Latest news with #Italian-influenced
Sydney Morning Herald
30-07-2025
- Sydney Morning Herald
Port guide: Napier, New Zealand
Napier is a showcase of art deco architecture, with more than 140 buildings, built after a devastating 1931 earthquake, giving the city centre a remarkably uniform style. If you happen to sail in during February, the Art Deco Festival features jazz, vintage cars and special events. It's well worth heading to MTG Hawke's Bay for its museum exhibits on Maori heritage, earthquakes and local history. You can also tour Napier Prison for stories of ghosts and infamous jailbirds. Don't miss The National Aquarium of New Zealand on the waterfront, a short walk along Marine Parade from the town centre, has a splendid collection of creatures to admire in tanks and from see-through tunnels underwater. You can see tuataras (a species of lizard), little penguins and kiwis too. If you have children, they'll love the hands-on displays and 2.30pm feeding time. Get active Napier is compact, but its seashore promenades are a good place for a run. You can keep going for kilometres beyond down if you head south. Ahuriri Estuary Walking Track runs four kilometres in a loop, and you can birdwatch as you go: get there on a short bus ride, or add another few kilometres through town onto your running route. Best bites Loading The degustation menu at three-hatted chef Jeremy Rameka's Pacifica Restaurant is a brilliant showcase of contemporary New Zealand cuisine. For a more informal meal, head to Central Fire Station Bistro for delicious French and Italian-influenced dishes such as sweet corn dumplings, gnocchi with gorgonzola, and beef sirloin in a rich shiitake bordelaise sauce. Wine lovers should get beyond town to investigate the region's Chardonnay, Syrah and Merlot-Cabernet blends at any of 70 cellar doors, including New Zealand's oldest winery Mission Estate, prestigious Te Mata Estate, and scenic Elephant Hill. Further afield Napier is centred on fertile farmland, orchards and river valleys and sits in the middle of the Hawke's Bay wine region, with many excursions focused on cellar doors or local chocolate and honey producers. Nearby Cape Kidnappers is renowned both for golf and one of the world's largest gannet colonies, a remarkable sight as the wide-winged birds swoop and screech. From the top of Te Mata, spectacular views unfold over the landscape and Napier's twin town Hastings. If you're interested in Maori history, head to Hakikino Conservation Reserve.
The Age
30-07-2025
- The Age
Port guide: Napier, New Zealand
Napier is a showcase of art deco architecture, with more than 140 buildings, built after a devastating 1931 earthquake, giving the city centre a remarkably uniform style. If you happen to sail in during February, the Art Deco Festival features jazz, vintage cars and special events. It's well worth heading to MTG Hawke's Bay for its museum exhibits on Maori heritage, earthquakes and local history. You can also tour Napier Prison for stories of ghosts and infamous jailbirds. Don't miss The National Aquarium of New Zealand on the waterfront, a short walk along Marine Parade from the town centre, has a splendid collection of creatures to admire in tanks and from see-through tunnels underwater. You can see tuataras (a species of lizard), little penguins and kiwis too. If you have children, they'll love the hands-on displays and 2.30pm feeding time. Get active Napier is compact, but its seashore promenades are a good place for a run. You can keep going for kilometres beyond down if you head south. Ahuriri Estuary Walking Track runs four kilometres in a loop, and you can birdwatch as you go: get there on a short bus ride, or add another few kilometres through town onto your running route. Best bites Loading The degustation menu at three-hatted chef Jeremy Rameka's Pacifica Restaurant is a brilliant showcase of contemporary New Zealand cuisine. For a more informal meal, head to Central Fire Station Bistro for delicious French and Italian-influenced dishes such as sweet corn dumplings, gnocchi with gorgonzola, and beef sirloin in a rich shiitake bordelaise sauce. Wine lovers should get beyond town to investigate the region's Chardonnay, Syrah and Merlot-Cabernet blends at any of 70 cellar doors, including New Zealand's oldest winery Mission Estate, prestigious Te Mata Estate, and scenic Elephant Hill. Further afield Napier is centred on fertile farmland, orchards and river valleys and sits in the middle of the Hawke's Bay wine region, with many excursions focused on cellar doors or local chocolate and honey producers. Nearby Cape Kidnappers is renowned both for golf and one of the world's largest gannet colonies, a remarkable sight as the wide-winged birds swoop and screech. From the top of Te Mata, spectacular views unfold over the landscape and Napier's twin town Hastings. If you're interested in Maori history, head to Hakikino Conservation Reserve.
