Latest news with #Filson
Miami Herald
22-04-2025
- Business
- Miami Herald
At Seattle's Filson, challenge of reshoring US factory jobs is clear
As U.S. politicians promise to rebuild American manufacturing with tariffs, the transformation of Filson, Seattle-born maker of rugged, high-end apparel, shows just how complicated that task could be. At Filson's flagship store-workshop on First Avenue South, visitors can still watch workers busily assembling the company's $550 Filson Mackinaw Cruisers, $325 Western Vests and $275 Mackinaw Wool Vests. But those three are the only items still made at the shop, out of hundreds in the 128-year-old company's current catalog. And the busy production staff, which was recently transferred from Filson's soon-to-close facility in Kent, numbers just 12 - a fraction of the company's local production team from even a decade ago. In 2016, four years after Filson was acquired by Texas-based Bedrock Manufacturing, it employed roughly 160 production workers in the Seattle area, according to the workers' union. The shrinking of Filson's Seattle-area manufacturing workforce parallels the broader decline in U.S. apparel production as companies have grappled with pandemic-related disruptions and inflation on top of decades of foreign competition. In 2015, The Seattle Times reported that Filson made 90% of its clothes, bags and other products in the United States, including in Seattle workshops. Today, according to Filson, just 35% of its products are made in the U.S., much of that by an outside vendor near Los Angeles, where Filson outsourced two-thirds of its remaining Seattle-area manufacturing, starting in late 2023. Third parties Filson's total Seattle-area workforce has fallen from 369 in 2015 to around 130 today. It will drop under 100 this summer, following the company's decision last month to lay off 31 remaining staff at the Kent facility, which also housed distribution operations. Filson "has changed drastically," said Jon Pryor, 63, a warehouse lead in Kent who has worked for Filson since 2017, when the company still had significant U.S. production, including in Seattle. In recent years, said Pryor, much of his job has involved garment imports from places like Sri Lanka and Bangladesh, where wages are a fraction of what companies like Filson pay in the U.S. And even that task will go away when Filson closes the Kent warehouse in August and outsources distribution to a third-party vendor in Mississippi. For Victoria Cortez, 21, who works in the receiving department and had been expecting a promotion, the closure comes as a "shock." But veterans like Pryor said the decision wasn't a surprise, given how Filson and Bedrock have been trying to cut costs. A vendor in Mississippi isn't "going to have to pay what they're paying us here," said Pryor, who is also a member of the bargaining team for United Food & Commercial Workers Local 3000. The union and Filson recently agreed on a severance package for departing workers and a new contract for the dozen or so unionized Filson employees who still work in the Seattle area. Bedrock says cost-cutting isn't the main reason behind Filson's shrinking Seattle presence. Shifting distribution to Mississippi gives Filson access to "more advanced technology and a more central location" and means "improved shipping times and return services to its customers," a Filson spokesperson said this week. Those "efficiency" arguments dovetail with efforts by Bedrock, which also owns watchmaker Shinola, to run the different brands through shared back-office operations, as CEO Steven Katzman told ModernRetail in September. Quality materials, skilled labor Still, rising costs have been a challenge for apparel-makers, and especially higher-end operators like Filson that rely heavily on skilled labor. Founded in 1897 during the Alaska gold rush, Filson became known for high-quality apparel that was tough enough for prospectors, cowboys, loggers and other outdoor workers. By the early 2000s, Filson had leveraged the reputation into an upscale brand for high-end customers who "don't bat an eye at paying $130 for a wool shirt; $219 for a sweater, $22 for a pair of socks," as a 2005 Seattle Times article noted. But beneath the clever marketing, Filson's success has continued to depend on product quality, which relies in turn not just on good materials but skilled labor. Labor makes up roughly half the cost of making outdoor apparel, said Brent Zwiers, a production expert who formerly worked at Filson and two other Seattle-based