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The Guardian
9 hours ago
- Lifestyle
- The Guardian
How to make perfect tandoori chicken (without a tandoor) – recipe
When was the last time you had tandoori chicken? Described by the Liverpool Daily Post in 1962 as 'roast chicken Indian fashion', this delicately seasoned, but often luridly coloured, dish was once the mainstay of the British Indian restaurant menu; yet, always greedy for novelty, I can't remember when I last had the pleasure. The loss is mine, because it's one of the very best ways to eat chicken – rich and tender, thanks to its yoghurt marinade, tangy with lemon and perfumed with spice. Vivek Singh argues that 'no Punjabi celebration can be complete without tandoori chicken', while J Inder Singh Kalra went as far as to crown it the 'king of kebabs', a sentiment echoed by Rohit Ghai. The issue for domestic cooks is, of course, that few of us have the clay oven, or tandoor, from which the dish takes its name. Traditionally used to cook bread, and capable of getting up to astonishingly high temperatures, it's this that gives tandoori chicken its characteristically smoky flavour. So, assuming you don't happen to have one handy, what's the best way to make tandoori-style chicken at home? Tandoori chicken is usually a whole bird cut into pieces and threaded on to skewers, ready to be lowered into the oven – using boneless chicken pieces instead, as newly crowned Fortnum & Mason cookery writer of the year Ravinder Bhogal notes in these very pages, will get 'dinner on the table faster' (she suggests using thigh for tikka, which I'd echo, because it stays much juicier). Most recipes specify either a whole bird or an assortment of joints – drumsticks for Nik Sharma, legs and breasts for Madhur Jaffrey – but because they're for the most part all cut into pieces, you can adapt this to suit your own preference, with the caveat that I wouldn't recommend using just breast, because it does dry out very easily. A mixture, or legs alone, is a far better bet. Both Bhogal and Singh spatchcock the whole bird, splaying it out so it cooks more evenly. This looks impressive, but I've decided to stick with pieces only, not least because of the risk of overcooking the white meat; this way, it's easy to whip out the breasts and leave in the legs for a few minutes longer. Tandoori chicken is almost always skinless – only Ghai and those cooking whole birds (Bhogal and Roopa Gulati) don't mention removing it – because it gives the marinade better access to the meat. The yoghurty coating will play a similar protective role, insulating the flesh from direct heat, while a couple of deep slashes will bring the marinade, and its flavour, into the centre of the meat. The consensus breaks down when it comes to the marinade. Sharma, Bhogal and Sarah Woods's lovely book Desi Kitchen all use a single marinade, while Rick Stein's India, Inder Singh Kalra's Prashad, Ghai's Yatra, Keith Floyd's India, Jaffrey's Indian Cookery and Gulati's Curry Lovers employ a two-step process in which the meat is first rubbed with citrus juice or vinegar, salt and sometimes a few aromatics (ginger and garlic paste for Ghai; turmeric, chilli and pepper for Gulati) and left for half an hour or so before the yoghurt mix is added. And this extra step seems well worth it, because, the spices aside, lemon (you could use lime or Gulati's white-wine vinegar instead, if you prefer) and salt seem to me the top notes of every tandoori chicken I can remember eating. Salt is the only molecule that is small enough here realistically to penetrate into the interior, but the rest will season the outside well enough to flavour every bite regardless (most British chicken is young enough that tenderness ought not to be an issue). The dairy marinade, which contains fat that will dissolve the aromatics in the spices, so they coat the meat thoroughly, will stay largely on the surface of the chicken, as a kind of integral sauce. The thicker the yoghurt, the more easily it will stick, so a greek-style thick one is ideal. You could also add pureed red onion, as Sharma does, or Jaffrey's yellow onion. Green chillies are also popular, as is chilli powder (whether readymade or ground from dried Kashmiri chillies). Cumin is near ubiquitous; peppercorns, fenugreek and turmeric pop up a lot, as do sweeter spices such as green cardamom and cloves – I particularly enjoy Bhogal's luxurious cinnamon and saffron, for example. That said, I want to keep my recipe fairly simple, because my testers and I all enjoy Jaffrey's tandoori chicken, spiced with fresh green chilli, garam masala and paprika, so much, which proves you don't need a kaleidoscope of spices to make your own. That's why I've stuck with garam masala (which, in India, usually includes cumin, coriander, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and peppercorns) plus a little extra cumin, though you may well want to add other spices that take your fancy. (Saffron comes highly recommended, both for its elusive fragrance and the colour it