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Irish Times
7 days ago
- Irish Times
The best restaurants around Ireland worth travelling to
Adrift Dunmore House Hotel, Dunmore, Clonakilty, Co Cork; 023-8833352, Dunmore House, a little piece of heaven overlooking Clonakilty Bay The Barrett family of Dunmore House Hotel know more than a thing or two about hospitality. Over the years, they have consistently developed and improved their little piece of heaven overlooking Clonakilty Bay. Under head chef Manuel Canapini, Adrift has become a contender for the country's top seafood spots – trawler to table. Joanne Cronin Aniar 53 Dominick Street Lower, Galway; 091-535947, Aniar has a new-look interior. Photograph: Anita Murphy It was all change last year at Aniar when owner JP McMahon commissioned architect Aidan Conway to create a new interior for this iconic Galway restaurant. Out went the lighter greens and neutral tones, making way for a darkened interior with dramatic focused lighting. It makes sense though, acting as a focus for McMahon's dishes which have evolved into an intense, almost primal, expression of the west of Ireland. JC Baba'de The Mews, Baltimore, Co Cork; 028-48112, Baba'de may be the little sibling to Michelin-starred Dede, but this charming little spot is standing firmly on its own two feet. Under chef Muslim Karafil, savour fragrant delights such as charcoal grilled chicken thighs with hazelnut satay sauce, spiced crispy chicken with brown butter dip, or a whole west Cork blue lobster with pil pil potato mousseline. Or come for Turkish-influenced brunch on weekends. JC Ballyfin Demesne Ballyfin, Co Laois; 057-8755866, Ballyfin Demesne head chef Richard Picard-Edwards. Photograph: Alan Betson/The Irish Times At Ballyfin – a hotel so exclusive it barely seems real – Richard Picard-Edwards has delivered the final flourish: a Michelin star for the diningroom. The €145 eight-course tasting menu is on the familiar side of grandeur, with a thrillingly good Jerusalem artichoke cream topped with chicken jelly and gold leaf, and dishes featuring lobster and caviar. Broths, purées and reductions bring depth without being overwrought. Non-residents can book, but getting a table feels about as casual as applying for citizenship. Read our full review here . Corinna Hardgrave READ MORE Bramley 10 Main Street, Abbeyleix, Co Laois; 057-8757749, Bramley, Abbeyleix: Sharp, confident cooking built on serious pedigree Sam and Emily Moody's fine-dining spot in Abbeyleix turns out sharp, confident cooking built on serious pedigree – Sam cooked at Ballyfin and Bath Priory – and produce from their own walled garden. The lunch menu and midweek Supper at Six are great value, but it's at dinner that the kitchen really hits its stride, with a la carte and tasting menus (€80) delivering dishes like seared scallops, honey-glazed quail with leek emulsion, pan-fried wild halibut with mussels, and slow-roast organic duck. Read our full review here . CH George V at Ashford Castle Ashford Castle, Cong, Co Mayo; 094-9546003, Ashford Castle's George V diningroom. Photograph: Helen Cathcart The dark wood panelling of Ashford Castle's George V diningroom might scream old-school but under executive head chef Liam Finnegan the food has taken a fresher turn. French-rooted, yes, but lighter, with sauces built on serious stocks rather than just butter and cream. Much of the produce now comes from a new two-acre kitchen garden, run by head gardener Alex Lavarde using no-dig methods and supplying everything from beets to honey. The twice-baked Hegarty's cheese soufflé is a must; the wine cellar, as always, is formidable. CH Homestead Cottage Lough North, Doolin, Co Clare; 065-6794133, The Michelin-starred Homestead Cottage in Doolin. Photograph: Brian Arthur It's not every day a stone-walled cottage on the wild west coast lands a Michelin star, but Robbie McCauley's precise cooking makes it feel inevitable. Along with his wife Sophie, he has transformed this former cafe into something rooted in