outdoor apparel companies - Outdoor Research and Feathered Friends. In recent decades, much of that labor has been done by Chinese and Vietnamese immigrants who often brought their skills with them, said Zwiers. But that need for skilled labor is a challenge in a competitive global economy. In the U.S., the median hourly wage for sewing machine operators in "cut and sew apparel manufacturing" is $16.06, or around $32,000 a year, according to a 2023 report by the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. That's around 40% below the median U.S. wage. But it's many times higher than what some workers make overseas. In Bangladesh, which has grown into a major supplier for many U.S. apparel brands, the minimum wage for apparel workers was raised in 2023 to the equivalent of just over $1,350 a year, according to media reports and a 2024 report from the U.S. Department of Labor. Tariffs to the rescue? President Donald Trump wants to boost U.S. manufacturing by putting tariffs, or taxes, on imports, thus neutralizing the advantages of lower-cost foreign labor. But that help is complicating life for U.S. apparel companies that now rely on imports for some or all of their products and materials. Today, just 2% of the garments Americans buy are U.S.-made, according to data reported in The New York Times. Tariffs are even more complicated for higher-end brands whose customers are already price-fatigued from recent inflation. Filson is seeing both effects. On the one hand, having 35% of its production still in the U.S. "mitigates impact from tariffs on a meaningful portion of our product line," said Filson's new president, Tim Bantle, in a statement this week. "That said, on the balance of our goods, we need to manage the impact of tariffs," which comes "on top of the inflationary impact of the COVID era and a resetting of consumer spending as a result," added Bantle, who was formerly CEO of Seattle-based outdoor apparel giant Eddie Bauer. Asked about the impacts of the tariffs going forward, Bantle said Filson is "still assessing the situation while staying focused on delivering Filson-level quality and value to our customers." Seattle presence However Filson ends up delivering that quality and value, it's not entirely clear what Seattle's role will be. The company said moving the 12 production workers from Kent to Seattle is "a return to its roots" and added that it plans to expand some production in Seattle. But the company was also careful to note that more Seattle production won't require a larger Seattle-area manufacturing team, which appears to have remained at around a dozen since the big layoff in 2023. More broadly, even if Filson wanted to rebuild its Seattle-area manufacturing team, it might struggle to find enough skilled labor. Many garment workers in immigrant communities are aging out and aren't passing those skills on to their children, Zwiers said. Many "worked really hard to send their kids to school so that they wouldn't have to … work in the factories anymore," Zwiers said. In the Seattle area, skilled apparel labor has become so scarce that when Outdoor Research wanted to expand production, around six years ago, the company had to look elsewhere and eventually settled on the Los Angeles area, which still has a lot of apparel workers, Zwiers said. In Washington, "it's a small pool that keeps getting smaller." Between 2001 and 2024, the number of apparel workers in Washington fell by nearly two-thirds, from 3,086 to just 1,129, with around 778 in King County, according to state data through mid-2024. Reversing that decadeslong trend will likely take more than tariffs. Pay remains low, especially relative to living costs in cities like Seattle. Even with the new union contract, Filson's apparel-makers will earn around $21 to $26 an hour, according to UFCW. The city's minimum wage is $20.76. And to get those wages, job applicants must have skills that have become harder to acquire as the domestic apparel industry has shrunk. Reversing that decadeslong trend will likely take more than tariffs. Pay remains low, especially relative to living costs in cities like Seattle. Even with the new union contract, Filson's apparel-makers will earn around $21 to $26 an hour, according to UFCW. The city's minimum wage is $20.76. And to get those wages, job applicants must have skills that have become harder to acquire as the domestic apparel industry has shrunk. Copyright (C) 2025, Tribune Content Agency, LLC. Portions copyrighted by the respective providers.
