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Fashion Value Chain
20 hours ago
- Business
- Fashion Value Chain
Handloom in India: A Decade of Transformation (2015–2025)
Dr Vidhu Sekhar P, Assistant Professor, Department of Fashion Management Studies, National Institute of Fashion Technology, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India From the celebration of the first National Handloom Day in 2015 by the Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi to global collaborations in 2025, Indian handloom has experienced a remarkable transformation. This decade has seen government policy initiatives, technological integration, new markets, and community engagement for a sustainable handloom journey. Handloom, an ancient craft of woven fabric, continues to draw audiences with its intricate designs, vibrant textures, and elegance. Right from the traditional Kasavu saris of Kerala in the south to the vibrant Banarasi fabrics of Uttar Pradesh or the Pashmina textiles of Kashmir, handloom has a pan-Indian presence in shaping the country's rich textile heritage. The history of handlooms in India dates back centuries to the Indus Valley Civilisation, with archaeological evidence of sophisticated textile production, showcasing the country's ancient expertise in weaving and fabric craftsmanship. Over time, the glimpses of the past handloom tradition have evolved into a vibrant and diverse textile heritage, reflecting India's regional uniqueness, craftsmanship, and timeless beauty. Skilled weavers crafted exquisite fabrics for royalty, nobility, and everyday people, showcasing their mastery in the craft, showcasing luxurious textures that reflected the country's rich cultural diversity. Colonialism led to significant shifts in the handloom industry. As described in 'Weaving Histories: A Study of South India's Handloom Industry (1800-1960),' British rule disrupted the traditional connection between cotton cultivation, spinning, and weaving, impacting weavers who produced everyday fabrics. Until the 1980s, historians widely believed that the advent of power looms and British colonial policies led to a decline in India's handloom industry. The introduction of mechanised spinning and weaving technologies seemed to make traditional handloom practices obsolete. However, Morris D. Morris in 1963 challenged this narrative. Citing the 1951 census, which recorded ten million people employed in traditional industries, Morris argued that craft skills had remained resilient in South Asia. Contrary to expectations, the handloom industry thrived between 1900 and 1940, with handmade cloth and artisanal wages on the rise. This challenges the conventional narrative of decline and raises questions about the industry's resilience. Weaving as a livelihood remained anchored in the economic base of many small towns and contributed to the economic and social processes that formed modern India. This was the case especially for many regions in the country, including Kerala, Tamil Nadu, coastal Andhra Pradesh, eastern Uttar Pradesh, West Bengal, and western Maharashtra. The above propositions highlight the complexity of India's handloom history and the need to reevaluate the impact of technological innovation on traditional industries like handloom and Khadi weaving. The handloom industry's cultural importance persists, even when it navigates difficulties. Undoubtedly, handloom is an integral part of India's economic and social landscape, supporting rural livelihoods and preserving textile traditions. The Modi government has initiated programs to revive and promote India's handloom sector, which supports the country's cultural and rural economy. Declaring August 7 as National Handloom Day in 2015 commemorates every year the Swadeshi Movement to honour weavers' craftsmanship while promoting handloom products across the country. Through schemes like the National Handloom Development Programme, Raw Material Supply Scheme, and Comprehensive Handloom Cluster Development Scheme, the government provides financial assistance, technical support, and infrastructure development to boost weavers' competitiveness and sustainability. Initiatives like Vocal for Local and #MyProductMyPride campaigns promoted Indian handloom and Khadi products, while geo-tagging, GI tags, and onboarding weavers on the Government e-Marketplace (GeM) platform enhanced market access. With over 25 lakh women employed in the sector, the government has always emphasised women's empowerment through self-help groups and cooperatives. Recognition via Design Resource Centres and Handloom Awards encouraged innovation and excellence among weavers. Despite these transformative shifts, this sector faces skilled worker attrition, inter-generational migration, and challenges in scaling up amidst competition and changing market trends. The quantitative achievements from rising exports, increased employment, and reasonable income are the motivating factors for the government to pursue new policy initiatives for the handloom to position itself as a global leader.


