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The Mainichi
09-08-2025
- The Mainichi
Japan Uncovered #4: Snow shapes life in agricultural rich Minamiuonuma in Niigata Pref.
Coordinators for international relations from around the world are responsible for international exchange activities across Japan. In this series, they share the charms of the municipalities where they live and work. *** Minamiuonuma is a city where snow and humans coexist in Niigata Prefecture. Located in the heart of Japan's snow country, or as it is officially designated, "gousetsu chitai" (special heavy snowfall region), an average year sees the city covered in two meters or more of snow throughout the winter. The remarkable way life here has been shaped by the snow since long ago was famously depicted by the 18th century merchant, Suzuki Bokushi, in his book, "Snow Country Tales," which became a best-seller. The iconic restored Edo-era townscape that fronts Shiozawa Station, Bokushi-dori street, bears his name. Minamiuonuma's thriving industries, from Japan's top-rated Koshihikari rice and world-famous Hakkaisan sake brewery to its numerous destination ski resorts, are all in one way or another made possible thanks to the snow. Mount Hakkai offers spectacular views all year round The stark mountains that flank Minamiuonuma's lush fields on the east and west provide any number of breathtaking vistas, but Hakkaisan, or Mt. Hakkai, with its distinctive jagged eight peaks particularly stands out -- and is the perfect place to experience the breadth of what Minamiuonuma has to offer. The Hakkaisan Ropeway shuttles skiers and snowboarders to some of the city's most premium powder snow runs in the winter, hikers to gorgeous trails during the green season, and anyone who simply wants their breath taken away to jaw-dropping views all year round. At the base, one will find the Hakkaisanroku Cycling Terminal, offering bicycle rentals of both the mountain and road variety for those who prefer to take in the idyllic rural scenery on two wheels. Finally, there is the eponymous Hakkaisan sake brewery. Tours are available of the brewery's "yukimuro" (natural snow cellar), a fascinating example of how the wisdom of snow country from ages past is still being practically applied today. Every year, snow accumulated on the mountaintops melts throughout the spring and summer, filters through the soil, and flows down as pure and delicious natural spring water, which is then used to brew the sake and water the rice that Minamiuonuma is known for. Because of this and other unique aspects of the area's climate and geography, the brand of rice grown here, Uonuma Koshihikri, is consistently of exceptionally high quality. It is even regarded as the best in Japan, having received the Japan Grain Inspection Association's highest rating more times than any other variety. The city's three sake breweries, Takachiyo, Aoki, and Hakkaisan, are each renowned as well, locally, domestically, and internationally, respectively. In a big move, Hakkaisan has recently partnered with the Los Angeles Dodgers as the team's official sake. Try various kinds of 'majidon' Of course, anyone visiting Minamiuonuma would be remiss not to taste the homegrown Koshihikari rice, and the best way to do so is by eating "majidon" ("don" as in "donburi," or rice bowl and "maji," meaning serious). Majidon is served up seasonally in restaurants throughout the city starting in October, coinciding with the yearly rice harvest. Every shop offers a different take -- some, for example, make a "chirashi-don" topped with sashimi, while others do a "katsu-don" topped with a fried pork cutlet -- a few even serve "kirizai-don," a historical dish unlikely to be found anywhere else that is topped with natto and local pickled vegetables. What all majidon have in common is an extra-large helping of freshly harvested Koshihikari rice. Majidon is available until the end of February, so it's worth trying as many as possible while it lasts. City information Population: 51,666 (as of June 2025) Number of foreign residents: 1,274 (as of June 2025) Area: 584.55 square kilometers Convenient access to the city: Urasa Station (Joetsu Shinkansen) About the writer Name: Timothy Folsom Country of origin: United States of America Years living in Japan: Three Favorite Japanese foods: Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki and spicy miso ramen Favorite thing about Japan: Tea ceremony
Metropolis Japan
25-05-2025
- Metropolis Japan
Historic Walks Near Tokyo
