Latest news with #Angkor
Times
6 days ago
- Times
Six of the best backpacking routes across southeast Asia
Southeast Asia is still the ultimate destination for backpacking adventures. The region spans 11 countries, from Myanmar to the Philippines, and is a kaleidoscope of cultures, landscapes and flavours. Today it blends classic routes with modern-age comforts too, making it easier than ever to chase the big moments: think high-speed trains, eco-stays and better connectivity. Whether it's sunrise over Angkor, motorcycle rides through misty limestone mountains or late-night bowls of noodles in Bangkok's buzzing Chinatown, there are well-known sights and those you'll want to keep secret for yourself. To help you plan, we've mapped out six journeys that highlight the best of the region, plus options for group travel. Here are southeast Asia's best backpacking routes. This article contains affiliate links that will earn us revenue Recommended time two to three weeks First-timers can experience southeast Asia's highlights — rich nature, buzzing cities, epic beaches — in a journey between its top travel hubs, Bangkok and Singapore. In Bangkok, visit the sprawling Chatuchak weekend market, sip cocktails at BKK Social Club — one of the city's best bars but with a price tag to match — and feast on Michelin-starred street food at Jay Fai. Then head to the island of Phuket, a 1.5-hour flight or 12-hour bus ride away. For extra room, book the 24-seat VIP sleeper buses that depart from Bangkok's Southern Bus Terminal in the Taling Chan district. Five days affords enough time to explore the city of Phuket, where colourful 19th-century buildings house boutique hotels, hostels, lively bars and cafés, and places to try dim sum. Although most come to idle on some of the province's thirty or so beaches, including seven-mile Mai Khao right next to the airport. Take a flight or overnight bus to Penang across the border in Malaysia and wander around the Unesco site of George Town. Gorgeous Sino-Portuguese architecture sits next to Buddhist shrines, Hindu temples and mosques, while hawker centres serve everything from Hokkien noodles to nasi lemak (Malay-style coconut rice with sides) and roti canai (flaky Indian flatbread served with curry). Head to your next stop, Kuala Lumpur, by train. Malaysia's efficient railway network is among the region's best, and you'll reach the capital in about four hours. Spend a few days here to eyeball the Petronas Twin Towers, visit the Islamic Arts Museum and explore the Batu Caves, a Hindu pilgrimage site known for its large statue of Murugan, god of war. Venturing two hours south to the city of Malacca allows you to explore another Unesco site, which showcases its British, Dutch and Portuguese influences in windmills, forts, shophouses and fusion dishes such as Portuguese-style devil's curry. End your adventure in Singapore, but beware the backpacker budget may go out the window here if you're not careful. Hostels are more expensive and the city is known for its luxury hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants; instead head to the hawker centres for the best no-frills food. Look for the stalls with the longest queues and it's hard to go wrong. Intrepid Travel's 15-day Bangkok to Singapore tour takes groups of up to 12 adventurers on a similar itinerary. But, instead of Phuket, you'll spend two days in Khao Sok National Park, exploring vast caves and one of Earth's oldest rainforests; then two more in Krabi at the resort town of Ao Nang, sea kayaking and wildlife spotting, with free time for beachcombing or rock climbing. • Best hotels in Bangkok• Best affordable hotels in Singapore Recommended time one to two weeks Get off the beaten track in northern Vietnam's remote Ha Giang province. This road trip — a loop between the districts of Dong Van and Meo Vac — is revered for dizzying mountain passes, jaw-dropping limestone karst and deep cultural experiences. Travellers typically rent a motorcycle and enlist the services of a local guide in the laidback provincial capital of Ha Giang, then spend three to four days navigating roads that curve through quiet villages and rice-terraced hillsides near the Chinese border. Homestays with H'mong, Tay or Dao families offer a brief and unforgettable immersion into highland life, while the route itself delivers major highlights: the rolling peaks of the Dong Van Karst Plateau, the vertigo-inducing Ma Pi Leng Pass and the Lung Cu Flag Tower marking Vietnam's northernmost point. The ride usually ends back in Ha Giang, where regular night buses return to Hanoi. But the journey can be continued with a few easy detours. Keep riding or take the bus to Cao Bang, where the tiered, turquoise Ban Gioc waterfall crashes across the border into China — and where Nui Thung Mountain (Angel Eye Mountain) defies logic with a hole right through its middle. Then visit Ba Be National Park for a break among limestone cliffs and the jungle-fringed Ba