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The Guardian
2 days ago
- The Guardian
Airport lounges cement the class system. And the food's not even that good
Summer, I've been told, is travel season. From about May to August, we're all meant to be flinging cash at airlines, hotels, overpriced restaurants with watered-down Aperol spritzes, and whatever new wonder drug is supposed to make our bodies moderately palatable for display at the beach. The social pressure to go somewhere (anywhere) during summer has only gotten more pervasive since social media began its clumsy, knifepoint home invasion into our brains. Our Instagram and TikTok accounts are just free advertising for the travel industry. 'Gosh, Spain looks nice. But maybe Mexico City is more chic these days?' It doesn't matter where you go, as long as you go. Travel seems more socially necessary than ever, even while the toll it takes on the environment gets heavier and the prospects of being allowed back home get grimmer. Travel is not healthy for the planet, and it's not healthy for your mental state. But, according to the New York Times, it is delicious. Airport lounges across the world are investing in better food, fancier accommodations and other perks like 'being left alone' and 'a functional shower'. You can have access to posh hideaways like the Delta One Lounge or the American Express Centurion Lounge for a price (either credit card fees or a long, expensive flight to a place you don't necessarily want to go). Awaiting you are opulent buffets with food from celebrity chefs such as José Andres and Kwame Onwuachi, and open bars with elaborate cocktails on offer. Most things in these lounges are free, but there are always extras for those who are truly irresponsible with their money. The Delta One Lounge at New York's John F Kennedy airport offers dollops of caviar for $85. At most of these places, you can get actual champagne, rather than the bathtub-flavored grape water they have on tap for losers like me. They should give you a free button to wear with every purchase that says 'I can afford the good stuff' – so everyone knows you have no student loan debt. All of this is meant to help airlines and credit-card companies maximize profits for their avaricious stockholders. They will charge an exorbitant amount of money for well-heeled passengers to, say, get their feet rubbed by a nude stranger, but if you can't afford such a luxury at the airport, you can get naked and rub a guy's feet for free. An airport is now like the condo building from JG Ballard's novel High-Rise, where our ossified class system manifests itself in a massive concrete structure that divides us based on income and accident of birth. The lower floors are occupied by tradespeople, the middle floors by artists and educated strivers. The top floor is reserved for the truly wealthy and the landed gentry, who sneer at the lower floors and expect fealty. The airport is similarly stratified. It's not just one lounge per airline. Now, the mind-bogglingly decadent Delta One Lounge sits near the decidedly middle-class Delta SkyClub, where the food consists not of caviar or succulent roast pork, but a melange of vaguely local fare (at Detroit's SkyClub, I recently turned my nose up at the wettest casserole I've ever seen, paired with a white dinner roll smothered in glistening butter, which I assume is a midwestern delicacy with a funny name like 'Gristlepassage'). The SkyClub is an attainable simulacrum of luxury, with free magazines and a hot chocolate bar. These middlebrow lounges are routinely overcrowded, because the barrier to entry is lower. In the Delta One Lounge, which I cannot afford, I assume the exclusivity means that more often than not, it's just you and a manservant named Longbottom whose only job is to carry your bags to and from the lavatory. The Delta One lounge is like a beacon of contentment (or an obnoxious tease, depending on how jet-lagged I am) when I walk past. I turn into Oliver Twist at the sight of a Delta One Lounge, begging for a crumb of lobster before my connection to Salt Lake City. I know envy in a way that makes me feel like a child deprived of screen time on a long drive to Yosemite national park. Surely this sort of class cold war can't sustain itself forever. In High-Rise, conditions in the building deteriorate – elevators stop working, trash chutes clog, and electricity fails regularly. As the physical structure falls into disarray, so does the citizen population. There are riots, assaults, murders and the eating of a dog. I could see this happening at Los Angeles international airport (LAX) if the Buffalo Wild Wings runs out of honey mustard – throngs of unwashed masses re-enacting January 6 on the unsuspecting patrons of the Virgin Atlantic Clubhouse. All for a spot of caviar. You might be wondering, though: is the food as good as the New York Times claims? Is it actually worth setting fire to a public place for a taste? In short, yes. Also, no. You see, the airport lounge is only as good as the food outside it is bad. It's a microcosm of how our class system perpetuates itself. As things grow more dire for the lower class, the middle class is driven to consume even more, as a signal to the world that they are, in fact, better. The deeper the hole gets beneath you, the more desperate you are to climb out. I am so eager to avoid having to swallow a limp hoagie at the LAX Jersey Mike's that I will spend money I shouldn't for the privilege of a slightly firmer sandwich in an airport lounge. Is the food demonstrably better at the Centurion Lounge at Heathrow than it is in the main concourse? No – it all probably gets squirted out at the same sludge factory. But it makes me feel special, because someone is being paid minimum wage to take my plate when I'm done eating. While half-asleep, dehydrated and full of flight-related anxiety, I can't even tell the difference between good and bad, right or wrong, fabulous or fetid. I am a yawning cavern of need, hoping to be filled up with whatever greasy carbs I can find. I had a perfectly adequate chicken tinga at the LAX SkyClub recently, which satisfied me until I woke up in a cold sweat over the Atlantic Ocean nine hours later. I likely would have responded to it more negatively if I had eaten it out of a paper cup next to a Hudson News while a dog in a gym bag silently farted a few feet away. Airlines, like every other big business, have figured out that the packaging is more important than the product. It's about the emotional response people have to what you're selling. The lords and ladies on the top floor of the metaphorical high-rise of our society have deigned to offer up a Disneyland re-creation of civilization, where we are treated with dignity rather than herded like lemmings over a cliff made of rubbery chicken. As was once said: 'Let them eat cake (as long as they have a Chase Sapphire Rewards card).'