The Advertiser
16-07-2025
- Entertainment
- The Advertiser
Food Bites: Lake Macquarie local in MasterChef: Back to Win top 8
If you're not watching MasterChef Australia: Back to Win right now, you're missing out on some world-class cooking from the top eight contestants. One of them is Lake Macquarie pharmacist, cook and mother-of-two Depinder Chhibber, who bowled over the judges with her decadent Raj Kachori in a recent episode. She's a popular contestant, and for good reason. Talking to her on Monday, I was struck by her intellect, her sense of humour, and her generosity of spirit ... not to mention her cooking talent. I'll be sharing the finer details of our chat in a Saturday Weekender soon. Depinder moved to Australia from India at the age of 11 and grew up in the suburbs of Lake Macquarie, attending St Paul's Catholic College at Booragul and Merewether High School. She still resides in the area with her family and works part-time as a pharmacist. Also, Depinder's intimate supper club, Ghar, is up and running again and already booked out until October ... details are on her socials. MasterChef Australia: Back to Win airs Sunday at 7pm, and Monday to Wednesday at 7.30pm on 10. I stopped by QT Newcastle last week to meet Jana Restaurant & Bar's new executive chef, Carmine Mari, and sample his southern Italian-influenced menu. There's a lot of love in his cooking. Each dish is a nod to family, culture and tradition. It makes him proud to share the food he grew up with, you can tell. The thin-sliced roasted veal girello and tuna sauce with capers, pickled onion and croutons, as a starter, was a stand-out. I also loved the tuna crudo with blood orange, capers, Spanish onion and crispy shallot, and the burrata with ciambotta. The QT Lasagna with mortadella, zucchini, pistachio, smoked provolone and chilli potato gnocchi, and the potato gnocchi with Manjimup Black Truffle, sauteed field mushroom and parmesan? Wow. Then there was the delightful half-roast chicken with chicory, fregola, panchetta and jus gras pork cotoletta, and the dry-aged duck breast with roast beetroot, celeriac puree and Hunter Valley red wine reduction. Do yourself a favour and book a table for dinner. Babbingtons Restaurant & Bar at the Apollo International Hotel in Charlestown is turning 40. It's hosted countless special occasions over four decades, and is a bit of a hidden gem, really. Favourable word of mouth leads many a curious diner there. "Babbingtons has always been more than just a restaurant - it's a place where memories are made," said Apollo's sales and marketing co-ordinator Maree Bendeich. "We've had the privilege of being part of our guests' special moments for decades, and we're looking forward to being part of many more to come." To mark this 40-year milestone, Babbingtons is hosting a cocktail celebration from 6pm on Friday, August 16, and you're invited. Phonic Duo will be performing, and there will be wine tastings by Oatley Wines. Tickets are $40 and include a limited-edition glass to take home as a keepsake. Book now through Sticky Tickets or email sales@ Comedian Merrick Watts is bringing An Idiot's Guide to Wine: Volume 2 to Newcastle's Spiegeltent on September 13 and 14. He's a qualified wine expert who judges at some of the most prestigious wine shows around the country, and on the night will be introducing people to six stand-out Australian wines, sharing tasting notes and snack pairings as well as plenty of highly questionable words of wisdom. Tickets are on sale now. Real McCoy, via VOK Beverages, recently sent me an interesting pitch: "Not all whiskeys are made for quiet reflection. Some are built to show up bold, smooth, and ready to turn any night into a good one." Intrigued, I sampled two of their new flavoured whiskey liqueurs, the Real McCoy Salted Caramel and the Real McCoy Buttered Popcorn. The Salted Caramel is silky and rich, with notes of creamy vanilla, toasty caramel, and a touch of sea salt, layered with hints of oak and butterscotch. A fine addition to an espresso martini. The Buttered Popcorn blends vanilla, caramel and butter with toasted oak, and works well with a whiskey sour. "With Real McCoy, we set out to redefine what a whiskey liqueur could be," brand manager Joh Einarson said. "We've focused on bold but balanced flavours crafted to be layered, versatile and genuinely enjoyable." It gets people talking at a social gathering, that's for