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Ten things I learnt on my first visit to India
Ten things I learnt on my first visit to India

Sydney Morning Herald

timea day ago

  • Sydney Morning Herald

Ten things I learnt on my first visit to India

I'm anxious about my first visit to India. Faced with its vast scale, history and humanity, its crowds, poverty and colour, I'm determined to channel Judi Dench's intrepid, open-hearted character from Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, Evelyn Greenslade. I fear, however, that I will quickly turn into Penelope Wilton's uptight and unadventurous Jean Ainslie, who soon flees back to her less challenging English homeland. My apprehension increases when I hear that even Traveller's resident Tripologist and Indophile, Michael Gebicki, has succumbed to illness while there, despite more than 20 visits. What hope is there for a first-timer like me? The journalist visa process is a frustrating jumble of red tape and clunky websites, and my first (domestic) flight is booked in the wrong direction. It feels like the universe is warning me not to risk it. I'm travelling with a small group on a brief yet unquestionably luxurious journey to Rajasthan with Abercrombie & Kent. The flight from Melbourne to Delhi is jam-packed with members of Australia's Indian diaspora, regarded as the nation's most successful. There are crying babies, pungent wafts of curry and a handful of passengers ignoring (or not understanding) the attendants' instructions to remain seated after landing, resulting in frustrated yelling from said attendants. It seems like another sign of the chaos that's undoubtedly to come. As we land at Indira Gandhi airport, I help a family laden down with bags and toddler paraphernalia until they get to passport control, where we part ways. But later, as I emerge with my own luggage into the arrivals hall, their young daughter spots me in the crowd, runs over and gives me the biggest hug – and suddenly I begin to understand the warmth of India's welcoming embrace. Here are some other things I learnt.

Ten things I learnt on my first visit to India
Ten things I learnt on my first visit to India

The Age

timea day ago

  • The Age

Ten things I learnt on my first visit to India

I'm anxious about my first visit to India. Faced with its vast scale, history and humanity, its crowds, poverty and colour, I'm determined to channel Judi Dench's intrepid, open-hearted character from Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, Evelyn Greenslade. I fear, however, that I will quickly turn into Penelope Wilton's uptight and unadventurous Jean Ainslie, who soon flees back to her less challenging English homeland. My apprehension increases when I hear that even Traveller's resident Tripologist and Indophile, Michael Gebicki, has succumbed to illness while there, despite more than 20 visits. What hope is there for a first-timer like me? The journalist visa process is a frustrating jumble of red tape and clunky websites, and my first (domestic) flight is booked in the wrong direction. It feels like the universe is warning me not to risk it. I'm travelling with a small group on a brief yet unquestionably luxurious journey to Rajasthan with Abercrombie & Kent. The flight from Melbourne to Delhi is jam-packed with members of Australia's Indian diaspora, regarded as the nation's most successful. There are crying babies, pungent wafts of curry and a handful of passengers ignoring (or not understanding) the attendants' instructions to remain seated after landing, resulting in frustrated yelling from said attendants. It seems like another sign of the chaos that's undoubtedly to come. As we land at Indira Gandhi airport, I help a family laden down with bags and toddler paraphernalia until they get to passport control, where we part ways. But later, as I emerge with my own luggage into the arrivals hall, their young daughter spots me in the crowd, runs over and gives me the biggest hug – and suddenly I begin to understand the warmth of India's welcoming embrace. Here are some other things I learnt.

Help wanted: How to choose the perfect guide for your next African safari
Help wanted: How to choose the perfect guide for your next African safari

