Latest news with #GoldenTrain
Telegraph
13-06-2025
- Telegraph
The new rail journey opening up Norway's ‘heavenly' valley
According to the mother of Harry Hole, Jo Nesbø's fictional detective, God spent so much time perfecting the Norwegian valley of Romsdalen that the rest of the world had to be finished in a hurry to have it done by Sunday. The Golden Train has been created to share its beauty with a new audience, but the name gives a clue to a darker episode in its past. The starting point of my Nordic journey was the region's principal town, Ålesund, which, on a winter's night in 1904, was burnt to the ground, leaving 10,000 people homeless. But an architectural phoenix rose from the ashes. Within three years it was reconstructed in the Art Nouveau, or Jugendstil, style, creating one of the finest places in Europe to appreciate this form: all Viking motifs, fancy gables and wrought-iron balconies. A railway was supposed to link Ålesund with Åndalsnes, from which the Golden Train begins, but the construction costs through the mountainous terrain proved too daunting even for Norway, with its fabulous sovereign wealth fund. So to reach Åndalsnes, you have to drive around Romsdalfjord or take the spectacular bus route over the rugged Ørskogfjellet – one of those roads where you are thankful not to be at the wheel, so you can enjoy the landscape. Åndalsnes, a popular cruise port, lies almost at the head of the fjord, at the foot of Romsdalen and the mouth of the Rauma river, which the railway follows all the way to Dombas on the Oslo-Trondheim main line. The Golden Train, with its refurbished carriages, is a revival of a 1930s service that took passengers along the most spectacular part of the railway as far as Bjorli, where a station restaurant could serve 700 passengers. Today the train makes two daily round-trips of two and a half hours with a well-judged commentary by Aaron Johnston, a Scot from Troon who is now a local archaeologist. The line has to climb 1,872 feet in the 36 miles to Bjorli, and features two partly tunnelled horseshoe curves and a crossing of the river by the Kylling Bridge, 200 feet above the water. It's an extraordinary piece of railway engineering that took 12 years to build, being opened by King Haakon VII in 1924. It was dictated by the landscape, which is as spectacular as Nesbø suggests. Trollveggen (Troll Wall) is northern Europe's highest vertical cliff face at 3,600 feet, and the Romsdalshorn mountain is wonderfully distinctive, as though a giant with an ice-cream scoop has had a go at one face. The broad Rauma river is seldom out of view as it tumbles over rapids, its waters fed by numerous falls down the mountains that flank the valley and rise to coxcomb summits, still white with spring snow. Those waters, Aaron tells us, have attracted fly-fishing 'salmon lords' since the 19th century. Lord Beresford and William Bromley-Davenport came in 1849 and caught over 300 salmon, to the astonishment of locals whose nets had never had such success. Bromley-Davenport so fell in love with the area that he bought a farm, still owned by the family. As we returned after a short time at Bjorli, noting the foundations of the huge restaurant destroyed by bombs in 1940, Aaron told us the story behind the train's name. When Germany invaded Norway in 1940, the Nazis wanted the country's king and the gold reserves. The cat-and-mouse story of how a small group eluded capture as they transported 50 tons of gold from Oslo to waiting British warships is brilliantly and faithfully told in the 2022 film Gold Run. The railway was used between Lillehammer and Åndalsnes, where one of the three consignments, separated to reduce the risk of total loss, was loaded on to the cruiser HMS Galathea. The wooded slopes of the mountains and their steep sides helped to hide the train from German bombers while it waited for the right moment to reach Åndalsnes. The second consignment went by lorry to Molde, where it joined the king on HMS Glasgow, and the third went by fishing boats to Tromsø and HMS Enterprise. Not a bar was lost. Just outside Åndalsnes, I