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Time Out
19-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Time Out
Photography: Laura Murray Shrimp Loaf
New Orleans has a special place in my heart. Yes, my first visit in my twenties was marked with three-for-one drinks and frozen slushies dispensed in bars, malls—really, anywhere I could find get one. But in my subsequent travels down south, I've been more focused on how locals actually live, and more importantly, eat. While you can't truly define the cuisine of New Orleans in one sentence, Creole cookery, warming bowls of gumbo and all the oysters for the plucking is most definitely part of the story. So when Strange Delight made its debut last summer, I was more than happy to see a bit of New Orleans make its way to New York. Even from the street, the restaurant makes itself known with a greenish tiled facade and shutters that perpetually stay open and welcoming. Walking inside, the front room almost reads like a diner, with cream tiled walls, soft globe lights and a squat marble bar with stripes of blue, brown and yellow. The counter provides the best shot of the expo kitchen, where you can catch chefs frying extra-large catfish nuggets, while others spoon generous hunks of seasoned butters onto oysters before they meet the fire of the oven. The back room is more formal and farthest away from the clanks of the kitchen, with turquoise booths, an illuminated back bar and even a skylight on the ceiling. While the back is probably the best for families and those who like quiet while they eat, those who appreciate the rhythm of the kitchen will appreciate the bar near the entryway. Is the air permeated with a thin film of oil from the fryer? Yes. Do you also get whiffs of Cajun steamed prawns pulled fresh from the oven? Also, yes. Naturally, with it being a NOLA-inspired joint, seafood reigns supreme. One of my first bites, the Smoked Fish Dip ($20), was so good I considered making the entire review about it alone. Blanketed with handfuls of dill and cilantro, the crabby dip is further complemented with bright pops of lemon. However, the vehicle in which to get it to your mouth, the Creole fried saltines, is in a category all their own. Served in a paper bag, the red-tinged crackers are buttery with a nice back-end of heat that brings it all together. As one of the last tables of the night, I was gifted with another bag of crackers from the server. (I cherished them greatly over the next few days.) Other seafaring selections include oysters and shrimp that you can put together in a seafood tower, ranging from $38 to $130. But if you end up choosing oysters, it is the charbroiled varieties that truly give a taste of the Big Easy. In a smart move, Strange Delight nods to the storied institutions that have preceded it, with Oysters Rockefeller presented in the style of the centuries-old, fine dining institution Galatoire's. While I have yet to visit the New Orleans oyster house that is Felix's, I can now say that I've at least had their oysters, as the Charbroiled Oysters are prepared in the same way. A garlicky and buttery number, the oysters are made even richer with a sprinkle of Parm and breadcrumbs. Speaking of rich, a dozen of these charbroiled beauties come in at a whopping $72 for twelve. However, it's worth the spend to try at least one, so if you are in a small group, the more reasonable (but still pricey) cost of $18 for three is enough to get the experience of it. Another must-add to the table are the Hush Puppies ($14). While a number of my Hush Puppies experiences have ranged from gummy balls to downright nitty-gritty numbers, Strange Delight's are, dare I say, delightful. The craggy-looking balls give way to a light, almost sugary crust that nearly dissolves once bitten. It all comes with a butter-kissed honey that easily melts as soon as it's spooned. Yet, the one dish that I was the most excited about were the po'boys. Strange Delight has a lineup of po' boys for the taking, from the Fried Shrimp Loaf to veggie-forward Fried Green Tomato Loaf. Giving the sandwich a needed update, all the sandwiches swap out crusty baguettes for pillowy milk bread made in house. I went for the Oyster Loaf while my dining companion tried the Catfish Loaf. Each sandwich was a hefty, two-handed thing and the usage of milk bread was a lovely addition—the many layered pickled bits quickly overwhelmed the fish. Pulling out the oysters individually, I finally got some salinity and flavor. But even then, there was more breading to be had than oyster. Overall, it was a good sandwich, but maybe not as mind-bendingly good as I've heard. Still, I wouldn't mind another visit just to snag those coveted crackers. Restaurant Vitals The vibe: The times to be had here are laid back, and almost, can we say, easy? The front room is a bit more boisterous, so be prepared to speak over the happenings of the kitchen and the rap music pumped over the speakers. The back area is a bit more tame with booths for larger groups and an illuminated bar. The food: New Orleans is alive and well here. Seafood is fresh and sourced locally, hush puppies hit the spot and the po' boys sandwiches come plenty hefty with fish and a nice, snappy giardiniera. Every meal ends with a dessert on the house, a milk bread pudding drizzled a Sazerac custard. It's like a warm hug at the end of the meal, so you better eat it up fast before the temp starts to drop. The drink: It would be remiss to visit a New Orleans-style spot and not get a Hurricane, no? Strange Delight's Hurricane comes properly boozed and never oversweetened, with a nice passionfruit taste, all poured over that good ice. They also make a mean Sazerac that will get you properly boozed. Time Out tip: Sandwiches for charity? Strange Delight has them. The restaurant's springtime sandwich series, 'Live, Laugh, Loaf,' has partnered with a number of chefs like Hawa Hassan, Sohla El-Waylly and
