
Is this the UK's quaintest pub? Never mind Prosecco, they don't even serve lager in ‘legendary' inn untouched by time
The Dyffryn Arms is certainly not the easiest pub to find, but is well worth the effort.
7
7
It's not in the middle of nowhere so much as on the far edge of nowhere, down any number of narrow winding rural lanes in farming country called the Gwaun Valley, inland from Fishguard at the west end of Pembrokeshire in Wales.
Originally built as a house in 1845, it was converted into its current pub-of-sorts format sometime in the V ictorian period and has remained little changed ever since: one room for the drinkers, the others for the family that owns it.
And it's been run by the same family for over a century.
Our sat nav initially took us to a random spot surrounded by fields with no buildings in sight.
Then, after we'd finally worked out that we were actually a mile or so from where we should be, we found ourselves driving the rest of the route at walking pace - or rather at the walking pace of the herd of dairy cows that were being led very slowly down the narrow country road ahead of us.
When we finally got to the pub, it didn't look like a pub at all, an impression reinforced by the appearance of the barman.
He looked at least 85-years-old and appeared to have fallen asleep in an armchair while watching daytime TV very loudly in his front room.
When he finally stirred and noticed that he had customers, he directed us to the small public area of the pub while disappearing behind a hatch to serve us.
There was no conventional bar as such, just that hole in the wall separating us from him.
The choices were Bass ale poured from a barrel and served from a jug - or two or three room temperature other dusty bottled drinks of unpromising appearance.
Never mind drinks like a glass of Prosecco, the pub didn't even have lager.
The snacks also had a retro quality: I noticed a Curly Wurly that was on sale, so leave your ideas of being able to order your Kettle crisps here.
And the public area was decidedly unlike a conventional modern boozer.
There was no banquette seating or any other concessions to comfort, just austere straight-backed wooden chairs and benches that looked like they might have done several decades of previous service as church pews.
There was minimal decoration save a few vintage pictures including one of the late queen - and the paintwork looked as though it hadn't been redecorated since she came to the throne in 1952.
My wife, demonstrating an extraordinary degree of optimism, actually inquired 'what wines' they kept, as if there might be an extensive list.
7
7
The question was met with a rather blank stare, with a slight bit of side eye thrown in.
She eventually asked for a cider, along with my beer - and of course had the option of only paying with cash.
There were no screens (except that TV you could still hear booming from the private front room next door), no music, no phone signal and no wifi.
Yet to some, having no distractions of any kind would be a welcome respite from the bustling pubs found elsewhere.
And the only customers were us, being so quiet I wondered if we might be the only customers that week.
This place might not be for everyone but for me it was a long cherished ambition to get here and it didn't disappoint.
Because, in some beardie real ale circles, the Dyffryn is a legendary pub, a holy grail for the serious pub enthusiast or social historian.
7
CAMRA (the Campaign for Real Ale) describes its interior as 'of outstanding national historic importance' while National Geographic called the pub a 'time warp tavern'.
But you will just have to remember to commit to finding it, as it isn't one you will easily wander past.
The previous manager, one Bessie Davies, had operated the pub's hatch for 72 years by the time she passed away aged 93 in 2023.
In tribute her family have done absolutely nothing: keeping it as Bessie kept it and her fans like it.
At one point a lot of country pubs would have been like this.
In Thomas Hardy's famous Victorian novel Tess of the D'Urbervilles, his village has a pub like this where overspilling punters will often end up drinking in the landlady's bedroom, perched on her bed or chest of drawers while supping ale.
The Dyffryn is the closest I've ever come to seeing such a phenomenon in real modern life.
I would feel guilty publicising The Dyffryn's extraordinary charm in case this were to see it overrun, but in reality most people reading this will never get there, and the few that do make the effort deserve the treat that awaits them.
I just hope that when their time comes Bessie's grandchildren are as respectful of the past as to leave this winning formula alone.
That's an ambition worth drinking to.
There is also a small English pub that overlooks one of the UK's best secret beaches.
