The best restaurants around Ireland worth travelling to
Dunmore House Hotel, Dunmore, Clonakilty, Co Cork; 023-8833352,
dunmorehousehotel.ie
Dunmore House, a little piece of heaven overlooking Clonakilty Bay
The Barrett family of Dunmore House Hotel know more than a thing or two about hospitality. Over the years, they have consistently developed and improved their little piece of heaven overlooking
Clonakilty
Bay. Under head chef Manuel Canapini, Adrift has become a contender for the country's top seafood spots – trawler to table.
Joanne Cronin
Aniar
53 Dominick Street Lower, Galway; 091-535947,
aniarrestaurant.ie
Aniar has a new-look interior. Photograph: Anita Murphy
It was all change last year at Aniar when owner
JP McMahon
commissioned architect Aidan Conway to create a new interior for this iconic
Galway
restaurant. Out went the lighter greens and neutral tones, making way for a darkened interior with dramatic focused lighting. It makes sense though, acting as a focus for McMahon's dishes which have evolved into an intense, almost primal, expression of the west of Ireland.
JC
Baba'de
The Mews, Baltimore, Co Cork; 028-48112,
babade.ie
Baba'de may be the little sibling to
Michelin-starred
Dede, but this charming little spot is standing firmly on its own two feet. Under chef Muslim Karafil, savour fragrant delights such as charcoal grilled chicken thighs with hazelnut satay sauce, spiced crispy chicken with brown butter dip, or a whole west Cork blue lobster with pil pil potato mousseline. Or come for Turkish-influenced brunch on weekends.
JC
Ballyfin Demesne
Ballyfin, Co Laois; 057-8755866,
ballyfin.com
Ballyfin Demesne head chef Richard Picard-Edwards. Photograph: Alan Betson/The Irish Times
At Ballyfin – a hotel so exclusive it barely seems real – Richard Picard-Edwards has delivered the final flourish: a Michelin star for the diningroom. The €145 eight-course tasting menu is on the familiar side of grandeur, with a thrillingly good Jerusalem artichoke cream topped with chicken jelly and gold leaf, and dishes featuring lobster and caviar. Broths, purées and reductions bring depth without being overwrought. Non-residents can book, but getting a table feels about as casual as applying for citizenship.
Read our full review
here
.
Corinna Hardgrave
READ MORE
Bramley
10 Main Street, Abbeyleix, Co Laois; 057-8757749,
bramleyabbeyleix.com
Bramley, Abbeyleix: Sharp, confident cooking built on serious pedigree
Sam and Emily Moody's fine-dining spot in Abbeyleix turns out sharp, confident cooking built on serious pedigree – Sam cooked at Ballyfin and Bath Priory – and produce from their own walled garden. The lunch menu and midweek Supper at Six are great value, but it's at dinner that the kitchen really hits its stride, with a la carte and tasting menus (€80) delivering dishes like seared scallops, honey-glazed quail with leek emulsion, pan-fried wild halibut with mussels, and slow-roast organic duck.
Read our full review
here
.
CH
George V at Ashford Castle
Ashford Castle, Cong, Co Mayo; 094-9546003,
ashfordcastle.com
Ashford Castle's George V diningroom. Photograph: Helen Cathcart
The dark wood panelling of Ashford Castle's George V diningroom might scream old-school but under executive head chef Liam Finnegan the food has taken a fresher turn. French-rooted, yes, but lighter, with sauces built on serious stocks rather than just butter and cream. Much of the produce now comes from a new two-acre kitchen garden, run by head gardener Alex Lavarde using no-dig methods and supplying everything from beets to honey. The twice-baked Hegarty's cheese soufflé is a must; the wine cellar, as always, is formidable.
CH
Homestead Cottage
Lough North, Doolin, Co Clare; 065-6794133,
homesteadcottagedoolin.com
The Michelin-starred Homestead Cottage in Doolin.