The Independent
31-01-2025
- Entertainment
- The Independent
Take it from locals: Super experience in New Orleans entails more than just the French Quarter
Desiring a more local taste of Big Easy life during Super Bowl week? There's plenty to explore both in and outside the city center. Streetcar lines roll to Uptown, Mid-City or City Park. A ferry crosses the Mississippi River to Algiers Point. By car, it's easy to reach Esplanade Ridge; the shops and eateries on Magazine Street or Metairie Road; and seafood spots in Bucktown, along the shore of Lake Pontchartrain. The Lakeview neighborhood is where you'll find chef Susan Spicer. She has taken her Louisiana-inspired cuisine to Super Bowl host cities across the country during the past three decades while participating in the Taste of the NFL charity event. She is involved again this year in her hometown, but those who wish to dine in the spot where Spicer does most of her cooking should visit Rosedale Restaurant. Spicer, whose culinary career has included decades in fine-dining kitchens in the French Quarter and downtown, would by no means advise visitors to eschew the renowned attractions in those historically significant areas. 'There's so much concentrated in the French Quarter, the CBD (central business district) and the Warehouse District, that you can just really get absorbed by everything that's going on there,' Spicer said. 'But if you just venture out a little bit," she added, "there's a lot to discover.' Political pundit James Carville, a Louisiana native and New Orleans resident, says first-time visitors with just a few days in town shouldn't 'feel like if you're going to the French Quarter, you're not being a local." He says the Friday lunch scene at Galatoire's is 'legendary." But if you do decide to explore, here are some options: Popular Neighborhood Spots — Rosedale: This spot exemplifies the neighborhood restaurant scene in New Orleans, where standards for food are high and must be met for an establishment that can't depend on tourists to make it. The ambiance is casual, the menu includes sandwiches (duck pastrami) and po'boys (cochon de lait), but a lot of work, attention to detail and creativity go into the ingredients and preparation. — Clancy's. It is located not far from Audubon Park. New Orleans' power brokers are spotted there regularly, as are celebrity residents such as John Goodman, Harry Shearer and members of the Manning family. Waiters wear tuxedos at this white-table-cloth spot, but the vibe is casual, lively and suitably loud, with diners regularly making the rounds to say hello to friends and acquaintances at other tables or at the compact (and busy) bar area. — Commander's Palace. It is housed in a historic property across from Lafayette Cemetery in the Garden District and is arguably the city's most famous restaurant. Its list of former chefs that rose to culinary stardom includes Emeril Lagasse. Other popular neighborhood dinner destinations include: Gautreau's, La Petite Grocery, Brigtsen's, Mr. John's and Jacque-Imo's in Uptown; Cafe Degas, Mandina's and Liuzza's in Mid-City; Tana in Old Metaire; Station 6 in Bucktown; Rizutto's in Lakeview; and N7 on edge of the Bywater Historic District. Finding that Big Easy staple: Po'boys — Domilise's, Tracey's and Mahony's. These are well-regarded Uptown spots. — In Mid-City, there's Parkway Bakery and Liuzza's by the Track — the latter known for its barbecue shrimp po'boy and sinus-clearing roast beef with horseradish. — In the Bucktown/Lakeview area, a popular spot is R&O's, across the street from the Lake Pontchartrain levee. The roast beef in a po'boy usually is slow-cooked, often is called 'debris,' for how it falls apart in the pot, and is served with gravy. Central Poboys in suburban Jefferson has developed a strong reputation for this. Meanwhile, some no-frills takeout seafood spots around town produce highly regarded shrimp, oyster and catfish po'boys, as well as soft-shell crab when in season. Spicer likes to get her oyster po'boys at Zimmer's Seafood, in the Gentilly neighborhood. When it's time for dessert — Angelo Brocato. Some of the best gelato and Italian pastries in the South can be found in this beloved Mid-City landmark, which was just celebrating a 100-year anniversary renovation when it was flooded by Hurricane Katrina in 2005. Its 2006 reopening was widely celebrated. It's on the Carrollton branch of the red Canal streetcar line and gets busy when school lets out. — Creole Creamery — a popular ice cream parlor on Prytania Street in Uptown — Sucre, also Uptown on Magazine Street, offers French style pastries and gelato. The locals love beignets, too. — Cafe Du Monde. While its best known location is in Jackson Square, another is next to the New Orleans Museum of Art and sculpture