lends.) Time-wise, and though I hate to disagree with Jaffrey, I don't think 'the longer, the better' applies here. After her recommended 24 hours in the marinade, the surface of the chicken is a little bit mushy, so four to six hours feels like the sweet spot. Possibly chickens were tougher back in 1982? The tandoori chicken I grew up on got what Mallika Basu describes in her book Masala as its 'characteristic Day-Glo red appearance from a dash of artificial colour, but', she adds, 'Kashmiri chilli powder or paprika is more commonly used at home'. Sharma suggests adding some beetroot, 'which does work very well without affecting the taste, though I will admit, I wish it were a deeper shade of red. However, too much beet could also end up sweetening the chicken, which is something I wanted to avoid'. Stein uses beetroot powder instead, which can be found at specialist spice retailers (I bought some from Spice Mountain at London's Borough Market, which also sells online), but I think you get just as good a result from Jaffrey's paprika rub. Alternatively, if it just doesn't feel like tandoori chicken if it doesn't glow in the dark, use an artificial colouring; if you don't worry about eating it in cakes and sweets, it feels illogical to avoid it here (Dan Toombs notes that, contrary to packet instructions, you should rub the colouring directly on to the meat). Jaffrey excitedly reports that, 'I have, I think, found a way to make tandoor-style chicken without a tandoor!' which, 'as I am sure you all know by now, is a vat-shaped clay oven, heated with charcoal or wood. The heat inside builds up to such an extent that small whole chickens, skewered and thrust into it, cook in about 10 minutes. The fierce heat seals the juices of the bird and keeps it moist … the result is quite spectacular.' Her home solution is an oven heated to its maximum temperature: 'The cooking time is not 10 minutes, because home ovens do not get as hot as tandoors. Still, breasts cook in 15 or 20 minutes and legs in 20 to 25 minutes.' Sharma also uses the oven, though at a mere 200C, then finishes off the drumsticks under the grill. Ghai's book Yatra uses a hot grill alone (time to switch on that extractor fan), while Singh and Bhogal prefer the barbecue, which is, in my opinion, the ideal scenario for a slightly smoky flavour. If that's not practical, a very hot oven is the next best thing, though I'd advise you to check on the breasts towards the end of the cooking time, and take them out early, if necessary. Bhogal's drizzle of ghee, while to some extent gilding the lily, helps to stop the chicken drying out while it rests (she also finishes the dish with a sprinkle of chaat masala). Honourable mention goes to Gulati's whole tandoori chicken. Smothered in marinade, stuffed with buttery rice and roasted whole, it's utterly delicious if you're looking for a less traditional take on the classic. It's one that I will certainly make again. Bhoghal gives recipes for coriander and mint chutney, kachumber salad and garlic naan, all of which work very well with tandoori chicken, as do basmati rice and, indeed, a masala gravy. Alternatively, you might prefer shredded iceberg, some lemon wedges and a pint of Kingfisher on the side: entirely up to you. (It would be remiss of me not to inform you that any leftovers make excellent sandwiches – or, like Sharma, you might prefer to freeze some of it after two hours of marinating.) Prep 15 min Marinate 4½-6½ hr Cook 25 min Serves 4 6 chicken pieces – 2 bone-in thighs, 2 drumsticks, 2 breasts, all skinless6 garlic cloves, peeled1 tbsp grated ginger 1-1½ tsp salt 6 tbsp lemon or lime juice, or white-wine vinegar1 tsp cumin seeds 2 green chillies 250g thick, greek-style plain yoghurt 4 tsp garam masala Black pepper 2 tbsp sweet paprika, or 1 tbsp mild chilli powder2 tbsp ghee or oil Take the skin off the chicken, if necessary, then cut the legs and breasts into two pieces each, then cut a couple of deep slashes in each piece. Peel the ginger and garlic, then mash both to a paste with the salt (adjust to your taste) in a mortar or mini chopper, then stir in the lemon juice. Rub this mix all over the chicken, cover and leave for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, toast the cumin seeds in a dry pan until aromatic, then crush to a powder. Finely chop the chilli and mash to a paste – I add it to the mortar with the cumin. Stir both into the yoghurt, then mix in the garam masala and a good grind of black pepper. Smear the paprika all over the chicken, followed by the yoghurt, making sure to get this as far into the cuts as possible, then cover and chill for four to six hours. Take the chicken out of the fridge half an hour before you want to start cooking it. Light the barbecue or heat the oven to 240C (230C fan)/475F/gas 9 (or as high as it will go). Once the barbecue or oven is ready (the barbecue coals should be glowing white hot, and no flames should be visible), grease the barbecue grill or a baking tray with ghee or oil, then lay on the chicken pieces, shaking off any