Be Lake. This is another incredible place to explore the region's diversity. Tay, Dao, Kinh and H'mong communities all live around the lake, and many villages offer homestays. When it's time to end the tour, take the bus to Hanoi and indulge in cups of ca phe trung (the city's signature egg coffee) and drinks at the growing number of cocktail bars. Contiki is your best bet for partly replicating the above itinerary courtesy of its Ha Giang Loop — a five-day circuit offered as an extension to longer Vietnam tours. Participants trek to the Ma Pi Leng Pass, cruise along one of Asia's largest canyons, discover local culture in Dong Van and overnight in humble homestays. • Best hotels in Hanoi Recommended time three to four weeks Most travellers start in Bangkok, but Thailand's underrated second city, Chiang Mai, can captivate you for weeks. The former Lanna kingdom capital has teak temples such as Wat Phra Singh, mellow Burmese-influenced dishes like khao soi (yellow curry with egg noodles) and vibrant areas with snacks, shopping, street-side massages, music and more. The city also serves as a gateway for adventure travel, offering treks to Karen and H'mong villages, plus thundering waterfalls like the 280m-high Mae Ya. For an extended trip, take a minivan to Chiang Rai province, about four hours north, and explore its diverse attractions: blissful eco-lodges, national parks, the blue and white temples Wat Rong Suea Ten and Wat Rong Khun, and the Choui Fong tea fields in Mae Chan. Consider the overnight slow boat from the Thai border town Chiang Khong to Luang Prabang, Laos's imperial capital. This one-of-a-kind journey rumbles along the Mekong, past dense jungles, offering snapshots of rural life you won't find elsewhere. Otherwise, Chiang Mai airport offers direct flights to Luang Prabang. Unwind in Laos's cultural capital, immersing yourself in the city's numerous temples, the turquoise Kuang Si waterfall, the dawn tak bat (alms-giving ritual) and a Lao massage. For about £15, a modern high-speed train takes you to Vang Vieng in an hour. This revamped backpacker hub is now Laos's outdoor adventure hub, primed for bike roads and treks around the stunning limestone karst formations. Take the train once more to the capital, Vientiane. After exploring the Patuxai war monument — Laos's answer to the Arc de Triomphe — head to the riverside for larb (minced meat salad) with a cold Lao beer. With travel restrictions in place at the Thai-Cambodian border, heading south by bus is out, so instead fly to Phnom Penh. The Cambodian capital has cruises along the Mekong, hip bistros and buzzing markets to explore. You should also allow time for its Tuol Sleng and Killing Fields museums related to the Khmer Rouge genocide. End your tour in Siem Reap, where impressive temples await. Nothing tops watching the sunrise over Angkor Wat. Contiki, which has an age limit of 35, operates a 16-day tour that starts in Bangkok before heading north to Chiang Mai and onto Chiang Rai's temples. Entering Laos, you'll cruise along the Mekong to Luang Prabang to meet monks before taking the train towards Vang Vieng and Vientiane. A flight to Phnom Penh follows, and a full day at Angkor offers a fitting finale. • Best places to visit in Thailand• Best things to do in Thailand• Is it safe to travel to Thailand and Cambodia? Recommended time two weeks Journeys to Borneo tend to start in one of two places: Jakarta or Singapore. While the Indonesian capital has its charms, Singapore's transport infrastructure (including Changi, frequently ranked the best airport in the world) makes it the easier choice. From here, fly to Kota Kinabalu to hike up 4,095m (13,435ft) Mount Kinabalu for sunrise, then join a tour to see orangutans in the jungle. If time is limited, go to the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre instead. After a one-stop flight to Bali, spend a week exploring the Island of the Gods. Bali is well-trodden, but you can still find places away from the crowds. For example, skip overrun Kuta and Seminyak in favour of the brilliant white-sand beaches of Bingin or blissful Nunggalan in Uluwatu. Take a day trip to Nusa Penida island to hike, dive or lounge in the sand, or head to the backpacker hub Ubud, where you'll find plenty of others who want to join you in a visit to the Tegallalang rice terraces and Tirta Empul, the sacred water temple. If you have more time, take the ferry to the car-free Gili Islands, which are prime spots to snorkel and encounter sea turtles, or neighbouring Lombok, a larger island known for its pink beach and hikes around Mount Rinjani, an active volcano. Of the three stunning Gili Islands, Gili Trawangan has a lively party scene, while Gili Air and Gili Meno are much quieter. Group tours almost never combine Bali with Borneo, so it may mean booking two separate packages. For the Indonesia leg, Intrepid's Jakarta to Ubud itinerary spends two weeks crossing Indonesia; instead of Kinabalu you'll