sure. Details at Paired at Peregrin returns to The Beach Hotel at Merewether next Friday, July 25. This time around, the popular long-table dinner is a five-course truffle degustation featuring Gilbert Family Wines and Oakshade Truffles. Winemaker Will Gilbert and Oakshade Truffles owner Matt will share the passion and craft behind their produce, and you'll receive a drink on arrival. Tickets are $155 per person at And here's a sneak peek at the menu, which includes beef cheek and truffle vol-au-vent with shaved fresh truffle and pecorino; traditionelle half-shell scallop with pork belly and truffle polenta; prawn and truffle raviolo with truffle-cured egg yolk and burnt butter sauce; and lamb wellington with chard leaves, prosciutto, truffle and shiraz jus. Yum. Pilgrim's Pizzas has opened at 21 Main Road, Boolaroo. And, speaking of, Parks Bistro at Boolaroo Sports Club has a new, budget-friendly lunch specials menu. Goodtime Burgers are back at The Exchange for one weekend only, July 25 to 27. The Flotilla's new Late Winter Menu has launched. Fermento Pizza Joint has opened at 436 Maitland Road, Mayfield. Esca Bimbadgen is hosting a 1920s-inspired Speakeasy night on Friday, July 25. If you're not watching MasterChef Australia: Back to Win right now, you're missing out on some world-class cooking from the top eight contestants. One of them is Lake Macquarie pharmacist, cook and mother-of-two Depinder Chhibber, who bowled over the judges with her decadent Raj Kachori in a recent episode. She's a popular contestant, and for good reason. Talking to her on Monday, I was struck by her intellect, her sense of humour, and her generosity of spirit ... not to mention her cooking talent. I'll be sharing the finer details of our chat in a Saturday Weekender soon. Depinder moved to Australia from India at the age of 11 and grew up in the suburbs of Lake Macquarie, attending St Paul's Catholic College at Booragul and Merewether High School. She still resides in the area with her family and works part-time as a pharmacist. Also, Depinder's intimate supper club, Ghar, is up and running again and already booked out until October ... details are on her socials. MasterChef Australia: Back to Win airs Sunday at 7pm, and Monday to Wednesday at 7.30pm on 10. I stopped by QT Newcastle last week to meet Jana Restaurant & Bar's new executive chef, Carmine Mari, and sample his southern Italian-influenced menu. There's a lot of love in his cooking. Each dish is a nod to family, culture and tradition. It makes him proud to share the food he grew up with, you can tell. The thin-sliced roasted veal girello and tuna sauce with capers, pickled onion and croutons, as a starter, was a stand-out. I also loved the tuna crudo with blood orange, capers, Spanish onion and crispy shallot, and the burrata with ciambotta. The QT Lasagna with mortadella, zucchini, pistachio, smoked provolone and chilli potato gnocchi, and the potato gnocchi with Manjimup Black Truffle, sauteed field mushroom and parmesan? Wow. Then there was the delightful half-roast chicken with chicory, fregola, panchetta and jus gras pork cotoletta, and the dry-aged duck breast with roast beetroot, celeriac puree and Hunter Valley red wine reduction. Do yourself a favour and book a table for dinner. Babbingtons Restaurant & Bar at the Apollo International Hotel in Charlestown is turning 40. It's hosted countless special occasions over four decades, and is a bit of a hidden gem, really. Favourable word of mouth leads many a curious diner there. "Babbingtons has always been more than just a restaurant - it's a place where memories are made," said Apollo's sales and marketing co-ordinator Maree Bendeich. "We've had the privilege of being part of our guests' special moments for decades, and we're looking forward to being part of many more to come." To mark this 40-year milestone, Babbingtons is hosting a cocktail celebration from 6pm on Friday, August 16, and you're invited. Phonic Duo will be performing, and there will be wine tastings by Oatley Wines. Tickets are $40 and include a limited-edition glass to take home as a keepsake. Book now through Sticky Tickets or email sales@ Comedian Merrick Watts is bringing An Idiot's Guide to Wine: Volume 2 to Newcastle's Spiegeltent on September 13 and 14. He's a qualified wine expert who judges at some of the most prestigious wine shows around the country, and on the night will be introducing