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Scottish Sun
15-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Scottish Sun
Is this the UK's quaintest pub? Never mind Prosecco, they don't even serve lager in ‘legendary' inn untouched by time
DRINK IT IN Is this the UK's quaintest pub? Never mind Prosecco, they don't even serve lager in 'legendary' inn untouched by time I FOUND what seems to be the UK's quaintest old school pub almost by accident - but don't expect to be able to order any champagne. The Dyffryn Arms is certainly not the easiest pub to find, but is well worth the effort. Advertisement 7 The Dyffryn Arms is located in the small rural village of Pontfaen, Wales Credit: John Sturgis 7 The quaint boozer is listed in CAMRA's National Inventory of Historic Pub Interiors Credit: John Sturgis 7 The pub was originally built in 1845 and then was later converted into a pub Credit: John Sturgis It's not in the middle of nowhere so much as on the far edge of nowhere, down any number of narrow winding rural lanes in farming country called the Gwaun Valley, inland from Fishguard at the west end of Pembrokeshire in Wales. Originally built as a house in 1845, it was converted into its current pub-of-sorts format sometime in the Victorian period and has remained little changed ever since: one room for the drinkers, the others for the family that owns it. And it's been run by the same family for over a century. Our sat nav initially took us to a random spot surrounded by fields with no buildings in sight. Advertisement Then, after we'd finally worked out that we were actually a mile or so from where we should be, we found ourselves driving the rest of the route at walking pace - or rather at the walking pace of the herd of dairy cows that were being led very slowly down the narrow country road ahead of us. When we finally got to the pub, it didn't look like a pub at all, an impression reinforced by the appearance of the barman. He looked at least 85-years-old and appeared to have fallen asleep in an armchair while watching daytime TV very loudly in his front room. When he finally stirred and noticed that he had customers, he directed us to the small public area of the pub while disappearing behind a hatch to serve us. Advertisement There was no conventional bar as such, just that hole in the wall separating us from him. The choices were Bass ale poured from a barrel and served from a jug - or two or three room temperature other dusty bottled drinks of unpromising appearance. Pub With A 'Floating' Beer Garden By The Beach Never mind drinks like a glass of Prosecco, the pub didn't even have lager. The snacks also had a retro quality: I noticed a Curly Wurly that was on sale, so leave your ideas of being able to order your Kettle crisps here. Advertisement And the public area was decidedly unlike a conventional modern boozer. There was no banquette seating or any other concessions to comfort, just austere straight-backed wooden chairs and benches that looked like they might have done several decades of previous service as church pews. There was minimal decoration save a few vintage pictures including one of the late queen - and the paintwork looked as though it hadn't been redecorated since she came to the throne in 1952. My wife, demonstrating an extraordinary degree of optimism, actually inquired 'what wines' they kept, as if there might be an extensive list. Advertisement 7 Inside there are no screens, no music, no phone signal and no wifi Credit: John Sturgis 7 And regarding drinks - there were no wines Credit: John Sturgis The question was met with a rather blank stare, with a slight bit of side eye thrown in. She eventually asked for a cider, along with my beer - and of course had the option of only paying with cash. Advertisement There were no screens (except that TV you could still hear booming from the private front room next door), no music, no phone signal and no wifi. Yet to some, having no distractions of any kind would be a welcome respite from the bustling pubs found elsewhere. And the only customers were us, being so quiet I wondered if we might be the only customers that week. This place might not be for everyone but for me it was a long cherished ambition to get here and it didn't disappoint. Advertisement Because, in some beardie real ale circles, the Dyffryn is a legendary pub, a holy grail for the serious pub enthusiast or social historian. 7 The pub has been run by the same family for over a century Credit: John Sturgis CAMRA (the Campaign for Real Ale) describes its interior as 'of outstanding national historic importance' while National Geographic called the pub a 'time warp tavern'. But you will just have to remember to commit to finding it, as it isn't one you will easily wander past. Advertisement The previous manager, one Bessie Davies, had operated the pub's hatch for 72 years by the time she passed away aged 93 in 2023. In tribute her family have done absolutely nothing: keeping it as Bessie kept it and her fans like it. At one point a lot of country pubs would have been like this. In Thomas Hardy's famous Victorian novel Tess of the D'Urbervilles, his village has a pub like this where overspilling punters will often end up drinking in the landlady's bedroom, perched on her bed or chest of drawers while supping ale. Advertisement The Dyffryn is the closest I've ever come to seeing such a phenomenon in real modern life. I would feel guilty publicising The Dyffryn's extraordinary charm in case this were to see it overrun, but in reality most people reading this will never get there, and the few that do make the effort deserve the treat that awaits them. I just hope that when their time comes Bessie's grandchildren are as respectful of the past as to leave this winning formula alone. That's an ambition worth drinking to. Advertisement Britain's best 20 pubs for retro pints HERE are some of the UK's best pubs, as chosen by CAMRA: New Plough Inn, Hinckley, Leicestershire The Cricketers Arms, Saint Helens The Smithfield, Derby Pharmacie Arms, Syston Southampton Arms, Kentish Town, London Blackfriars Tavern, Great Yarmouth Victoria, Walsall Duke of Wellington, Norwich Dirty Duck Ale House, Holywood George Inn, Portsmouth Chapter Arts Centre, Cardiff White Lion, Hampton in Arden Half Moon, Hitchin New Inn, Colchester Antwerp Arms, Tottenham, London Ostrich, Prestwich Puckersley Inn, Royton Drummer's Arms , Blackburn Woolly Sheep, Skipton There is also a small English pub that overlooks one of the UK's best secret beaches. Plus, the best pubs in the UK have been revealed.
