24-04-2025
- Entertainment
- New York Times
Where the Menu Is Always Changing
Restaurants worth visiting again and again
Sometimes I have to remind myself that I don't eat like everyone else. The average person, maybe even the average New Yorker, might go to the same restaurants over and over again, throwing in a new dining spot every few months.
I am in perpetual pursuit of novelty. And, my dear readers, I'd love to move you in my direction. Outside my comfort zone, I've discovered new favorites and developed a far more discerning palate. I'm not so easily impressed anymore, and I'm a better diner for it.
A good place to start your journey to enlightenment? Restaurants where the menu is always changing; it's like listening to a new album by a band you already love. Here are three spots worth the listen.
The first thing you need to know about Confidant is that it's in Industry City. The second thing is that it's a fine-dining restaurant. Industry City is known for many things — furniture outlets, Japan Village, Sahadi's — but fine dining has never come to mind.
And yet, it works at Confidant, where for the length of your meal, you'll forget that you're adjacent to Brooklyn's only Costco. Since March, the chefs Daniel Grossman and Brendan Kelley have been spinning up a seasonal, date-stamped menu in a space that's longer than it is wide. Current menu highlights include a slice of sourdough dressed with piped trout mousse, little clumps of trout roe and dill; the chicory salad with wild rice; the sweet and salty beets and boquerones; and the prawn potpie, which is every bit as visually arresting as you might imagine. Confidant also has a dedicated pastry program — thank you — run by Mariah Neston, an alum of Le Rock. Go for the malted mille-feuille.
67 35th Street, Building #5 (Third Avenue)
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