hike up Mount Bromo at sunrise, while, in lieu of orang-utans, the Seloliman Nature Reserve delivers jungle and photogenic rice terraces below a sacred volcano. Some beach time rounds things off nicely. • Best hotels in Bali• Best hostels in Bali Recommended time two weeks For intrepid travellers, tackling Vietnam on two wheels is a rite of passage. But those who don't want to drive motorcycles on the country's challenging roads can do the same journey via the Reunification Express, the train linking Ho Chi Minh City with Hanoi. After slurping pho and visiting markets and museums in frenetic Ho Chi Minh City, travel to Dalat, the cool highland escape encircled by pine forests, lakes and waterfalls. Visit Vietnam's beachy Nha Trang for two days of R&R, then hunker down in Hoi An. The Unesco site enchants travellers with its boutique shops, cooking classes and cultural shows — try to visit during the full moon, when lanterns light up the town and local people stage traditional performances on the river. Nearby Danang might be less majestic, but the rapidly developing city is also a great base, thanks to its abundance of hostels and hotels, beaches, amazing street food scene and craft breweries. Step into the past in Hue, where Nguyen dynasty emperors once ruled. Although Hue suffered significant damage during the war, the imperial city has been carefully restored. Then finish in Hanoi, where centuries-old architecture lines the capital's lanes. Do as the locals: settle into tiny plastic stools for bun cha (grilled pork balls with noodles) and bia hoi, the beloved — and staggeringly cheap — fresh beer. Budget extra (from £30 to £100 per person depending how fancy you want to go) to spend a night on a junk boat among the karst in Ha Long Bay too. Note though that the bucket-list site has been plagued with rubbish for several years; a rowing boat trip in Tam Coc has become a popular alternative for its equally splendid landscapes minus the floating heaps of plastic. For anyone aged 18-39, G Adventures' 18-to-Thirtysomethings range of tours includes a 12-day trip from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi. Riding buses and overnight trains, you'll visit both Nha Trang, Danang and Hue before a drive through Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park's lush mountains and a cruise around spectacular Halong Bay in a traditional sailboat. • Best things to do in Vietnam• Best hotels in Vietnam Recommended time one to two weeks Manila, the capital of the Philippines, is your starting point for this island-hopping adventure. Skip the city's chaotic traffic and make straight for the beach with a one-hour domestic flight to Coron. This island is full of postcard-worthy scenery: limestone cliffs tower above electric-blue waters in Twin Lagoon and sugary sands line Banol beach, where rustic huts hang over the water. Next is El Nido, at the tip of Palawan island, via a four-hour ferry ride from Coron. To explore El Nido, it's mandatory to book one of four island-hopping excursions, labelled A, B, C and D. The most popular, tours A and C, take you to lagoons and hidden beaches, including the can't-miss Big Lagoon and Helicopter Island. Book in advance through a reputable tour operator such as Discover El Nido or Hello El Nido. While you can book these tours privately, group trips are great ways to meet other travellers. Take a bus four hours south to Puerto Princesa and fly to Bohol. The jungle-covered island is best known for its Chocolate Hills — thousands of grassy hills, scattered across 20 sq miles of land, that turn brown in the dry season. Budget five days here to go cliff-diving into turquoise pools with Kawasan Canyoneering; spot the tiny tarsiers at the island sanctuary; and unwind on Panglao, an island with white-sand beaches linked to Bohol by a bridge. If there's time to spare, take the two-hour ferry from Bohol to Siquijor. Meet the island healers who cast off evil spirits with their bolo-bolo rituals, cool down in emerald Cambugahay Falls or explore the 23 coral reef dive sites, before taking one of the regular ferries to Dumaguete City on Negros — a 50-minute trip — and flying back to Manila. As El Nido and Bohol are 300 miles apart, most tours focus on one or the other. Contiki's Ultimate Philippines Island Hopping With Boat Expedition fits in both during a 22-day epic, however, with time for home-cooked meals and floating along an underground river. It concludes with four camping-based nights enabling visits to 15 remote, idyllic islands. • Best beaches in the Philippines Any we've missed? Let us know in the comments
Hindustan Times
02-07-2025
- Hindustan Times
73% non-marine UNESCO sites at severe water risk: WRI report