excess marinade back into the bowl. Grill or roast for 15 minutes, then brush all over with the extra marinade and turn over the chicken pieces. Cook for 10-15 minutes longer, or until cooked through and beginning to char; check on the breasts after 10 minutes, just to be on the safe side. Take off the grill/out of the oven, brush all over with the remaining ghee, if using, and leave to rest for 10-15 minutes before serving. Tandoori chicken – is it indeed the king of kebabs (even if you don't use a skewer), and is there any point in making it without the eponymous clay oven? If not, where do you go for the real deal? Felicity Cloake's new book, Peach Street to Lobster Lane: Coast to Coast in Search of Real American Cuisine, is published by HarperCollins at £16.99. To order a copy for £15.29 go to
Daily Mail
17-05-2025
- Business
- Daily Mail
How 'the Kate effect' will take hold when Princess of Wales is able to give her favourite brands an official royal warrant - and here is what is holding her back
A royal warrant is not just an official endorsement from the British monarchy but it can do wonders for any company formally associated. For the royal family it is a chance to give brands an ultimate seal of approval and for the rest of us it allows a rare insight into the Windsor shopping basket. Almost 400 companies were included in the December batch of Royal Warrants issued by the King and Queen after the latter had previously granted them for the first time in May that year, deciding to award one to Fortnum & Mason. This prestigious task, once a hallmark of Queen Elizabeth II 's reign, will mark another significant step in Kate Middleton 's journey as a senior royal, underscoring her increasing role in shaping the monarchy's modern image. The last Princess of Wales to issue a royal warrant was Mary of Teck, who issued them before her husband, George V, took the throne in 1910. In January it was reported that the Princess of Wales would grant royal warrants for the first time ever in her gradual return from illness. With the 'Kate Effect' adding a reported £1 billion to the British fashion industry, a nod from the Princess of Wales could be one of the highest honours a brand can receive. However, King Charles has decided to delay granting permission to Princess Kate and Prince William to bestow their own royal warrants, according to the Times. King Charles began issuing warrants as the Prince of Wales in 1980, although this job was not given to Princess Diana after their wedding the following year. A royal warrant is a sign of excellence, awarded to businesses or individuals who have regularly supplied goods or services to the royal household. It lasts for up to five years at a time, and can often increase growth for companies. It enable companies to have a royal coat of arms on their packaging for at least five years, although they can be cancelled if products fall below expected standards. A source previously revealed that the Kate and William plan to use them to 'recognise British skills and industry'. But people close to the royal pair are interested to find out when they will receive the honour, especially those part of the brands that supply Kate and William's household. It is understood that some of these brands have already contacted the warrants office to find out if they would be considered. But a source confirmed that applications will not be considered until the King grants permission to Kate and William. A number of reasons could be behind the delay including a backlog from previous warrants issued by the late Queen and by Charles when he was Prince of Wales. Furthermore, it has been suggested that the lord chamberlain's office has also been busy with the late Queen's funeral and then Charles' coronation. A company must be selected by the grantor and once the Kate and William are given permission, the royal warrants office would set a timeframe for firms to apply for consideration. Alexander McQueen is top of the list of those who are expected to be awarded a royal warrant by Kate and William, with other potential favourites including handbag brand Strathberry, tweed clothing range Holland Cooper, and accessories label Emmy London. The 'Kate effect' has seen items worn in public by the princess sell out within minutes and this is expected become even more dramatic if she is able to give brans and an official seal of approval. While William is expected to champion different brands and has previously advocated eco-friendly brands such as Rapanui, which sells sustainable clothes, and Purified Shoes, which makes plastic-free trainers. Buckingham Palace and the Royal Warrant Holders Association have been approached for comment on when the Prince and Princess of Wales will be granted permission to hand out royal warrants. Until then, take a look at some of the brand who could be in the running. Alexander McQueen Considered Kate's go-to fashion house, it's no secret that Alexander McQueen holds a special place in her wardrobe. From her wedding gown to the red double-breasted coat