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Scotsman
18-07-2025
- Scotsman
Make for Marrakesh for a trip filled with wonder
A camel guide in the Sahara desert. PIC: G Adventures A trip to Marrakesh and the desert around the Atlas Mountains combines spectacular sights and hospitality, writes Jenny McBain. Sign up to our daily newsletter – Regular news stories and round-ups from around Scotland direct to your inbox Sign up Thank you for signing up! Did you know with a Digital Subscription to The Scotsman, you can get unlimited access to the website including our premium content, as well as benefiting from fewer ads, loyalty rewards and much more. Learn More Sorry, there seem to be some issues. Please try again later. Submitting... It was early January in 1987 when I originally went to Morocco. Pregnant with my first child and having just completed an acting stint in an arduous pantomime tour, the idea was to seek out some sunshine with a friend. We booked into basic accommodation in the coastal city of Agadir and found the warmth we sought. However, we decided that a little adventure was in order. So we boarded a public bus and made our way south to the Saharan city of Guelmim. We struck lucky when we were invited into the home of some locals. They lived in a mud hut, but for all that they lacked in material wealth by European standards, they were extremely generous and hospitable. We were served camel stew which was delicious and is classified as a healthy meat due to its low-fat content. One of the daughters of the house kindly painted my hands with henna, asking only in return for all that she and her family had given that I would send her sister a doll. She said, 'Do not forget the girl from Guelmim.' Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad To my shame the child never did get that doll. In my defence I had a lot on my mind with impending single-parenthood at a young age. However, it is such sheer thoughtlessness that serves to undermine trust on the part of people whose countries have already been looted by bloody imperialists and shackled by colonialism or more exactly, in the case of Morocco, made a French Protectorate. Souvenirs on the Jamaa el Fna market in old Medina, Marrakesh, Morocco In 2010 my daughter, Natasha – she who was but a bump in the late Eighties – came with me, and we stayed in a luxurious riad in Marrakesh for 10 days, venturing out to stroll around the souks and soak up the sights and sounds of the main square, Jemaa el-Fna; a daily carnival of activity which never fails to entertain. A couple of months ago, I decided that it was time to go back to this wonderful North African country and I wanted to incorporate a bit of travel and adventure into my trip but with a degree of comfort. This is when I came across a company called G-Adventures. They offer small group tours, led by trained locals and with an ethos of giving back to host communities. It sounded good. So, I signed up for an eight-night holiday incorporating Marrakech and trip to the desert. Our group met in a central hotel in Marrakesh outwith the walls of the old city. We immediately boarded a Mercedes minibus and made our way south. Our guide was Ridouane who is of Berber extraction. A couple of corrections are in order. G-Adventures do not have guides as such. Rather, they have Chief Experience Officers or CEOs. Secondly the term Berber is considered by many to be pejorative. It was bestowed upon a noble and diverse population of people who are indigenous to Northern Africa and who were considered by the Romans to be less than civilised because they could not communicate in Latin with their uninvited guests, either by speech or in writing. It might be more accurate to say that Ridouane is an Amazigh. Fluent in his own language, as well as Arabic and English, he also has a good grasp of French, Russian and German. Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad I had a particular interest in observing the modus operandi of our CEO. Having quit treading the boards a long ago and found that the world of legacy media has retracted somewhat brutally, I retrained as a tourist guide a few years ago. One of the things I learned is that guiding is a third each of entertainment, engagement, and education. From the outset Ridouane proved to be as professional and knowledgeable as he is kind and patient. Nothing was too much trouble and he never showed so much as a flicker of irritation even when we asked questions on topics he had already covered. All this was achieved during Ramadan when Muslims like him fast from sundown to sun-up. He maintained a light touch whereby the educational part of his delivery was made digestible seasoned as it with anecdotes, stories, and humour. The first stop on our way to camp in the desert was the city of Ouarzazate. This translates as 'the quiet place.' We stayed overnight in a pleasant hotel where we all had dinner together. The next morning, we made our way to the locally situated Atlas Studios. Here in the Atlas Mountains, there are over 300 days of sunshine a year. This along with local technical ability, acting talent and an uncanny knack of fashioning almost anything out of Styrofoam has made it the go-to- destination for such epics as The Last Emperor and The Mummy. Our small group of 12 had great fun making a Cleopatra video starring Finnish-born New Yorker, Anya who was one of our number. Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad Later that afternoon we found ourselves walking across the desert, surrounded by undulating sand dunes edged with vegetation such as chamomile. It was hot but it only took two hours to reach our camp where we were served a sumptuous dinner and entertained by drummers who kept time around a flickering campfire. The highlight of the following day was a camel ride. Rather than eat the animal my job this time was to get on board and stay put. These creatures are extraordinarily well adapted to desert conditions. Two rows of eyelashes protect their eyes from the sand, their wide flat feet make short work of traversing uneven terrain, and they have three stomachs, the third of which is for water. The hump is for storing fat. This is how they earned their rightful reputation for being able to go for long periods of time without eating or drinking. These animals walk in a strange way with the two legs on either side making progress at any one time. In this landscape animals are held in high regard. There is a saying which loosely translates as; - 'you need a mule to get over the mountains, a camel to cross the desert and wife with whom to navigate life.' There were many truly special moments on this trip. The camaraderie amongst the group was notable and by the time some of us had experienced a group hammam or sauna, scrub, and massage back in Marrakesh we felt like we had little to hide. A food tour gave us insight into how the locals eat and we shopped for a fun and informative cooking class where we learned how to make tanjia. Basically, it is a casserole of beef on the bone, which is cooked in saffron, preserved lemons and spices and placed in a conical pot which is then buried in the ashes of a community oven overnight. As we walked through medieval alleyways clutching our creations, small children lit up in recognition that a truly special feast was in their midst, even if it was not to be theirs. Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad My daughter Natasha turned out well. Degree educated she is now happily married with two children of her own. And I returned from my latest trip with a montage of memories. Thoughts of fresh food, colourfully presented, subtly spiced, and bursting with flavour, pique my appetite and inspire my cooking. The sight of wild, Barbary macaques close to the cascading waters of Ouzoud Falls was special too. Finally, though, it is encounters with warm-hearted Moroccans, like Ridouane, who make leaving home worthwhile. They are the ultimate ambassadors of their country. Much of the world beckons, waiting to be explored. But a fourth visit to Morocco is a distinct possibility.
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Travel + Leisure
11-07-2025
- Travel + Leisure
What to Know Before Visiting U.S. National Parks This Summer Amid Staffing Cuts and Record Visitor Numbers
Last month, I embarked on the adventure virtually every travel advisor warns against: planning a last-minute national parks road trip during the peak summer season. From reservations to closures due to staffing shortages, it's been quite the odyssey. According to the National Parks Conservation Association, the National Park Service has lost nearly one-quarter of its permanent staff since the Trump administration took office in January. This is a record low for staff numbers over the past two decades, and it comes at a trying time. National park interest is soaring, with 331.9 million recreation visitors in 2024—that's an uptick of 6.36 million visits since 2023, per the NPS. 'Summer is peak season, and current data and on-the-ground reports confirm high-season travel to U.S. national parks in mid-2025 has been unusually crowded,' says Bogdana Hart, North America regional operations manager for G Adventures, which runs group trips across these public lands. 'Travelers planning national park getaways for late summer into fall 2025 should be prepared for a mix of large crowds, limited services, and more logistics than usual.' I can attest. Mapping a late July road trip that includes Rocky Mountain, Great Sand Dunes, Arches, Canyonlands, and Capitol Reef national parks has put my travel planning skills to the test. My biggest lesson? Visiting the national parks this summer is still possible, but it requires research, patience, and flexibility. Green rolling mountains in Shenandoah National Park. Jon Mattrisch/Travel + Leisure Slashed full-time and seasonal staff numbers mean fewer resources for park visitors. 'Ranger-led programs, tours, and visitor center hours are limited, with fewer educational activities available,' says Hart. 'Park services like restrooms, campgrounds, and shuttle systems are also strained. Some shuttles are running reduced schedules, restrooms aren't cleaned as often, and trash pickup isn't always keeping up with the volume of visitors.' The changes vary by park, so it's important to research available tours and unexpected closures before you visit. Keep an eye on the park websites or download the National Park Service app to have the calendar of guided tours handy. Consider following the parks on social media, too, as many post real-time updates and scheduling changes. If you're heading out on a hike or into the backcountry, go above and beyond with preparation. 