A new analysis shows 73% of all non-marine UNESCO World Heritage Sites are exposed to at least one severe water risk (water stress, drought, river flooding or coastal flooding), with 21% of sites facing dual problems — having too much water one year, and too little during another. The Taj Mahal faces water scarcity that is increasing pollution and depleting groundwater, the analysis states (PTI) The analysis based on World Resources Institute's Aqueduct data (also a water risk atlas) has flagged that several sites in India are among those experiencing severe risks, including the Taj Mahal, Kaziranga National Park, Western Ghats, Group of Monuments at Mahabalipuram, and the Great Living Chola Temples among others. Around 40% of the UNESCO sites are facing issues related to water stress and drought risk while 33% and 4% respectively face challenges from riverine flood risk and coastal flood risk. 'Sites at risk include global icons such as the Taj Mahal, Angkor, Yellowstone National Park, Mosi-oa-Tunya / Victoria Falls, the Sagarmatha National Park (Mt Everest) and many more. With water stress projected to intensify in many regions, the implications for ecosystems, cultural heritage, and local economies are significant - but solutions are within reach,' the analysis said. For example, WRI's mapping shows Sun Temple in Konark; victorian gothic and art deco ensembles in Mumbai; churches and convents of Goa; Western Ghats etc in India are at extremely high risk of riverine flooding. Drought risk is high for Qutub Minar; Keoladeo national park; Rani ki Vaw stepwell in Gujarat; even Chola temples in Mahabalipuram. 'Water is impacting some of the Earth's most cherished places: The Taj Mahal, for example, faces water scarcity that is increasing pollution and depleting groundwater, both of which are damaging the mausoleum. In 2022, a massive flood closed down all of Yellowstone National Park and cost over $20 million in infrastructure repairs to reopen. Water issues — whether it's drought, scarcity, pollution or flooding — have become a threat to many of the more than 1,200 UNESCO World Heritage Sites,' the analysis states. While the global share of World Heritage Sites exposed to high to extremely high levels of water stress is projected to rise from 40% to 44% by 2050, impacts will be far more severe in regions like the Middle East and North Africa, parts of South Asia and northern China — areas where existing water stress is exacerbated by extensive river regulation, damming and upstream water withdrawals. In these regions, the combined pressures of infrastructure development and climate change pose a significant threat to both natural ecosystems and the cultural heritage they sustain, it adds. Places ranging from the biodiversity-rich Serengeti National Park in Tanzania, to cultural treasures like the sacred city of Chichén Itzá in Mexico, to bustling urban centers like Morocco's Medina of Fez are facing growing water risks. For example, the Ahwar of Southern Iraq is facing acute water stress. In 2016, UNESCO added the Ahwar to the World Heritage list as a mixed site — recognized for both its natural values and cultural legacy. It's one of approximately 470 UNESCO World Heritage Sites facing water scarcity due to issues like pollution and competition for its water resources. Fed by Tigris and Euphrates Rivers, the Ahwar is among the largest inland delta systems on Earth. These sprawling marshes are teeming with life that include millions of migratory birds like the rare Basra Reed Warbler and large wild buffalo that wade through its reed beds. Over the years, upstream dam construction, agricultural water use and periods of political instability including significant drainage of the marshes in the 1990s have reduced the freshwater flowing into the region. As a result, the area remains highly vulnerable during times of drought, the analysis said. WRI water experts have recommended that local authorities restore vital landscapes that support healthy, stable water, invest in nature-based solutions like planting trees to restore headwater forests or revitalizing wetlands to capture flood waters and recharge aquifers. These approaches can build resilience to extreme weather and address multiple water challenges simultaneously. Nationally, countries can enact conservation policies to protect vital landscapes from unsustainable development.
Vogue
19-06-2025
- Vogue
What Traditional Dance Reveals About a Travel Destination