people to six stand-out Australian wines, sharing tasting notes and snack pairings as well as plenty of highly questionable words of wisdom. Tickets are on sale now. Real McCoy, via VOK Beverages, recently sent me an interesting pitch: "Not all whiskeys are made for quiet reflection. Some are built to show up bold, smooth, and ready to turn any night into a good one." Intrigued, I sampled two of their new flavoured whiskey liqueurs, the Real McCoy Salted Caramel and the Real McCoy Buttered Popcorn. The Salted Caramel is silky and rich, with notes of creamy vanilla, toasty caramel, and a touch of sea salt, layered with hints of oak and butterscotch. A fine addition to an espresso martini. The Buttered Popcorn blends vanilla, caramel and butter with toasted oak, and works well with a whiskey sour. "With Real McCoy, we set out to redefine what a whiskey liqueur could be," brand manager Joh Einarson said. "We've focused on bold but balanced flavours crafted to be layered, versatile and genuinely enjoyable." It gets people talking at a social gathering, that's for sure. Details at Paired at Peregrin returns to The Beach Hotel at Merewether next Friday, July 25. This time around, the popular long-table dinner is a five-course truffle degustation featuring Gilbert Family Wines and Oakshade Truffles. Winemaker Will Gilbert and Oakshade Truffles owner Matt will share the passion and craft behind their produce, and you'll receive a drink on arrival. Tickets are $155 per person at And here's a sneak peek at the menu, which includes beef cheek and truffle vol-au-vent with shaved fresh truffle and pecorino; traditionelle half-shell scallop with pork belly and truffle polenta; prawn and truffle raviolo with truffle-cured egg yolk and burnt butter sauce; and lamb wellington with chard leaves, prosciutto, truffle and shiraz jus. Yum. Pilgrim's Pizzas has opened at 21 Main Road, Boolaroo. And, speaking of, Parks Bistro at Boolaroo Sports Club has a new, budget-friendly lunch specials menu. Goodtime Burgers are back at The Exchange for one weekend only, July 25 to 27. The Flotilla's new Late Winter Menu has launched. Fermento Pizza Joint has opened at 436 Maitland Road, Mayfield. Esca Bimbadgen is hosting a 1920s-inspired Speakeasy night on Friday, July 25. If you're not watching MasterChef Australia: Back to Win right now, you're missing out on some world-class cooking from the top eight contestants. One of them is Lake Macquarie pharmacist, cook and mother-of-two Depinder Chhibber, who bowled over the judges with her decadent Raj Kachori in a recent episode. She's a popular contestant, and for good reason. Talking to her on Monday, I was struck by her intellect, her sense of humour, and her generosity of spirit ... not to mention her cooking talent. I'll be sharing the finer details of our chat in a Saturday Weekender soon. Depinder moved to Australia from India at the age of 11 and grew up in the suburbs of Lake Macquarie, attending St Paul's Catholic College at Booragul and Merewether High School. She still resides in the area with her family and works part-time as a pharmacist. Also, Depinder's intimate supper club, Ghar, is up and running again and already booked out until October ... details are on her socials. MasterChef Australia: Back to Win airs Sunday at 7pm, and Monday to Wednesday at 7.30pm on 10. I stopped by QT Newcastle last week to meet Jana Restaurant & Bar's new executive chef, Carmine Mari, and sample his southern Italian-influenced menu. There's a lot of love in his cooking. Each dish is a nod to family, culture and tradition. It makes him proud to share the food he grew up with, you can tell. The thin-sliced roasted veal girello and tuna sauce with capers, pickled onion and croutons, as a starter, was a stand-out. I also loved the tuna crudo with blood orange, capers, Spanish onion and crispy shallot, and the burrata with ciambotta. The QT Lasagna with mortadella, zucchini, pistachio, smoked provolone and chilli potato gnocchi, and the potato gnocchi with Manjimup Black Truffle, sauteed field mushroom and parmesan? Wow. Then there was the delightful half-roast chicken with chicory, fregola, panchetta and jus gras pork cotoletta, and the dry-aged duck breast with roast beetroot, celeriac puree and Hunter Valley red wine reduction. Do yourself a favour and book a table for dinner. Babbingtons Restaurant & Bar at the Apollo International Hotel in Charlestown