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Berghaus Has Relaunched 'That' Jacket – the One Made Famous by Liam Gallagher
Berghaus Has Relaunched 'That' Jacket – the One Made Famous by Liam Gallagher

Hypebeast

time6 days ago

  • Entertainment
  • Hypebeast

Berghaus Has Relaunched 'That' Jacket – the One Made Famous by Liam Gallagher

Oasiskicked off their highly anticipatedLive '25reunion tour earlier this month, 16 years after the Gallagher brothers' public falling-out that led to the band's split. The Britpop band's impact on British culture in the 1990s can't be overstated – they helped define a generation, not just through their music, but with their style, too. From bucket hats to Burberry check and fishtail parkas to buttoned-up polo shirts, Oasis' look became the Britpop uniform: a blend of classic mod style, sartorialized football terraces and Manchester-born attitude that immortalized a moment in British music that reverberated far beyond the UK. Through it all,Berghaus– the British outerwear brand with a German-sounding name – was right there in the mix. In 1997, at an Oasis show in Oslo, Liam Gallagher appeared on-stage wearing a redMerujacket by Berghaus. Liam, the younger Gallagher brother, was already known for having a penchant for long parkas and statement outerwear, but his choice that night – captured in a now-iconic photograph – catapulted the brand into the consciousness of both Oasis fans and the fashion-obsessed. Now, Berghaus is marking the moment by rereleasing theMerujacket in 'the exact colorway Liam wore' as part of theConcert Collection, a limited-edition capsule that also features two other iconic pieces from the Berghaus archive. TheMerujacket, which originally launched in 1994, is being made available in 'Red/Blue' (Liam's choice), 'Purple/Grey' and 'Green/Black'. Berghaus is also resurrecting theTrangojacket, a heavy-duty waterproof jacket from 1986 that it describes as 'specialist powerhouse'. TheTrangofeatures a triple layer of GORE-TEX for maximum protection from wind and water, and comes in choices of 'Red/Blue', 'Red/Grey' and 'Grey/Dark Blue'. Alongside the jackets, the brand is launching the1997 Fleece– a new piece in its range, even if its name suggests otherwise – that it calls a 'staple [with] the DNA of an icon'. The fleece features a boxy cut for elevated coziness, with colors available including 'Red/Blue', 'Red/Grey' and 'Green/Grey'. The fullConcert Collectionis available now via Berghaus'websitewith prices starting at £120 GBP (approx. $162 USD).

Bellotti's Hamburg soundscapes: A preview of his Jil Sander debut
Bellotti's Hamburg soundscapes: A preview of his Jil Sander debut

Fashion United

time17-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Fashion United

Bellotti's Hamburg soundscapes: A preview of his Jil Sander debut

Simone Bellotti brings Jil Sander back to Hamburg. But what does the new creative director's debut sound like and what does it reveal about his future direction for the brand? Even before his official catwalk debut as creative director of Jil Sander, Bellotti has offered a first glimpse into his vision. Instead of a fashionable tour de force, the Italian fashion designer opted for an atmospheric video called "Wanderlust", which focused on music and the Hanseatic city of Hamburg. Bellotti paid homage to the label's origins, returning to the place where Heidemarie Jiline "Jil" Sander opened her first boutique in 1968. The designer's decision to choose Hamburg and turn his back on Milan, at least for now, seems more than symbolic. It appears as a programmatic indication of how seriously he takes the house's DNA. In an industry where changes in creative leadership are often accompanied by great theatrical pathos, this debut seems almost decelerated but by no means powerless. On the contrary, the video seems like a quiet prelude with the potential for a long reverberation. Preview without fashion For his first preview of his vision for Jil Sander, Bellotti not only decided against Milan, but also largely against fashion in the classic sense. Clothing took a backseat to a vision defined more by music and atmosphere. The video is accompanied by a previously unreleased track by the Italian composer Bochum Welt, whose real name is Gianluigi Di Costanzo. He is an artist with a German-sounding alias, whose music oscillates between technoid melancholy and intellectual electronica. This choice hardly seems accidental. Rather, it suggests that this very field of tension – Germany and Italy, intellectualism and nostalgia – could also shape Bellotti's own signature. Jil Sander "Wanderlust" Credits: Jil Sander Jil Sander "Wanderlust" Credits: Jil Sander Like the brand itself, the chosen music appears intellectual, minimalist and permeated with emotional undertones. These are qualities that correspond to both Hamburg's architecture and Jil Sander's purist approach. The titles of the vinyl EP produced especially for this project – available in Jil Sander stores from August – also tell of inner tensions and contrasts: Crystal Ice; Wanderlust; Shades; Night's Frost; San Peder a Sent; More Light (Escape Mix); and Cresting Waves seem like sonic musings on day and night, standstill and movement, urbanity and nature. These are themes that could also shape Bellotti's debut collection. Jil Sander "Wanderlust" Credits: Jil Sander Jil Sander "Wanderlust" Credits: Jil Sander The video itself also appears reduced, but rich in symbolism. Bellotti, who previously worked at Bally and had formative stints at Carol Christian Poell and Gianfranco Ferré, uses the return to Hamburg as more than just a historical reference. He signals a possible return to the source, not only geographically, but ideologically. Jil Sander has always stood for a special kind of rigour: the intellect of the Bauhaus, the restraint of German minimalism and the sensuality of androgyny. For Bellotti, this formula seems less a relic and more a blueprint to be further developed. Jil Sander "Wanderlust" Credits: Jil Sander Another creative upheaval for Jil Sander What should benefit him is his experience in dealing with traditional brands. At the Swiss label Bally, founded in 1851, which he most recently led as creative director, he found subtle ways to incorporate Swiss folklore – from small cowbells to the legend of the Engadine mermaids – into his designs. He did this without alienating the brand known for its leather craftsmanship or losing his own signature. His talent for embedding personal narratives even in the strictest brand architecture could also benefit him at Jil Sander. The challenge Bellotti now faces lies in the balance between respecting heritage and developing his own signature. Jil Sander is familiar with such creative transitions. Since the founder's first withdrawal in 2000, the house has experienced several changes of ownership and designers: from the Italian luxury group Prada to the fashion conglomerate OTB (Only The Brave), from the intellectual elegance of Raf Simons to the sophisticated craftsmanship of Luke and Lucie Meier. Now it is up to Bellotti to grapple with the brand's deep roots in German design ideals. His first collection in September will show where his creative journey will take him. However, in Hamburg, much already pointed to the beginning of a new chapter. One without a radical break, but as a respectful further development. This article was translated to English using an AI tool. FashionUnited uses AI language tools to speed up translating (news) articles and proofread the translations to improve the end result. This saves our human journalists time they can spend doing research and writing original articles. Articles translated with the help of AI are checked and edited by a human desk editor prior to going online. If you have questions or comments about this process email us at info@