Photograph: Brian Arthur
It's not every day a stone-walled cottage on the wild west coast lands a Michelin star, but Robbie McCauley's precise cooking makes it feel inevitable. Along with his wife Sophie, he has transformed this former cafe into something rooted in tradition but unmistakably modern, serving a nine-course dinner (€125) and six-course lunch (€85). McCauley works tightly with local producers, using Burren outwintered beef, and lobster and crab from Michael O'Connell, they raise their own chickens and have an impressive vegetable garden. There's even a small terrace for pre-dinner drinks – if the weather behaves.
Read our full review
here
.
CH
Landline at The Park Hotel Kenmare
Shelbourne Street, Kenmare, Co Kerry; 064-6641200,
parkkenmare.com/dining/landline
Landline at The Park Hotel Kenmare in Co Kerry, where chef James O'Sullivan keeps things classic but special. Photograph: Sarah Kate Murphy
When Bryan Meehan – the Irish entrepreneur behind Blue Bottle Coffee – bought The Park Hotel from the Brennan brothers last year, two things changed in the diningroom. The tasting menu was dropped in favour of a focused a la carte, and Meehan hung two Sean Scully paintings – one of which gives the room its name, The Landline. Local chef James O'Sullivan keeps things classic but special with seared scallops, Kerry Hill lamb, and pan-seared sole. Non-residents can book.
CH
Liath
Blackrock Market, 19a Main Street, Blackrock, Co Dublin; 085-1278680,
liathrestaurant.com
Liath owner and head chef Damien Grey. Photograph Nick Bradshaw/The Irish Times
One of Dublin's smallest restaurants and one of its mightiest, Liath is an intimate space where food is staged as art. Damien Grey and team perform manoeuvres with grace through service in the fully open kitchen, allowing guests to see the artists at work. Grey is looking to move to a larger space, so make sure to get a booking at Blackrock market before they leave.
JC
Lir
The Marina, Coleraine, Co Derry; +44 78-28127739,
lirseafood.com
Lir restaurant in Coleraine. Photograph: Arthur Allison/Pacemaker
Chef Stevie McCarry recently won the Northern Ireland final of the Great British Menu, a well-earned accolade for this self-taught chef. With wife Rebekah, he has developed Lir into a truly exciting seafood restaurant. The Japanese konro grill is put to good use in the kitchen which turns out cod collar schnitzel, ling kofta with burnt apple sauce and smoked dogfish corndog. Look out for the upcoming summer music nights on the terrace.
Read our full review
here
.
JC
Paradiso
16 Lancaster Quay, Cork; 021-4277939,
paradiso.restaurant
Denis Cotter, owner and executive chef of Paradiso. Photograph: Ruth Calder-Potts
After more than 30 years in business, Denis Cotter is planning his transition away from his legendary fine-dining vegetarian restaurant. Long-term restaurant manager Dave O'Mahony is in line to take over, with head chef Miguel Frutos continuing to lead the kitchen into the future. With produce grown in a unique partnership with Gort na Náin farm and a super natural wine menu, Paradiso continues to set the standard.
Read our full review
here
.
JC
Rare
3-4 Pearse Street, Kinsale, Co Cork; 021-4772209,
rare1784.ie
Rare executive head chef Meeran Manzoor. Photograph: Miki Barlok
There isn't another restaurant quite like Rare. Drawing on his classical French training, chef Meeran Manzoor has invented a cuisine that is all his own, using the best of local produce accented with flavours from his home city of Chennai. His menu descriptions may sound simple but they belie a complexity of spice and nuanced technique that is simply delightful.
