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Eater
07-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Eater
The Thoughtful Preparation Behind Kato's Michelin-Starred Tasting Menu
Kato, a Michelin-starred tasting menu spot in Los Angeles, represents intersecting immigrant communities across the city, specifically in the San Gabriel Valley, where chef Jon Yao grew up. The 2025 James Beard Award winner for Best Chef: California prepares two tasting menus in his DTLA restaurant: a seasonal dining room version and shorter menu in the bar. First, Yao preps his recreation of Zī Rán Yáng, a cumin lamb stir fry dish from Northern China, with thick slices of aged lamb saddles cooked over a hearth and dusted with Kato's cumin spice blend. Rather than hoping for diners to have that Ratatoiulle moment, where the chef has created a dish that perfectly encapsulates a food memory from their childhood, Yao says he wants 'them to feel some sense of nostalgia regardless of what background they come from.' A day at Kato starts with morning sous chef Jivani Roldan prepping the dashi, a Japanese fish and kombu (dried seaweed) broth, by painstakingly shaving petrified skipjack tuna, cooking down the broth, and double straining it. Yao and Roldan check on the dozens of air-drying quail in the walk-in refrigerator, which Yao jokes is the same size as Kato's former kitchen in West LA. These quails are dry-aged, cured overnight, and air-dried for a few days before being coated in a maltose bath, lacquered in a sugar mixture, and lightly smoked before dinner service even starts. Yao believes all these small details in the process of prepping these dishes 'compounds' to create something extraordinary. Executive sous chef Alan Thau preps the crab, pulling all the meat out of the steamed shells with tweezers and then shining a black light over the crab meat to thoroughly check for any shells. Those crab shells are toasted in the oven and added to chicken stock, recreating the taste of shark fin soup, a delicacy in China and Southeast Asia, without having to use shark fins. Dry-aged sablefish is also prepped, cut down into 50 gram portions, and marinated in sour cabbage and mustard green broth, giving it a fermented flavor. Two hours before service, components of each dish are meticulously laid out on trays for Yao to taste, so he can make sure each sauce, custard, glaze, and prepped ingredient is ready for service. The kitchen has a complete turnover before service, with Yao talking through any adjustments to the menu and guest's dietary restrictions before the frenzy of plating the first course. Yao describes the 11 to 12 course menu as having 'pits and peaks throughout,' with plenty of starches and protein-filled courses throughout the meal. The quail is bathed in hot oil and baked in the oven and the sablefish is grilled and cooked in the hearth, before being plated. Diners leaving Kato should not only feel satiated but 'proud of their heritage,' Yao says. 'That's the beauty of fine dining right now. You get a lot of different stories and visions and opinions and perspectives. It's not so homogenous.' Watch the latest episode of Mise en Place to see how Yao and his team at Kato prepare crispy lamb, succulent quail, and seared sablefish at one of the hottest restaurants in Los Angeles. See More:
Forbes
19-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Forbes
These Are The 12 Best Chefs In America For 2025 Honored With James Beard Awards
Prize winning Chefs selected in America getty When it comes to one of the highest honors in the culinary world, the James Beard Awards lead the pack and are among the most coveted awards a restaurant and chef can receive. This week, the James Beard Foundation announced its Best Chef Award winners for 2025 at its 35th annual celebration in Chicago. The James Beard Awards are among the nation's most prestigious honors in the culinary industry. They recognize exceptional talent as well as a commitment to racial and gender equity, community, sustainability, and a culture where all can thrive. According to Clare Reichenbach, CEO of the James Beard Foundation, the Foundation is excited to celebrate outstanding achievement while continuing to build on its mission of "These outstanding professionals are the epitome of Good Food for Good®, elevating our industry's standards and redefining what's possible in American cuisine." This year's winning chefs set high standards in their culinary skills and leadership abilities and are making efforts to help create a sustainable work culture in their respective regions. Here are the Best Chef Winners for the 2025 James Beard Awards: Chef Jon Yao (C) and team at Kato Kato Restaurant Interior Kato Restaurant Kato Restaurant (One Michelin Star) Located in an industrial space in Downtown Los Angeles, Chef Jon Yao crafts contemporary cuisine rooted in the Taiwanese flavors of his childhood. At the heart of his kitchen is a wood-fired stove, where he choreographs a 12-course tasting menu over three hours. The high-end experience is complemented by a remarkable wine list featuring over 3,000 selections and a cocktail service that showcases