The Guardian
2 days ago
- The Guardian
Airport lounges cement the class system. And the food's not even that good
Summer, I've been told, is travel season. From about May to August, we're all meant to be flinging cash at airlines, hotels, overpriced restaurants with watered-down Aperol spritzes, and whatever new wonder drug is supposed to make our bodies moderately palatable for display at the beach. The social pressure to go somewhere (anywhere) during summer has only gotten more pervasive since social media began its clumsy, knifepoint home invasion into our brains. Our Instagram and TikTok accounts are just free advertising for the travel industry. 'Gosh, Spain looks nice. But maybe Mexico City is more chic these days?' It doesn't matter where you go, as long as you go. Travel seems more socially necessary than ever, even while the toll it takes on the environment gets heavier and the prospects of being allowed back home get grimmer. Travel is not healthy for the planet, and it's not healthy for your mental state. But, according to the New York Times, it is delicious. Airport lounges across the world are investing in better food, fancier accommodations and other perks like 'being left alone' and 'a functional shower'. You can have access to posh hideaways like the Delta One Lounge or the American Express Centurion Lounge for a price (either credit card fees or a long, expensive flight to a place you don't necessarily want to go). Awaiting you are opulent buffets with food from celebrity chefs such as José Andres and Kwame Onwuachi, and open bars with elaborate cocktails on offer. Most things in these lounges are free, but there are always extras for those who are truly irresponsible with their money. The Delta One Lounge at New York's John F Kennedy airport offers dollops of caviar for $85. At most of these places, you can get actual champagne, rather than the bathtub-flavored grape water they have on tap for losers like me. They should give you a free button to wear with every purchase that says 'I can afford the good stuff' – so everyone knows you have no student loan debt. All of this is meant to help airlines and credit-card companies maximize profits for their avaricious stockholders. They will charge an exorbitant amount of money for well-heeled passengers to, say, get their feet rubbed by a nude stranger, but if you can't afford such a luxury at the airport, you can get naked and rub a guy's feet for free. An airport is now like the condo building from JG Ballard's novel High-Rise, where our ossified class system manifests itself in a massive concrete structure that divides us based on income and accident of birth. The lower floors are occupied by tradespeople, the middle floors by artists and educated strivers. The top floor is reserved for the truly wealthy and the landed gentry, who sneer at the lower floors and expect fealty. The airport is similarly stratified. It's not just one lounge per airline. Now, the mind-bogglingly decadent Delta One Lounge sits near the decidedly middle-class Delta SkyClub, where the food consists not of caviar or succulent roast pork, but a melange of vaguely local fare (at Detroit's SkyClub, I recently turned my nose up at the wettest casserole I've ever seen, paired with a white dinner roll smothered in glistening butter, which I assume is a midwestern delicacy with a funny name like 'Gristlepassage'). The SkyClub is an attainable simulacrum of luxury, with free magazines and a hot chocolate bar. These middlebrow lounges are routinely overcrowded, because the barrier to entry is lower. In the Delta One Lounge, which I cannot afford, I assume the exclusivity means that more often than not, it's just you and a manservant named Longbottom whose only job is to carry your bags to and from the lavatory. The Delta One lounge is like a beacon of contentment (or an obnoxious tease, depending on how jet-lagged I am) when I walk past. I turn into Oliver Twist at the sight of a Delta One Lounge, begging for a crumb of lobster before my connection to Salt Lake City. I know envy in a way that makes me feel like a child deprived of screen time on a long drive to Yosemite national park. Surely this sort of class cold war can't sustain itself forever. In High-Rise, conditions in the building deteriorate – elevators stop working, trash chutes clog, and electricity fails regularly. As the physical structure falls into disarray, so does the citizen population. There are riots, assaults, murders and the eating of a dog. I could see this happening at Los Angeles international airport (LAX) if the Buffalo Wild Wings runs out of honey mustard – throngs of unwashed masses re-enacting January 6 on the unsuspecting patrons of the Virgin Atlantic Clubhouse. All for a spot of caviar. You might be wondering, though: is the food as good as the New York Times claims? Is it actually worth setting fire to a public place for a taste? In short, yes. Also, no. You see, the airport lounge is only