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Japan Forward
08-05-2025
- Japan Forward
Ise Peninsula: Into the Mystic
Traveling through the Ise Peninsula is a little like passing through an ancient force field. The land, if not entirely of the gods, is one of powerful, at times even tangible, forces. Centered on the grid of Ise Jingu, a complex of shrines and dedicatory sites, transmissions from the spot radiate throughout the peninsula. They manifest themselves in the number of shrines, many of them sea-facing, temples, dedication stones, religious statues, and miniature rocks shaped into a likeness of Mount Fuji. I hesitate to associate the area with the word "power spot," an overused expression often employed to drum up visitor numbers to formerly unremarkable sights. But the peninsula is, almost by definition, a region throbbing with the sacred. A miniature sacred Mount Fuji rock in the precincts of a local Ise shrine. (©Stephen Mansfield) Coming by design or chance upon age-old rituals and ceremonies, watching Japanese supplicants at prayer, or making offerings in tiny forest shrines, adds to the sensation of being connected in some mysterious fashion to a powerful spiritual eminence. Ise Jingu is the source of this supra-natural spiritual energy. It consists of worship sites not only for ordinary Japanese people and other visitors but for centuries of imperial family members. The shrines and their sacred halls are consecrated to the Sun Goddess, Amaterasu, the putative ancestor of an imperial line believed to stretch back two thousand years. They are located in the depths of a cryptomeria forest, the perpetual twilight creating a uniquely Japanese air of sanctity. Atmosphere surpasses the actual encounter, as the shrines can only be glimpsed from the outside. The interior is off-limits to all but the priests who serve here, high-ranking Shinto officials, members of the imperial family, and specially entitled guests. Judging from the smoothness of the trunk, many people have touched this sacred tree on the grounds of Naiku, Ise's Inner Shrine. (©Stephen Mansfield) Photography beyond the tori gates that announce the entrance to the compounds is strictly prohibited. There is a certain irony in the fact that these simple structures, some of the most important religious monuments in the world, cannot be seen in their entirety. It's as if the doors of Westminster Abbey or the Sistine Chapel were permanently closed, their tombs, stained-glass windows, and paintings imagined rather than confirmed. It does, though, add to a sense of impenetrable mystique. Naiku, Ise's Inner Shrine, is the stage for a surprisingly large number of rites connected to rice cultivation and harvesting. Interestingly, the shrines at Ise, predicated on the idea of purity, are rebuilt in identical form every twenty years. The practice was begun in 690 AD, and has continued without interruption to the present day. The next rebuilding, if you happen to be around, will take place in 2033. Judged masterpieces of native, vernacular architecture, the German architect Bruno Taut (1880–1938), overwhelmed by the majestic simplicity of the structures, declared, "The Parthenon is the most aesthetically sublime building in stone, as are the Ise shrines in wood." Simple, but architecturally pure structures at Ise Jingu. (©Stephen Mansfield) The inner sanctums of the shrine not being open to the general public, the prohibition is responsible for the sublime irony that one of the world's foremost religious monuments remains invisible to the eye. It may be that the spirit of the Grand Shrines, their air of sanctity and mystery, derives from the very lack of drama and exposure. It comes not from an over-abundance of religious ornamentation, but from native spatial forms that can resemble empty theaters. A similar, but smaller set of sacred structures exists at Geku, the Outer Shrine, dedicated to Toyouke O-kami, the Divinity of Abundant Food. Some visitors prefer the proportions of this complex, which, dedicated to divinities, feels closer to the human scale. Though similarly concealed from the sight of visitors, the Mike-den, a secondary structure of the outermost enclosure, has a fence that you can peer through and sometimes see food offerings being made. On the way to Naiku, the bus passed Sarutahiko, an easily overlooked shrine. We later looped back to it, drawn by the sound of drums. Here, a sacred rice growing ritual was taking place, involving men and women dressed in traditional farming wear. A scene from a rice ritual at Sarutahiko Shrine. (©Stephen Mansfield) Female participants at a rice harvest ritual on the grounds of an Ise shrine. (©Stephen Mansfield) There were already several spectators lined up around a rice paddy at