How ‘Islands' Producer Augenschein Segued From Foreign-Language Arthouse Fare to English-Language Elevated Genre Movies
How ‘Islands' Producer Augenschein Segued From Foreign-Language Arthouse Fare to English-Language Elevated Genre Movies

Yahoo

time15-02-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Yahoo

How ‘Islands' Producer Augenschein Segued From Foreign-Language Arthouse Fare to English-Language Elevated Genre Movies

German production company Augenschein has just added 'The Weight,' starring Ethan Hawke and Russell Crowe, to its slate. Company founders Jonas Katzenstein and Maximilian Leo talk to Variety about how they made the shift from foreign-language arthouse fare to English-language elevated genre movies, with stars attached. Despite its very German-sounding name — which roughly translates as the 'shine of the eye' — Augenschein has the global market firmly in its sights. As for the films, they are defined by their 'signature-style directing,' Leo says. More from Variety From 'The Substance' to 'Titane' Genre Films Grab Solid Ground at Top Festivals and at the Box Office Cannes Short Film Winner Vasilis Kekatos Makes Feature Debut With Spirited, Coming-of-Age Berlinale Premiere 'Our Wildest Days' Yao Chen's Bad Rabbit Pictures Plots 'Fleabag'-Style Premium Short Drama About Chinese Sea Goddess (EXCLUSIVE) Its Berlin lineup is led by Jan-Ole Gerster's thriller 'Islands,' starring Sam Riley, Stacy Martin and Jack Farthing, which world-premieres Sunday in the Berlinale Special Gala section, with Protagonist handling world sales. Other films on its slate include David Lowery's pop melodrama 'Mother Mary,' starring Anne Hathaway and Michaela Cole, with A24 handling worldwide distribution; and Brian Kirk's action thriller 'The Death of Winter,' formerly known as 'The Fisherwoman,' starring Emma Thompson, and produced with Stampede Ventures. 'The Weight,' set in Oregon in 1933, is directed by Padraic McKinley. It is produced by Simon Fields and Nathan Fields for Fields Entertainment, Ryan Hawke for Under the Influence, and Katzenstein and Leo at Augenschein. The shift to English-language elevated genre films came after 2017, which Katzenstein describes as their 'peak year for world cinema,' when they had a film each in Sundance, Berlin and Cannes, and three films in Venice, winning a Berlin Silver Bear with 'Ana, My Love.' 'We thought that's our top year. Everything is marvellous. The festival record was great. But all these movies, there was no real impact on the market besides the festival. So that felt a little frustrating,' Katzenstein says. It provoked a 'producer midlife crisis,' Leo adds. Katzenstein continues: 'So, we thought, let's use these director-driven movies, but transform them into English-language movies with Hollywood stars, and then there's much more marketing power behind it, much more attention. We can tell the same stories, but there's more potential with this approach.' The shift began with 2019's plane hijacking thriller '7500,' starring Joseph Gordon-Levitt, which 'opened a lot of doors for us,' Leo says. Having learned the hard way to finance film with foreign-language arthouse fare, Katzenstein and Leo surprised agents in L.A. when they were looking to sign talent. When they were asked how much money they needed, Leo says, they responded, ''Oh no, we don't need money,' because we already knew how to finance our movies. That was something special. Also, it gave us creative control.' Katzenstein adds, 'Economically, it became the best experience we ever had. It was our 23rd movie, and it made more than the first 22 combined, easily.' Looking at the state of the market for independent films like theirs today, Katzenstein says it is 'challenging, but still possible; the pre-sale market is a little more difficult.' Leo says with a smile, 'We used to do impossible to finance movies, and now they are hard to finance.' Recent changes to the German film law have been a 'huge help,' Leo adds. 'Germany has one of the strongest film funding systems in the world.' Best of Variety New Movies Out Now in Theaters: What to See This Week Grammy Predictions, From Beyoncé to Kendrick Lamar: Who Will Win? Who Should Win? What's Coming to Netflix in February 2025

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