as good as the food outside it is bad. It's a microcosm of how our class system perpetuates itself. As things grow more dire for the lower class, the middle class is driven to consume even more, as a signal to the world that they are, in fact, better. The deeper the hole gets beneath you, the more desperate you are to climb out. I am so eager to avoid having to swallow a limp hoagie at the LAX Jersey Mike's that I will spend money I shouldn't for the privilege of a slightly firmer sandwich in an airport lounge. Is the food demonstrably better at the Centurion Lounge at Heathrow than it is in the main concourse? No – it all probably gets squirted out at the same sludge factory. But it makes me feel special, because someone is being paid minimum wage to take my plate when I'm done eating. While half-asleep, dehydrated and full of flight-related anxiety, I can't even tell the difference between good and bad, right or wrong, fabulous or fetid. I am a yawning cavern of need, hoping to be filled up with whatever greasy carbs I can find. I had a perfectly adequate chicken tinga at the LAX SkyClub recently, which satisfied me until I woke up in a cold sweat over the Atlantic Ocean nine hours later. I likely would have responded to it more negatively if I had eaten it out of a paper cup next to a Hudson News while a dog in a gym bag silently farted a few feet away. Airlines, like every other big business, have figured out that the packaging is more important than the product. It's about the emotional response people have to what you're selling. The lords and ladies on the top floor of the metaphorical high-rise of our society have deigned to offer up a Disneyland re-creation of civilization, where we are treated with dignity rather than herded like lemmings over a cliff made of rubbery chicken. As was once said: 'Let them eat cake (as long as they have a Chase Sapphire Rewards card).'
Straits Times
3 days ago
- Business
- Straits Times
For the privileged few, airport food hits a new height of luxury
UNITED STATES – Few places feel as engineered to remind you of your social standing as the airport. Each of its protocols, from check-in to security to boarding, imposes a hierarchy. Are you Executive Platinum? Premier ? The peak of that pecking order has long been the airport lounge, which allows elite passengers a cushioned escape from the tumult of the terminal. Now, even as airline stocks have tumbled and ticket demand slows, American airlines and credit card companies are reaching for a higher level of luxury and exclusivity – particularly when it comes to food. At the one-year-old Delta One Lounge at John F. Kennedy International Airport, it is common to hear an employee asking passengers: 'Would you like an ounce of caviar before your flight?' At the lounge, which includes a full-service brasserie with leather banquettes and gold finishes, the menu of complimentary offerings features sirloin steak with red wine jus and salmon sashimi with blood orange ponzu. The caviar will run you an extra US$85 (S$109) or 8,500 miles. Amble around the rest of the 40,000 sq ft space, and you might spy Japanese cheesecakes and earl grey lemon shortbread cookie s behind a glass pastry case ; or a spa-goer nursing a pineapple, lemon and butterfly pea flower juice after a massage. You might even catch a bartender pouring a nip of rare Japanese whiskey at the gold-lined Art Deco bar. To enter, you will need to flash a business class ticket for a long-haul flight on Delta or a partner airline . Top stories Swipe. Select. Stay informed. Singapore Tanjong Katong sinkhole backfilled; road to be repaved after LTA tests Singapore Tanjong Katong Road sinkhole did not happen overnight: Experts Singapore Authorities say access to Changi intertidal areas unaffected by reclamation, in response to petition Singapore New Mandai North Crematorium, ash-scattering garden to open on Aug 15 Singapore Not feasible for S'pore to avoid net‑zero; all options to cut energy emissions on table: Tan See Leng Singapore With regional interest in nuclear energy rising, S'pore must build capabilities too: Tan See Leng World US and EU clinch deal with broad 15% tariffs on EU goods to avert trade war Asia Displaced villagers at Thai-Cambodian border hope to go home as leaders set to meet for talks Airport lounges were once pit stops where business travellers could grab a paper cup of coffee and a handful of wasabi peas before a flight. Now, they dangle wood-fired pizza ovens, seafood towers, sushi bars and espresso martinis on tap. Lounges operated by American Express are introducing menus by award-winning chefs Kwame Onwuachi, Mashama Bailey, Michael Solomonov and Sarah Grueneberg. A seafood tower order in the Chase Sapphire Lounge at Laguardia Airport in East Elmhurst, New York. PHOTO: AMIR HAMJA/NYTIMES The escalating opulence of lounge food – and the mediocrity of the other offerings in airports – is a sign of just how wide the American wealth gap has grown, said sociologist Cecilia L. Ridgeway, who is a professor emeritus of social sciences at Stanford University. Airline trave l u sed to be a symbol of luxury. As more people fly, and as tickets become cheaper , she said, the wealthy still want to feel distinguished from th e public in visible ways. 