New York Post

time11-06-2025

  • New York Post

Help wanted: How to choose the perfect guide for your next African safari

Imagine spending the small fortune it costs to go on an African safari and not seeing a single elephant, baboon or dung beetle. Could you even still call it a safari? Camps can build over-the-top wine cellars and art galleries all day but, 'It's not often people are excited about a luxury property if it doesn't have the guides and trackers to match,' said Tamsyn Fricker, director of Travel Artistry Africa. After all, you can sip Château Mouton-Rothschild anywhere in the world, but having front row seats to a David Attenborough-worthy showdown between prides of lions only happens in Africa — and only with the help of true experts. 9 Top guides can get you out of the jeep and into the wild. Courtesy of Abercrombie & Kent 'Without a good guide, you might as well be driving yourself around,' said Brian Rode, senior field guide at Singita Kruger National Park. 'You need someone to explain what's going on in a way that's easy to understand, particularly if you're not concentrating so much on the large animals.' So how do you find a guide who can transform your safari into a thrilling, life-changing and, dare we say, spiritual adventure? We asked the best in the safari industry for their tips. Study buddies 9 Safaris require careful planning and attention to details. Courtesy of Singita In the good old days of Ernest Hemingway and Teddy Roosevelt, safari guides were expected to do little more than lead you directly to dangerous game while, hopefully, keeping you alive. Now, they must simultaneously ensure you have the time of your life — regaling you with death-defying stories of the bush, dropping encyclopedic wildlife facts and mixing perfectly balanced gin and tonics. 'The best guides are those who bring a blend of extensive experience, in-depth knowledge, and a passion for sharing the wonders of the natural world with guests,' said Justin Trappe, A&K Sanctuary regional operations manager. 'A guide's ability to connect with guests, anticipate their needs and create a comfortable, engaging environment is crucial. The best guides are those who not only help guests get close to the action, but do so in a way that prioritizes the safety and well-being of the animals.' 9 The best guides take an active role in caring for the local wildlife. Courtesy of Singita 9 They are highly educated with trunks and trunks of knowledge. Courtesy of Abercrombie & Kent Top guides will have reached a higher level of qualification through their respective certifying body, such as the Field Guides Association of Southern Africa (FGASA), and may have a senior rank, such as head guide, at their camp. The ones who stand out tend to gravitate to properties with sterling reputations in legendary private concessions. For example, guides at Singita Kruger must have at least a level 2 FGASA qualification and have worked for a minimum of two years in a similar lodge. 'I'm a big believer that, if you stay at a random camp in the middle of a national park, you're probably going to get a lackluster guide or someone who is very new and hasn't worked their way up yet,' said Fricker. 'When choosing your lodge, you're also choosing your quality of guide.' Matchmaking 9 Chemistry is key to any good safari. Courtesy of Singita Just like any great relationship, your chemistry with your guide matters. No one wants to be stuck for days on end in a jeep with a person who makes your vacation feel like a high school field trip. Many elite guides are adaptable, tailoring each experience to different types of travelers, whether they're an adventurous couple or a family with young children. The very best matches are personalized and take into account details like travel style, group dynamics, hobbies and level of experience. 'The guide who's done the most, seen the most and has the best qualifications might not be the right guide for you,' said Fricker. 'I spend two hours talking to my clients before I do anything, because I need to have a deep understanding of who they are as travelers to find their perfect guide.' 9 There's more to safaris than lions and the other Big Five (but they're not unwelcome, ahem.) Courtesy of Singita A guide can even change the way you view nature, providing you with a deeper and more enriching visit, whether you witness a kill or not. 'Over the past few decades people have been conditioned to only want the typical safari where they see as many lions and other Big Five animals as they can,' said Jo Bailes, Singita CEO. 'For me, the most skilled guides are the ones who can transform your experience and captivate people with the little things and ecosystems instead. They get almost spiritual in the way that they share and speak about nature — that's where the magic is with true storytelling.' Special ed 9 And if you have a penchant for birding, don't be shy to chirp up. (No, not you.) Sanctuary Retreats / Ian Johnson If you're traveling to Africa with a certain interest — say, a budding obsession for birding — a specialty guide can enhance your stay. 'Different guides have different strengths,' said Rode. 'For example, Bernard is a history buff. If you want to know any of the tribal history in this area, Bernard is great for that. If you want somebody who's very good with their birds, you've got Chantelle and myself.' Sometimes a speciality, such as botany, can be officially certified by the local guiding association, while others are less formal. Due to demand, more and more lodges, such as Tswalu and Singita Kruger, are offering photography guides to help guests capture that perfect Instagram-worthy shot. Track meets 'I spend two hours talking to my clients before I do anything, because I need to have a deep understanding of who they are as travelers to find their perfect guide.' Tamsyn Fricker, director of Travel Artistry Africa At some lodges, most notably in South Africa, a guide is only one half of the team leading you into the wild. Trackers identify and interpret signs in nature, from footprints and birdsong to scat and broken twigs. Often, they're rooted in indigenous communities who have lived in the region for eons. 'The wisdom keepers of the bush are the trackers,' said Bailes. 'When I'm in the bush, I want to be with the tracker, learning about the meaning and the symbols behind plants, animals and nature. Everything has a story, everything has a reason behind why it is and the way it is. We have the opportunity to learn so much from it all, if we only get taught to truly see.' If you're at a camp that uses trackers, ask if they work as a partner team or if you can request a specific person. Your safari will be much richer for it. Private eyes 9 Walking safaris are becoming popular, but you need a guide you can trust to stalk big game. Courtesy of Singita Hiring an independent private guide who works outside of the camp isn't right for everyone, but it might be the best option if you have an intense interest in a special subject area, such as insects. 'All of our guides can talk to you about the prominent butterflies,' said Rode. 'But if you only want to look for the rarer species the whole time you're here, you're probably going to need a private guide who is an entomologist.' Independent guides also provide continuity if you're traveling to multiple destinations, and can fill in the gaps if you're visiting properties where the guiding isn't up to snuff. Still, many advisors warn you should think twice about booking someone who isn't intimately knowledgeable with the area, from the movement patterns of the wildlife to the intricacies of the terrain. 'I can understand why people love the idea of being fully hosted,' said Fricker. 'It kind of becomes like you are visiting your best friend in Africa once a year. But I've had some clients say it feels like overkill. I always wonder what happens to the quality of the experience on the ground, because you might be deferring to your private guide and not the local experts.' Tricks of the trade 9 Courtesy of Singita Book ahead: Any requests you make go through the camp's head guide, who schedules the entire team. The earlier you book, the more likely it is they can accommodate your wishes. Remember that it's not unusual for Africa's most popular properties to fill up a year in advance during peak season. Know what you want: Are there any specific species or types of wildlife you're particularly interested in seeing? Are you more focused on game viewing, birding or learning about the landscape and its flora? Do you prefer a more immersive, adventurous safari experience, or would you rather observe wildlife from a comfortable distance? Reserve a private vehicle: Most lodges don't guarantee a private vehicle unless you pay extra, but the cost is likely worth it if you have special interests. Avoid peak season: During peak season, every vehicle will be full and your choice of guide becomes more limited. If you're able to travel during low season, you stand a chance of landing a private vehicle for free. Bring in backup: Hiring a travel advisor with close connections to Africa's top lodges can swing the odds in your favor. Stick with who you know: Once you find your safari soul mate, there's nothing wrong with requesting them again and again. 'These relationships are especially important for returning guests, as the guide already knows their interests and can build on previous experiences,' said Trappe.