Fashion Value Chain
22-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Fashion Value Chain
Vinsmera Jewels ad redefines fashion; Jewellery is Beautiful for Everyone
Dr Vidhu Sekhar P (Assistant Professor, Department of Fashion Management Studies, National Institute of Fashion Technology-NIFT, Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India) The recent viral advertisement of Vinsmera Jewels, owned by Kambrath Brothers from Kannur, Kerala, has remarkably shown the boldness in breaking the traditional gender norms and its creative storytelling, which has captivated attention on new media platforms for both critics and audiences across the country. In the last two days (18th July), they received 1.9 million views and 62 K likes for their YouTube advertisement. This advertisement was broadcast in connection with the upcoming opening of a new showroom in Calicut, Kerala, scheduled for next month. The concept and the storyline of the ad showcase the behind-the-scenes of a jewellery photoshoot and the discussion. The storyline goes like this: Veteran Malayalam movie actor Mohanlal arrives on the set, and the Director briefs the context and introduces the female model, who is wearing the brand's diamond jewellery. The story narration twists when the jewellery disappears after the model leaves the location. The film crew desperately searches for the missing pieces. The film director and crew decided to break the news to Mohanlal, and the suspense was unveiled when they found Mohanlal in the vanity van, facing the mirror while wearing the ornaments. It was followed by a pin drop silence and the expressive performance of Mohanlal. Lal was wearing his everyday shirt and trousers paired with the necklace, bracelet, and ring, He was seen performing a classical dance with expressive hand gestures(mudras) that infused with intentionally feminine movements, an expression of self. The ad stands out for avoiding dialogue. Mohanlal's performance depends entirely on body language, facial expressions, and dance to convey joy and embody a gender-fluid persona. The ad ends with the director catching Mohanlal in the middle of his dance. Instead of tension, both burst into laughter, keeping the tone light and celebratory. Mohanlal, a highly respected actor in India known for his versatility and traditionally masculine on-screen persona, chose to elegantly wear women's jewellery without irony, caricature, or mockery. This challenged conventional norms in jewellery advertising and notions of gender roles in Indian media. The performance is earning acclaim for being bold and impactful. Fans and critics alike note that Mohanlal 'pushes boundaries in jewellery advertising' and 'seamlessly merges masculine and feminine elements,' earning praise for the actor's artistry, poise, and willingness to explore new expressions. Social media responded swiftly, filled with admiration for Mohanlal's bold move. Comments span from 'Absolutely brilliant' to 'No other actor blends femininity and masculinity so elegantly,' showing respect even from viewers who found the scene surprising or unconventional. The ad is seen as a pivotal moment for jewellery advertising in India, sparking discussions on representation and inclusivity in the country's luxury market. Krishnan Kambrath, Dinesh Kambrath, Anil Kambrath, and Manoj Kambrath make up the management team for Vinsmera with corporate offices in Dubai and India. They belong to Mozhara, a small village in Kerala's Kannur district. In Dubai, they established Al Mawsim Gold and Jewellery Factory LLC in 2008. In 2016, they launched Win Gold, their wholesale division. Initially, they focused on manufacturing and production. All team members have experience in retail, production, and wholesale. Starting as a small factory, they expanded to Dubai and Sharjah. They operate manufacturing and wholesale in Kannur and Trichur. They have a distinguished name in the jewellery industry, carrying forward the legacy of craftsmanship, precision, and incomparable expertise to redefine the essence of luxury. They are supported by a team of over 1,000 skilled artisans and advanced manufacturing units in India and the UAE. Their network spans over 12 countries, with imminent expansions into Singapore, Malaysia, the UK, and the USA. The company management aims to revolutionize the jewellery industry by blending artistry, innovation, and precision to create unique pieces. Their focus is on crafting timeless creations that tell a story, honour individuality, and stand the test of time. They aspire to become a globally recognised jewellery house, celebrated for their unmatched value, exceptional craftsmanship, and steadfast commitment to ethical sourcing. By sourcing top-quality materials from Italy, Singapore, Turkey, India, and Malaysia, they ensure their customers experience the finest jewellery.