stayed at the picturesque Hotel Aak, used by 19th-century English alpinist William Cecil Slingsby when he came to Norway to climb. He became so revered as the 'father of Norwegian mountaineering' that native climbers would visit him at his Yorkshire home in Carleton. One of Norway's oldest tourist hotels, the Aak is now popular with walkers, and its talented chef is among the crazy BASE jumpers who fling themselves off the valley summits wearing a wing suit and parachute. The valley is used to such extreme activity; its dramatic setting has hosted many films, including the railway bridge scene and the motorcycle jump in Mission Impossible – Dead Reckoning, starring Tom Cruise, and Romsdalen stands in for The Gorge in the 2025 science fiction film. A gentler means of reaching the summit of Nesaksla mountain is provided by the Romsdalen cable car, adjacent to Åndalsnes station and the Norwegian Mountaineering Museum, which has Norway's highest indoor climbing wall. Nesaksla offers panoramic views up half a dozen valleys and along the fjord, and the summit's Eggen restaurant is a destination in its own right. It's easy to see why Jo Nesbø was so keen to share this heavenly corner of Norway with the world. How to do it Norwegian offers direct flights from Gatwick to Ålesund Vigra from £57. Hotel Aak has standard double rooms with breakfast from £210. Stays at the 1904 Hotel in Ålesund cost from £144. Tickets for the Golden Train cost from £47. See for more information. Three more unmissable Norwegian train journeys Bergen–Oslo Bergen is a good place to start a Norwegian rail holiday, with direct flights from eight UK airports, and the railway line to Oslo is one of the best journeys. There is hardly a dull moment in the seven-hour journey as the upland farming country gives way to wilder landscapes and the central plateau, so empty that the area around Finse was used for the ice planet of Hoth in Star Wars: The Empire Strikes Back. On the descent to the capital, the train takes the beautiful Hallingdal valley, criss-crossing the river. Farms return to the landscape before the junction of Hønefoss and suburbs of Oslo. Myrdal–Flåm Leave the Bergen–Oslo line at Myrdal for the ride to Flåm, one of Norway's most visited cruise ports because the railway is one of the country's best-loved tourist attractions. Though only around 12 miles long, it descends 2,381ft at gradients so steep that some locomotives on the line were fitted with four brake systems. It is the steepest standard-gauge railway in Europe and has 20 tunnels as well as snow shelters. The views over Sognefjord, Norway's deepest and longest fjord, are spectacular as the train gingerly twists down the mountainside. Oslo–Bodø With the first section opening in 1854 and the last in 1962, this 801-mile railway was a long time in the making. Best broken by a night or two in the old capital of Trondheim, the journey offers seascapes, mountain panoramas, desolate plateau, dark forests and some of Norway's loveliest valleys. It's one of the few railways to penetrate the Arctic Circle, and you would be unlucky not to see reindeer, elk or musk ox at some point. It also takes you to Hell, a junction with connections for Sweden. Bodø has a huge aircraft museum, with dozens of planes including a Hurricane, and a museum of the town's past.
Forbes
28-04-2025
- Forbes
On Norway's Golden Train, Every Mountain Tells A Story
The town of Åndalsnes is the starting point of the historic and scenic 'Golden Train' charter service in Norway. As the Golden Train winds its way through Norway's wildest landscapes, passing beneath towering peaks, beside tumbling waterfalls, and along deep glacial valleys, it offers more than just jaw-dropping views. This is a scenic train ride, yes, but also a journey through centuries of Nordic legend and wartime drama. In 1940, as Nazi forces invaded Norway, the country's gold reserves were spirited away along this very route. That heroic escape lives on in the Golden Train's name and narrative today. Operating between the fjord-side town of Åndalsnes and the alpine village of Dombås, the