is turning 40. It's hosted countless special occasions over four decades, and is a bit of a hidden gem, really. Favourable word of mouth leads many a curious diner there. "Babbingtons has always been more than just a restaurant - it's a place where memories are made," said Apollo's sales and marketing co-ordinator Maree Bendeich. "We've had the privilege of being part of our guests' special moments for decades, and we're looking forward to being part of many more to come." To mark this 40-year milestone, Babbingtons is hosting a cocktail celebration from 6pm on Friday, August 16, and you're invited. Phonic Duo will be performing, and there will be wine tastings by Oatley Wines. Tickets are $40 and include a limited-edition glass to take home as a keepsake. Book now through Sticky Tickets or email sales@ Comedian Merrick Watts is bringing An Idiot's Guide to Wine: Volume 2 to Newcastle's Spiegeltent on September 13 and 14. He's a qualified wine expert who judges at some of the most prestigious wine shows around the country, and on the night will be introducing people to six stand-out Australian wines, sharing tasting notes and snack pairings as well as plenty of highly questionable words of wisdom. Tickets are on sale now. Real McCoy, via VOK Beverages, recently sent me an interesting pitch: "Not all whiskeys are made for quiet reflection. Some are built to show up bold, smooth, and ready to turn any night into a good one." Intrigued, I sampled two of their new flavoured whiskey liqueurs, the Real McCoy Salted Caramel and the Real McCoy Buttered Popcorn. The Salted Caramel is silky and rich, with notes of creamy vanilla, toasty caramel, and a touch of sea salt, layered with hints of oak and butterscotch. A fine addition to an espresso martini. The Buttered Popcorn blends vanilla, caramel and butter with toasted oak, and works well with a whiskey sour. "With Real McCoy, we set out to redefine what a whiskey liqueur could be," brand manager Joh Einarson said. "We've focused on bold but balanced flavours crafted to be layered, versatile and genuinely enjoyable." It gets people talking at a social gathering, that's for sure. Details at Paired at Peregrin returns to The Beach Hotel at Merewether next Friday, July 25. This time around, the popular long-table dinner is a five-course truffle degustation featuring Gilbert Family Wines and Oakshade Truffles. Winemaker Will Gilbert and Oakshade Truffles owner Matt will share the passion and craft behind their produce, and you'll receive a drink on arrival. Tickets are $155 per person at And here's a sneak peek at the menu, which includes beef cheek and truffle vol-au-vent with shaved fresh truffle and pecorino; traditionelle half-shell scallop with pork belly and truffle polenta; prawn and truffle raviolo with truffle-cured egg yolk and burnt butter sauce; and lamb wellington with chard leaves, prosciutto, truffle and shiraz jus. Yum. Pilgrim's Pizzas has opened at 21 Main Road, Boolaroo. And, speaking of, Parks Bistro at Boolaroo Sports Club has a new, budget-friendly lunch specials menu. Goodtime Burgers are back at The Exchange for one weekend only, July 25 to 27. The Flotilla's new Late Winter Menu has launched. Fermento Pizza Joint has opened at 436 Maitland Road, Mayfield. Esca Bimbadgen is hosting a 1920s-inspired Speakeasy night on Friday, July 25. If you're not watching MasterChef Australia: Back to Win right now, you're missing out on some world-class cooking from the top eight contestants. One of them is Lake Macquarie pharmacist, cook and mother-of-two Depinder Chhibber, who bowled over the judges with her decadent Raj Kachori in a recent episode. She's a popular contestant, and for good reason. Talking to her on Monday, I was struck by her intellect, her sense of humour, and her generosity of spirit ... not to mention her cooking talent. I'll be sharing the finer details of our chat in a Saturday Weekender soon. Depinder moved to Australia from India at the age of 11 and grew up in the suburbs of Lake Macquarie, attending St Paul's Catholic College at Booragul and Merewether High School. She still resides in the area with her family and works part-time as a pharmacist. Also, Depinder's intimate supper club, Ghar, is up and running again and already booked out until October ... details are on her socials. MasterChef Australia: Back to Win airs Sunday at 7pm, and Monday to Wednesday at 7.30pm on 10. I