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Calgary Herald

Exploring France's incredible food scene on a budget? Try the bouchons of Lyon

The decor and vibe at Bouchon Thomas is French hole-in-the-wall chic. Article content It is one of dozens of casual eateries known as bouchons Lyonnais restaurants in Lyon, France. The concept is not posh, polished and pricey, but hearty, authentic and affordable, with a focus on delicious regional fare done well. Article content Article content Article content Article content We were warmly greeted at the door and stepped into a subdued yellow glow of light and a hodgepodge, small, three-level space with only 22 seats at eight tables, worn wood floor, exposed stone wall and open shelves stuffed with crockery, wine bottles and corks. Article content We determined, with the help of the waiter and his charming Franglish, that the gateau de foie was a delightful pate; the cervelle a traditional sausage; boeuf meniere a cheap cut of beef slow cooked to deliciousness; and the fondant chocolate and vanilla crême brulée the perfect dessert. Article content Article content The red wine was also affordable. We enjoyed a fresh and fruity Domaine Jerome-Paris 2024 Les Forchets from the nearby Beaujolais wine region for 39 euros a bottle (about C$62). Article content Article content Throughout the meal, our conversation became more animated, caught up in French joie de vivre and the fact that we were in Lyon, the undisputed 'world capital of gastronomy.' Article content Powerful French food critic Maurice Edmond Sailland, who used the pen name Curnosky, declared the city such in 1935 and the accolade has stuck. Article content Lyon — a picturesque and historic city of two million inhabitants at the confluence of the Rhone and Saone rivers in the east-central part of France — is a crossroads where the best fish, meat, produce and wine arrives to be bought, sold and cooked.