The Sun
15-07-2025
- The Sun
Is this the UK's quaintest pub? Never mind Prosecco, they don't even serve lager in ‘legendary' inn untouched by time
I FOUND what seems to be the UK's quaintest old school pub almost by accident - but don't expect to be able to order any champagne. The Dyffryn Arms is certainly not the easiest pub to find, but is well worth the effort. 7 7 It's not in the middle of nowhere so much as on the far edge of nowhere, down any number of narrow winding rural lanes in farming country called the Gwaun Valley, inland from Fishguard at the west end of Pembrokeshire in Wales. Originally built as a house in 1845, it was converted into its current pub-of-sorts format sometime in the V ictorian period and has remained little changed ever since: one room for the drinkers, the others for the family that owns it. And it's been run by the same family for over a century. Our sat nav initially took us to a random spot surrounded by fields with no buildings in sight. Then, after we'd finally worked out that we were actually a mile or so from where we should be, we found ourselves driving the rest of the route at walking pace - or rather at the walking pace of the herd of dairy cows that were being led very slowly down the narrow country road ahead of us. When we finally got to the pub, it didn't look like a pub at all, an impression reinforced by the appearance of the barman. He looked at least 85-years-old and appeared to have fallen asleep in an armchair while watching daytime TV very loudly in his front room. When he finally stirred and noticed that he had customers, he directed us to the small public area of the pub while disappearing behind a hatch to serve us. There was no conventional bar as such, just that hole in the wall separating us from him. The choices were Bass ale poured from a barrel and served from a jug - or two or three room temperature other dusty bottled drinks of unpromising appearance. Never mind drinks like a glass of Prosecco, the pub didn't even have lager. The snacks also had a retro quality: I noticed a Curly Wurly that was on sale, so leave your ideas of being able to order your Kettle crisps here. And the public area was decidedly unlike a conventional modern boozer. There was no banquette seating or any other concessions to comfort, just austere straight-backed wooden chairs and benches that looked like they might have done several decades of previous service as church pews. There was minimal decoration save a few vintage pictures including one of the late queen - and the paintwork looked as though it hadn't been redecorated since she came to the throne in 1952. My wife, demonstrating an extraordinary degree of optimism, actually inquired 'what wines' they kept, as if there might be an extensive list. 7 7 The question was met with a rather blank stare, with a slight bit of side eye thrown in. She eventually asked for a cider, along with my beer - and of course had the option of only paying with cash. There were no screens (except that TV you could still hear booming from the private front room next door), no music, no phone signal and no wifi. Yet to some, having no distractions of any kind would be a welcome respite from the bustling pubs found elsewhere. And the only customers were us, being so quiet I wondered if we might be the only customers that week. This place might not be for everyone but for me it was a long cherished ambition to get here and it didn't disappoint. Because, in some beardie real ale circles, the Dyffryn is a legendary pub, a holy grail for the serious pub enthusiast or social historian. 7 CAMRA (the Campaign for Real Ale) describes its interior as 'of outstanding national historic importance' while National Geographic called the pub a 'time warp tavern'. But you will just have to remember to commit to finding it, as it isn't one you will easily wander past. The previous manager, one Bessie Davies, had operated the pub's hatch for 72 years by the time she passed away aged 93 in 2023. In tribute her family have done absolutely nothing: keeping it as Bessie kept it and her fans like it. At one point a lot of country pubs would have been like this. In Thomas Hardy's famous Victorian novel Tess of the D'Urbervilles, his village has a pub like this where overspilling punters will often end up drinking in the landlady's bedroom, perched on her bed or chest of drawers while supping ale. The Dyffryn is the closest I've ever come to seeing such a phenomenon in real modern life. I would feel guilty publicising The Dyffryn's extraordinary charm in case this were to see it overrun, but in reality most people reading this will never get there, and the few that do make the effort deserve the treat that awaits them. I just hope that when their time comes Bessie's grandchildren are as respectful of the past as to leave this winning formula alone. That's an ambition worth drinking to. There is also a small English pub that overlooks one of the UK's best secret beaches. Plus, the best pubs in the UK have been revealed. 7
Western Telegraph
31-05-2025
- General
- Western Telegraph
The Dyffryn Arms, Pembrokeshire, named Pub of the Week
The Dyffryn Arms, affectionately known as "Bessie's," in Pontfaen, Pembrokeshire, is a one-room pub with no bar counter. Beer is served through a sliding hatch, and the absence of Wi-Fi and TV makes conversation the main form of entertainment. Built as a house in 1845, the pub was later converted and has remained a central part of the secluded valley community. (Image: Supplied) It is listed in CAMRA's National Inventory of Historic Pub Interiors and boasts a Grade II Listed status. The pub's interior, featuring a mix of high-back settles and benches, is described as having "outstanding national historic importance" by CAMRA. The Dyffryn Arms is one of only two pubs in Wales that serves beer from the cask via a jug, and offers Bass poured from a jug and a variety of bottled beers. The pub has retained its old-world charm and welcoming atmosphere, with its lack of food service and outside toilets. (Image: Supplied) Until December 2023, the pub was run by Bessie Davies, who had worked there for 72 years, and it is now managed by her children. Over the decades, Bessie became a beloved figure in the community, with her dedicated service and warm hospitality earning her the admiration of both locals and visitors. The pub, lovingly known as 'Bessie's' in her honour, is a testament to her enduring legacy. The Dyffryn Arms is a proud representation of the Gwaun Valley community, which has lived in relative isolation for centuries and continues to uphold old Welsh traditions that have disappeared in most parts of the country. The pub's unique aesthetic and charismatic landlord have gained it a loyal following. The Dyffryn Arms is open every day of the week (11 am - 10 pm, Sunday-Friday; 1 pm - 10 pm Saturdays) and is cash-only.