Rauma Line covers just 71 kilometres—but what it lacks in length, it more than makes up for in drama. The route passes iconic landmarks such as the vertigo-inducing Kylling Bridge and the towering Trollveggen cliff, Europe's tallest vertical rock face. But what sets this train apart is not just the scenery outside the window, it's the curated experience on board the special service aimed at both independent travelers and cruise ship visitors to Åndalsnes. While regular passenger trains do run along the Rauma Railway, they're primarily timed to connect with the main Oslo–Trondheim line at Dombås. For international visitors hoping to enjoy a scenic roundtrip journey from Åndalsnes, these services are far from convenient. That's where the Golden Train comes in. This dedicated charter transforms the journey into a seamless three-hour cultural experience. The 'Golden Train' rail route provides historic commentary alongside the scenic views. The route includes slow travel past iconic photo stops such as Kylling Bridge and Trollveggen, onboard storytelling with a focus on folklore and wartime history, and a short break at the alpine outpost of Bjorli before returning to Åndalsnes. Tickets can be purchased independently through the Golden Train website or via selected cruise lines. The train operates most days during the summer season, with additional departures in the spring and autumn on days when cruise ships are docked in Åndalsnes. The name 'Golden Train' is not just a poetic flourish. It pays tribute to one of the most dramatic episodes in Norway's World War II history. In April 1940, as German forces invaded the country, Norwegian officials scrambled to evacuate the nation's gold reserves (about 50 tonnes) to prevent it from falling into Nazi hands. The evacuation plan, codenamed The Heavy Luggage, saw the gold transported north from Oslo by road and rail under immense pressure. One of the most critical legs of this operation ran along the Rauma Railway, where a heavily guarded train carried the treasure through the very same mountains and valleys that today's train traverses. Despite Luftwaffe bombing raids and the chaos of advancing German troops, the train made it to Åndalsnes. From there, the gold continued by truck and ship, ultimately reaching safety in Britain and later North America. This daring mission helped finance the Norwegian government-in-exile and ensured the country retained its financial independence throughout the war. Today, this remarkable story is part of the onboard narrative, connecting the natural beauty of the route with the resilience and resourcefulness that define modern Norwegian history. Though the journey is short, the Rauma Railway packs in some of the most unforgettable scenery in Norway. 'Trollveggen' or 'The Troll's Wall' is an imposing sight at any time of year. Pictured here in March. One of the first jaw-dropping moments comes as the train first enters the Romsdal Valley, where sheer cliffs rise dramatically on either side of the turquoise Rauma River. Shortly afterwards, guests are treated to the route's most iconic landmark: Trollveggen, or the Troll Wall. Soaring more than 1,700 metres above the valley floor, it is Europe's tallest vertical rock face and a magnet for daring climbers. As the train glides beneath its shadow, the sheer scale of the cliff leaves little doubt as to where Norway's troll legends might have taken root. Further along the route, the train slows for Kylling Bridge, an architectural marvel completed in 1924. Its elegant stone arch spans a deep gorge, offering passengers the perfect photo opportunity as the train crawls across. Other scenic highlights include the foaming Vermafossen Waterfall and the tranquil farmlands near Bjorli, where the train pauses before beginning its return. Every twist and turn of the track reveals a new postcard-perfect view. Book tickets for the Golden Train in advance to avoid disappointment. Arriving by cruise? Åndalsnes train station is just a few minutes walk from the cruise ship pier. Booking directly will save you the markup of a cruise ship excursion.