JC
Restaurant Chestnut
The Chestnut Tree, Staball Hill, Ballydehob, Co Cork; 028-25766,
restaurantchestnutwestcork.ie
Restaurant Chestnut: Exacting, mature and restrained cooking
Rob Krawczyk and Elaine Fleming's Michelin-starred Chestnut offers three routes – a €55 two-course prix fixe, a four-course for €75 or the full €120 tasting menu. Ingredients are local and fiercely seasonal – Lisheen Greens, Twomey's butchers, Union Hall fish – with much of it cooked over a custom wood-fired grill. Expect wild halibut with mussels or aged Skeaghanore duck with coal onion and sour cherries. His food is exacting, mature and restrained – one of the country's top chefs.
CH
The Dining Room at Gregan's Castle
Gregan's Castle Hotel, Ballyvaughan, Co Clare; 065-7077005,
gregans.ie
Chef Jonathan Farrell, Gregans Castle Hotel. Photograph: Eamon Ward
Sitting in a little glen outside Ballyvaughan, Gregans Castle is the quirky but extremely stylish countryside hotel of dreams. Chef Jonathan Farrell moved from Dublin to take over the kitchens and is producing food perfectly harmonised with the stunning landscapes. Choose from dishes such as wild garlic spaetzle, Atlantic scallop with XO, butter-poached cod, roast rack of Burren lamb or forced rhubarb direct from the hotel garden.
Read our full review
here
.
JC
The Olde Glen
Glen Village, Carrigart, Co Donegal; 083-1585777,
oldeglen.ie
The Olde Glen bar and restaurant, Co Donegal
The Olde Glen bar would have a serious chance in any 'Ireland's most traditional pub' competition, and is worth a visit in its own right. But it's the cooking of Ciaran Sweeney to the rear of the pub that brings the punters in night after night. The menu is packed with local produce including roast Mulroy Bay scallops, fermented potato bread with Gortahork cabbage and glazed Killybegs cod.
JC
The Owenmore Restaurant at Ballynahinch Castle
Recess, Connemara, Co Galway; 095-31006,
ballynahinchcastle.com
The Owenmore Restaurant, Ballynahinch Castle, Co Galway
Former Michelin star chef Danni Barry keeps things razor sharp at the Owenmore Restaurant, with a four-course table d'hote menu (€95) that lets the ingredients do the talking. Kilkeel scallops with caramelised kohlrabi, line-caught mackerel with blood orange and horseradish, barbecued quail with soy and honey, and wild sea bass with salt-baked celeriac are cooked with precision. Bookings are available for non-residents.
CH
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Irish Times
3 hours ago
- Irish Times
Shadowing a Lion: Dan Sheehan's dad on nerves, thrills and big decisions as he follows his son around Australia
Being a proud parent is a vicarious life mostly spent in the shadows of your offspring. Parents are no different from their children − striving to balance the basket of hope with the bucket of fear. Hoping that the dream of one of their own being selected for the ultimate accolade in rugby might come to pass, versus the constant terror of ever daring to say it out loud, mentioning it in passing or putting travel plans in place before Sky Sports have tortured your soul with a protracted squad announcement. Much like players, parents trot out the cliches to themselves and others: you can only plan and commit funds to the game that is immediately in front of you; to have booked flights, or even to have a mental map of how you might get more time off work than your annual leave, is to tempt the fate of injury and the ensuing cruel and very expensive disappointment of cancelling non-refundable travel plans. As you watch prices for travel and hotels rise you wonder when it might be safe to put the long considered what-if plans − that you were never comfortable having in the first place − into action. Have no doubt that there was a surge in parental bookings the day after the final league game for each of the players in the Lions squad. A trip like this is more complicated than a regular holiday. You need to explain to your better half that yes, it is in fact true that you are both intentionally leaving a potentially warm and pleasant Irish summer to visit the southern hemisphere during their winter. It takes more than one intervention for the penny to drop that we will be gone for a month, it will be cold and wet, we will be moving every three days, there won't be much beach action, and the luggage allowance is 15kg. READ MORE The baggage restrictions mean that there needs to be a selection meeting with the wardrobe. Akin to picking a playing squad there are always a few bankers who were always going to make the trip. Like the Tadhg Furlong -type shoe – may not have seen much action this year, could be a little heavier than one might want, but has a pedigree and history that can be relied upon. Other pieces have quite simply earned the right to travel, such as the Hugo Keenan of shirts, which covers more ground than others might think and