Restaurant Review: Ronin serves a theatrical feast

Khaleej Times

02-04-2025

In Dubai, a city where dining is elevated to an art form, Ronin at FIVE Luxe, JBR, stands out—not just for its exquisite flavours but for its experience. From the moment you step inside, the restaurant sets the stage for an evening that is as much about presentation as it is about palate. The ambiance? Nothing short of cinematic. A glowing canopy of crimson lanterns bathes the space in an ethereal warmth, while sleek, dark-hued interiors evoke a sense of intimate luxury.
The welcome is as dramatic as the decor. A thunderous bang of the taiko drum announces your arrival, a traditional touch that instantly transports you into the heart of Japan's vibrant culinary theatrics. Not to be outdone, the open kitchen crackles to life with a quick burst of fire.
For the unversed, ronin is a term for wandering samurai of feudal Japan who didn't have any lords or masters.
The meal began with an impeccably curated sushi platter—a fresh, delicate prelude that set the tone for the dishes ahead. But careful not to over-indulge.
Our small bites were where the chef's craft truly shone. The Wagyu Truffle Gyoza, with its silky truffle ponzu butter and whisper of pickled truffle, melted effortlessly on the tongue, each bite a delicious balance of umami and indulgence. The Wagyu Tsukune, skewers of fatty wagyu draped in rich teriyaki and crowned with a golden quail egg, were decadent, their velvety richness countered by the yolk's creaminess. The Yaki Tori, a classic pairing of chicken and leeks lacquered in teriyaki sauce, is another dish you need to check out.
For the mains, I usually go for steak. So I had to try the Wagyu Tenderloin 'Toban Yaki', kissed with tsume sauce and chimichurri. Perfectly seared, its buttery texture yielded effortlessly beneath the knife, each slice enhanced by a touch of sea salt that let the beef's natural flavours come out.
The Miso Molten Chocolate, a revelation of deep cocoa notes intertwined with the savoury miso, oozed into a pool of vanilla ice cream and hazelnut crunch—this is a dessert you simply cannot skip.
A meal of such extravagance deserved a beverage to match, and Amaterasu delivered just that. This exquisite mocktail, blending Lyres London Dry with lychee, mangosteen, and citrus, was nothing short of addictive. The cold fusion of mango and lychee danced on the palate with every sip, its delicate sweetness and refreshing zest making it impossible to resist—I had three glasses and would have gladly gone for more.
For someone who loves Japanese culture (I've been on a spree of playing Japanese video games and watching TV shows/films), it is safe to say that there's a new favourite eatery in town.