Fashion Value Chain
23-06-2025
- Business
- Fashion Value Chain
Masstige is Redefining Indian Luxury Renaissance
Ms. Ananya Tiwari, Post-Graduate Academic Scholar in Fashion Management, National Institute of Fashion Technology, Ministry of Textiles, Daman campus Dr Vidhu Sekhar P, Assistant Professor, Department of Fashion Management Studies, National Institute of Fashion Technology, Ministry of Textiles, Daman campus Abstract The masstige or affordable luxury segment is gaining traction in India, driven by rising disposable incomes, changing consumer preferences, and digital connectivity. This trend is characterized by luxury goods and services that are accessible to a wider audience without compromising on quality or prestige. Indian consumers are seeking premium products that reflect their lifestyle, status, and personal taste, with a growing demand for unique, limited, and sought-after collections. The masstige market in India is expected to continue growing, with a projected growth rate of 10% over the next five years, exceeding $200 billion by 2030. Brands like Good Earth, Nicobar, and Nappa Dori are popular choices among Indian consumers seeking premium and sustainable products. As consumers become more discerning and demanding, luxury brands will need to adapt to changing preferences and priorities, including sustainability and exclusivity. Keywords Masstige, Indian luxury market, digital consumers, sustainability, craftsmanship, personalization, aspirational demographic, global luxury slowdown, artisanal ecosystem, Made in India Introduction The global luxury goods market, valued at $286.10 billion in 2024 and expected to reach $405.80 billion by 2033, growing at a CAGR of 3.76%, is experiencing a slowdown in certain segments. However, India's luxury market is poised for growth, driven by a young and aspirational demographic, rising affluence, and increasing demand for premium products. Despite the global slowdown, India's luxury market is expected to grow at an annual rate of 10% over the next five years, exceeding $200 billion by 2030. This growth is driven by the rising affluence. India's growing middle class, with increasing disposable income, is driving demand for luxury goods and experiences. The Young and Aspirational Demographic with over 65% of its population under 35, India boasts a young and dynamic consumer base, prioritizing experiences, personalization, and exclusivity. Evolving Luxury: India's Cultural Edge and Masstige Opportunity Global Luxury Market Trends is mainly dominated by Asia Pacific region holding a revenue share of 39.9% in 2024, driven by increasing disposable incomes and a growing middle class. The Apparel accounting for 25.9% of global revenue in 2024, driven by product innovation, exclusivity, and evolving fashion trends. The most valuable luxury brands in 2024 include Porsche, valued at $43.117 billion, followed closely by Louis Vuitton at $32.235 billion, and Chanel at $26.068 billion. Hermès and Gucci also rank high, with valuations of $16.676 billion and $14.864 billion, respectively. These iconic brands have established themselves as leaders in the luxury market, known for their exceptional quality, craftsmanship, and timeless appeal. While the Indian luxury market holds immense potential, it also poses challenges. Luxury brands need to balance pricing strategies to cater to India's price-conscious consumers. The strict regulations require local partnerships, which can deter foreign luxury brands from entering the Indian market. By understanding the unique challenges and opportunities, luxury brands can capitalize on India's growth story and establish a strong foothold in this dynamic market. India's luxury market is a mindset that needs to be understood rather than a market that needs to be 'entered.' The challenge for international luxury brands is not only to navigate strict FDI regulations and skyrocketing import taxes, but also to rethink what luxury means in India and reevaluate their initial expectations of what it should look like. The demand is genuine, but it is encased in paradox: a buyer who worships tradition but consumes hypermodern, who purchases luxury but looks for purpose, and who drives a Mercedes but haggles over MRP. Where and how luxury is consumed in India is where the real change is occurring. Delhi and Mumbai's influence as centres of luxury is eroding. The next generation of luxury customers isn't just exploring Emporio's marble floors; they're also perusing Instagram in places like Indore, Coimbatore, and Guwahati, yearning for experiences that align with their values and goals. The Western luxury playbook doesn't work here. Retail reimagining is required, not