the back of the shrine, and a ceremony involving sake was taking place next to the field, with two priests summoning the gods by blowing on conches. The slow, methodical movements of the sowers were mesmeric. A scene from a rice ritual at Sarutahiko Shrine. (©Stephen Mansfield) Giant fans form part of a rice-planting ritual at Sarutahiko Shrine. (©Stephen Mansfield) Coming across the ritual was pure luck, the first of a number of auspicious events that took place over those short days. Driving into the coastal town of Futami, on the northeast coast of the peninsula, I was lucky to find a parking space, such was the number of visitors. This was soon explained. The site of the famous Meoto Iwa, or "wedded rocks," is an image that finds itself on calendars, tourist brochures, and international airports. It was playing host to a ritual in which its two boulders were being decked out with fresh shimenawa , or sacred ropes. A participant involved in the ritual of rope placement at Meoto Iwa. (©Stephen Mansfield) Representing the primordial deities, Izanagi and Izanami, the founding gods of Japan, the replacement process required the services of several men. Each waded through the sea to the rocks, bearing sections of the heavy rope. A simple enough task, you might think, but one necessitating great physical strength and group coordination. A "shimenawa" sacred rice fiber rope and paper "gohei" streamers encircle a sacred tree. (©Stephen Mansfield) It was late afternoon and chilly when I made my way along a woodland path towards the waterfall of Shirataki Daimyojin, on the outskirts of Toba, a key port on the peninsula. Wood smoke emitted from a fire built up for two young women who had just finished a purification ritual known as misogi. The ritual involved standing beneath a cooling toreent, chanting the words, " neigai tamae , kanae tamae ," meaning "pray hard, that it may come to pass." Claiming to feel thoroughly purified by the immersions, the women described their self-administered ordeal as "experience tourism." Sights like this are less well-documented than some of the region's other highly publicized events. However, visitors who have more time to penetrate the interior of the peninsula, its forest shrines, and ancient mountain temples will discover a seemingly lost world of esoteric spiritual practices. Exploring an intensely cultural region like this can be a thirsty business. That night I ordered two freezing cans of Simo Beer. It's a curious name, but when you hear it pronounced as "Shimo," it begins to make more sense, the spelling denoting the old name of the area. Shinto, the faith that pervades this region, has no truck with drinking. In fact, sake is a sacred brew. It's a belief system that appears to endorse a view of life that, despite its formalistic rituals, offers a good deal of latitude. On the Ise Peninsula, we found that alcoholic spirits and the spirit of place converge in perfect harmony, and to everyone's spiritual and bodily enrichment. Author: Stephen Mansfield
New York Times
22-04-2025
- Entertainment
- New York Times
Why Some of Japan's Most Exciting Cultural Figures Are of Korean Descent
THE STORY GOES that the Japanese imperial family, which claims the world's longest unbroken royal lineage, is descended from a sun goddess, Amaterasu. That's common lore. But what's less discussed is that another famous ancestor, Emperor Kammu, who ruled from 781-806, was a descendant of a Korean king. In the rest of the world — where Korean restaurants, music and film have transformed popular culture — the discovery of Korean antecedents might be something to celebrate. And Japan owes significant parts of its religion, cuisine and art to Korea: Buddhism, fermented soybeans and a certain style of ceramics all arrived from Korea. The country that changed modern culture and design, from A to Z But in the 19th century, Japan began to embrace imperialism, culminating in the brutal annexation of Korea. From 1910 to 1945, Japan occupied Korea, compelling women into prostitution, banning the native language in schools, forcing Koreans to take Japanese names and relocating hundreds of thousands of Koreans to Japan as laborers or army conscripts. To this day, some of their offspring, known as Zainichi, do not possess Japanese citizenship despite having lived in Japan for generations. (South Korea will accept them as nationals.) Many Japanese today aren't fully aware of the brutality of their country's occupation of Korea; textbooks have tended to gloss over or elide the imperialism that brought Japanese soldiers to much of East Asia. While Japan's claim to a shared ancestry with Korea was used to legitimize the annexation of its neighbor, it took more than half a century after World War II for the imperial family to formally recognize its Korean heritage. In 2001, shortly before Japan and South Korea co-hosted the FIFA World Cup, then-Emperor Akihito acknowledged the Korean link to his eighth-century forefather. Despite this history of erasure, a number of Zainichi — there are estimated to be about 400,000 people of Korean descent living in Japan — have become prominent artists or cultural figures in the country, among them the designer Sonya Park, the actress and model Kiko Mizuhara and the filmmaker Tetsuaki Matsue. 