Ultimately, dance is a prism for understanding people. Their resistance, passion, grief, transcendence, and joyful celebration. For those communities willing to share this with visitors (through ceremony or education at cultural centers), don't neglect the opportunity. And if you're asked to join—the only answer is yes. I've been welcomed into a swaying circle of Samburu women, leaped between moving bamboo poles beside the Manggarai, and heel-toed my cowboy boots across a dance hall in Montana—each experience deepening an appreciation for each culture's singular identity (and serving as a humbling reminder I should probably stick to ballet). So, to travelers mapping out their itineraries, take note: every culture has its own form of traditional movement, a few of which are highlighted below. Clear your dance card. Photo: Amansara Khmer (Cambodia) Dotted with temples and surrounded by ancient ruins and sacred mountains, Cambodia is a landscape imbued with spirituality. Travelers checking into Amansara should book the Dance & Devotion experience, which brings guests to the sacred dancers of Angkor Conservatoire. Here, classic Khmer dance is preserved in its native form (not a performance, but a spiritual offering) and guests have the opportunity to watch both rehearsals and the basrei ceremony. Afterward, a master teacher guides guests through a few hand movements and storytelling techniques. Viennese Waltz (Austria) Experience the glittering glamour of Viennese waltz during the city's Ball Season, which runs from November through April. During this time, Austria's gilded capital hosts over 400 balls that evoke its imperial past (particularly the Opera Ball that is held in the most beautiful ballroom in the world: the Vienna State Opera). Guests staying at Almanac Palais Vienna can book their Night at the Ball package, which includes a private dance lesson, couture gown, and horse-drawn carriage to the ball (with a limousine return at the end of the night, plus an in-room breakfast and spa treatment the following morning). Legong (Bali) Hinduism's cultural influence sweeps across all aspects of life on the island of Bali, especially through expressions like traditional dance. There are several styles that visitors can observe—from the Kecak 'fire dance' to the Barong and Kris 'dagger dance'—but definitely don't miss out on Legong while on the island. With its vibrant facial expressions and complex finger and foot movements, the story of a king who finds a lost maiden is colorfully brought to life. If you're eager to dive deeper into meaning behind these intricate movements, take a Balinese dance lesson at Hoshinoya Bali, held in a gazebo overlooking the jungle. Tango (Argentina) Argentina and Uruguay have long sparred over who invented tango, but if you find yourself in the former, book an experience with Untamed Traveling to experience the authenticity of Argentine Tango. Activities can range from lessons to an overnight stay in a tango hotel in San Telmo (the oldest neighborhood in Argentina). If educational tourism is your love language, they can even take you to a lecture about the history of the tango, followed up by a visit to a milonga where locals go dancing. Bon Odori (Japan) Japan is home to hundreds of styles of traditional dance, from Kabuki's dramatic theater sequences to the Geisha's graceful Kyomai movements. For travelers looking for an authentic, immersive dance experience, the Gujo Odori Festival in the Gifu prefecture lasts from July to September. This dance festival takes place during the obon period when the Japanese honor ancestral spirits, and there are ten recognized dances (which you're encouraged to learn on the spot from your neighbor). Even better: many attendees opt to wear yukata kimonos and elevated wooden sandals called geta. Sau Sau (Rapa Nui) Rapa Nui (also known as Easter Island) is the southernmost point of Oceania's Polynesia Triangle. Its rich culture and heritage is celebrated at Nayara Hangaroa (a luxury hotel owned by a local family) where guests of the property are invited to learn about the traditional dress, and can see expressions of the Haka'Ara Tupana dance group two times a week during peak season. One of the most common styles of dance is the Sau Sau; a joyful rocking of the arms and hips with dancers in skirts crafted from feathers or grasses. Sema (Türkiye) This enigmatic dance, practiced by members of the Mevlevi Order of Sufi Muslims known as 'whirling dervishes,' dates back to the 13th century and the teachings of the poet and mystic Rumi. Often called a 'moving meditation,' the ritual (known as the sema) features dancers in tall hats and flowing white robes spinning in circles to reach a state of spiritual transcendence. The dance represents a journey of shedding the ego and connecting with the divine, and it requires months of dedicated practice to learn. Travelers can observe these sema ceremonies at destinations like the Mevlana Cultural Center in Konya or the Galata Mevlevihanesi Museum in Istanbul, which has ceremonies every Sunday at 6 p.m. Caci (Flores) This ritual whip fight is integral to the Manggarai's cultural identity on the Indonesian island of Flores. The energetic dance is held between two male fighters who take turns attacking and defending. The attacker uses a whip, while the defender uses a round shield made of buffalo hide. Caci is accompanied by chanting and drumming and the fights are ceremonial, not intended to be violent. Guests staying at the newly opened Ta'aktana, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa in Labuan Bajo can discover Caci every Thursday at the property's amphitheater, or they can arrange an off-site dance excursion as well.