Photo Credit to Iyhon Chiu (Flickr) Japan's northern Tohoku region was once a rugged land of deep mountains and wild forests. Anyone traveling there during the ordered days of the Edo period was thought to be risking life and limb for very little gain. Yet people still traveled, and one way of doing so was via the old Nikko Kaido highway. Built to safely connect Edo to the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu in Nikko, its construction had the unintended effect of solidifying the master status of one of the world's greatest poets. One of the most atmospheric historic walks near Tokyo can be found in Soka, where pine-lined paths trace the journey of haiku master Matsuo Basho. Portrait of Bashō by Hokusai, late 18th century A person would be hard-pressed not to have heard of haiku master, Matsuo Basho. His travels across Japan fine-tuned his poetic craft to such an extent that he became one of Japan's greatest cultural exports. Even now, over three hundred years after his passing, there are still few who could seriously claim to have bettered his art. Often translated as The Narrow Road to the Deep North , his most famous work, the travelogue Oku no Hosomichi , owes its inspiration to Basho's journeys into Japan's wilds, a journey he began from the Nikko Kaido highway. Beginning in what is now Kita-Senju in East Tokyo, Basho soon arrived at the highway's second post station, Soka. The city, once verdantly agricultural, is famous for its senbei rice crackers and commuter town university life, but perhaps owes a verse or two to Basho. His words, ' We barely managed to reach the post-town of Soka by nightfall. My greatest burden was the pack I carried on my thin, bony shoulders. ' An inauspicious start, perhaps, but Soka was now permanently scribed on the map. Leaving the next day, Basho traveled further, wrote deeper, and became a national legend. The city maintains its connection with Basho's Edo-era times. During those years, hundreds of pine trees were planted along the Nikko Kaido highway. These trees, including more recently planted ones, still line what is now the Soka Matsubara Promenade. It's a designated National Place of Scenic Beauty. At the time of its recognition in 2013, there were 634 pine trees lining the promenade. The city has worked hard to ensure that the legacy of Basho, as well as its own, remains accessible. Replete with reminders of Basho, the promenade follows the north-south flow of the Ayase River. It is an extension of the area's Fudabagashi Park. Standing sentinel at the entrance to the promenade as it leads north is a replica wooden Edo period bourou watchtower. Once used for spotting fires in flammable old Japan, the tower's crisp geometric shape marks the metaphorical border between Basho's old life and the new one he would come into during his travels. A beautiful touch, a little further on, is the lifesize bronze statue of Basho. He glances backwards towards the old city of Edo as he steps forward into the north. Watching over it is a verse engraved in stone by the esteemed scholar of Japanese literature, the late Donald Keene. A hagi bush-clover tree planted by Keene further honors Basho's connection with Soka. The promenade features two particularly impressive bridges. One, Yatate Bridge, was so named because of a famous line in Basho's travel diary that references the portable yatate brush-and-ink case he used to begin his writing. Yatate Bridge. Photo from Japan Travel The bridge's arched structure offers elevated views of both the pine trees and the river. Further along, an even more impressive bridge is the similarly arched Hyakutai Bridge. Inspired by the very first line of Oku no Hosomichi, hyakutai literally means '100 generations' and refers to eternity. The pines of the promenade certainly seem peacefully ageless. Given the influence of Basho's poetry, the naming of this bridge is most appropriate. As if a nationally recognized promenade wasn't enough, the city celebrates Matsuo Basho's place in its history with the annual Soka Matsubara Dream Festival. Making its debut in 2015, this relative newcomer to the summer festival scene takes place on the first weekend of July. It features some lovely night illumination of the promenade's pine trees as well as the Yatate and Hyakutai bridges. Traditional Japanese street stalls are, of course, aplenty, while boat rides along the Ayase River are a popular attraction. Each year, the organizers find new ways to appear, with some years seeing rickshaw and even hot-air balloon rides. Japan has changed incredibly since the three centuries when Basho left the old Edo capital on his journey into the wild lands. What hasn't changed, however, is the extraordinary respect and admiration that one of Japan's greatest masters continues to inspire. Small though it may have been, Soka's role in nurturing that inspiration was both real and pivotal. It's now easily enjoyed by thousands of visitors annually. Take the Tobu Skytree Line to Dokkyo Daigaku Mae Station (formerly known as Matsubara Danchi Station) to access this historic walk near Tokyo. The Soka Matsubara Promenade is just a five-minute walk from the East Exit. For easy day-trips near Tokyo, check out our other guides: Kawagoe Day Trip: Historic Streets, Sweet Shops and Edo-Era Charm Kanagawa Neighborhood Guide: Things to Do in Yokosuka
Metropolis Japan
22-05-2025
- Metropolis Japan
In the Footsteps of Basho