'I consider myself to be neither Japanese nor Korean,' says Yu Miri, 56, a Zainichi novelist and playwright who won Japan's most prestigious literary prize in 1997. Her works concern otherness, including that of the Zainichi. 'Since I chose to pursue writing as a career at the age of 18, I have answered the question 'Who do you write for?' with 'I write for people who have no place in the world,'' she says. The Zainichi identity struggle also animates the work of Soni Kum, an interdisciplinary artist who was born and raised in Tokyo but was stateless until she received South Korean citizenship when she was in her 20s in the mid-2000s. Kum tried living in various countries but eventually ended up back in Japan. Some Zainichi trace their roots to what is today North Korea, and teachers from their community portrayed the country as a socialist paradise. As a result, tens of thousands of Zainichi emigrated to North Korea between 1959 and 1983. (In the '70s and '80s, at least 17 Japanese were also kidnapped by North Korean agents and taken by boat to North Korea.) 'I remember that whenever a political dispute was raised between Japan and Korea, our bodies were targeted as a form of retaliation and violence,' Kum says. 'My artwork has been an emanation of those missing pieces, of deprived voices, regardless of race and ethnicity.' Explore More Read the editor's letter here. Take a closer look at the covers. Want all of The Times? Subscribe.
Khaleej Times
02-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Khaleej Times
Restaurant Review: Ronin serves a theatrical feast
In Dubai, a city where dining is elevated to an art form, Ronin at FIVE Luxe, JBR, stands out—not just for its exquisite flavours but for its experience. From the moment you step inside, the restaurant sets the stage for an evening that is as much about presentation as it is about palate. The ambiance? Nothing short of cinematic. A glowing canopy of crimson lanterns bathes the space in an ethereal warmth, while sleek, dark-hued interiors evoke a sense of intimate luxury. The welcome is as dramatic as the decor. A thunderous bang of the taiko drum announces your arrival, a traditional touch that instantly transports you into the heart of Japan's vibrant culinary theatrics. Not to be outdone, the open kitchen crackles to life with a quick burst of fire. For the unversed, ronin is a term for wandering samurai of feudal Japan who didn't have any lords or masters. The meal began with an impeccably curated sushi platter—a fresh, delicate prelude that set the tone for the dishes ahead. But careful not to over-indulge. Our small bites were where the chef's craft truly shone. The Wagyu Truffle Gyoza, with its silky truffle ponzu butter and whisper of pickled truffle, melted effortlessly on the tongue, each bite a delicious balance of umami and indulgence. The Wagyu Tsukune, skewers of fatty wagyu draped in rich teriyaki and crowned with a golden quail egg, were decadent, their velvety richness countered by the yolk's creaminess. The Yaki Tori, a classic pairing of chicken and leeks lacquered in teriyaki sauce, is another dish you need to check out. For the mains, I usually go for steak. So I had to try the Wagyu Tenderloin 'Toban Yaki', kissed with tsume sauce and chimichurri. Perfectly seared, its buttery texture yielded effortlessly beneath the knife, each slice enhanced by a touch of sea salt that let the beef's natural flavours come out. The Miso Molten Chocolate, a revelation of deep cocoa notes intertwined with the savoury miso, oozed into a pool of vanilla ice cream and hazelnut crunch—this is a dessert you simply cannot skip. A meal of such extravagance deserved a beverage to match, and Amaterasu delivered just that. This exquisite mocktail, blending Lyres London Dry with lychee, mangosteen, and citrus, was nothing short of addictive. The cold fusion of mango and lychee danced on the palate with every sip, its delicate sweetness and refreshing zest making it impossible to resist—I had three glasses and would have gladly gone for more. For someone who loves Japanese culture (I've been on a spree of playing Japanese video games and watching TV shows/films), it is safe to say that there's a new favourite eatery in town.