Telegraph
27-04-2025
- Telegraph
A cruise is the easy way to tick off your Asia bucket list
One day you're serenely sipping a White Lotus cocktail in the cool Bamboo bar of the Mandarin Oriental hotel in Bangkok, the next you're munching Cambodian fried spiders at a bustling city market in Sihanoukville. A day or so later in Vietnam, you take in the riot of colour, noise and traffic that is Ho Chi Minh City before enjoying the tranquil, otherworldly Ha Long Bay. Next you're off to Hong Kong to savour plates of steaming dim sum and marvel at the city's high-rise skyline. Add to this such tourist must-sees as Thailand's reclining golden Buddha, Cambodia's Angkor temples, Vietnam's Cu Chi war tunnels and more, and one thing is certain: your postcards home are going to be truly epic. It may sound like a classic backpacker's trip (perhaps minus the pricey cocktail), but if you prefer luxury every step of the way and everything organised for you, a cruise (in this case, Viking Cruises' Southeast Asia and Hong Kong itinerary) lets you tick off your bucket list in style. Instead of schlepping through airports, packing and unpacking umpteen times and negotiating maps and timetables, a cruise does it all for you. Unpack once and relax while you sail to your next adventure. I opted to begin with a two-night pre-cruise extension at the swanky Shangri-La hotel in the heart of Bangkok. A panoramic guided tour of the city whisked our group to the Grand Palace and the venerated Temple of the Emerald Buddha, which houses a 66cm-tall jade statue that's treated to seasonal costume changes of gold and fine jewels. Another highlight is the nearby Wat Pho Buddhist temple complex, where the tink-tink sound of coins dropping into metal blessing bowls creates the perfect backdrop for viewing its majestic 46m-long solid gold reclining Buddha. Elsewhere, modern Bangkok is awash with shops selling gold jewellery, 'genuine fake' handbag stores, street food that is by turns appetising and challenging, and incredible rooftop bars to take in the Thai sunsets. The next day we escaped the hubbub of the city and drove an hour into the countryside to the lush Suphattra Land fruit farm in the Rayong province, where we breakfasted on honey straight from the comb and fresh coconut, snake fruit, jackfruit, mangosteen and durian. Mangosteen is said to be the queen of fruit in Asia, and the mighty durian the king. The spiky rugby ball-sized fruit's creamy, custard-like flesh is known for tasting like heaven, but smelling like hell. Luckily perhaps, it wasn't quite ripe enough on our April visit to confirm one way or another. Settling into the beautiful Viking Venus, classed as a small ship with 930 passengers, it was time to set sail and enjoy the premium facilities which include a gorgeous Nordic spa (incongruously Scandi while in Asia), guest lectures and destination-inspired cuisine and entertainment. The morning after departing Bangkok, we arrive at the Cambodian coastal city of Sihanoukville, home to the ornate Wat Krom temple, nestled on a hilltop overlooking the Gulf of Thailand, and the colourful Phsar Leu market, where sacks of fried insects are sold alongside fruit, rice and spices, plus piles of fake money to be burned as offerings at family graves. With several other excursions available, including trips to the Ream National Park with its coastal mangroves and, further afield, the Angkor temples and capital city Phnom Penh, our cruise unlocked no end of wanderlust potential. Next up, Vietnam. Half a century after the end of the Vietnam War, the country has emerged as one of Asia's most popular holiday destinations. And it's not hard to see why. A day in the frenetic Ho Chi Minh City – still widely called Saigon – offered a crash course in Vietnamese city life. Visiting a few weeks before the 50th anniversary of the country's reunification, it felt like everybody was gearing up for the celebrations. Every hour of the day felt like rush hour: parents and three children on one scooter; countless others loaded down with boxes of provisions; horns blaring, police officers blowing whistles. It was watch-through-your-fingers action at every set of traffic lights. With around 9.5 million inhabitants and an estimated 7.3 million motorbikes in Ho Chi Minh City, this is the time when you really appreciate your savvy tour guide. Later, at the Cu Chi war tunnels, 45km northwest of Ho Chi Minh City, we explored the underground system used by Viet Cong soldiers during the war. A distinct hush fell as we were guided around some of the access points to the immense jungle network, which once spanned around 250km. With no natural light and little ventilation, crawling down into the shallow, claustrophobic spaces offered a sobering glimpse into the conflict. Ho Chi Minh City's War Remnants Museum provided further harrowing insight into the war, and we rounded off the day with a welcome pit stop at the bar of the iconic Rex hotel, once a popular hangout for US reporters covering the Vietnam War. A day in the northeast of the country soaking up the delights of the Unesco-listed Ha Long Bay was the perfect way to decompress and complete the Vietnamese section of our cruise. Boarding an authentic junk is the best way to experience this aquamarine lagoon of around 2,000 limestone islands, thought to have been formed by tectonic activity more than 250 million years ago. Legend tells that Ha Long Bay was created when dragons breathed jewels into the sea leaving towering cliffs and sculptural rock formations. Then it was on to Hong Kong, where the Viking Venus docked overnight to allow us to experience every hour of this extraordinary city. We arrived at dawn and moored next to the famous Star ferry terminal, the perfect location to easily reach Victoria Peak, home to Asia's first funicular, and Aberdeen, a curious mix of the traditional and the ultra-modern where sampan boats putter around next to oligarchs' mega yachts. At Hong Kong Island we enjoyed wonderful dim sum at the legendary Maxim's Palace, incongruously housed in the municipal City Hall Building, before later settling down to dinner and enjoying the renowned light-and-sound show which illuminates the island skyline every night at 8pm. The 15-day itinerary had it all: ancient temples and ultra-modern architecture; urban commotion and rural relaxation; enrichment and indulgence. It's extraordinary how much you can pack into a relatively short time – and on a cruise, it's plain sailing. Essentials Nicole Carmichael was a guest of Viking Cruises (0800 319 66 69). The 15-day Southeast Asia and Hong Kong itinerary costs from £6,393pp, including return flights from selected UK airports and all onboard meals, plus wine, beer and soft drinks with lunch and dinner. The package includes six guided tours, gratuities, access to the ship's Nordic spa, evening entertainment and enrichment talks. (Price based on an October 30-November 13 2026 sailing). The Southeast Asia and Hong Kong pre-cruise extension costs from £799pp, including two nights in a Bangkok hotel, guided tour, services of a Viking host and all transfers. Departing selected dates from April-October 2025.