Telegraph
04-02-2025
- Telegraph
Sail on the ultimate Arctic adventure with an epic voyage to Svalbard
Turning into Kongsfjorden in the awesome wilderness of Svalbard, guests on the Hurtigruten ship MS Trollfjord will brush the latitude line of 79 degrees – joining an exclusive band to travel this far north. The destination on this day is Ny-Ålesund, a former coal mine that has blossomed into an Arctic research station. It is where pioneer Roald Amundsen started expeditions to the North Pole. Relics of Ny-Ålesund's industrial past often stand in contrast to Svalbard's dramatic landscapes Credit : Andrea Klaussner Wandering around this hyper-remote community, there are plenty of echoes of its industrial past – as well as the world's most northerly post office. In contrast, the spectacular natural surroundings of Kongsfjorden – King's Fjord – are impeccably untouched. Formidable glaciers girdle stark mountains, flowing down to meet the sea where piratical skuas chase delicate terns. From out on deck you may spy small icebergs, seals, reindeer or an Arctic fox – and if you are very lucky a walrus, beluga whale or the ultimate symbol of Svalbard, the polar bear. While Svalbard is home to dramatic glaciers and stark mountains, its greatest icon is the polar bear Credit : Getty Ny-Ålseund is a port of call on Hurtigruten's mesmerising Svalbard Line, a cruise that also encompasses a great swathe of Norway's incredible coastline. This 15-day adventure, a round-trip from colourful Bergen, is part of Hurtigruten's premium Signature collection. Unlike this famous company's Original Voyages, where the ships double as a vital link between isolated communities, these are more leisurely cruises. An emphasis on exploration is afforded by several hours spent in each port, and a large dedicated Coastal Experience Team on board who can offer additional guidance. The Svalbard Line's 15-day Arctic adventure begins and ends in colourful Bergen Credit : Getty Guests can indulge in some exceptional optional excursions and activities in each destination. How about a spellbinding ride on the Golden Train from Åndalsnes, gliding past tumbling rivers to Europe's highest vertical mountain wall, Trollveggen? The next day you could be island-hopping on a local boat around the Træna archipelago, then getting close-up views of one of the world's most beautiful places, the Lofoten Islands, where traditional red fisherman's cabins are set against dramatic rock backdrops. Between those last two destinations, you'll cross the Arctic Circle with a treasured ceremony on deck – just part of the enlightening experience on board MS Trollfjord. The Hurtigruten MS Trollfjord sails through some of Norway's most beautiful waters Credit : Espen Mills Comfortable cabins and suites, along with panoramic lounges, are complemented by all-inclusive meals and drinks. There are no gimmicks – the accent is on enjoying the passing scenery in the long hours of sparkling daylight, enhanced by expert lectures, musical entertainment and culinary demonstrations. Indeed, the food is a big part of this journey, with fresh regional ingredients carefully prepared by talented chefs, a concept called Norway's Coastal Kitchen. You will actually sail past the fjords and meadows from which much of the ship's produce is sourced. MS Trollfjord has three elegant restaurants and a welcoming bar. Imagine starting an evening with a cocktail inspired by mythical Valhalla, then feasting on carpaccio of clipfish (dried cod) and rosemary-roasted lamb from a daily-changing menu. Bustling Tromsø, boasting a striking modern cathedral as well as classic wooden buildings, is the next port, then there's the chance to drive a quad bike to the breathtaking North Cape settlement atop soaring cliffs. Tromsø is just one of the exciting Arctic port stops on the Svalbard Line Credit : Getty Heading ever northwards into the vast Barents Sea, the rarely-seen Bear Island looms on the horizon. On a sail-past, you'll learn about its rich population of seabirds. Many of those arriving at Svalbard will feel this is the closest they will get to leaving the planet, so remote are the landscapes. Longyearbyen – the other port visited in this archipelago – will therefore come as a surprise. This cosmopolitan town of about 1,000 people boasts two excellent museums, restaurants and appealing little shops. One exciting activity is to take your seat on a wheeled sled behind a team of eager huskies. Longyearbyen is home to charming little shops as well as exciting outdoor activities Credit : Getty On the way back south, there are plenty more memories to be made. At Senja island – dubbed the Caribbean of the North – a safari can be enjoyed among the turquoise waters and white-sand beaches. Perhaps you will opt to discover how the Vikings built their dwellings at Tromsø, or kayak on crystal backwaters during another call at the Lofoten Islands. Just make sure to book these excursions, which come at an additional cost, in advance. With white-sand beaches and glistening landscapes, it's no surprise Senja island is known as the Caribbean of the North Credit : Getty If you're short of time, it's possible to sail half the Svalbard Line route, north or south, flying to or back from Longyearbyen. Whichever option you choose, you'll have experienced a natural beauty that can only be described as otherworldly. Experience authentic Norway With more than 130 years of experience in Norwegian coastal cruising, Hurtigruten Cruises delivers an unparalleled experience with fascinating excursions, breathtaking views, and locally sourced dishes that offer a true taste of Norway. Book your voyage today at and save up to 25 per cent on Original Voyages and up to 15 per cent on Signature Voyages for departures until April 2026. Book by 3 March 2025.
