 here, which caters for sizes 8-12, while size 2 works for 14-18. 'I don't know what my body is going to do, not even on any given day but any time of day,' admits Holland-Lu as she demonstrates how to easily adjust them.
A classic white shirt, navy blazer and olive trench coat complete the offering. All high-quality timeless classics, made as sustainably as possible. There are bonus features, too: the trench has dropped underarms with eyelets, as well as a mesh panel concealed under the back storm flap to allow for breathability on a busy commute. Each also comes with three sizes of side seam inserts that can be added and removed using poppers to suit the style or fit you'd like.
Cotton trench, £695, The Female Archetypes
'I think I need to invest in a popper factory!' says Holland-Lu, as she waxes lyrical about using them for their ease and accessibility. 'I have a friend that had a stroke at 31, and my mum also had a stroke. One of my models is going through treatment for ovarian cancer and she said that you lose feeling in the bottom of your fingers. When you're in a situation where your mobility is compromised, if you can dress yourself, it's a huge deal for your self-esteem.'
More subtle adaptability is ever-popular at Toast, as demonstrated by its Edo stripe wrap skirt and linen cotton tie shirt, both with adjustable off-centre fastens. The ribbon print dress that I am wearing here isn't the only one available that can be tied multiple ways.
Hannah wears the viscose ribbon print dress, £195, Toast; 'Ida' leather fisherman sandals, £195, Mafalda
'An adaptable garment means you get the most out of an item – whether that's catering to a changing body or simply playing with the silhouette of an outfit,' says the brand's creative director, Laura Shippey. 'Our collections are designed for longevity and ease of wear is essential. This can take many forms from elasticated waists, drawstrings, tabs and relaxed silhouettes. Many of our foundational styles with adjustability have become core pieces that our community comes back to year after year.
When it comes to consuming less, fluid sizing makes brilliant sense, but it's about more than just the environment and economics. 'I think as women we have to deal with so much that I just want to be comfortable,' agrees Holland-Lu. 'I don't want to feel like my clothes aren't supporting me.'
Hannah wears the 'Ottie' denim jumpsuit in dark blue, £129, Beyond Nine; 'Audrey' organic cotton t-shirt, £59, Ivy; 'Mabel' wool socks in denim, £23, Rock + Ruby; Weejuns Mary Janes in wine, £175, GH Bass