garden in City Park. — Morning Call. It's the oldest Cafe du Monde rival in the beignet business. There's one at the end of the cemetery branch of the Canal streetcar line. When it's cocktail hour Locals take their cocktails seriously and a number of recipes — such as the Sazerac or Ramos Gin Fizz — originated in New Orleans. When the weather is pleasant, boutique hotel bars on St. Charles are among the places to be. — The Columns Hotel. This converted historic mansion has inviting outdoor seating beneath a sprawling canopy of massive live oaks and offers views off passing streetcars. A similar option is The Chloe, just four blocks down the avenue. — Hot Tin. This bar is on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel — a few doors down from Mr. John's and just blocks away from Commander's Palace — and offers a panoramic view of New Orleans' skyline from the Superdome to the Crescent City Connection bridge. — The Paradise Lounge. Located in the Hotel St. Vincent on Magazine Street, its dark wood and marble-top bar and tropical-themed wall paper make for an inviting place to meet friends for a drink in the Lower Garden District. — Cure. Housed in a handsomely renovated building along the popular Freret Street corridor, Cure is committed to craft cocktails. — Jewel of the South. This relatively new spot is drawing critical acclaim for its cocktail scene. It is a small, inventive restaurant on the edge of the French Quarter. If you're looking for live music — Frenchman Street, which begins where the French Quarter ends at Esplanade Avenue, has several bars or clubs showcasing live traditional and modern jazz, brass, blues, funk and other genres. One is Snug Harbor, among the more sophisticated Jazz spots in the city. DBA, virtually next door, and the Spotted Cat across the street offer multiple options within steps of one another. — Tipitinas is one of the most revered music venues in town; it is Uptown near the river. Many of New Orleans' best known bands and musicians play there between dates booked with traveling, widely known acts. — For a more intimate music scene, try the Maple Leaf on Oak Street (next door to Jacque-Imo's); Dos Jefes on Tchoupitoulas Street; or Bacchanal, a rustic wine shop deep in the Bywater with outdoor seating and performances by a regular rotation of musicians. Some other attractions — Audubon Park and City Park. These are beloved public spaces filled with large oak trees adorned with dangling Spanish moss, as well as magnolia trees and subtropical vegetation. Joggers and walkers flock to both (as do migrating birds). There are challenging public golf courses, as well as other attractions, contained within each of the parks. Audubon has the zoo, City Park has the New Orleans Museum of Art and Sculpture Garden, as well as paddle boats and the Children's Museum. — Other museum favorites of New Orleans residents include the Ogden Museum of Southern Art and the World War II Museum.
Associated Press
31-01-2025
- Entertainment
- Associated Press
Take it from locals: Super experience in New Orleans entails more than just the French Quarter
NEW ORLEANS (AP) — Desiring a more local taste of Big Easy life during Super Bowl week? There's plenty to explore both in and outside the city center. Streetcar lines roll to Uptown, Mid-City or City Park. A ferry crosses the Mississippi River to Algiers Point. By car, it's easy to reach Esplanade Ridge; the shops and eateries on Magazine Street or Metairie Road; and seafood spots in Bucktown, along the shore of Lake Pontchartrain. The Lakeview neighborhood is where you'll find chef Susan Spicer. She has taken her Louisiana-inspired cuisine to Super Bowl host cities across the country during the past three decades while participating in the Taste of the NFL charity event. She is involved again this year in her hometown, but those who wish to dine in the spot where Spicer does most of her cooking should visit Rosedale Restaurant. Spicer, whose culinary career has included decades in fine-dining kitchens in the French Quarter and downtown, would by no means advise visitors to eschew the renowned attractions in those historically significant areas. 'There's so much concentrated in the French Quarter, the CBD (central business district) and the Warehouse District, that you can just really get absorbed by everything that's going on there,' Spicer said. 'But if you just venture out a little bit,' she added, 'there's a lot to discover.' Political pundit James Carville, a Louisiana native and New Orleans resident, says first-time visitors with just a few days in town shouldn't 'feel like if you're going to the French Quarter, you're not being a local.' He says the Friday lunch scene at Galatoire's is 'legendary.' But if you do decide to explore, here are some options: Popular Neighborhood Spots — Rosedale: The community exemplifies the neighborhood restaurant scene in New Orleans, where standards for food are high and must be met for an establishment that can't depend on tourists to make it. The ambiance is casual, the menu includes sandwiches (duck pastrami) and po'boys (cochon de lait), but a lot of work, attention to detail and creativity go into the ingredients and preparation. — Clancy's. It is located not far from Audubon Park. New Orleans' power brokers are spotted there regularly, as are celebrity residents such as John