is a proven last line of defence against unwanted breakouts. Confirmation of Dan Sheehan's selection for the Lions tour to Australia meant unspoken plans could start to be put into action. Photograph:Every traveller is surprised at the amount of one-cap wonders that were even considered for inclusion in the wider squad of clobber. They have been living for too long now in the back of the wardrobe and will need to be released upon return to the northern hemisphere. That said, a rather fine hat can be considered this tour's bolter. The travel to Australia is a bit of a dog. Not great, but its bark is worse than its bite. The only unplanned-for complication so far has been the impact on the body clock, which can be best described as a time bomb. Maybe it is the excitement and pride of joining a tour where you have some skin in the game that lulls you into feeling that you have beaten the jet lag. The device, however, has been hidden well inside and suddenly out of nowhere on day three it detonates. The catnapping kicks in and the beast needs to be confronted. Staring at the ceiling at 4am shows there is some work to be done yet. Canberra is a planned city that appears to have been located by dropping a pin on a map. It looks and feels like it has been designed and built by AI. Everything is logical and straight-lined. Canberra is also the homeplace of the Hansens. They met up before and after the game against the Brumbies to celebrate Mack representing the Lions. Mack's folks kindly invited some of the travelling Irish parents to join them for a prematch drink at the RUC club. Mack's jerseys, from his time playing with the Brumbies and with Ireland, are framed on the walls. Someone remembered to pack a cuddly toy. Photograph: Dan Sheridan/Inpho It was fantastic to see the pride and joy that Mack's achievements give to so many of his friends and family. It is a feeling that is shared across all the families who are lucky enough to have a player in this touring party. We met Mack's brother, uncles, aunts, cousins and friends. Star of the show is Grandmother Hansen, who at 94 is the boss of the lot. How nice for them to have it all come home to them rather than having to travel or watch it from afar. Adelaide feels to be what Canberra can hope to become. It comes across as historical and storied. The people are warm and welcoming. While crossing the street looking for a restaurant we were engaged by a local gentleman. In the space of one minute and 100 metres he gave us a review and recommendation for all the best restaurants in Adelaide. We won't go hungry here. The stadium in Adelaide is fantastic and achieves a beautiful balance between modernity and tradition. It is as close to the centre as the Millennium Stadium in Cardiff. Supporters flow in and throughout with ease. The stewards and staff are welcoming and helpful. Their Ask Me badges invite conversation and radiate warmth. The old cricket scoreboard dominates the backdrop. You can almost hear the crack of the ball on Don Bradman's bat. Dan Sheehan with parents Barry and Sinead in South Africa last year. Photograph: Dan Sheridan/Inpho Much like the playing squad, the team's shadows are slowly assembling. The shadows are an important part of any athlete's team. They are the last line of defence and the first line of support. They know what makes their star shine, or what causes it to slip out of its orbit from time to time. They watch closely, observing lots and speaking little. They look for the small things and note changes that others do not see. Their gaze lingers a little longer than others might after any type of meaningful contact during a game. They observe and decipher signs of stress or concern. They largely live on their nerves and their savings – it's an expensive and rewarding indulgence being a shadow. Some know each other well from years of hovering in the background. There have been lifelong journeys to get to this point. The path has not been straightforward. It is much closer to a rollercoaster than a motorway, all the way from underage rugby through to club and country and now this. What a treat for us all. There was an unofficial orientation day of sorts for the shadows at the Argentina game in Dublin , just as this voyage began. Shadows glanced at other shadows. Introductions were made and some phone numbers exchanged. The overwhelming tone of first conversations among the shadows are of pride and pinch-me-to-ensure-this-is-all-real. Only the very odd shadow ever expected when bringing their little lad to mini rugby that we might end up chasing them as Lions around Australia. Only a few shadows made the warm weather week in Perth. A few more appeared in Sydney, with another few additions in Canberra. Adelaide is serving as something of a rallying point for what will soon be a flotilla. We might need a bigger boat for what lies ahead ...