stopped by QT Newcastle last week to meet Jana Restaurant & Bar's new executive chef, Carmine Mari, and sample his southern Italian-influenced menu. There's a lot of love in his cooking. Each dish is a nod to family, culture and tradition. It makes him proud to share the food he grew up with, you can tell. The thin-sliced roasted veal girello and tuna sauce with capers, pickled onion and croutons, as a starter, was a stand-out. I also loved the tuna crudo with blood orange, capers, Spanish onion and crispy shallot, and the burrata with ciambotta. The QT Lasagna with mortadella, zucchini, pistachio, smoked provolone and chilli potato gnocchi, and the potato gnocchi with Manjimup Black Truffle, sauteed field mushroom and parmesan? Wow. Then there was the delightful half-roast chicken with chicory, fregola, panchetta and jus gras pork cotoletta, and the dry-aged duck breast with roast beetroot, celeriac puree and Hunter Valley red wine reduction. Do yourself a favour and book a table for dinner. Babbingtons Restaurant & Bar at the Apollo International Hotel in Charlestown is turning 40. It's hosted countless special occasions over four decades, and is a bit of a hidden gem, really. Favourable word of mouth leads many a curious diner there. "Babbingtons has always been more than just a restaurant - it's a place where memories are made," said Apollo's sales and marketing co-ordinator Maree Bendeich. "We've had the privilege of being part of our guests' special moments for decades, and we're looking forward to being part of many more to come." To mark this 40-year milestone, Babbingtons is hosting a cocktail celebration from 6pm on Friday, August 16, and you're invited. Phonic Duo will be performing, and there will be wine tastings by Oatley Wines. Tickets are $40 and include a limited-edition glass to take home as a keepsake. Book now through Sticky Tickets or email sales@ Comedian Merrick Watts is bringing An Idiot's Guide to Wine: Volume 2 to Newcastle's Spiegeltent on September 13 and 14. He's a qualified wine expert who judges at some of the most prestigious wine shows around the country, and on the night will be introducing people to six stand-out Australian wines, sharing tasting notes and snack pairings as well as plenty of highly questionable words of wisdom. Tickets are on sale now. Real McCoy, via VOK Beverages, recently sent me an interesting pitch: "Not all whiskeys are made for quiet reflection. Some are built to show up bold, smooth, and ready to turn any night into a good one." Intrigued, I sampled two of their new flavoured whiskey liqueurs, the Real McCoy Salted Caramel and the Real McCoy Buttered Popcorn. The Salted Caramel is silky and rich, with notes of creamy vanilla, toasty caramel, and a touch of sea salt, layered with hints of oak and butterscotch. A fine addition to an espresso martini. The Buttered Popcorn blends vanilla, caramel and butter with toasted oak, and works well with a whiskey sour. "With Real McCoy, we set out to redefine what a whiskey liqueur could be," brand manager Joh Einarson said. "We've focused on bold but balanced flavours crafted to be layered, versatile and genuinely enjoyable." It gets people talking at a social gathering, that's for sure. Details at Paired at Peregrin returns to The Beach Hotel at Merewether next Friday, July 25. This time around, the popular long-table dinner is a five-course truffle degustation featuring Gilbert Family Wines and Oakshade Truffles. Winemaker Will Gilbert and Oakshade Truffles owner Matt will share the passion and craft behind their produce, and you'll receive a drink on arrival. Tickets are $155 per person at And here's a sneak peek at the menu, which includes beef cheek and truffle vol-au-vent with shaved fresh truffle and pecorino; traditionelle half-shell scallop with pork belly and truffle polenta; prawn and truffle raviolo with truffle-cured egg yolk and burnt butter sauce; and lamb wellington with chard leaves, prosciutto, truffle and shiraz jus. Yum. Pilgrim's Pizzas has opened at 21 Main Road, Boolaroo. And, speaking of, Parks Bistro at Boolaroo Sports Club has a new, budget-friendly lunch specials menu. Goodtime Burgers are back at The Exchange for one weekend only, July 25 to 27. The Flotilla's new Late Winter Menu has launched. Fermento Pizza Joint has opened at 436 Maitland Road, Mayfield. Esca Bimbadgen is hosting a 1920s-inspired Speakeasy night on Friday, July 25.