Port guide: Luxor, Egypt
Port guide: Luxor, Egypt

Sydney Morning Herald

time29-04-2025

  • Sydney Morning Herald

Port guide: Luxor, Egypt

The Nile River is the most astonishing river cruise destination in the world, and Luxor has some of its biggest and best sights. Who goes there Abercrombie & Kent, APT, Avalon, Riviera, Travelmarvel, Uniworld, Viking and Sanctuary are among companies with Nile ships. Some hotels such as Oberoi and Movenpick operate vessels too, and many tour companies offer land-river packages. The best but busiest season is October to April; you'll save considerably if you think you can bear the fierce (but dry) off-season heat. Sail on in You ought to be glued to the ship's deck for the entire Nile cruise between Luxor and Aswan, which dishes up a glorious parade of villages, temples, farmland and orange desert landscapes. You'll also enjoy kids greeting you from bridges and rowboats, and an endless flotilla of passing ferries and feluccas. As you sail into Luxor, you'll see grand ancient temples and a cacophonous town rise on the east side of the river, while on the west bank lies the brooding silence of the barren hills that lodge pharaohs' tombs. Berth rites The smaller your ship, the closer to town it will likely dock, but all ships tie up somewhere along the east bank's Corniche. Given poor public transport, most airport transfers are included by cruise companies, saving you worry about exactly where your ship will be. There's also an airport shuttle that will drop you off at ships. Going ashore The long riverside Corniche links old and new Luxor and provides for great strolling, especially when the sun sets across the Nile. You don't have to go far to see top sights. Luxor Temple is a complex of temples, courtyards, obelisks and sphinxes, onto which has been cobbled a Roman sanctuary and later mosque. It looks spectacular under evening illuminations. Further down the Corniche is the fascinating Mummification Museum and then Luxor Museum, filled with sculpted masterpieces.

Port guide: Luxor, Egypt
Port guide: Luxor, Egypt

The Age

time29-04-2025

  • The Age

Port guide: Luxor, Egypt

The Nile River is the most astonishing river cruise destination in the world, and Luxor has some of its biggest and best sights. Who goes there Abercrombie & Kent, APT, Avalon, Riviera, Travelmarvel, Uniworld, Viking and Sanctuary are among companies with Nile ships. Some hotels such as Oberoi and Movenpick operate vessels too, and many tour companies offer land-river packages. The best but busiest season is October to April; you'll save considerably if you think you can bear the fierce (but dry) off-season heat. Sail on in You ought to be glued to the ship's deck for the entire Nile cruise between Luxor and Aswan, which dishes up a glorious parade of villages, temples, farmland and orange desert landscapes. You'll also enjoy kids greeting you from bridges and rowboats, and an endless flotilla of passing ferries and feluccas. As you sail into Luxor, you'll see grand ancient temples and a cacophonous town rise on the east side of the river, while on the west bank lies the brooding silence of the barren hills that lodge pharaohs' tombs. Berth rites The smaller your ship, the closer to town it will likely dock, but all ships tie up somewhere along the east bank's Corniche. Given poor public transport, most airport transfers are included by cruise companies, saving you worry about exactly where your ship will be. There's also an airport shuttle that will drop you off at ships. Going ashore The long riverside Corniche links old and new Luxor and provides for great strolling, especially when the sun sets across the Nile. You don't have to go far to see top sights. Luxor Temple is a complex of temples, courtyards, obelisks and sphinxes, onto which has been cobbled a Roman sanctuary and later mosque. It looks spectacular under evening illuminations. Further down the Corniche is the fascinating Mummification Museum and then Luxor Museum, filled with sculpted masterpieces.

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