South China Morning Post
15-02-2025
- South China Morning Post
What to do in Nagano, Japan's winter wonderland, if you don't ski
Published: 1:15pm, 15 Feb 2025 The air is crisp, the snow deep and undisturbed. The Japanese Alps tower around us, beckoning us to their slopes. In central Japan, just under two hours from Tokyo by bullet train, Nagano is known for its world-class ski resorts. But while the area's mountains are undeniably magnetic – they were the stage for the 1998 Winter Olympics – we are not here to carve through powder. Instead, we tread a narrow trail that winds through a forest of ancient cedar trees, their massive trunks cloaked in frost. The silence is broken only by the soft crunch of our footsteps. Our destination? A hidden shrine tucked deep in the woods where time feels as though it has stood still for centuries. The path at Togakushi Shrine is lined with 400-year-old cedar trees. Photo: Xinyi Wu Togakushi Shrine dates back more than 1,000 years. According to Japanese legend, the sun goddess Amaterasu hid in a cave after becoming upset with her younger brother, plunging the world into darkness.
Yahoo
14-02-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Okami 2: 7 Small Details We Now Know About The Mysterious Sequel To A PS2 Cult Classic
Okami 2 was one of the most surprising game reveals ever, as evidenced by the fact that host Geoff Keighley almost broke into tears when talking about it at The Game Awards 2024. But there's still a ton we don't know about the sequel to the beloved PlayStation 2 cult hit, including its official title. That's starting to change now, however, as director Hideki Kamiya and the rest of the team in charge of development open up about the highly anticipated project. In a new interview with IGN, Kamiya and others laid out what fans of the 2006 game can expect from this follow-up two decades later. The original Okami let players control the goddess of the sun, Amaterasu, in the form of a white wolf with magical ink abilities who sets out to free a vibrant, painterly countryside from demonic curses. It was inspired by The Legend of Zelda but looked and played unlike anything else at the time. Despite critical acclaim and a 2010 successor for the DS called Okamiden, Capcom eventually abandoned the franchise, seemingly due to poor sales. So why return to the beautiful world of Okami all these years later, especially when big publishers appear more focused than ever on blockbuster games that sell millions of copies? We learned the answer to 'why now?' and some other important questions in IGN's profile of the upcoming game: Capcom wanted to bring Okami back but was waiting until Kamiya was available again (he worked at Platinum Games until 2023) The team is using the RE Engine that all major Capcom games have been adopting in order to realize 'Kamiya-san's artistic dreams for this project' The sequel will be a direct continuation of the first game's story, which Kamiya said he always felt was left unfinished (that's Amaterasu in the reveal teaser) Despite being announced last December, the Okami sequel has only just begun development In talking about updating the control scheme of the original game, Kamiya said he wants 'people of all ages to be able to enjoy it,' even if they aren't hardcore gamers Okami has sold better than many people think: across ports and the HD remaster, the sales are currently at 4.6 million Kamiya isn't the only veteran of the original game working on it. Kiyohiko Sakata heads up Capcom partner studio Heart Machine Games, which handled the HD port Kamiya and the rest of those involved in Okami 2 didn't go into much more detail beyond that, either because they're waiting to reveal it later or, since it's still so early in development, they don't actually know themselves. It remains unclear just how big of a budget and launch the game will have, but one thing Capcom has proven in recent years is that even smaller releases, at least relative to a Monster Hunter Wilds or Resident Evil 7, can still deliver something exceptionally special. That's how I felt about 2024's Kunitsu-Gami: Path of the Goddess, a gorgeous action strategy game with a streamlined focus on its core mechanics. While some may have a desire for Okami to now be realized in a sprawling open world full of characters to meet and secrets to discover, akin to how Zelda has evolved in recent years, I'd love to see the sequel stay more focused and not become too burdened with modern AAA expectations and bloat. It might also be the only way we see Okami 2 come out a few years from now, rather than being made to wait over half a decade for a sequel many of us have already been dreaming of across multiple console generations. . For the latest news, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.