Eater
09-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Eater
Crawl Some of Dallas's Best Barbecue and Tacos With a Chef From a Michelin-Starred Restaurant
French- and Italian-influenced Mamani is one of Dallas's most anticipated restaurant openings of the year, in large part because chef Christophe De Lellis left his role as executive chef at Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas to open it and take a partner role in the Feels Like Home hospitality group, started by Brandon and Henry Cohanim (Namo, Bar Colette). De Lellis moved to Dallas about a year ago, and for a time took over the kitchen at Bar Colette. With his family, he moved into a house in the Lakewood area and has been eating his way through Dallas, learning to love two of the major food groups: barbecue (he says Terry Black's is his favorite so far) and tacos (he goes for Resident Taqueria). De Lellis joined Eater to visit a few favorite local haunts he hadn't tried yet and talk about the culture clash of going from Europe to Vegas to Texas, his thoughts on consomme (and consomé), and hot tips for shaking a good espresso martini. Hurtado Barbecue Our first stop is the newest location of Hurdato Barbecue in the Dallas Farmers Market in Uptown, where we order the El Jefe, which has one third of a pound each of brisket, pulled pork, spare ribs, turkey, burnt ends, and sausage. We add on sides of Mexican street corn, and De Lellis insists on a vegetable with actual fiber in it, so we also get the creamy red slaw. It was a bit of a negotiation to find a barbecue spot to visit with De Lellis because he'd already visited several that I initially suggested. He has truly been busy learning about Texas barbecue. The barbecue destinations have become the first places he takes visiting friends and family out to eat. 'I was surprised that in Las Vegas on the Strip there isn't barbecue. There are tourists from all over the world, and for most of them that equals American food. I never had barbecue until I moved to Texas,' he says, adding that all the Europeans he's taken to eat barbecue have loved it. This chef knows barbecue. From the appearance of the plate, De Lellis's expectations were high for the smoked turkey, but the pulled pork ended up being his favorite bite. 'I love all braised meats, shredded meats. In restaurants or for myself I like to cook beef cheeks and oxtail, and it reminds me of that,' he says. The pork rub and sauce are so flavorful that they overpower the rest of the tray. He suggests it would be good on a Cubano sandwich, and doesn't immediately shut down the idea of a Hurtado collaboration with Mamani, so we'll be looking out for it. The one thing that stumps him on the platter is the chile-dusted Mexican corn, Hurtado's take on traditional elote. This was the moment that the former chef from a three-Michelin-starred kitchen had the concept of taco seasoning, a blend of chili powder, cumin, garlic powder, and onion powder, explained to him by a Texan. Unlike the rest of us, he probably won't be picking up a jar in the grocery store. De Lellis will make his own. 'I get the cumin a lot, which is good because it brings a freshness to all the cheese and fat, almost cutting it,' he says. De Lellis notes that Hurtado and Terry Blacks do good sides, a small detail he feels is significant. 'For me, it is the small details,' he says. 'I judge the sides, because you can see the attention to detail. At most of the places you go, people don't know how to cook green beans and serve them undercooked, which I think is disgusting. Small details show how much care is taken every step of the way.' De Lellis says he has smoked meats before but not to make barbecue. 'I would love to learn and understand the craft from a pitmaster around here,' he tells me, noting that even in a French fine dining menu there may be some element of barbecue technique that he could incorporate. Chilangos Tacos The next stop is for birria tacos at Chilangos Tacos on Ross Avenue. De Lellis has already tried tacos, but has had no exposure to birria, so it's on. The initiated know this Old East Dallas location looks like your average strip mall spot from the parking lot, but inside is a party marked by a trompo, bright colors, and people queuing up for dripping, red-stained quesabirria tacos. We have to fight to get a little table after ordering a quesabirria platter. 'It does remind me of the taco joint I used to go to in Vegas, Tacos El Gordo,' he says, noting those were likely the first tacos he ever had, not long after he arrived in 2010. Chilangos never disappoints. Courtney E. Smith 'They do traditional tacos and it makes you feel like you're in Mexico.' He misses the Latin cooks he worked alongside in the kitchen in Vegas, who made their food for family meals, which he says was always the best. 'Mr. Robuchon loved Mexican food, and he would always ask the cooks to make it for him,' De Lellis says. 'I love the way Mexicans approach food, how they season it, even the beautiful ingredients they use.' When the birria hits the table (well, really when De Lellis politely picks it up after our order is called), he eyeballs the consomé and asks how we eat the spread. I tell him to sprinkle the onion and cilantro mix onto the quesabirria tacos and then dip them into the fatty broth made with meat drippings. After the first bite, he grabs the cup of consomé to try it. 'I love consomme,' he says, adding that it's the 'heart and soul' of his cooking, like a quintessential French chef would. 