Plus, the best pubs in the UK have been revealed.
7

Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles


Telegraph
2 hours ago
- Telegraph
The best pubs and bars in Northern Ireland
Think of Northern Ireland, and thoughts of a good pub probably aren't too far behind. This is a place with an excellent pub scene, with hundreds of traditional boozers where you can enjoy a pint by the fireside, as music plays. But there's also a burgeoning cocktail scene, particularly in Belfast, and tiny old bars that are best to cosy up in with the paper for a few hours, when it's blowing a gale outside. Whatever you're after, here are some of the best places for a tipple in Northern Ireland. All our recommendations below have been hand selected and tested by our resident destination expert to help you discover the best things to do in Northern Ireland. Find out more below, or for further inspiration, explore our guides to Northern Ireland's best hotels, things to do, restaurants and beaches. Search nightlife by type: Best traditional pubs Crown Liquor Saloon The poster child for Northern Irish pubs, the Crown Liquor Saloon is one of those rarities that's enjoyed by locals and tourists alike. Its elaborate Victorian exterior (preserved by the National Trust, no less) is matched by a darkly cosy space inside, with carved mahogany partitions, stained glass and gunmetal plates where patrons would strike matches. Nowadays, punters make do with pints of Cornish pale ale or a snifter of Bushmills whiskey. Blake's of the Hollow A traditional boozer, The Hollow feels like it hasn't changed a jot since it opened its doors in 1887. The front bar, with its tiled floors, marble bar top and lamppost style light fixtures, is perpetually cosy, and is at its best on a quiet afternoon, when you can sit with a pint and the paper. If you prefer something a little less low-key, there's live traditional music every Friday night. The Duke of York It may be one of the most popular pubs in Belfast, but walking down the cobbled alley to its entrance always feels special. That alleyway, with dozens of flower-filled hanging baskets and vintage Guinness signs, is cracking on a sunny day, but the interior is the epitome of cosiness, with a brick bar, low ceilings and weathered floor tiles. Nab a seat by the vintage printing press, to see if you can spot the dirty words hidden in the lettering. Sunflower Though the Sunflower name on the door is relatively new, this spot has been the home to a pub for over 100 years. The entrance is distinctive, with a bright green cage over the door (leftover from The Troubles) and the sign outside is one of the most photographed in Belfast: 'No topless sunbathing. Ulster has suffered enough'. There aren't any bells and whistles inside, but an excellent selection of craft beers like Yardsman stout and Kinnegar ales, and there's a beer garden, too. Best for live music Peadar O'Donnell's A minimalist's nightmare, this pub has paraphernalia hanging from every inch of space, from antique sewing machines to a proliferation of flags. As such, it feels like a quintessential Irish pub, particularly in the evening, with traditional musicians filling the room with song. Get a low table in the corner, order a well-poured pint of Guinness, and listen to the masters at work. House of McDonnell Owned by the same family for almost 300 years, this listed building is where you'll find some of the best traditional music in the country, with a session every Friday night, and other gigs throughout the week. It's on the Ballycastle Trad Music Trail, and it's even been name checked in some traditional Irish songs and poems. There's a charming little outdoor area, with weathered brick walls and wooden seats, and it's open until 1am. Best for chic cocktails The Cocktail Bar at The Merchant If you'd rather drink a negroni in style than step over a sticky, beer-stained floor, The Cocktail Bar in The Merchant Hotel is a great choice. This relatively small bar has a sophisticated, old-world sense of style, with plenty of dark wood, burgundy velvet armchairs and an antique fireplace. More importantly, the cocktails are impeccable, and you're served a little 'browsing drink' made with Jawbox gin, while you peruse the menu. Rattlebag Don't be put off by the fact that this cocktail bar is inside a hotel – this intimate spot has built up some serious kudos since it opened, with a menu that changes with the seasons and a series of pop-up collaborations with hip wine bars and musical folks. Expect to see quirky ingredients shaken up with classics, like pine distillate