Irish Times
9 hours ago
- Irish Times
The Murder Capital at Iveagh Gardens in Dublin: Stage times, ticket information, support acts and more
Irish post-punk group The Murder Capital are set to perform at Dublin's Iveagh Gardens this week. The band have been busy gigging since the release last year of their third studio album, Blindness, to critical acclaim. Produced by John Congleton, The Murder Capital wrote the energetic and experimental album over 10 days in Dublin and recorded it in a swift three-week blast in Los Angeles. If you are heading to the gig in the Iveagh Gardens, here's everything you need to know. When and where is it? The Murder Capital will play Dublin's Iveagh Gardens on Saturday, July 19th. READ MORE What time should I arrive? Doors for the gig open at 6.30pm, with the music expected to begin at 8pm. Iveagh Gardens concerts tend to be finished up by 10.30pm. Traffic and entry delays are inevitable, so make sure you give yourself a couple of hours' leeway getting to and from the venue. Who is playing? The band's support acts are English punk-rock duo Soft Play, formerly known as Slaves, and London-based indie-rock band Mary in the Junkyard. What songs will The Murder Capital play? This is a set list performed by The Murder Capital at Blind in Turkey last month. It might give an idea of what to expect at the Dublin concert. The Fall More Is Less Death of a Giant The Stars Will Leave Their Stage A Thousand Lives Heart in the Hole A Distant Life That Feeling Swallow Love of Country Green & Blue Feeling Fades Moonshot Can't Pretend to Know Don't Cling to Life Ethel Words Lost Meaning How do I get to and from the gig? The venue is located right beside St Stephen's Green in the heart of Dublin city, so concertgoers are advised to use one of many public transport options to get to the venue. Travel by bus: A wide variety of Dublin Bus routes service the city centre. The 37 route, for example, runs along the northside of the quays and will drop you an eight-minute walk from the Iveagh Gardens. You can plan your journey with Transport for Ireland here . Travel by Luas: The St Stephen's Green Luas stop is a seven-minute walk from the venue. If you are heading southbound, take any green line Luas towards Sandyford or Brides Glen. If you are heading northbound, take any green line Luas towards Broombridge or Parnell. Travel by train: If you are arriving in Dublin by train, you can hop on the red line Luas from Heuston Station to Abbey Street. There, transfer to the green line Luas from the stop on Marlborough Street, hopping off at St Stephen's Green and walking seven minutes to the Iveagh Gardens. Travel by car: The closest car park to the venue is the Q-Park at St Stephen's Green. You can pre-book a parking space here , though it is recommended you use public transport as traffic delays before and after the gig are inevitable. Are there any tickets left? At the time of writing there are still tickets for the available. They can be purchased from Ticketmaster here . Remember to download your tickets to your phone in advance, as there may be internet or connectivity issues at the venue on the day. Do not rely on screenshots, as Ticketmaster often use live or dynamic barcodes that update regularly. What is security like? The event is for over-14s only, and under-16s must be accompanied by an adult aged 18 or over. Make sure to bring an official form of identification with you such as a passport, Garda age card or driving licence. Bags size A4 or more will not be permitted entry, and all bags will be subject to a search on arrival. Prohibited items include glass, cans, alcohol, garden furniture, umbrellas, flares, illegal substances or any item that could be used as a weapon. Recording and taking pictures using a camera phone is no problem, but professional recording equipment will not be allowed inside the venue. What does the weather look like? According to Met Éireann, Saturday will be mostly cloudy with highest temperatures of 15-18 degrees.