Goodman, Harry Shearer and members of the Manning family. Waiters wear tuxedos at this white-table-cloth spot, but the vibe is casual, lively and suitably loud, with diners regularly making the rounds to say hello to friends and acquaintances at other tables or at the compact (and busy) bar area. — Commander's Palace. It is housed in a converted historic property across from Lafayette Cemetery in the Garden District and is arguably the city's most famous restaurant. Its list of former chefs that rose to culinary stardom includes Emeril Lagasse. Other popular neighborhood dinner destinations include: Gautreau's, La Petite Grocery, Brigtsen's, Mr. John's and Jacque-Imo's in Uptown; Cafe Degas, Mandina's and Liuzza's in Mid-City; Tana in Old Metaire; Station 6 in Bucktown; Rizutto's in Lakeview; and N7 on edge of the Bywater Historic District. Finding that Big Easy staple: Po'boys — Domilise's, Tracy's and Mahony's. These are well-regarded Uptown spots. — In Mid-City, there's Parkway Bakery and Liuzza's by the Track — the latter known for its barbecue shrimp po'boy and sinus-clearing roast beef with horseradish. — In the Bucktown/Lakeview area, a popular spot is R&O's, across the street from the Lake Pontchartrain levee. The roast beef in a po'boy usually is slow-cooked, often is called 'debris,' for how it falls apart in the pot, and is served with gravy. Central Poboys in suburban Jefferson has developed a strong reputation for this. Meanwhile, some no-frills takeout seafood spots around town produce highly regarded shrimp, oyster and catfish po'boys, as well as soft-shell crab when in season. Spicer likes to get her oyster po'boys at Zimmer's Seafood, in the Gentilly neighborhood. When it's time for dessert — Angelo Brocato. Some of the best gelato and Italian pastries in the South can be found in this beloved Mid-City landmark, which was just celebrating a 100-year anniversary renovation when it was flooded by Hurricane Katrina in 2005. Its 2006 reopening was widely celebrated. It's on the Carrollton branch of the red Canal streetcar line and gets busy when school lets out. — Creole Creamery — a popular ice cream parlor on Prytania Street in Uptown — Sucre, also Uptown on Magazine Street, offers French style pastries and gelato. The locals love beignets, too. — Cafe Du Monde. While its best known location is in Jackson Square, another is next to the New Orleans Museum of Art and sculpture garden in City Park. — Morning Call. It's the oldest Cafe du Monde rival in the beignet business. There's one at the end of the cemetery branch of the Canal streetcar line. When it's cocktail hour Locals take their cocktails seriously and a number of recipes — such as the Sazerac or Ramos Gin Fizz — originated in New Orleans. When the weather is pleasant, boutique hotel bars on St. Charles are among the places to be. — The Columns Hotel. This converted historic mansion has inviting outdoor seating beneath a sprawling canopy of massive live oaks and offers views off passing streetcars. A similar option is The Chloe, just four blocks down the avenue. — Hot Tin. This bar is on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel — a few doors down from Mr. John's and just blocks away from Commander's Palace — and offers a panoramic view of New Orleans' skyline from the Superdome to the Crescent City Connection bridge. — The Paradise Lounge. Located in the Hotel St. Vincent on Magazine Street, its dark wood and marble-top bar and tropical-themed wall paper make for an inviting place to meet friends for a drink in the Lower Garden District. — Cure. Housed in a handsomely renovated building along the popular Freret Street corridor, Cure is committed to craft cocktails. — Jewel of the South. This relatively new spot is drawing critical acclaim for its cocktail scene. It is a small, inventive restaurant on the edge of the French Quarter. If you're looking for live music — Frenchman Street, which begins where the French Quarter ends at Esplanade Avenue, has several bars or clubs showcasing live traditional and modern jazz, brass, blues, funk and other genres. One is Snug Harbor, among the more sophisticated Jazz spots in the city. DBA, virtually next door, and the Spotted Cat across the street offer multiple options within steps of one another. — Tipitinas is one of the most revered music venues in town; it is Uptown near the river. Many of New Orleans' best known bands and musicians play there between dates booked with traveling, widely known acts. — For a more intimate music scene, try the Maple Leaf on Oak Street (next door to Jacque-Imo's); Dos Jefes on Tchoupitoulas Street; or Bacchanal, a rustic wine shop deep in the Bywater with outdoor seating and performances by a regular rotation of musicians. Some other attractions — Audubon Park and City Park. These are beloved public spaces filled with large oak trees adorned with dangling Spanish moss, as well as magnolia trees and subtropical vegetation. Joggers and walkers flock to both (as do migrating birds). There are challenging public golf courses, as well as other attractions, contained within each of the parks. Audubon has the zoo, City Park has the New Orleans Museum of Art and Sculpture Garden, as well as paddle boats and the Children's Museum. — Other museum favorites of New Orleans residents include the Ogden Museum of Southern Art and the World War II Museum.