.jpg%3Ftrim%3D0%2C0%2C0%2C0%26width%3D1200%26height%3D800%26crop%3D1200%3A800&w=3840&q=100)
The Independent
24-03-2025
- The Independent
Cambodia's Siem Reap is the gateway to ancient Angkor – here's how to get the best out of your trip
Bigger than Greater Glasgow and decked in detailed bas-reliefs, the Unesco -venerated temples of Angkor in Cambodia 's second-largest city of Siem Reap are an outlier of sorts when it comes to tourist attractions: I'd be willing to bet that no one leaves this world wonder underwhelmed or disappointed. Jaws will drop, eyes will not be believed and awe will be inspired. Whatever you're imagining, it's bigger and better – and well deserving of its place adorning Cambodia's national flag. Home to the jungle-swallowed ruins of the 9th- to 15th-century capital cities of the Khmer Empire, the Angkor Archaeological Park has been on my to-visit list since I found out it existed – more so after watching 2001 film Lara Croft: Tomb Raider, which propelled annual visitor numbers from the thousands into the millions Lately, there has been another (albeit slower) surge in tourism thanks to a new airport, relocated from its original location near Angkor (vibrations weren't good for the ruins). New flights and increased frequency – especially from regional high-traffic destinations like Bangkok – make Siem Reap an easy addition onto an Asian itinerary, which is exactly what I did on a recent trip to Singapore, just a short two-hour flight away. With only a few days to spare, I immediately enlisted on-the-ground travel experts Unforgettable Travel Company to make the most of my time. As with most visitors, my trip centred around a visit to Angkor, starting with Angkor Wat, the most famous of the thousands of temples that span the 400sq kilometre area. 'The locals have always known this was here, but the French came and wrote books about it and made it world famous,' says my local guide Nivath, born and raised in Siem Reap, as we walk in the predawn darkness towards the moated, 12th-century Angkor Wat. I can only just barely make out its lotus-bud-like towers against the navy clouds. Many visitors come at dawn to beat the heat and watch the sun rise, and as I wait for the sky to lighten into a watercolour of pinks and purples, we explore the gopura (entry gate) in the glow of a camera phone torch. Nivath shows me the bas-relief of the apsara 'heavenly dancers' expertly carved into the colossal bricks of sandstone, before taking me to the Buddha statues, shaded under golden parasols and draped in a saffron-hued sarong. While Angkor Wat was originally a Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu, Cambodia is now mainly Buddhist. Some visitors may not realise Angkor is the largest religious site in the world, still home to several working monasteries. 'Many Cambodians come for religious reasons, as well as for tourism,' Nivath says. As such, there's a requirement to dress modestly, with no bare shoulders or legs, meaning your Lara Croft skin-tight getup must be left at home. Wearing trainers or flat boots is also advisable because of the uneven ground and lots of steps (often supported with raised wooden platforms to preserve the stone). After a dazzling sunrise, we spend over an hour examining Angkor Wat's long decorative corridors, steep stairs and hidden nooks guarded by stone statues of Khmer lions and serpent-like naga. Next, we head to the two other major must-see temples: Ta Prohm, also known as 'the Tomb Raider temple', engulfed octopus-like in the creeping roots of the silvery sponge trees; and Bayon Temple, famed for its serene four-sided faces representing the Buddhist principle of the four sublime states of mind. While all three of these major temples are busy, they're not overwhelmed with crowds, and it's easy to steal away and find a peaceful spot. One of my most potent memories is picking my way through a packed breakfast at the tumbledown Ta Nei temple, listening to the call of the Indochinese barbets and chattering green parakeets in the strangler fig trees overhead. Another quiet site is Neak Pean. Nivath seems to know all the best spots, and if he ever wanted a break from guiding, he'd make a good art director, as he also knows all the best angles. One day at Angkor is enough to see the trio of blockbuster temples plus a few hidden gems (especially as we have a car to get around the massive complex), but given another day, I'd opt to explore by mountain bike, which is also possible. Most hotels will arrange a packed breakfast for those heading out to Angkor at dawn, and my hotel, the historic, palm-lined grand dame Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor, does a magnificent job with a flask brimming with steaming coffee, pink guava juice, and flaky rambutan pastries and lotus-paste buns, all charmingly packed