just expansion, with flagship stores serving as both physical locations and digital ecosystems that are rich in regional aesthetics, local language, and cultural codes. Although regulatory constraints, high taxes, and disorganized infrastructure may appear to be obstacles, they can also be reframed as an appeal to reorganize the luxury value chain, beginning with manufacturing in India. International brands have a strong chance to base their production within India's centuries-old artisanal ecosystems rather than paying a premium to import finished goods. and pricing for belonging, as well as affordability. Costs can be cut by sourcing and producing in India, but more significantly, it provides authenticity, which is something that customers around the world are beginning to value more. India offers unrivalled material culture and skilled human capital, from the leather craftsmen of Dharavi to the brocade weavers of Varanasi, from the intricate hand embroidery of Lucknow to the metal artisans of Moradabad, often at a fraction of the cost, but with unmatched finesse. Imagine the possibilities if global brands considered India as a co-creative partner as well as a sourcing destination: a Dior lehenga woven in Banaras, a Gucci bag featuring illustrations by Pattachitra, or a Hermès scarf block-printed in Bagru, each piece carrying not only aesthetic but also emotional and geographical depth. However, authenticity, sustainability, and innovation are more important than cost-effectiveness. 'Made in India' can be a mark of soul and storytelling in a time when aware consumers want to know where, how, and by whom their products are made. In addition to improving their ethical reputation, brands that emphasize these origins use cultural intelligence to capitalize on the rising demand for luxury around the world. Additionally, this creates a huge masstige opportunity: luxury brands can reach India's aspirational yet budget-conscious consumer base by co-creating mid-tier, culturally rich, and design-forward collections produced in India. This market is looking for identity, craftsmanship, and meaning rather than logos. Brands can grow without compromising their values by investing in Indian craftsmanship and providing affordable luxury lines with strong local appeal. In the end, the Indian luxury market requires brands to become deeply rooted in the Indian culture rather than just localizing. The key to success will be creating a luxury that feels personal, welcoming, and distinctly Indian rather than trying to emulate Parisian extravagance. Adaptability is not only strategic, but also important in this dynamic environment.


Fashion Value Chain
06-06-2025
- Business
- Fashion Value Chain
The Swoosh in the Saree: How Nike's Women's Push Resonates in India
By Shweta Sheth – Post Graduate Academic Scholar. Department of Fashion Management Studies, National Institute of Fashion Technology, Ministry of Textiles Govt of India, Daman campus Nike, the global titan of sportswear, has always been synonymous with athletic prowess and a relentless pursuit of greatness. From Michael Jordan's gravity-defying dunks to Serena Williams's dominant serves, the 'Just Do It' ethos has inspired millions worldwide. But as the brand steps into a new era, marked by a revamped leadership team under brand president Amy Montagne and the powerful face of A'ja Wilson, its commitment to women is taking center stage. In India, a nation where sports are increasingly embraced by women, this evolution is particularly significant, promising to redraw the lines of athletic aspiration. India, with its vibrant cultural tapestry and a burgeoning young population, presents a unique landscape for a brand like Nike. For years, cricket has reigned supreme, often overshadowing other sports and limiting visibility for female athletes. However, a silent revolution has been brewing. From the boxing ring with Mary Kom to the badminton court with PV Sindhu and Saina Nehwal, Indian women are making their mark on the global sporting arena, inspiring a generation to embrace physical activity. Nike's journey in India hasn't been without its hurdles. Early on, the brand faced challenges in connecting with the price-sensitive Indian consumer and adapting its global strategies to local nuances. While they made significant investments in cricket sponsorships, the broader appeal often remained elusive. Yet, in recent years, a more nuanced and impactful approach has emerged, especially concerning women's sports. Campaigns like 'Da Da Ding,' featuring a powerful squad of everyday female athletes, resonated deeply, driving app downloads and increasing participation in Nike Run Clubs. This demonstrated