in a martini or cumin tincture in a gimlet. Best for cosy vibes The 1614 Bar Part of the historic, thatched Old Inn, this pub feels like a traditional carriage house, with low ceilings, thick wooden beams and roaring fires. It can get busy in the evening, when there's live sport on or a local band playing, but it's an ideal spot for a quiet Irish coffee if you've been out walking in the Crawfordsburn Country Park. They also serve food at lunchtime, with pub food like smoked haddock or fish and chips. Daft Eddy's Technically, this is more a seafood restaurant than a standalone pub, but the bar is lovely and cosy (and if it's sunny, the outdoor tables right on the water are perfect). Plus, if you're coming from Portaferry, you can take a 10-minute ferry journey to save you the drive, which adds to the novelty factor. Area: Strangford Lough Website: Price: £ How we choose Every bar, venue or experience in this curated list has been tried and tested by our destination expert, who has visited to provide you with their insider perspective. We cover a range of budgets and styles, from casual pubs to exquisite cocktail bars – to best suit every type of traveller – and consider the service, drinks, atmosphere and price in our recommendations. We update this list regularly to keep up with the latest openings and provide up to date recommendations. About our expert Nicola Brady I'm originally from Sussex, and I went on holiday to Ireland 16 years ago and never came back. While I'm now based in Dublin, I spent a decade living on the Northern Irish border and still visit regularly.


Telegraph
7 hours ago
- Telegraph
The joys of an English beer garden – and my pick of the very best
On a recent Friday afternoon, the garden at Tuckers Grave, a legendary cider-focused pub in Somerset, was abuzz with human activity – and canine activity, too. A spaniel was loudly insistent that he should meet a nearby Alsatian; happily, his human companions quickly acquiesced. Before long they were chatting to the Alsatian's owners, too. When the sun shines, the action at England's best pubs moves outdoors. Not all of them have a garden, but those that do have made very good use of them recently. I spent the period from March to June touring the country, conducting last-minute research for my guide to England's 500 best pubs. The weather was superb, more often than not. Pub gardens from Newcastle to Zennor in Cornwall resounded to the hubbub of happy drinkers. There was the Bridge Inn in Topsham, where cyclists queued at a hatch for beer and sandwiches before taking a seat with a view of the delightful Clyst river; more cyclists at the Plasterers Arms in Hoylake, first to the bar when it opened at 12pm before claiming a spot in the sun outside; exuberant Geordie youth at the Free Trade Inn in Newcastle, enjoying the last rays of a glorious April weekend overlooking the Tyne; and dozens of drinkers in the garden at the Fleece, Bretforton, where the grassy outdoor space stretches endlessly away into the distance. Some outdoor spaces reflect their locality in an uncanny fashion. I'm thinking of the large yard at The Barrels in Hereford, packed with young and old on an overcast Saturday evening, more like a town square than a pub garden; or the hillside garden at The Fox and Goose in charming, quirky Hebden Bridge, accessed via a staircase inside the pub. This languid space, pockmarked with flora and patios, stretches far up the adjoining hill. When I visited recently I watched a man climb up and up, until finally he found a spot in the sunshine. A modern phenomenon – with German roots These gardens seem quintessentially English, but they haven't always played such a key role in our pub culture. They enjoyed a boost between the wars, when middle-class disapproval led to the phenomenon of the 'Improved Pub', which aimed to do away with the gin-drenched excesses of Victorian England (there was a renewed campaign in the Sixties and Seventies, too, driven in part by brewery-run competitions to find the prettiest gardens). At pubs like the now demolished Downham Tavern in South London, opened in 1930, family-friendly gardens formed a key part of the battle against overindulgence. This Presbyterian instinct has nothing to do with Bavaria, where beer comes second only to God, but the term 'beer garden' surely does. It is a direct steal from the German biergarten, and the tradition of drinking outside has deeper roots there, too. There are few pleasures in life greater than settling in under a chestnut tree at a Bavarian biergarten on a warm day. Many of the best