Photo Credit to Iyhon Chiu (Flickr) Japan's northern Tohoku region was once a rugged land of deep mountains and wild forests. Anyone traveling there during the ordered days of the Edo period was thought to be risking life and limb for very little gain. Yet people still traveled, and one way of doing so was via the old Nikko Kaido highway. Built to safely connect Edo to the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu in Nikko, its construction had the unintended effect of solidifying the master status of one of the world's greatest poets. The Master of Masters A person would be hard-pressed not to have heard of haiku master, Matsuo Basho. His travels across Japan fine-tuned his poetic craft to such an extent that he became one of Japan's greatest cultural exports. Even now, over three hundred years after his passing, there are still few who could seriously claim to have bettered his art. Often translated as The Narrow Road to the Deep North , his most famous work, the travelogue Oku no Hosomichi , owes its inspiration to Basho's journeys into Japan's wilds, a journey he began from the Nikko Kaido highway. Soka on the Map Beginning in what is now Kita-Senju in East Tokyo, Basho soon arrived at the highway's second post station, Soka. The city, once verdantly agricultural, is known for its senbei rice crackers and commuter town university life, but perhaps owes a verse or two to Basho. His words, ' We barely managed to reach the post-town of Soka by nightfall. My greatest burden was the pack I carried on my thin, bony shoulders. ' An inauspicious start, perhaps, but Soka was now permanently scribed on the map. Leaving the next day, Basho traveled further, wrote deeper and became a national legend. Hundreds of Trees, Hundreds of Years The city maintains its connection with Basho's Edo-era times. During those years, hundreds of pine trees were planted along the Nikko Kaido highway. These trees, including more recently planted ones, still line what is now the Soka Matsubara Promenade, a designated National Place of Scenic Beauty. At the time of its recognition in 2013, there were 634 pine trees lining the promenade and the city has worked hard to ensure that the legacy of Basho, as well as its own, remains accessible. Replete with reminders of Basho, the promenade follows the north-south flow of the Ayase River and is an extension of the area's Fudabagashi Park. Standing Watch Standing sentinel at the entrance to the promenade as it leads north is a replica wooden Edo period bourou watchtower. Once used for spotting fires in flammable old Japan, the tower's crisp geometric shape marks the metaphorical border between Basho's old life and the new one he would come into during his travels. A beautiful touch, a little further on, is the lifesize bronze statue of Basho glancing backwards towards the old city of Edo as he steps forward into the north. Watching over it all is a short verse engraved in stone by the esteemed scholar of Japanese literature, the late Donald Keene, while a hagi bush-clover tree planted by Keene further honors Basho's connection with Soka. The Two Bridges The promenade features two particularly impressive bridges. One, Yatate Bridge, was so named because of a famous line in Basho's travel diary that references the portable yatate brush-and-ink case he used to begin his writing. The bridge's arched structure offers elevated views of both the pine trees and the river, while further along, an even more impressive bridge is the similarly arched Hyakutai Bridge. Inspired by the very first line of Oku no Hosomichi, hyakutai literally means '100 generations' and refers to eternity. The pines of the promenade certainly seem peacefully ageless, and given the influence of Basho's poetry, the naming of this bridge is most appropriate. Soka's Tribute Festival As if a nationally recognised promenade wasn't enough, the city celebrates Matsuo Basho's place in its history with the annual Soka Matsubara Dream Festival. First held in 2015, this relative newcomer to the summer festival scene is held on the first weekend of July and features some lovely night illumination of the promenade's pine trees as well as the Yatate and Hyakutai bridges. Traditional Japanese street stalls are, of course, aplenty, while boat rides along the Ayase River are a popular attraction. Each year, the organizers find new ways to appear, with some years seeing rickshaw and even hot-air balloon rides. Japan has changed incredibly since the three centuries when Basho left the old Edo capital on his journey into the wild lands. What hasn't changed, however, is the extraordinary respect and admiration that one of Japan's greatest masters continues to inspire. Small though it may have been, Soka's role in nurturing that inspiration was both real and pivotal and is now easily enjoyed by thousands of visitors annually. Getting There Take the Tobu Skytree Line to Dokkyo Daigaku Mae Station (formerly known as Matsubara Danchi Station). The Soka Matsubara Promenade is a five-minute walk from the East Exit.