signature drinks, including their own private-label Kavalan whisky. Chef Noah Sandoval in the kitchen of Oriole Oriole Interior Oriole Restaurant in Chicago Oriole (Two Michelin Stars) Located in a former warehouse, guests enter through a converted freight elevator, where Chef Noah Sandoval serves up a unique blend of French and Japanese cuisine. According to Michelin Guide, 'Chef Noah Sandoval and team execute a thoughtful tasting menu that blends French and Japanese elements. Begin with an aperitif and small bites in the impressive bar area, with the likes of a maitake mushroom and ricotta tartlet. Move to the dining room with a luscious canapé of foie gras mousse, then the meal begins in earnest. A composition of lightly cooked beets with sake lees, sea buckthorn, and puffed wild rice shows a delicate balance of flavors and textures, while a dish of skate wing and Dungeness crab with a toasted kombu butter is pure indulgence.' Chef Carlos Delgado at Causa Causa Interior Causa Restaurant Causa / Rey Lopez (One Michelin Star) Causa seats 20 people for a tasting menu that takes diners on a journey inspired by Peru. Michelin Guide says, "It all begins in Lima with coastal seafood, then progresses into the Andes and the Amazon. Chicha morada kombucha, made from purple corn, is a perfect partner for the Peruvian classic and namesake dish, causa, with its mashed potatoes hit with aji amarillo paste, then topped with cucumber, avocado and tuna tartare. Next, the humble bomba rice is given a luxe glow-up courtesy of uni, caviar, and a criolla sauce. Dessert doesn't disappoint, as in the passion fruit and mint gelato scoops piped with macambo mousse." Chef Karyn Tomlinson (c) and team at Myriel Restaurant Myriel Myriel is a unique, minimalist farm-to-table dining experience that highlights locally sourced ingredients. Swedish native Chef Tomlinson combines provincial French-inspired cuisine. There is a 12-course tasting menu option here, focusing on foraged ingredients and whole-animal butchery. Chef Salvador Alamilla at Amano Restaurant Radion Photography & Cinema Chef Alamilla was born and raised in Michoacan, Mexico. He was inspired by his mother's cooking and used to make the salsas and tortillas he enjoyed every day. With his mind set on opening a restaurant one day, he started as a dishwasher and worked his way up to Executive Chef within three years. He spent many months carefully crafting a menu for his place that takes into account his influences from SoCal, Michoacán, and Oaxacán-style Mexican food. Amano is a craft Mexican kitchen situated in a modern setting, where they source authentic Mexican ingredients, handcraft their tortillas, and provide meals that highlight locally sourced products. They also have an extensive, handcrafted cocktail menu featuring premium tequilas. Chef Vijay Kumar with Semma Restaurant Semma Interior Semma Restaurant Semma / Will Ellis (One Michelin star) Chef Vijay Kumar runs an authentic Indian dining experience. With the freedom to cook the food he knows best, he replicated his grandmother's recipes at Semma. Michelin Guide says, "This is authentic Indian cooking that doesn't pander to American expectations, and if some of the dishes are unfamiliar, lean on the staff who know their stuff and are eager to share. One bite in, and you'll quickly learn that this cooking is all heart. Dishes are spicy, but the heat is used as elegantly as it is liberally. Start with the mulaikattiya thaniyam, the chef's childhood snack that bursts with flavor. The gunpowder dosa, a classic rice and lentil crepe filled with potato masala, is on every table for a reason. Attu Kari sukkah is a falling-apart tender lamb in a dark brown curry redolent of warm spices." Chef Sky Haneul Kim of Gift Horse Eliesa Johnson Sky Haneul Kim was born and raised in Asan, South Korea, where her love for food and cooking was deeply rooted in family traditions and her country's vibrant culinary culture. Sky has worked in some of the finest restaurants in the country, blending the bold, dynamic flavors of her Korean heritage with fresh, locally sourced ingredients from her surroundings. At Gift Horse, she combines Korean flavors with locally sourced Rhode Island produce and seafood. At the famed valley winery, co-founded by wine-maker Maggie Harrison, Chef Timothy Wastell has launched new menus, both at Barrel Hall—the winery's main tasting room—and at Table in the Trees, a large concrete table that runs through the property's oak trees. There, guests can enjoy a tasting of five top-rated wines, along with a picnic in the woods. Michelin starred Chef Nando Chang from Itamae AO Restaurant Itamae AO (One Michelin Star) This 10-seat counter by Chef Nando Chang in Midtown looks to set a new standard for Nikkei cuisine in the region. Michelin Guide says, 'Those familiar with the chef's past work in the Design District will take heart in how classic Peruvian-Japanese flavors as well as signature dishes have been reworked, reimagined, and refined. Searing levels of acidity and spice figure prominently on this bold-tasting menu, often in the form of leche de tigre. From lobster bisque with sweet potato