tradition but unmistakably modern, serving a nine-course dinner (€125) and six-course lunch (€85). McCauley works tightly with local producers, using Burren outwintered beef, and lobster and crab from Michael O'Connell, they raise their own chickens and have an impressive vegetable garden. There's even a small terrace for pre-dinner drinks – if the weather behaves. Read our full review here . CH Landline at The Park Hotel Kenmare Shelbourne Street, Kenmare, Co Kerry; 064-6641200, Landline at The Park Hotel Kenmare in Co Kerry, where chef James O'Sullivan keeps things classic but special. Photograph: Sarah Kate Murphy When Bryan Meehan – the Irish entrepreneur behind Blue Bottle Coffee – bought The Park Hotel from the Brennan brothers last year, two things changed in the diningroom. The tasting menu was dropped in favour of a focused a la carte, and Meehan hung two Sean Scully paintings – one of which gives the room its name, The Landline. Local chef James O'Sullivan keeps things classic but special with seared scallops, Kerry Hill lamb, and pan-seared sole. Non-residents can book. CH Liath Blackrock Market, 19a Main Street, Blackrock, Co Dublin; 085-1278680, Liath owner and head chef Damien Grey. Photograph Nick Bradshaw/The Irish Times One of Dublin's smallest restaurants and one of its mightiest, Liath is an intimate space where food is staged as art. Damien Grey and team perform manoeuvres with grace through service in the fully open kitchen, allowing guests to see the artists at work. Grey is looking to move to a larger space, so make sure to get a booking at Blackrock market before they leave. JC Lir The Marina, Coleraine, Co Derry; +44 78-28127739, Lir restaurant in Coleraine. Photograph: Arthur Allison/Pacemaker Chef Stevie McCarry recently won the Northern Ireland final of the Great British Menu, a well-earned accolade for this self-taught chef. With wife Rebekah, he has developed Lir into a truly exciting seafood restaurant. The Japanese konro grill is put to good use in the kitchen which turns out cod collar schnitzel, ling kofta with burnt apple sauce and smoked dogfish corndog. Look out for the upcoming summer music nights on the terrace. Read our full review here . JC Paradiso 16 Lancaster Quay, Cork; 021-4277939, Denis Cotter, owner and executive chef of Paradiso. Photograph: Ruth Calder-Potts After more than 30 years in business, Denis Cotter is planning his transition away from his legendary fine-dining vegetarian restaurant. Long-term restaurant manager Dave O'Mahony is in line to take over, with head chef Miguel Frutos continuing to lead the kitchen into the future. With produce grown in a unique partnership with Gort na Náin farm and a super natural wine menu, Paradiso continues to set the standard. Read our full review here . JC Rare 3-4 Pearse Street, Kinsale, Co Cork; 021-4772209, Rare executive head chef Meeran Manzoor. Photograph: Miki Barlok There isn't another restaurant quite like Rare. Drawing on his classical French training, chef Meeran Manzoor has invented a cuisine that is all his own, using the best of local produce accented with flavours from his home city of Chennai. His menu descriptions may sound simple but they belie a complexity of spice and nuanced technique that is simply delightful. JC Restaurant Chestnut The Chestnut Tree, Staball Hill, Ballydehob, Co Cork; 028-25766, Restaurant Chestnut: Exacting, mature and restrained cooking Rob Krawczyk and Elaine Fleming's Michelin-starred Chestnut offers three routes – a €55 two-course prix fixe, a four-course for €75 or the full €120 tasting menu. Ingredients are local and fiercely seasonal – Lisheen Greens, Twomey's butchers, Union Hall fish – with much of it cooked over a custom wood-fired grill. Expect wild halibut with mussels or aged Skeaghanore duck with coal onion and sour cherries. His food is exacting, mature and restrained – one of the country's top chefs. CH The Dining Room at Gregan's Castle Gregan's Castle Hotel, Ballyvaughan, Co Clare; 065-7077005, Chef Jonathan Farrell, Gregans