that she wore for her milestone return at the Together At Christmas carol concert last December, the British fashion house has been behind some of the royal's most iconic looks. Catherine Walker Catherine Walker is responsible for some of Kate's most regal outfits, and also many of Princess Diana's famous looks. Catherine Walker designed the dignified, military-inspired coat that the Princess of Wales chose for Remembrance Sunday last year. She also designed the coat dress that Kate wore to the funeral of Prince Philip in 2021. Jenny Packham From Hollywood premieres to King Charles's Coronation weekend, Kate has turned to British designer Jenny Packham for some of her most high-profile occasions. Jenny Packham's glamorous contribution to the Princess of Wales's wardrobe cannot be overlooked either. Who can forget Kate's gold dress for the No Time To Die premiere? The Princess knows she can trust Packham's sleek gowns with a touch of glitter to make her feel her best when the eyes of the world are on her. They're a match made in style heaven. Strathberry The Edinburgh-based luxury brand has long been a go-to for many of the royal ladies. The Duchess of Edinburgh, Zara Phillips and Princess Eugenie all carry its bags. Kate, too, seems to have the handbag designer on speed dial and has built up quite a collection. Holland Cooper Holland Cooper blends British heritage with modern designs, creating women's fashion that is both stylish and functional. Thanks to its focus on quality and craftsmanship, Kate gravitates towards the brand's tweed and tartan coats and blazers, which are both elegant and practical. Emmy London Kate has worn 16 pairs of shoes and nearly as many handbags from Emmy London. She has them in a rainbow of colours, making them the perfect accompaniment to her working wardrobe. The company identifies as a slow fashion brand and adopts a sustainable approach. Catherine Zoraida Catherine Zoraida's designs have been a go-to for Kate since 2012 - the same year the Colombian-born jeweller set up her online business. Turning to the brand countless times, including her poignant visit to Southport last October, the princess has made a huge impact on sales with a 500% lift whenever she is seen in a pair of earrings. Kiki McDonough Princess Diana was a fan, Queen Camilla loves the pendants, and Kate Middleton owns at least 20 pieces from British jeweller Kiki McDonough. Its citrine drop earrings seem to be her favourite style and have been spotted at more than 40 engagements. Brora The Princess of Wales has long had a love for warm knitwear, and one of her most-worn jumpers, which frequently makes an appearance near Christmas time, is from Brora. The luxury cashmere manufacturer, whose Scottish knitwear is hand-produced using 200-year-old mills, also hits the sustainability mark, too. Beulah London When it comes to combining style and social consciousness, Beulah London will certainly be in consideration. Founded by Lady Natasha Rufus Isaacs and Lavinia Richards, the fashion house is known for giving back. The founders have committed to supporting vulnerable and trafficked women, especially through employment. LK Bennett Kate catapulted LK Bennett's now-iconic Sledge shoe to fame in 2011. The shoe has garnered numerous headlines over the years and even featured in an exhibit about royal style in the V&A museum. Since then she has often turned to the High Street brand, including when she wore a recycled floral dress when unveiling the first official portrait of the Prince and Princess of Wales at the Fitzwilliam Museum in Cambridge. Burberry From tailored blazers to ruched midi dresses and bow blouses, the Princess of Wales has mastered the art of incorporating Burberry's heritage checks and playful plaid into her wardrobe. The firm already holds a royal warrant, but the Princess could grant it another one. The iconic, quintessentially British luxury fashion house was founded in 1856. It is likely to be in the running as the Princess is keen to recognise British skills and industry. Mulberry The brand is synonymous with British style, and the Princess of Wales has carried 16 of its handbags to date. From clutches to totes, an array of Mulberry bags have accessorised Kate's outfits over the years, with the white Amberley reigning supreme with ten appearances. Karin Herzog Kate Middleton's radiant complexion is thanks to Karin Herzog's oxygen-infused skincare line - in particular the Vita-A-Kombi 1 Anti-Ageing Face Cream. Karin Herzog is a Swiss pioneer of oxygen beauty treatments, which work by delivering the cleansing properties of oxygen gas deep down into the skin to destroy bacteria. Jo Malone Turning to Jo Malone for her signature scent, Kate scented Westminster Abbey with Jo Malone's Orange Blossom candles on her wedding day. Westminster Abbey smelled of Jo Malone's Orange Blossom candles when Prince William and Kate Middleton wed in April 2011 It is reported that the royal also enjoys the cologne from the British fragrance house, which is synonymous with simple, elegant scents.
