Can you get your glow back with collagen?

Irish Examiner

4 days ago

Hailed as an elixir of youth, collagen has got TikTok influencers enthusing about how it reduces wrinkles and firms up sagging skin. On Instagram, there are more than 13m hashtags linked to posts claiming that collagen drinks, peptides, and powders help with everything from painful muscles to aching joints.
Celebrities, including Jennifer Aniston and Kate Hudson, have publicly said that collagen supplements have helped keep their skin looking youthful and smooth. And Bryan Johnson, the tech entrepreneur who is devoting a significant amount of his time and $400m fortune to trying to prolong his life, takes 25g of collagen peptides every day as part of that quest.
Prof Caitríona Ryan, a consultant dermatologist and a clinical professor at University College Dublin, explains that collagen is 'the most abundant protein in the human body and the primary structural protein in the skin, providing strength, support, and elasticity.'
Caitríona Ryan, a consultant dermatologist and a clinical professor at University College Dublin, explains that collagen is 'the most abundant protein in the human body and the primary structural protein in the skin, providing strength, support, and elasticity.'
Scientists have identified 28 different types of collagen. Ryan is most interested in type 1 because it accounts for over 80% of the collagen found in adult skin and is key to maintaining its firmness, resilience, and youthful appearance.
The problem is that natural collagen production slows with age.
'It declines by approximately 1% per year from our mid-20s, leading to a gradual loss of skin elasticity and thinning of the dermis,' says Ryan. 'This decline contributes to the formation of fine lines, wrinkles, and visible sagging.'
Women are especially hit hard during their perimenopausal years when oestrogen levels begin to fall, accelerating the decline in collagen production.
Ryan cites research https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3772914/that shows how women lose approximately 30% of their skin's collagen content in the first five years after menopause, followed by a further 2% per year thereafter.
'This sudden drop in dermal collagen is one of the key reasons why many women notice visible skin laxity, wrinkling, and jowling emerging around this stage of life,' she says. 'Collagen loss plays such a visible role in the ageing process.'
Collagen supplements claim to compensate for this loss, and as a result, have become a big business. According to the research and consulting firm Future Market Insights, the global collagen market size was valued at $1.655bn in 2024 and is expected to reach $3.089bn by 2034.
No such thing as a magic pill
A Google search shows numerous options for those who want to experience the benefits of collagen in Ireland. These range from liquid supplements made from freshwater fish, costing €69.98 for a monthly supply, to strawberry-flavoured collagen gummies that cost €29 for a container of 60, and bovine collagen tablets priced at €10.99 for a pack of 30.
The collagen in the plethora of products now available typically comes from cows, chicken, pigs, or fish and has been hydrolysed so that it's broken down into more easily absorbed molecules called peptides.
Ryan believes this form of collagen can play a role in improving the appearance of the skin.
'Oral collagen peptides, when taken in hydrolysed form, are absorbed into the bloodstream and have been shown to stimulate fibroblast activity in the dermis,' she says. 'This encourages the skin to produce more of its own collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid, all of which are essential for maintaining volume, firmness, and hydration.'
Studies into the effects of collagen supplementation on skin health have been limited in scale to date, but the results so far suggest supplements are effective. For example, a study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology in 2019 showed a significant reduction in facial wrinkles and improvements in skin elasticity in 805 people taking collagen peptides.
However, a collagen supplement will never be enough by itself. Ryan says maintaining healthy and youthful skin takes more than popping a pill.
'There is strong clinical evidence to support the use of hydrolysed collagen peptides to help restore the structural and mechanical integrity of the skin,' she says. 'However, the most important steps we can take are daily sun protection, a scientifically formulated topical skincare regimen, and a healthy lifestyle that includes a nutrient-rich diet, adequate sleep and avoidance of smoking. These are the foundations of long-term skin health and remain essential at every stage of life.'
Dietitian and founder of the Dublin Nutrition Centre Aveen Bannon says the collagen we consume in the form of supplements, powders, and drinks may be converted into another form of protein in the body once it's digested.
The body's building blocks
There is no guarantee that the body will utilise collagen it ingests through supplements to improve the skin.
Dietitian and founder of the Dublin Nutrition Centre Aveen Bannon says the collagen we consume in the form of supplements, powders, and drinks may be converted into another form of protein in the body once it's digested.
'Our bodies make collagen from amino acids along with vitamins and minerals such as vitamin C, zinc, and copper,' she says.
'We can also consume collagen either from food or supplements. But when we do, the body breaks it down into building blocks called amino acids, which don't automatically become collagen to be used in the skin. The body determines how to utilise these building blocks; sometimes for collagen, sometimes for other proteins that it requires at that time.'