Castle Hotel. Photograph: Eamon Ward Sitting in a little glen outside Ballyvaughan, Gregans Castle is the quirky but extremely stylish countryside hotel of dreams. Chef Jonathan Farrell moved from Dublin to take over the kitchens and is producing food perfectly harmonised with the stunning landscapes. Choose from dishes such as wild garlic spaetzle, Atlantic scallop with XO, butter-poached cod, roast rack of Burren lamb or forced rhubarb direct from the hotel garden. Read our full review here . JC The Olde Glen Glen Village, Carrigart, Co Donegal; 083-1585777, The Olde Glen bar and restaurant, Co Donegal The Olde Glen bar would have a serious chance in any 'Ireland's most traditional pub' competition, and is worth a visit in its own right. But it's the cooking of Ciaran Sweeney to the rear of the pub that brings the punters in night after night. The menu is packed with local produce including roast Mulroy Bay scallops, fermented potato bread with Gortahork cabbage and glazed Killybegs cod. JC The Owenmore Restaurant at Ballynahinch Castle Recess, Connemara, Co Galway; 095-31006, The Owenmore Restaurant, Ballynahinch Castle, Co Galway Former Michelin star chef Danni Barry keeps things razor sharp at the Owenmore Restaurant, with a four-course table d'hote menu (€95) that lets the ingredients do the talking. Kilkeel scallops with caramelised kohlrabi, line-caught mackerel with blood orange and horseradish, barbecued quail with soy and honey, and wild sea bass with salt-baked celeriac are cooked with precision. Bookings are available for non-residents. CH

RNZ News
21-05-2025
- Sport
- RNZ News
All Blacks watch: who makes the first squad of the year
Photo: RNZ Analysis - We're about six weeks out from the All Blacks taking the field for their first test of the year, so it's time to cast an eye over who will be named in Scott Robertson's 36-man squad on 23 June. While Super Rugby Pacific is still yet to finish, we've had enough of a look at the form of everyone to start making some calls - although there will always be room for a surprise or two. While Robertson was critiqued somewhat due to his initially conservative selections for the test matches against England, it is worth remembering that he also made big calls on players like Wallace Sititi. Billy Proctor and Pasilio Tosi. So how is everyone looking so far as Robertson starts to ink in names for the three test series against France? Ardie Savea and Wallace Sititi of the All Blacks with the Bledisloe Cup. Photo: Photosport / James Gourley Ardie Savea, Scott Barrett, Jordie Barrett, Beauden Barrett, Tyrel Lomax, Tamaiti Williams, Codie Taylor, Patrick Tuipulotu, Cam Roigard, Damian McKenzie, Wallace Sititi, Tupou Vaa'i Savea's form makes him the easiest to pick All Black since Richie McCaw, while the Barrett family is obviously essential despite Jordie's recent sojourn. No surprise that the entire starting tight five plus Tuipulotu is in this category as well. Caleb Clarke of New Zealand. New Zealand All Blacks v Australia Wallabies, Bledisloe Cup and Rugby Championship rugby union test match at Sky Stadium, Wellington, New Zealand on Saturday 28 September 2024. © Photo: Andrew Cornaga / Photosport Photo: Andrew Cornaga/ Caleb Clarke, Fletcher Newell, Pasilio Tosi, Peter Lakai, Noah Hotham, Luke Jacobson, Asafo Aumua, David Havili Despite the Blues' woes, Clarke has established himself as the All Blacks' prime strike weapon. Newell and Tosi retain their propping rotation spots, while Hotham is likely the next cab off the rank behind Roigard. Jacobson has a decent case to be starting at blindside if that's the positional mix preferred, while Lakai can cover both Sititi and Savea. Aumua gets in this category with a bit of luck as while he's been relatively quiet in Super Rugby, there is only one other hooker putting his hand up - plus his form last year for the All Blacks was outstanding. Havili's utility and now leadership experience counts in his favour, as well as being one of Robertson's Crusaders stalwarts. Quinn