gnocchi to creamy rice with Hokkaido scallops and parmesan, the cooking possesses style and substance in spades. Sourcing is a priority, with whole fish flown in from Japan, later to be broken down and occasionally strung up in dry-aging fridges along the wall.' Chef Jake Howell of Peninsula Restaurant Eliesa Johnson Chef and owner Jake Howell hails from Idaho and once aspired to be an artist. Now, with many cooking awards to his name, he is purely focused on the kitchen, incorporating a menu of Spanish and Basque-inspired food cooked with French techniques within an intimate 35-seat restaurant featuring a 10-seat bar. Chef Yotaka Martin is a chef from Thailand who opened Lom Wong in Phoenix with her husband, Alex Martin Galdones Photography/JBF Yotaka grew up in the village of San Maket in Chiang Rai, Thailand, on a small family farm where they cultivated rice and raised animals. Her earliest memories are of being in the kitchen with her mother, aunts, uncles, and grandmother—cooking with what they harvested and passed down through generations. After moving to the United States, Yotaka set out to share the bold flavors of her childhood with dished loved in Thailand's rural villages and rarely found outside of the country. Chef Thomas Bille of Belly of the Beast Thuy An Photography Unafraid to mix and match the cuisines that inspire him, Chef Bille draws inspiration from global flavors while staying rooted in the traditions of Mexican cuisine. His menu is a mix of creativity, featuring dishes like Short Rib with Mole Negro, Potato Gnocchi with Scallops and Black Truffles, and Tandoori-spiced carrots. Born into a Mexican household as a first-generation American, Bille grew up with food at the center of his daily life. With a chef for a father and a mother known for her extraordinary home cooking, he discovered his passion early, often learning alongside them in the kitchen. After honing his craft at top restaurants in Los Angeles, Chef Bille relocated to Spring, Texas, where he turned a lifelong dream into reality by opening his restaurant. The Outstanding Chef award is presented to the chef who sets high culinary standards and serves as a positive example for other food professionals. The winner was Jungsik Yim from Jungsik Restaurant in New York. The Emerging Chef Award was presented to a chef who displays exceptional talent, character, and leadership ability and who is likely to make a significant impact in years to come. The award went to Phila Lorn from Mawn Restaurant in Philadelphia. The Outstanding Pastry Chef award honors exceptional skills, can be affiliated with any food business, and does not need a brick-and-mortar presence. The award went to Cat Cox with Country Bird Bakery in Tulsa, Oklahoma. best chefs in america
The Guardian
17-06-2025
- Politics
- The Guardian
Chef Jon Yao pays tribute to LA at James Beard awards: ‘This city is built by immigrants'
As Los Angeles chef Jon Yao received a James Beard award, one of the most significant in the culinary industry, he paid tribute to his city and the immigrants that are so central to its culture but are now living in fear amid the Trump administration's brutal immigration crackdown. 'Our restaurant – we tell stories, stories of immigrants, diaspora, endurance and perseverance,' Yao said on Monday. 'LA is a city built by the toils of immigrant communities and right now those same communities are being ripped apart.' Yao, the chef of the Michelin starred Taiwanese restaurant Kato in downtown Los Angeles, was the winner of the best chef: California category. He has previously been a nominee in other categories. Yao's win comes as Los Angeles is reeling from a conflict with the Trump administration, with aggressive immigration raids, mass protests against the targeting of immigrants, and the deployment of thousands of national guard members and marines to the area. The targeting of immigrants has created deep sense of fear in the region, one that Yao said hits at the heart of its identity. 'As the children of immigrants I'm sure many here can imagine a scenario where we couldn't be here to celebrate this all together,' he said as he collected the award. 'But we all deserve the freedom to pursue our dreams, to determine our own futures and to be treated with equal dignity and respect. Meanwhile a nightly curfew that was in place until Tuesday in a response to the upheaval has hit the restaurant industry hard. The curfew proved challenging for restaurants in downtown Los Angeles, including Kato, which reported significant declines in revenue. The restaurant saw a huge reduction in bookings and estimated $100,000 in losses because of the curfews, a co-owner told SF Gate. Yao acknowledged his city was going through a 'tough time' and said his win was bittersweet but that he was proud to be from Los Angeles and that it 'shines a lot on our team, our community'. He encouraged his colleagues in the industry to use their voice and platform. 'And everyone in this room tonight has the ability and voice to amplify that message through their own stories in their own communities. And I urge all of us to please use that voice and platform.'