Vogue Singapore
21-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Vogue Singapore
Here's how to survive ‘The Last of Us' in post-apocalyptic style
After an arduous two-year wait, The Last of Us has at last returned with its second season. Based on the acclaimed video game of the same name, the post-apocalyptic drama is set in a world ravaged by a mutated fungal parasite, causing what we've come to understand as zombie-like behaviour in infected humans. Led by Bella Ramsey and Pedro Pascal, the latter who is set for a banner year as Mister Fantastic in the upcoming Marvel franchise, the hit series is a masterclass not only in sci-fi thrills and heart-rending storytelling, but also in costume design. While the show's premise and gritty settings posed unique limitations on its wardrobe, costume designer Cynthia Summers took on the challenge as an opportunity to create practical and durable ensembles that scream apocalypse-proof, all while staying true to each character's personality and visual design from the original game. Convincingly rugged and distressed, the show's versatile, largely unisex wardrobe quickly gained the attention and praise of cosplayers and fans alike, with some casual viewers even taking to forums like Reddit asking how they can channel the style of their favourite characters. For the show's wardrobe, Summers looked to styles and materials with origins as blue-collar workwear, zoning in on pieces that everyday civilians would own—making it just as accessible to viewers. Hardy materials like denim feature heavily in the series, as do dense flannels and other pieces designed for utility, comfort and ease of movement. Considering the recent rise of fashion trends like gorpcore and utilitarian, it's easy to see the appeal of emulating this worn-in style. With the series finally returning with its sophomore season, here is Vogue Singapore's guide to The Last of Us fashion staples for an apocalypse-ready wardrobe. 1 / 16 Versatile flannel During season one of the show, Summers spoke about the popularity of the flannel shirts she dressed the cast in amongst fans of the show, so it's no surprise that these unisex tops are making a comeback this season. In this scene—hinting at a budding romance between Bella Ramsey and Isabela Mercad's characters—Ramsey's Ellie dons a cosy oversized button-down flannel shirt. Courtesy of Fjällräven 2 / 16 Fjällräven Värmland Heavy Flannel Shirt in Deep Forest, $215.40 Available at Fjällräven . Courtesy of Zara 3 / 16 Zara Check Shirt in Dark Navy, $99.90 Available at Zara . Courtesy of Filson 4 / 16 Filson Vintage Flannel Work Shirt in Black/Rust/Multi Plaid, $132.60 Available at Filson . Courtesy of HBO 5 / 16 Pocketed utility jackets Amid the wintry chill that envelops this season of The Last of Us , layers are absolutely essential for our beloved survivors to weather the cold. Enter the utility jacket, which doubles as both a comfortable outerwear option and for its practical design—after all, it can't hurt to have a couple more pockets to hide your weapons in the chaos of a post-apocalyptic world. Courtesy of Carhartt 6 / 16 Dayton Jacket in Black Stone Canvas, $439 Available at Carhartt . Courtesy of Patagonia 7 / 16 Patagonia Iron Forge™ Canvas Ranch Jacket, $139 Available at Patagonia . Courtesy of Lululemon 8 / 16 Lululemon Hooded Utility Jacket, $268 Available at Lululemon . Courtesy of HBO 9 / 16 Beanies While known as more of a staple accessory today, beanies were first conceived as a form of work wear as a practical, comfortable way to keep hair out of one's face, with the added bonus of extra warmth. In that vein, many characters—especially those out on foraging and rescue missions—have already been spotted in a myriad of beanies in our first glimpses of season two. Courtesy of Patagonia 10 / 16 Patagonia Fun Hog™ Beanie in Phosphorus Green, $55 Available at Patagonia . Courtesy of Fjällräven 11 / 16 Fjällräven Tab Hat in Deep Forest, $49 Available at Fjällräven . Courtesy of Marni 12 / 16 Marni Logo Embroidered Ribbed Knit Beanie, $368.35 Available at Cettire. Courtesy of HBO 13 / 16 Timeless denim Not only are they an eternal style essential, with every generation owning them in one form or another, hardy denim pieces are also some of the most likely to endure the wear and tear of post-apocalypse life. Naturally, many of the characters are spotted in aged or distressed denim pieces. Case in point: the jeans worn by Tommy and Maria, the leaders of the survivor's settlement in Jackson, and their son Benji. Courtesy of Acne Studios 14 / 16 Acne Studios Loose fit jeans - 2021F, $800 Available at Acne Studios . Courtesy of Net-a-porter 15 / 16 Frame Le Slim Palazzo high-rise wide-leg jeans, $411 Available at Net-a-porter . Courtesy of Levi's 16 / 16 Levi's Blue Tab™ Women's Carve Jeans in Swell, $349.90 Available at Levi's .