'Staffing shortages mean fewer rangers, closed visitor centers, and minimal amenities, so self-sufficiency is key,' says Hart. 'Bring food, water, and navigation tools. Patience and flexibility are essential for a smooth trip.' As always, crowd numbers depend on which park you're visiting. In a tough-to-reach destination like Isle Royale or Lake Clark—two of the country's least-visited national parks—you may not experience throngs of travelers. But the popular parks are a different story. Getaways like Yellowstone, Glacier, and Zion are already seeing record or close-to-record visitation numbers, according to the NPCA. 'It's definitely feeling busier than usual,' says Hart, noting the team's tour leaders report that, while there is congestion, it's most noticeable in the most popular areas. 'I don't think Old Faithful will ever feel 'empty' around a summer geyser eruption, so if that's something you want to see, just be prepared to deal with some crowding, and please be patient and polite with park staff about it,' says G Adventures guide Megan Chinworth. 'Pick trails and campsites further down on the recommended lists of things to do, and don't forget about the other sites managed by the NPS that are not national parks.' Timed entries and reservations are among the many ways the NPS is tackling overcrowding. This makes impromptu park-hopping trickier for last-minute travelers like me, but, after reading the fine print, the systems aren't as cumbersome as they sound. Popular parks like Arches and Rocky Mountain have initiatives where travelers sign up to visit during certain windows to minimize congestion during peak late morning to afternoon hours. These specifications vary by park—check out this NPCA guide for tips on navigating each timed-entry program—but in most cases, the reservation solely determines when you can enter the park to avoid traffic jams and parking-lot congestion. You can nab your time slot either weeks to months in advance, as well as the day before; again, the particulars vary by park. And note that many timed entries apply specifically to peak hours. If you visit in the early morning or evening, or at night for stargazing, you can often still enjoy a last-minute park trip. (Make sure to cross-check the park's entry rules and hours before you go.) Hikers in Bryce Canyon National Park. Taylor McIntyre/Travel + Leisure To avoid hassle and missing out on your dream national park hotels, plan your summer park trips around three to six months in advance, says Hart. 'Campsites, lodging, and permits book up fast, sometimes the day they're released.' Some of the most popular park experiences, such as Angels Landing at Zion National Park, require permits. If you have your heart set on an experience, research the participation details well before your trip. And if planning your national parks visit gets too cumbersome, you can also join a multi-day group tour and have someone else handle the logistics. Overcrowding affects more than the travel experience. It can irreversibly damage our public lands. That's why it's more important than ever to minimize your footprint and follow Leave No Trace principles. This includes staying on designated trails, packing out all that you carry in, and never feeding or approaching wildlife. 'It's also important to respect park rules, including permits, timed entries, and closures, as these help safeguard fragile areas,' Hart says. Additionally, remember fire safety. 'It is very important, especially in the peak of summer when vegetation is dry, to be fire-smart and not make fires if they are not explicitly allowed,' says Hart. And, if you have a national park or NPS site in your hometown, consider joining a volunteer cleanup or trail maintenance team to do your part to protect America's best idea.
Travel Weekly
10-07-2025
- Business
- Travel Weekly
G Adventures brings back Sri Lanka cruises
G Adventures will relaunch Sri Lanka sailings after a five-year hiatus, citing a 29% increase in demand for the country over the last 12 months. "With demand for Sri Lanka growing, we knew it was time to bring this one back into the spotlight and do more to support a country that's been through so much in recent years," said Vince Donnelly, global sailing director for G Adventures. The tour operator said it paused everything in Sri Lanka during Covid and that post-pandemic demand was slow to come back, in part due to political unrest in 2022 and 2023. Since the protests stopped more than 18 months ago, G Adventures said demand has been "growing steadily." The seven-day sailings will launch along the island's southern coastline in December. The itinerary can be combined with land-based trips to create two-week experiences. The sailing is on a 54-foot catamaran, starting and ending in the southern town of Mirissa. Activities will include wildlife-spotting, water sports, visiting villages and visiting animal sanctuaries. Every trip will be guided by a G Adventures CEO (chief experience officer) and will include an onboard skipper and chef.