Time Out
17-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Time Out
An L.A. chef just took home the James Beard Award for Best Chef: California
Jon Yao, the Taiwanese American chef behind Michelin-starred Kato in the Arts District, took home one of the top prizes at the James Beard Foundation Awards—the only nominee in Southern California to do so. The annual awards ceremony, which takes place in Chicago (almost) every year, recognizes excellence in restaurants, bars and food media, including books, broadcast media and journalism and is widely understood as the Oscars of the (American) food world. In 2016, Yao first opened Kato inside a West L.A. strip mall, and moving the restaurant to the Arts District in 2022. Immediately, the then-scrappy restaurant attracted the attention of critics for its uniquely Asian American spin on fine dining. Over the years, the self-taught chef has honed his craft and grown into one of the city's best restaurants, at least if you ask me. In 2022, Kato earned its first Michelin star; last year, the restaurant was named as 'one to watch' by the World's 50 Best Restaurants organization, which has yet to name any L.A. eatery to its prestigious annual list. 'The restaurant and the food we serve [at Kato], it's really a medium for storytelling. It's representative of a lot of immigrant stories,' Yao said in a backstage interview clip provided to media. 'There's a lot more restaurants like ours. It's not just ours. We're very proud to be part of that fabric.' Like last year, just one L.A. restaurant, bar or food media publication has taken home a national James Beard Award. In the spring, five other local restaurants, bars, bakeries and writers were nominated for various awards, including Long Beach's Gusto Bread for 'Outstanding Bakery' and Tobin Shea, bar director behind Redbird in Downtown L.A., for 'Outstanding Professional in Cocktail Service.' On Saturday, newly L.A. based writer and native Angeleno Jeff Gordinier also took home the MFK Fisher Distinguished Writing Award for 'The City that Rice Built,' a long-form piece featuring Charleston, South Carolina in Food & Wine. While Yao's restaurant is already a popular destination among wealthier, in-the-know local diners and tasting menu fans from far and wide, it's been a surprisingly easy reservation to book most days of the week, at least until now. If you haven't yet booked a table at Kato, now might be a good time to do that—before everyone else does.
Time Out
07-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Time Out
These are all of L.A.'s 2025 James Beard Awards finalists
The votes for 2025 are in: Six L.A. chefs, restaurants, bars, bakeries and writers have been named James Beard Awards finalists. Known widely as the 'Oscars of food,' the awarding body recognizes chefs, restauranteurs, bar directors, authors and journalists across the nation. While the restaurant and chef awards were first announced on April 2, the media awards weren't announced until today. Whittled down from 16 semifinalists, just three L.A. County chefs, restaurants and bakeries have advanced to the final round: Kato 's Jon Yao in 'Best Chef: California' category; Redbird 's Tobin Shea in 'Outstanding Professional in Cocktail Service'; and Gusto Bread in Long Beach—which I consider one of the city's best bakeries, and totally worth the drive—for 'Outstanding Bakery.' In the media category, three local journalists from the Los Angeles Times have picked up nominations. Critic Bill Addison received a nomination in 'Dining and Travel' for his guide to San Francisco and columnist Jenn Harris was also recognized for her work in the 'Craig Claiborne Distinguished Criticism' category. In 'Home Cooking,' senior editor Danielle Dorsey received a nomination for her recipe and reporting package on Black Thanksgiving traditions. Within Southern California, a few of our neighbors in Orange County also picked up nominations: Anaheim tiki bar Strong Water (Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages Program) and Daniel Castillo of San Juan Capistrano's Heritage Barbecue (Best Chef: California). The James Beard Foundation's annual awards 'recognize exceptional talent in the culinary and food media industries.' For 2025, the 35th edition, the foundation has added three new bar-focused categories. Last year, Lord Maynard Llera of Kuya Lord won 'Best Chef: California'