Metropolis Japan
20-05-2025
- Metropolis Japan
Kawagoe Day Trip
Saitama Prefecture is a brewery townscape in Kawagoe City. A famous tourist destination in the Kanto region. Just 30 minutes from central Tokyo, Kawagoe in Saitama Prefecture feels like stepping into another century. With preserved Edo-era architecture, merchant history, and retro storefronts, this city known as 'Little Edo,' is a rewarding day trip from Tokyo's high-rises. Whether you're chasing cultural landmarks, local snacks or quiet charm, a Kawagoe day trip offers more than enough for a full-day adventure—especially for photographers, families or anyone burnt out on the bustle. The heart of Kawagoe's historic district is Kurazukuri Street. Here, low-slung buildings made of clay and tile evoke the fire-resistant warehouse style of the Edo Period. Some were rebuilt after the devastating 1893 fire, while others have been lovingly preserved. Shops line the street selling everything from handmade ceramics to roasted green tea, and on weekends, you'll spot locals in kimono browsing side by side with tourists. Don't miss: The architecture along Taisho Roman Dori Souvenir shops tucked into old kura storehouses The occasional aroma of roasted sweet potato Rising above the rooftops is the Toki no Kane (Time Bell Tower), which still chimes four times a day. Originally built in the 1600s, this wooden landmark has been rebuilt several times but remains Kawagoe's most enduring symbol. It's not just a photo stop—it's a soundscape, too. Time your visit with the chime at noon for the full effect. Candy Alley, or Kashiya Yokocho, is pure joy. This narrow lane is lined with old-fashioned candy shops that feel untouched by time. It began in the Meiji Period and still thrives today. Inside the shops, you'll find: Bright red candied apples Soy sauce-flavored rice crackers Whimsical handmade candies in animal shapes Classic Japanese toys and tops The vibe is playful, chaotic and sweet. Kids will love it. So will grown-ups who remember when candy came in paper bags—not plastic. Kawagoe's nickname, 'Koedo' or 'Little Edo,' isn't just clever branding—it reflects the city's historic role as a commercial outpost that helped support the Tokugawa shogunate during the Edo Period. Because of its strategic importance and proximity to Edo (now Tokyo), Kawagoe prospered as a merchant town and was known for its fire-resistant kura storehouses and samurai residences. Learn more about the historical significance of fire safety in our article: Edo's Inked Heroes: Edo Firefighters. Much of this legacy survived—or was rebuilt—after major fires in the 1800s. Today, its layout and architecture still reflect that Edo influence, earning it the designation as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings. Kawagoe's museums are small, local and personal. Skip the giant exhibitions and enjoy these more intimate spots: Kurazukuri Museum: Housed in a former tobacco merchant's residence. Dive into Edo fire safety and merchant culture. (Note: the museum is currently going through Earthquake-related renovations and is temporarily closed.) Yamazaki Art Museum: Features a modest but meaningful collection from local artists inside a former warehouse. Osawa Residence: Built in 1792, this is the oldest remaining storehouse in town. It's free to admire from outside and worth seeking out. Each stop feels like a secret—perfect for travelers who prefer to wander slowly and soak things in. All that walking and sightseeing builds an appetite. Kawagoe has plenty of food options—from traditional sweets to stylish cafés and hearty teishoku [set meals]. Unagi Denbe – A popular spot for unagi [grilled eel], a long-standing specialty in Kawagoe. [grilled eel], a long-standing specialty in Kawagoe. Pizzeria Pino – Unexpectedly authentic Napoli-style pizza. Yamawa – A cozy café inside a local gift shop, known for its sweet potato mini-kaiseki and seasonal drinks like iced matcha in summer and red bean soup in winter. Rengetsu Café – Known for its vintage interiors and fluffy French toast. Tsubakiya Foot Spa Tearoom – Sip on tea and sweets while resting your feet in a warm outdoor footbath. Koedo Kurari – A renovated