Tupaea of the Chiefs scores. Photo: Jeremy Ward/Photosport Quinn Tupaea, Du'Plessis Kirifi, Fabian Holland, Xavier Numia, Ruben Love, Billy Proctor, Emoni Narawa, David Havili, Ioane Moananu, Jacob Ratumaitavuki-Kneepkens, Chay Fihaki Tupaea's comeback is a heartwarming one, with the midfielder making every post a winner since returning from an exceptionally cruel injury. Kirifi and his work rate look to be the most like-for-like replacement for Sam Cane, while Holland probably just has to make sure he stays fit to join the tall timber stocks since Sam Darry is injured. Moananu doesn't really fall into the bolter category as he's been the best hooker in the country during Taylor's managed Crusaders absence, meanwhile Ratumaitavuki-Kneepkens is a very sound option under the high ball to cover the back three. Fihaki's place on the depth chart has already been established with his inclusion in the wider squad last year. Moana Pasifika loose forward Semisi Tupou Ta'eiloa during the Super Rugby Pacific v the Blues at Eden Park on Saturday, 12 April 2025. Photo: Brett Phibbs / Semisi Tupou-Ta'eiloa, Kyle Preston, Leroy Carter, Josh Fusitu'a The expected 36-man squad leaves room for more of a prop rotation, so there's room to make a Tosi-like selection with the impressive Fusitu'a a serious option. Preston appears to have all the attributes for test rugby already, while Carter is simply young, very fast and has clearly been brought back from the Sevens programme for a reason. Tupou-Ta'eiloa is an interesting one though. Last year Robertson overlooked the big, bruising form of Hoskins Sotutu but may be inclined to carry an extra-high calibre cannon this season just in case. However, if the Otago Boys High product is the All Blacks' plans, it will raise a complicated conversation about just what Moana Pasifika's ultimate purpose is. Ethan De Groot of New Zealand dejected after loss to Argentina. 2024. Photo: PHOTOSPORT Ethan de Groot, Sevu Reece, Dalton Papali'i, Timoci Tavatavanawai, Folau Fakatava, Cortez Ratima, Finlay Christie, Rieko Ioane, Asafo Aumua, Samisoni Taukei'aho, Mark Tele'a Bit harsh on Papali'i here as he's been one of the more consistent players in a poor Blues team, but this is more about how he fits into a loose forward mix that will now be anchored by Savea and Sititi. Tavatavanawai started this year so strong many were keen to name him in the All Blacks in March, but has cooled off along with the Highlanders' fortunes. Ratima's inconsistency last year and inability to hold down a starting spot at the Chiefs counts against him, however the halfback mix is still open. Ditto the hooker situation - Taukei'aho had been injured for a long, long time and has failed to hold down a regular starting place since his return. Ioane will almost certainly be picked, however will need to play a major role in this July series to regain the public's favour and hang on to the 13 jersey. Reece may well pay for the drop off in form at the end of last year, though, while de Groot's place in the starting team has been well and truly claimed by Williams. The big question now is whether his test career will suffer the same fate. Tele'a's impending move to Japan theoretically should rule him out of selection, but it's worth noting that didn't stop Robertson selecting Sam Cane and TJ Perenara for all of last season. An injured Sam Darry during a Blues Super Rugby training session Photo: Andrew Cornaga/ Will Jordan, Anton Lienert-Brown, Caleb Tangitau, Ethan Blackadder, Sam Darry, Brayden Iose As soon as he's passed fit, Jordan goes straight into the shoo-in category. Lienert-Brown's broken collarbone means he will likely miss the start of the test season at least, while Blackadder's ongoing injury issues have unfortunately meant having him on the field at all is more of a bonus than anything to plan around. Tangitau was the best winger in Super Rugby Pacific at the start of the season, even if he does make it back to fitness it's fair to say he's been overtaken by others in his absence.