Travel Weekly
05-07-2025
- Travel Weekly
Tour operators and advisors plan around overtourism
Summer began with a new wave of protests in southern Europe, punctuated by Barcelona residents once again turning water guns on visitors to highlight their frustrations over mass tourism. But this year, many travelers to the Continent will avoid its most popular spots or go during off-peak times, as tour operators and travel advisors have reconfigured itineraries to promote responsible tourism. Overtourism concerns reached a fever pitch last summer when Barcelona protestors first sprayed tourists with water guns, which demonstrators did again on June 15 as part of a day of tourism protests in Lisbon, Mallorca and Venice. Striking a balance in attracting tourism while catering to local needs proves to be "a conundrum for the popular tourism destinations," said Jungho Suh, a teaching assistant professor of management at the George Washington University School of Business. And while some destinations already work to promote lesser-known areas and off-peak travel, many tour operators are doing that on their own. G Adventures tries to deviate "from the path most taken and offer other options to see a destination," said product vice president Yves Marceau. The tour operator limits its time in places like Barcelona and Rome. But while there, it collaborates with local organizations to try to make positive contributions. For example, G Adventures partners with Migrantour Rome, where migrants lead tours of the city, providing an "intercultural experience that tourists in Rome rarely see," Marceau said. Intrepid Travel has adjusted some itineraries in Europe because of overtourism concerns, including in Dubrovnik, where guests now visit the famous city walls later in the day. Photo Credit: Courtesy of Intrepid Travel Intrepid Travel has responded to community concerns about crowding by modifying some itineraries, said Leigh Barnes, president for the Americas. The tour operator avoids visiting sites like the walls of Dubrovnik during peak hours, shifting to evenings when it's quieter. On the Amalfi Coast, the company booted popular Positano from its Explore Southern Italy itinerary and swapped in Minori, a lesser-known -- and less crowded -- coastal town. "In places like Venice, Barcelona and beyond, our partners are seeing the social and environmental strain up close," Barnes said, adding that one of the company's tour guides in Venice said the city is "'like a crystal: beautiful but fragile.' "We take that insight seriously, empowering our leaders to help shape our itineraries and shift trips away from overcrowded hot spots toward lesser-known neighborhoods and offseason travel." Last year marked a "breaking point" for overtourism, Barnes said, adding that an Intrepid survey recently found that over 60% of Americans seek out alternative destinations, commonly known as dupes. "Many don't want to just tick off bucket-list sites anymore," he said. Alex Bentley, product head at tour operator Audley Travel, said the company saw a rise in clients this year who want to avoid peak travel times in crowded destinations. Clients are booking lesser-known places, like switching out the Douro Valley for the Alentejo region in Portugal. "Our country specialist talks the client, or their travel advisor, through their recommendations before the itinerary is prepared, allowing them to explain the benefits of including less-visited places that deliver experiences or views that rival the 'big hitters,'" Bentley said, "and generally, the clients are delighted with the suggestions as their experience in the destination is far more authentic." He recommended swapping Santorini for Syros or Tinos in Greece. And for those who want to see hot spots, he suggests the offseason. Fulvio De Bonis Imago Artis Travel, a travel agency in Italy, tries to pair popular sites with hidden gems, like visiting a private home after the Vatican, said co-founder Fulvio De Bonis. "We constantly search for beautiful and amazing places, the unknown," De Bonis said. Imago also partners with little-known vendors to highlight a destination, like truffle hunters with no website or art restoration workshops not typically open to the public. Who are the locals mad at? Portugal-based travel advisor Miriam Martinez of Revigorate, who specializes in Portugal and Spain, said two of her clients recently expressed concern about their travel due to the protests. However, Martinez said the protests are more in opposition to short-term rentals than they are anti-tourism. Miriam Martinez "It's not that we're mad at the tourists, we're mad at the government itself," she said of locals' perspective. "We're mad at how the government is dealing with tourism versus other problems that the country has. The increase of tourism leads to an increase of overall costs. ... We need the tourists to be here. The main issue is related to other issues that are not being taken care of." Like tour operators, Martinez, who mostly works with Americans, tries to ensure her clients' travel goals are met, which might include visiting Barcelona, but also recommending less-crowded areas, like Spain's Costa Brava. "It's about balancing things out," she said.
NZ Herald
01-07-2025
- Entertainment
- NZ Herald
Exploring South Korea with G Adventures ‘soloish' tour
From martial arts classes to sampling live octopus, a whirlwind G Adventures tour through South Korea leaves few senses untested, writes Nathan Limm. 'Annyeonghasyo. Juseyo, er, that?' The Korean waitress flashes a friendly smile at my abysmal attempt to order food on a bustling side street during my first day