sake brewery turned food hall and souvenir shop. Try their sake tasting set and grab some handmade snacks. The Kawagoe Festival is one of the region's most beloved traditions. Held every third weekend in October, the celebration includes towering floats, music, and dancing that overtakes the whole city. Can't make it in the fall? Visit the Kawagoe Festival Museum to see the floats up close and learn about the tradition year-round. Kawagoe is surprisingly walkable, but if you want to rest your feet, the Koedo Loop Bus is convenient. It runs every 30 minutes and links all the main stations—Kawagoe, Hon-Kawagoe, and Kawagoe-shi—with stops near all major landmarks. On foot, you'll likely stumble into cozy cafés, retro kissaten, and quiet backstreets that offer their own charm. Stop for a coffee, browse a tiny antique shop, or just sit and take it all in. For more day trip ideas from Tokyo, check out our other guides: Tokyo Neighborhood Guide: A Day Trip to Okutama Enoshima Day Trip: Caves, Shrines, Sea Views and a Taste of Mythology
Metropolis Japan
07-05-2025
- Metropolis Japan
Finding Central Tokyo
Tokyo in the evening sun. Image credit: Gri-spb / i Stock Finding central Tokyo sounds easy, right? At first glance, finding a city's center seems simple. London calls its center 'central,' New York claims Manhattan, and Sydney points to Circular Quay. Most cities designate a central hub for business, commerce, and culture—often called the downtown or CBD. In Tokyo, however, the picture gets murkier. Locals, expats, and tourists can't agree on a single ward that defines Tokyo's center. Still, many argue over where it should be. The debate draws on location, history, and present-day relevance, with six wards in particular competing for the title of central Tokyo. Before it became Tokyo, people knew the city as Edo. Originally a small castle village on Japan's east coast, Edo gained prominence when the Tokugawa Shogunate established its seat of power there in 1603. By the 18th century, Edo had already grown into one of the world's largest metropolises. Samurai and nobles settled in Yamanote, but the city's heart beat in the shitamachi—or 'downtown'—where commoners lived. Narrow streets and dense populations defined the shitamachi, creating a vibrant, chaotic scene of Edo-era life. Merchants and artisans flocked to the area, navigating a grid of streets and an intricate canal system. Today, Taito Ward encompasses much of this historic area. A visit to the iconic Senso-Ji temple or a walk through Ueno's bustling streets can instantly transport visitors back to the heart of old Edo. The Kaminarimon, the outer of two large entrance gates, leading to the Senso-Ji temple. Image credit: coward_lion / iStock . When Japan's capital moved from Kyoto to Tokyo, officials established the Imperial Palace in the heart of the city—Chiyoda. Soon after, builders developed Marunouchi, just steps from the palace gardens, as Tokyo's central business district. With its grandeur and prestige, Marunouchi has played a vital role in driving Japan's economic growth and continues to serve as a cornerstone of Asia's financial sector. One crucial factor in the debate over Tokyo's center is the location of Tokyo Station, situated on Marunouchi's eastern edge. Since its opening in 1914, Tokyo Station has served as the main entry point for domestic travelers arriving in the capital. Planners deliberately positioned it to link Ueno and Nihonbashi through the city's most esteemed geographic and commercial hub. Boats and blossoming cherry trees in Kitamaru Park in Chiyoda. Image credit: idmanjoe / iStock. The name 'Chuo' directly translates to 'center,' and few can deny its relevance in the debate over Tokyo's core. Established in 1947 during Japan's post-WWII recovery, city planners created the ward to serve as a commercial hub and help rebuild Japan's economy. Chuo once housed the city's silver and gold coin-making mints and hosted Japan's first department store—the Nihombashi Mitsukoshi Main Store. Today, Chuo continues to thrive as a global shopping destination. The former gold mint now serves as the Bank of Japan's headquarters, and Ginza has evolved into a luxury