Irish Times
9 hours ago
- Irish Times
‘Here comes everybody': Connemara fishermen lead seafaring pilgrimage to patron saint MacDara
People from all over Connemara and the rest of the world braved sea journeys to a small island off Co Galway for the annual Féile Mhic Dara gathering on Wednesday. About 85 boats, mostly traditional fishermen's wooden currachs, ferried some 500 people to Oileán Mhic Dara, St MacDara's Island, for the July 16th pilgrimage, when the patron saint of Connemara's fishermen is honoured. But no fishing was done. Local fisherman devoted their time, as they do on this day every year, bringing locals and others to the early Christian oratory that stands like a stone barnacle on this uninhabited rock for the traditional mass. 'People come back from every corner of the world. They come back for Christmas and for St MacDara's Day,' said Fr Shane Sullivan, the parish priest from nearby Carna and, like his new boss in the Vatican, a native of Chicago. READ MORE Tides and weather set the rhythms of fishing and life out here. A morning high tide and overcast but calm day allowed people to make the 11.45am mass. Fr Sullivan said people in Connemara feel a 'strong sense' of heritage, place and community. He described the 'rough and ready' tradition of travelling to the island by various seafaring crafts as an 'awesome chance' for everyone to gather. 'It's a bit like James Joyce said: here comes everybody,' he said. 'It is a great pilgrimage for the boatmen and for fishermen. Their work is very dangerous so they come here and they have a sense of wanting a blessing.' He ended the hillside mass – said over a wooden altar that could be broken up into three to fit on a currach – with a blessing for the men and their boats. Fr Shane Sullivan, parish priest from Carna, Co Galway, celebrates mass on St MacDara's Island for the festival. Photograph: Chris Maddaloni Fishermen first like to circle the island to honour the sixth century saint who fished, survived and built a wooden church on this windswept location. One fisherman, Johnny Cloherty of Muighinis, dipped his hand in the water passing the island on John Ó Flatharta's boat Golden Adventure to bless himself. 'It is a big day for the fishermen,' said Cloherty. Fisherman Johnny Cloherty journeys by boat to St MacDara's Island for Lá Fhéile Mhic Dara. Photograph: Chris Maddaloni/The Irish Times Locals say, in old days, fishermen dipped their foresail passing by in tribute to the saint. 'There is a story that one man didn't dip his sail on purpose,' said local fisherman MacDara Breathnach, who was named after a grandfather who was named after the saint. 'The mast broke and fell down on top of him and killed him dead in the boat. They are just stories. We would respect it.' Sitting on the island, well-known Connemara actor Páraic Breathnach, a pilgrim to the island for most years of his life, said people here still have a 'pre-Christian faith'. 'They believe in superstition and when are you dealing with the sea and the weather and the wind and the vagaries of the ocean you have to believe in something and MacDara is a great man to have on your side,' he said. For many, the day is a time to catch up, as generations mix over post-mass picnics and flasks of tea. Mairtín Barrett has been visiting the island for over 80 years. Photograph: Chris Maddaloni/The Irish Times Mairtín Barrett (92) said the day 'hasn't changed a lot really' in all his years. Margaret Mulkerrin (76), who returned from Boston, said her first MacDara's trip was 72 years ago: 'It was a very windy day. We were kind of afraid; there were nine in the boat.' It is a first visit to Ireland for her grandson, Michael Frazier Jr (12). 'It is a really fascinating experience to see something that has been here so long and is still standing,' he said, looking up at the oratory. This is Fr Sullivan's fourth MacDara's as the local priest. His father emigrated to Chicago from this parish in the 1970s. Shane returned in 2008 and was ordained in 2012. 'I really wanted to come here and be a priest – it felt like a calling,' said Fr Sullivan, who was motivated by 'how few young men were going forward to the priesthood'. Serving in a Gaeltacht meant learning Irish over three summers in Carraroe. His mass on the island was said in a strong American Irish. 'People get a laugh out of it because I still do sound like an American,' he said. 'Try to speak Irish with this accent – it's a bit strange.'