Buzz Feed
18-03-2025
- Lifestyle
- Buzz Feed
I Found The Perfect Thermal, And Now I'm Actively Rooting For Cold Weather To Stay
Like any rational person, I usually spend my winters counting down the days until I can stop dressing like I'm preparing for an Arctic expedition. But this year? This year is different because I found the perfect thermal — and now, for the first time in my life, I'm actually hoping cold weather sticks around a little longer. Paramount Pictures A little background: I live in Detroit, where winters are long, painfully cold, and somehow still capable of catching me off guard every year. On top of that, I live in a 100-year-old building that — charmingly — does not have individual thermostats. That means I exist in a constant state of either freezing or cooking, with no in-between. One minute I'm shivering in my apartment, the next I'm sweating through my layers because the radiators have decided to go full blast. So this winter, I said enough is enough and went searching for a versatile long-sleeve shirt — something warmer than a T-shirt but not as stuffy as a hoodie or sweater. I wanted a piece I could wear at home without overheating but also something that could handle Detroit's brutal outdoor temps and still look good when layered up. Enter: The Filson Waffle Knit Henley. Historically, I've only ever thrifted thermals, which meant I was always at the mercy of whatever slightly misshapen, pre-stretched, weirdly itchy waffle-knit happened to be available. Given I've never purchased a brand-new thermal, let's start with the obvious — $115 for a thermal is no small investment. Filson has been making rugged, hardwearing outdoor gear since 1897, and their reputation for quality isn't just hype. Their stuff is built to last, and as they say themselves, they're in the business of making "unfailing goods." Between the substantial but breathable waffle knit, the reinforced construction, and the classic, unfussy fit, it all comes together in a way that makes it clear this isn't just another cheap, flimsy layer. It's a piece that will be in my rotation for years. And let's not forget: It's also a Henley! Those two little buttons at the top? Game-changer. When things get a little too toasty, simply unbuttoning them provides just the right amount of ventilation without sacrificing style. It's one of those small but crucial details that makes this thermal so much more functional than a basic long-sleeve tee, IMO. 1. When I'm home, it's basically my second skin. I mostly work from home, and I'm not ashamed to admit that I've been wearing this more days than not. It's just that good. It's warm enough that I don't need to bundle up, but breathable enough that I don't feel like I'm overheating. I pair it with sweatpants or shorts and transition seamlessly from my desk to my comfy chair to my snack cupboard and back again. 2. When I do need to leave the house, I don't think twice, I just add a layer (or two, or three — depending on the wind chill). Griffin Gonzales Whether I'm getting groceries, going to a movie, or just trying to look put-together (without actually trying to look put-together), this thermal has been my go-to. I'm always wearing it with my vintage military fatigues, a zip-up hoodie, a beanie, and some sneakers — my always reliable uniform when I'm out and about. 3. You can even dress it up. Here's the proof: Recently, a friend and I snagged an impromptu dinner rez (as in, we had 20 minutes to get ready and drive there until our bread was supposed to hit the table). Naturally, I was wearing this thermal, and without thinking, I threw on a double-breasted blazer, some dark denim, a leather belt, and a pair of loafers and was out the door. Maybe you'll disagree, but for me, it somehow works. It adds a relaxed, effortless vibe to a dressier outfit, making it the perfect layering piece for those in-between occasions where you want to look good but not too good, you know? So yeah. I went from never buying new thermals to being a full-fledged Filson waffle-knit evangelist. And now? I'm just hoping winter sticks around long enough for me to keep wearing it. But even when the temperatures rise, I know I'll still get plenty of use out of it — whether it's a late night on the beach, a quick weekend trip, or working from my fave coffee shop that's known to unapologetically blast the A/C May through September. Need more convincing? These promising reviews go pretty hard. " Tough, warm shirt. Great utilitarian piece that can be worn for work or a casual night on the town. Excellent for layering or wearing alone on cooler days, and the color is awesome. Has held up well after several washes and seems to only be getting better with time. 10/10." — Juan C. " The best Henley shirts around. I have four of them. My go-to long-sleeve shirt. Comfortable and tough. The weave is tight. You can work in these shirts or wear them for nice casual wear. Very versatile. I normally wear small in Filson but like the medium in this shirt for extra room and comfort." — Behzad V. "This waffle knit Henley is my go-to shirt, so I need to buy another one. This under-a-flannel shirt is a great combination for warmth and ease of movement. I have worn it constantly since I got it, and it has kept its shape. Good looking enough to wear alone or as a base layer. It is very well made and will last for years." — James H. Back to work. Peace!