retail district filled with department stores and designer boutiques. Interested to know the hidden side of Ginza? Read our guide for the neighborhood here. The busy shopping streets of Ginza. Image credit: Sean Pavone Photo / iStock. Major global companies like Apple, Goldman Sachs, and Baidu have chosen Roppongi for their Japan headquarters, solidifying Minato's role at the heart of Tokyo's international business scene. The ward also carries historic diplomatic weight. During the Edo period, regional daimyo (lords) built residences in the area, effectively creating early domain embassies. Over time, many of these residences transformed into foreign embassies, which explains why Minato now hosts a high concentration of consulates, including those of the U.S., Australia, and China. As the 20th century came to a close, major real estate developments accelerated Minato's growth. By the mid-2000s, its modern skyline embodied wealth, luxury, and Tokyo's forward-looking spirit. Today, Minato brims with fine dining, art galleries, and a dynamic nightlife. It also boasts Tokyo's tallest building, Azabudai Hills, alongside the iconic Tokyo Tower. Want to see the Tokyo Tower from all the best angles whilst catching up on some exercise? Head to our article about the cycling route that takes you on the Tokyo Tower Tour. The iconic Tokyo Tower lights up at night in Roppongi. Image credit: CreativeJP / iStock. Chiyoda may host the city's central station, but Shinjuku claims the title of busiest—not just in Japan, but in the world. Shinjuku Station moves an astounding 3.4 million passengers daily, operating 12 lines across 36 platforms. The station connects directly to nearly every major hub in Tokyo, making Shinjuku a vital gateway to the entire city. Supporters of Shinjuku argue that the ward has emerged in recent decades as Tokyo's true downtown. It offers a bit of everything—from the tranquility of Shinjuku Gyoen and the heritage of Hanazono Shrine to the vibrant queer culture of Nichome, one of the world's most densely concentrated LGBTQ+ districts. Head north and you'll step into Okubo, Tokyo's Koreatown, where kbbq restaurants, skincare shops, and K-pop clubs draw crowds day and night. Shinjuku's neon-lit high streets have come to symbolize Tokyo itself, and many consider a visit here essential to experiencing the city. The neon-lit crossing of Kabukicho in Shinjuku. Image credit: Urbanscape / iStock. Many holidaymakers choose to stay in Shibuya—and for good reason. Much of Tokyo's energy centers around this vibrant ward. While tourists flock to icons like Hachiko, Shibuya Crossing, and the colorful streets of Harajuku, Shibuya offers far more than its famous landmarks. It operates like a city within a city, with countless music venues, the open-air freedom of Yoyogi Park, and the culinary delights of Ebisu. Visitors could easily spend an entire week here without ever stepping outside the ward. On the commercial front, Shibuya overflows with shopping destinations and continues to grow as a business hub. Increasing numbers of companies—especially in tech and startups—have relocated their headquarters to the area, reinforcing its status as a center of innovation and commerce. The always busy Shibuya crossing. Image credit: Nuthawut Somsuk / iStock. Clearly, no single definition can pinpoint Tokyo's true city center. A salaryman working in Roppongi might see Minato as the core, while a tourist might argue for Shibuya. Chuo claims the center in a literal sense, but Chiyoda holds it in another. As the idea of a city center has evolved, so has Tokyo itself. After beginning as Edo, the city became Japan's capital in 1868. It endured near-total destruction during WWII, then rapidly rebuilt and expanded throughout the 20th century. By 2024, Tokyo had grown into a city of over 14 million residents and welcomed an additional 35 million tourists. This growth has created a sprawling, decentralized metropolis layered with history, industry, and culture. Rather than form around a single hub, Tokyo has adapted across centuries—reshaping and reinventing itself with each era. It lacks a definitive center not by accident, but by deliberate evolution.