'When I did tasting menus back in Vegas, and before dessert I served a shot of consomme to the guests, something fresh like lemongrass with lime with chicken. It feels good after a heavy meal and cleans your palate.' Christophe De Lellis sits down for his first experience with birria. Courtney E. Smith This consomé, obviously, is not the same, he notes, but it does require the same building blocks. 'Whatever stock or broth you make, it is the most important thing,' he says. 'I prefer using three to five ingredients. That's why I love Mexican food. Robuchon told me this quote and I say it all the time and live by it: 'It is easy to make it complicated, but complicated to make it simple.'' Before we dive into the tacos, De Lellis tells me he is 50/50 on preferring flour tortillas over corn, but after we tear through the birria, he expresses a deeper appreciation for Chilango's crispy, savory corn tortillas. In fact, he's ready to not only sing its praises but to call Chilango's quesabirria one of his favorite tacos he has had in the country. Saint Valentine Finishing strong with a cocktail at Saint Valentine. Courtney E. Smith De Lellis orders the Sazerac and proclaims the fried olives a 'good snack.' I tell him that the Italian grocery store, which is kitty-corner from the bar, is one of the beloved spaces in town for dry goods, imported oils and vinegars, and a killer sandwich shop. Many Dallasites may not know that De Lellis was making bar bites himself at Colette for several months. When I stopped in roughly a year ago, he served me chicken fingers, caviar-topped potato chips, and sliders with a tomato confit he spent two hours making (yes, they were really good). 'I love to have a good cocktail with poutine,' he says, reminiscing about eating Irish nachos in Vegas. We all make weird food decisions when we drink, clearly. After a drink, De Lellis is ready to spill some secrets. 'I want to tell you something in confidence,' he says with a glint in his eye after we get into a discussion about the irrepressible popularity of the espresso martini. 'For a few months they were short staffed at Colette, and I was in the back, shaking espresso martinis,' he says, laughing. 'I had so much fun doing it, but I don't know those guys do. My arms were so sore. They sell so many, you can never take them off the menu.' We agree that a real espresso martini must be made with actual espresso, not coffee liqueur or cold brew. If you see De Lellis out and about, checking out Dallas bars, he says his go-to drink order is a Negroni Sbagliato. Send one over and tell him your favorite barbecue or taco spot and what to order there. He's well on his way to finding his standbys in Dallas, but a little extra help never hurts. Eater Dallas All your essential food and restaurant intel delivered to you Email (required) Sign Up By submitting your email, you agree to our Terms and Privacy Notice . This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Sydney Morning Herald
08-07-2025
- Sydney Morning Herald
Sydney hotel won't win any beauty awards, but it's all about location
I'm on one of the top floors, so my room features a floor-to-ceiling window not found on the lower storeys. It's narrow and on my previous stay I was concerned it would mean non-north facing rooms would be dark. I'm facing east on this occasion and the room remains bright late in the day as the sun bounces off the Radisson Blue Plaza opposite. At this height, that hotel looks very European so my view leaves me feeling a little like I'm in Paris rather than Sydney. The design changes are subtle from my last stay – the bedheads and bedside tables have been replaced with more modern versions, as has the lighting and carpet. The room is compact but functional enough, though something that bothered me last time – the desk sitting directly under the large TV screen – remains the same. The bathroom is also on the smallish side, with no bathtub, but at least it is an actual room with a door on it, unlike so many other modern hotel bathrooms. Toiletries are from Thankyou in large re-fillable bottles (though there's no moisturiser). Like many hotels these days, guests are encouraged to forego daily servicing ostensibly for sustainability reasons (though it also saves the hotel money, of course). However, in a nice touch, Rydges actually rewards guests with a $10 credit for food and drink every time they skip servicing. The food The restaurant remains the same as it was as the Tank Stream – Le Petit Flot, which features a French menu with Japanese flourishes, such as wagyu tartare, barramundi with seaweed butter or beef cheek with red wine miso jus. A new addition is the wine bar Poco off the lobby, with Italian-influenced share plates. Breakfast at Le Petit Flot is a standard buffet with all the items you'd expect. Stepping out You're in the heart of the CBD, with the emphasis on the B, so you won't find many attractions on your doorstep, but there is a multitude within a short walk. One of the closest is the Museum of Contemporary Art Australia at Circular Quay. The verdict While its original design limits what any brand can do with the building, Rydges has done a decent job of sprucing up the property. The central location means the best of the city is on your doorstep or at least a short walk or train/tram ride away. Lowlight My bed is rather noisy when getting up and down. It doesn't bother me too much but might bother couples (particularly amorous ones).