Yahoo
26-02-2025
- Politics
- Yahoo
Support grows for Maine student-athlete at center of transgender debate
Feb. 25—A group of 30 state and national organizations has banded together to condemn last week's social media posts by some elected officials that drew unwanted attention to a transgender student-athlete in Maine. The debate that started online soon became the impetus for a showdown between Gov. Janet Mills and President Donald Trump, after which the Trump administration threatened to withhold education funding and launched a series of investigations. The coalition of organizations said in a joint statement that as the debate inevitably continues, lawmakers should leave children out of it. "Our organizations stand united in declaring that adults should never harass, 'out', or instigate attacks on minors," the organizations wrote Tuesday. "All children deserve our safety and protection, so they can feel safe at home, at school, and in their communities." The list of organizations includes EqualityMaine, the Maine Women's Lobby, the Maine Medical Association, the Maine Council of Churches and many more. Gia Drew, executive director of EqualityMaine, said posts by Rep. Laurel Libby, R-Auburn, that included photos of a transgender athlete at Greely High School who competed in a track meet last week were "inexcusable." "Using pictures of kids for your own political gains, I think that goes against what most Mainers think," Drew said. "But it's not just about one person or one athlete. All young people who might be trans or nonbinary or don't fit some mold, I worry about how they are going to navigate their lives." Libby did not respond to an interview request Tuesday but has defended her posts and resisted requests that she take them down. When asked last week if her posts could have effectively targeted the athlete and put them in harm's way, Libby did not answer and instead said the state's policy is putting girls at risk. "It's not fair to Maine female athletes to have to compete against male athletes," she said. "Frankly, it's outrageous and that's the focus here." The Press Herald is not identifying the student-athlete who has become the latest target in a highly charged national debate, but members of the School Administrative District 51 community have been similarly dismayed by the attention. "It's really troubling for people to watch a student be placed in the center of a debate like that," said Tig Filson, chair of the Cumberland Town Council. "And when you have that amplified at a national level, featuring voices far removed from our community, it's really painful for people." Filson described her community, and especially the school community, as tight-knit and said the biggest reaction from townspeople has been compassion for the student and family that has been outed by conservative media. "People want to make sure they know they are supported and feel safe," she said. Filson also spoke about the matter at the Town Council meeting Monday evening. Andrea Berry, who chairs the select board in North Yarmouth, which is part of SAD 51, said adults engaging in this debate online and elsewhere are overlooking the impact on students. "There is so much hate and prejudice that's being bandied around by members of local community, but much more by people at the state and federal government level," Berry said. "I wish people understood that kids are feeling this, and it's really affecting young people's ability to feel safe, feel seen and feel valued." Jeffrey Porter, the district's superintendent, said late Tuesday that he's been buoyed by the support for students in the community. Prior to Monday's return to school, he worked with police to increase their presence on campus. Thankfully, he said, things have been uneventful. "There has also been some inappropriate feedback (mostly from outside the community) that has been disheartening, especially considering they're from grown adults who should know better," Porter said. "Despite the unwanted national attention, we are trying to move on and create as normal of a school week as possible for our students." FOCUS ON STUDENTS MISPLACED Even community members who have spoken out against transgender athletes being allowed to compete say the focus on specific students is regrettable. Nancy Storey, a Cumberland resident and former executive director of the Maine State Golf Association, has posted numerous times on Facebook since last week and also shared a letter she wrote to state officials. She doesn't agree with the state's policy but also doesn't want individual students to be thrust into the debate. Storey said in an interview that she feels strongly that biological males should not compete against girls, but she doesn't blame the school or the Maine Principals' Association for allowing it. Both, she said, are following state law, but Storey thinks that law didn't account for some of the challenges that have arisen. "As to why I feel as strongly as I do, I remember the days when, if girls wanted to compete, they had to play with the boys," she said. "My first rec basketball was with boys because there was no girls team. I was an eighth grade girl playing against sixth grade boys, and they were still stronger than me." This isn't the first time conservative lawmakers in Maine have used an underage athlete to make a political point about transgender rights. Last year, many drew attention to a cross-country runner, although that didn't reach the White House. Copy the Story Link