A far safer bet for anyone aiming to enhance their skin's appearance would be to focus on improving their diet. 'Eat enough protein,' says Bannon. 'This means lean meat, fish, dairy, beans, nuts, tofu, and tempeh. Eat plenty of vitamin C-rich foods too. You'll find it in fruits and vegetables. Don't forget zinc and copper, which are to be found in nuts, seeds, and seafood. Make sure you eat oily fish, flaxseeds, and walnuts for their healthy omega-3 fats. And drink enough water.'
She also recommends staying active, as exercise plays a role in maintaining healthy skin, and limiting alcohol consumption.
Fergal J O'Brien is a professor of bioengineering and regenerative medicine at the Royal College of Surgeons in Ireland and the head of a tissue engineering research group that develops implants to help repair damaged or diseased tissues.
Collagen isn't simply a skincare ingredient. He says that there may be evidence showing that type 1 collagen can reverse some of the impact of ageing on the skin, but there is far more scientific evidence demonstrating the importance of type 2 and other types of collagen in other parts of the body.
'Collagen makes up the building blocks and the scaffolding of the body in many ways,' says O'Brien. 'And as a result, it's found in all of its tissues and organs. For example, it gives bones their tensile strength, which is what allows them to stretch or flex without breaking. Without collagen, they would be really brittle.'
His research group engineers collagen so that it can be used to repair bone, cartilage, nerves and skin.
'Say, you've got a wound that won't heal that's caused by a cut, a burn, or a chronic condition like diabetes,' he says. 'A skin graft is painful and people only have so much skin available. We turn collagen, which we take from cattle, into a sponge-like material that we lay as a bandage over the wound. Because collagen is natural, it will degrade into the body over time but as it does, it will function as an environment for cells to attach to and grow and lay down new tissue.'
Much more to learn
Hongyun Tai works with a research team at University College Dublin that is investigating how collagen can be used in medicine. She is also the managing director of Blafar, a Dublin-based biotech company specialising in the development of medical-grade collagen products.
'While collagen is widely marketed for its skincare benefits, it has far broader physiological significance,' she says.
'It supports joint function and cushions cartilage. It contributes to the strength and flexibility of tendons and ligaments. It assists in muscle regeneration and repair and it plays a role in wound healing and repair. These are the reasons why collagen supplements and collagen-stimulating therapies are being investigated for potential benefits in managing joint paint, improving recovery from sports injuries and even aiding in post-surgical tissue regeneration.'
There is significant international interest in exploring whether collagen can help athletes recover from injury or even improve athletic performance. Scientists are also investigating whether supplementing with the protein could reduce joint stiffness and the function of muscles and tendons in the elderly, making them less vulnerable to falls and resulting injuries.
The research findings to date are promising. A 2021 British review examined studies in recreational athletes and the elderly, and found evidence that collagen is beneficial in improving joint functionality and reducing joint pain.
An Australian study published in 2016 found that collagen supplements reduced the pain associated with osteoarthritis, the most common joint disease affecting the elderly worldwide.
Bannon, who takes collagen herself because she believes it improves her skin, says there is still a lot to learn about the protein.
'My advice would always be to focus on food and lifestyle first,' she says. 'But collagen supplements are generally safe and may be of benefit to people's skin and joints, although the effects are typically mild and may take time to be noticeable. If someone chooses to try them, I suggest they pick a good quality, trusted brand, take them for four to six weeks and see if they notice any difference.'
Who's who in the world of collagen products?
Cork-based GP and women's health specialist Dr Doireann O'Leary has developed Supplements Made Simple.
From doctors to Hollywood actresses and influencers, people from many walks of life are developing health and beauty products based on this potent protein.
Cork-based GP and women's health specialist Dr Doireann O'Leary has developed Supplements Made Simple. This range includes a product combining marine collagen with vitamin C, which claims to help reduce fine lines and wrinkles while increasing skin elasticity.
Herology is the women's supplements brand created by Dr Michelle Hone, who got her PhD in nutrition from Dublin City University and went on to found The Fit Clinic, and Dr Sarah Kelly, a clinical exercise physiologist and former assistant professor in health and human performance at DCU. They have created a tailored collagen supplement for skin, hair, and nails. It contains vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, and marine collagen.
Jennifer Aniston claims to have been adding collagen powder from a company called Vital Proteins to her morning coffee since 2016. She was so taken with its effects that she became an ambassador for the brand and its lead creative in 2020.
Just this year, Ireland's own Vogue Williams became another of these brand's ambassadors and has since posted on her social media platforms about how adding a few scoops to her morning coffee helps her feel and look her best.
Limerick-based movement coach Leonie Lynch was an early adopter. When she was pregnant with her second child in 2016, she began developing a collagen and cacao protein blend to nourish her body. It's now widely sold as the Juspy Superfood blend and is designed to be used in shakes, coffees, overnight oats or even hot chocolate.