examples are in Franconia, Bavaria's northern third, although my favourite is in Austria: the Augustiner Braustübl in Salzburg. England's beer gardens are a bit different from their Germanic cousins, though. They're less well organised, for a start, a rather on-the-nose reflection of our divergent national characters. The best often have a slightly ramshackle feel, with mismatched tables here and there, both in and out of the sunshine; people stand, pints in hand or perched precariously on window sills and walls. They can be chaotic, uproarious, a vision of Hogarthian excess – although in that regard, at least, there's a definite kinship with Munich's classic biergarten. They're lovely when quiet, too. One of the great joys is arriving on a warm afternoon to discover you have a magnificent beer garden all to yourself. This happened to me at the Ypres Castle in Rye, where the garden sits beneath Rye Castle and looks out across Romney Marsh. In that respect it's like many of the best beer gardens: comfortable and bucolic, with plenty of space and a marvellous view over the English landscape. You might get a wasp in your beer, but it doesn't seem so bad if you've got something nice to look at. By and large, I think, the best beer gardens are in the countryside – but they're no more cherished than those in our cities. The tables outside the Lord Clyde in Borough, for example, are nothing to write home about, but with the pub's gorgeous tiled exterior looming over them, they fill up fast at the end of the working day. I've found myself here on more than a few occasions. Many of us, I'm sure, had our first pub experience in a garden somewhere, enjoying a glass of pop and a packet of crisps. Perhaps that's why we enjoy them so much, or perhaps it's because, as on that sunny afternoon at Tucker's Grave, they often show us at our relaxed, sociable best – dogs as well as humans.


The Sun
11 hours ago
- The Sun
The hidden gem seaside town nestled in the UK with the ‘greatest' castle and local puffins
IF you're contemplating a UK break over the summer holidays, there's a town that you may not have heard of which is perfect - and it's one of Europe's top 50 hidden gems. Beaumaris in Wales took the tenth spot on an expert list of discovered destinations in Europe, thanks to its long pier, pretty beach and there's even a nearby island which is home to colonies of puffins. 4 4 According to holiday rental site Home to Go, Beaumaris is the tenth best hidden gem in the whole of Europe. The town is said to be ideal for "the explorer who's enchanted by rugged shorelines, medieval castles, and boat trips to wild islands". Beaumaris is a seaside town on the Isle of Anglesey, packed with charming pubs, cafes and beaches. Those looking for a more cultural break are also in luck, as it has a stunning castle dating back to the 13th century. It's known as the greatest ever built because it was the last of the royal strongholds created by Edward I in Wales – and perhaps his masterpiece. The castle is surrounded by a moat and has spellbinding views over Snowdonia, and tickets to look around it and the grounds are just £10.50 per adult. Beaumaris has a beach for those keen to get some steps in, but its not advisable for swimmers as it's near the Menai Straits - known for strong tidal currents. One visitor raved about the town on Tripadvisor: "Just beautiful! Love this place and would definitely recommend a visit for a relaxed atmosphere with stunning views." The up-and-coming English seaside town with cheap booze and huge beaches 4 Another added: "This small beach with backdrop of pastel painted houses has some absolutely stunning views of the mountains." Near the beach is Beaumaris Pier, which originally opened in 1846 and rebuilt in 1872. These days it's a popular spot for crabbing and has a small kiosk near the entrance where you can nab an ice-cream or hot drink, plus souvenirs and beach toys. From Beaumaris you can easily get to Puffin Island, an uninhabited area off the eastern tip of Anglesey, on one of the regular boat trips or cruises. It's a wildlife hub for Atlantic grey seals as well as puffins - and if you're lucky you might also get a glimpse of porpoises and dolphins in the surrounding waters. Although most definitely a hidden gem, Beaumaris also has the backing of Which? - which put it high on a list of the best seaside towns in the UK last year. The Welsh town came in 25th place with a reader vote of 74 per cent. Plus, the . And the Welsh seaside town named one of the cheapest places for a UK beach break – with hotels under £20 a night. 4