Yahoo
25-02-2025
- Politics
- Yahoo
Support grows for student-athlete at center of transgender debate
Feb. 25—A group of 30 state and national organizations have banded together to condemn last week's social media posts by some elected officials that drew unwanted attention to a transgender student-athlete in Maine. The debate that started online quickly became the impetus for a showdown between Gov. Janet Mills and President Donald Trump, after which the Trump Administration threatened to withhold education funding and launched a series of investigations. The coalition of organizations said in a joint statement that as the debate inevitably continues, lawmakers should leave children out of it. "Our organizations stand united in declaring that adults should never harass, 'out', or instigate attacks on minors," the organizations wrote Tuesday. "All children deserve our safety and protection, so they can feel safe at home, at school, and in their communities." The list of organizations includes EqualityMaine, the Maine Women's Lobby, the Maine Medical Association, the Maine Council of Churches, and many more. Gia Drew, executive director of EqualityMaine, said posts by Rep. Laurel Libby, R-Auburn, that included pictures and names of a transgender athlete who competed in a track meet last week were "inexcusable." Libby has defended her posts and resisted requests that she take them down. "Using pictures of kids for your own political gains, I think that goes against what most Mainers think," Drew said. "But it's not just about one person or one athlete. All young people who might be trans or nonbinary or don't fit some mold, I worry about how they are going to navigate their lives." The Press Herald is not identifying the student athlete who has become the latest target in a highly charged national debate, but members of the community where she lives have been similarly dismayed by the attention. "It's really troubling for people to watch a student be placed in the center of a debate like that," said Tig Filson, chair of the Cumberland town council. "And when you have that amplified at a national level, featuring voices far removed from our community, it's really painful for people." Filson described her community, and especially the school community, as tightknit and the biggest reaction from townspeople has been compassion for the student and family that has been outed by conservative media. "People want to make sure they know they are supported and feel safe," she said. Filson also addressed the matter at town council meeting on Monday evening. Andrea Berry, who chairs the select board in North Yarmouth, which is part of the same school district, said adults engaging in this debate online and elsewhere are overlooking the impact on students. "There is so much hate and prejudice that's being bandied around by members of local community, but much more by people at the state and federal government level," she said. "I wish people understood that kids are feeling this, and it's really affecting young people's ability to feel safe, feel seen and feel valued." Even community members who have spoken out against transgender athletes being allowed to compete say the focus on specific students is regrettable. Nancy Storey, a Cumberland resident and former executive director of the Maine State Golf Association, has posted numerous times on Facebook since last week and also shared a letter she wrote to state officials. She doesn't agree with the state's policy, but also doesn't want individual students to be thrust into the debate. Storey said in an interview she feels strongly that biological males should not compete against girls, but she doesn't blame the school or the Maine Principals Association for allowing it. Both, she said, are following state law, but Storey thinks that law didn't account for some of the challenges that have arisen. "As to why I feel as strongly as I do, I remember the days when, if girls wanted to compete, they had to play with the boys," she said. "My first rec basketball was with boys because there was no girls team. I was an 8th grade girl playing against 6th grade boys and they were still stronger than me." This isn't the first time conservative lawmakers in Maine have used an underage athlete to make a political point about transgender rights. Last year, many drew attention to a cross country runner, although that didn't reach the White House. Copy the Story Link