in a leather-trimmed white canvas backpack(Nivath's tip: don't carry any food in plastic bags, as it attracts the very cheeky macaque monkeys). Beyond Angkor, there are other temples to explore. Nivath recommends Banteay Srei or the citadel of the women, where the 'stones are pink and the carvings are even more detailed.' It's an easy stop en route to the waterfalls of Phnom Kulen, which Nivath also recommends. Another popular activity is to visit the floating villages of Tonlé Sap, the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia (Unforgettable Travel Company can arrange all of this). After playing at Indiana Jones all morning, I spend the searingly hot afternoon back at my hotel. There's nothing more divine than lying out by the palatial pool, dressed in one of Raffles' cream striped satin dressing gowns. The building dates back to 1932, the French colonial Indochine period, and it was the first luxury hotel of its kind in the city, still housing an original wrought-iron lift in the lobby. It very much still maintains the air of a vintage reverie: iridescent dragonflies flit around the pool like jewel brooches come to life; white frangipanis blossoms scent the air; and straw-hatted staff fetch dewy G&Ts fashioned with Herbal Kulen gin, made in a nearby botanical farm that is open for visits. If you need more convincing, it's one of Angelina Jolie's hotels of choice according to Nivath. There's also a make-your-own mimosa bar at breakfast with Charles Mignon champagne if that hasn't swung it. Evenings at the hotel are marked by live piano melodies and cocktail-hour Grand d'Angkor slings, a riff on the Singapore sling made here with gin, pandan and galangal syrup, plus cherry brandy, lime juice and pineapple juice. Set across from the Royal Residence (home to the king when he visits), the location couldn't be better, and it's only a 10-minute drive to Angkor. I spend my still-warm evenings exploring Siem Reap, which feels more like a town, set along the unmoving, mirror glass river and strung with monasteries and street food hawkers. Nivath takes me to 60 Road night market where we eat Khmer sweets like pumpkin custard and palm sugar glutinous rice balls. Some sell fried insects: glistening crickets, plump larvae and crispy tarantulas with abdomens the size of ping-pong balls. 'It's Cambodian KFC', Nivath jokes, though he also takes the time to explain how the practice was driven by wartime poverty and famine created by the Khmer Rouge regime of the late 1970s. Visitors can learn more about this ghastly history at the Landmine Museum. After the night market, the food keeps coming at the partying spot of Pub Street, in the city's Old French Quarter. Lined in balconied colonial buildings and hanging neon lanterns in primary colours, western tourists eat fried ice cream and get fish pedicures. Music pumps from every direction, while tuk tuks weave through the crowds. Nivath takes me to the Asana Old Wooden House, for hip Khmer tipples served in an original stilted wooden house dating back to the 1960s – the last traditional house in this district. Our final bite of the night is at Khmer Kitchen for amok, Cambodia's national dish of fish coconut curry, made here with freshwater snakehead fish and best paired with an icy draft of Angkor Beer for just $1 (prices are typically listed in US dollars or Cambodian riel, as both are accepted). The food is mind-bogglingly affordable but also delicious. I have the best herb-stuffed fresh spring roll of my life at the treehouse-like Chanrey Tree (stop by their spa next door, Sokkhak, for a killer massage). And I delight in the tasting menu of haute Khmer cuisine at Embassy, an all-female kitchen where the nine-course set menu costs just $54 (£42). While Cambodian food isn't as well-known around the world as the cuisines of neighbouring Thailand or Vietnam, it emphatically deserves to be. The same can be said for the country as a whole. How to do it Unforgettable Travel Company offers private tours of Cambodia from £2,600 per person, with seven nights' accommodation, daily breakfast, some additional lunches and dinners, private tours and transport throughout with English-speaking guides and private drivers, plus all entrance fees and permits. With the opening of the new airport in October 2023, there has been an increase in new airlines and flight frequencies for direct regional flights from nearby Asian hubs like Singapore, Bangkok, Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Seoul, Kuala Lumpur, and the Cambodian capital Phnom Penh. More direct regional routes are slated to arrive via IndiaGo. There are no direct flights from the UK Bangkok, and Hanoi). Emirates has recently announced it will be flying to Siem Reap via Dubai from June 2025, and Etihad and Turkish Airlines are also due to start flying to the city.