a crucial understanding: to truly connect with the Indian woman, the brand needed to celebrate her journey, her struggles, and her triumphs, not just the elite athlete. Enter Amy Montagne, Nike's President, who brings two decades of experience within the company, including a crucial stint as VP/GM Global Women's. Her promotion signals a clear strategic pivot, aiming to serve consumers across all sports and accelerate growth, with women's initiatives at the core. This renewed focus on women is not merely about product; it's about shifting the narrative, dismantling stereotypes, and creating a truly inclusive sporting environment. The recent campaigns featuring A'ja Wilson, the WNBA superstar, are a prime example of this bold new direction. Wilson embodies strength, unapologetic ambition, and a fierce dedication to her craft. Her presence, alongside other powerful female athletes like Caitlin Clark and Sha'Carri Richardson, in campaigns like 'So Win,' resonates with a message that transcends sport: it's okay to want to win, to be the best, and to demand your space. This sharper, bolder marketing appeal, less about feel-good clichés and more about the raw passion for victory, is a refreshing change. For the Indian market, this narrative holds immense power. Indian women often navigate societal expectations and traditional roles, making their foray into sports a testament to their resilience and determination. When Nike champions athletes like A'ja Wilson, who defy limitations and own their power, it sends a powerful message to every aspiring female athlete in India: your dreams are valid, your ambitions are worth pursuing, and you too can break barriers. The impact of such campaigns is not just about selling shoes; it's about fostering a cultural shift. By showcasing diverse female athletes who embody grit and determination, Nike is helping to normalize and celebrate women's participation in sports. This, in turn, can inspire more young girls in India to pick up a bat, kick a ball, or lace up their running shoes, knowing that a global brand stands with them. Nike's evolution, with its revamped leadership and powerful storytelling, is a testament to its understanding that the future of sport is undeniably female. In India, where the potential for women's sports is immense, this commitment from a brand as influential as Nike could be the catalyst for a truly transformative era, one where the swoosh becomes a symbol of empowerment for every Indian woman who dares to 'Just Do It.'


Fashion Value Chain
04-06-2025
- Business
- Fashion Value Chain
Transforming Fashion: Global Summit 2025 Global Fashion Summit at Copenhagen
By Ms Shweta Sheth The Global Fashion Summit 2025 is taking place in Copenhagen from June 3-5. It is expected to bring together industry leaders to address the fashion industry's most pressing challenges, including climate change, human rights violations, and global inequities. With the theme 'Barriers and Bridges,' the summit will explore ways to transform traditional barriers into bridges for tangible change, focusing on impact-centric topics related to social and environmental challenges. The summit will feature practical case studies and visionary discussions on balancing regulatory compliance with creative and sustainable growth, building the business case for sustainability, aligning financial viability with the planet's needs, and climate adaptation and resilience in the fashion industry. By leveraging innovation, technology, and collaboration, the summit aims to drive meaningful change and create a more sustainable and equitable future for the fashion industry, where sustainability is not deprioritized amid economic volatility, and business strategy is aligned with external mandates without sacrificing creativity. The summit will spotlight pathways to balance competing demands, such as climate action with business resilience, regulatory compliance with radical innovation, and near-term possibilities for action with long-term vision, ultimately enabling collaboration and guiding implementation towards a net-positive future. While the 2025 summit will be held in Copenhagen, previous editions have been hosted in other regions, including Asia (Singapore) and North America (Boston), indicating a global outreach. Convening decision-makers from brands, retailers, suppliers, policymakers, and interconnected industries, the Summit serves as the nexus for agenda-setting discussions on the most critical environmental, social, and ethical issues facing our industry and planet. (Writer is an Academic Scholar, Department of Fashion Management Studies, national Institute of Fashion Technology, Ministry of Textiles, Daman Campus.)