'We need more signs and symbols that you are doing okay, that people are seeing it, that you are moving up.' A quick tour of seven of the US' new airport lounges showed that the quality of food is similar to what you would find at a wedding buffet – ranging from lacklustre to surprisingly satisfying . A salad of radicchio and roasted peaches at the United Polaris Lounge in Houston was cloying, while the French toast at the American Express Centurion Lounge at LaGuardia Airport had a crisp exterior and subtle sweetness that explain why it has a following. But taste may matter less than the fact that the food is free, fancy and makes the lounge guest feel important. The sit-down restaurant at American Airlines' Chelsea Lounge at Kennedy Airport feels like a lavish library – hushed, with lots of gold and glass. 'We like exclusivity,' said Ms Laura Parkey, a luxury real estate adviser from Florida, who was eating there before flying in business class to Switzerland for a river cruise. She sipped Moet & Chandon Champagne and eyed the pommes Anna with caviar at the next table. Compared with the terminal outside, she said, 'the food is better, and you don't have to deal with the masses'. These luxe touches are nothing new for international airlines such as Emirates and Cathay Pacific, which for years have accessorised their lounges with dim sum, cocktail pairings and cigar bars. Their American counterparts have only recently approached that calibre. But today, adding a full-service restaurant has become a baseline part of the expectation for lounges in the US, said Mr Aaron McMillan , managing director of hospitality programmes for United Airlines. It was one of the first American carriers to offer an in-lounge restaurant. Competition is intensifying as credit card companies enter the lounge game, unburdened by the logistical challenges and costs of running an airline, and seeking to attract frequent travellers as cardholders. The Chase Sapphire Lounge at LaGuardia Airport – accessible to those who have the Chase Sapphire Reserve card (with an annual fee of US$795), the J.P. Morgan Reserve card (US$795) or the Ritz-Carlton Credit Card (US$450) – looks like a chic hotel lobby. Its centrepiece is a circular bar with purple velvet chairs. The cocktail menu comes from the popular New York bar Apotheke, and the baristas can make you a sea salt and oat milk latte. Each table has QR codes for guests to order gnocchi with zucchini and mint, or marinated beets with whipped feta – both created by Fairfax, an all-day cafe in Manhattan. The Capital One Landing at Ronald Reagan National Airport in Washington has a full-service tapas bar created by chef Jose Andres. Crisp jamon croquetas and gambas al ajillo with a pleasant kick are made to order. Negronis and espresso martinis are available on tap. While most airport food comes from the same roster of approved suppliers, Andres gets his Iberian ham and picos from the purveyors who supply his restaurants. Each of these vendors had to be approved by airport security, with background checks and X-ray scans. The 1,200 sq ft kitchen was custom-built to Andres' specifications. One of his company's culinary directors works at the lounge full time. Ms Charisse Grey, the company's senior director of research and development, said: 'If there was a budget, I was not aware of it.' The lavish menus in these lounges speak to a new class of affluent travellers, said Mr Ben Schlappig, founder of the travel website One Mile At A Time. 'It used to be that lounges were thought of as stuffy and for business travellers,' he said. Today, the clientele 'skews much younger, and the increased focus on food and drink, and partnering with cool brands is part of that'. A Capital One spokesperson contended that the company's lounges were more approachable for everyday travellers, who do not need a first-class ticket to experience the luxury amenities – just a Capital One Venture X card, which costs US$395 a year. But at lounges with that easier accessibility, customers often wait in long lines, or are denied entry because the spaces get overcrowded. This has prompted some credit card companies to tighten lounge access, just as airlines have. Capital One, which allows cardholders to bring in a certain number of guests without charge, will charge for most additional visitors starting 2026 . Mr Mitch Radakovich, a data scientist from Cincinnati who was spending his layover en route to Copenhagen at the Capital One Lounge at Kennedy Airport, said it felt almost too good to be true to enjoy such amenities – cheesemongers who will customise a charcuterie board and freshly baked bagels from Ess-a-bagel – with just a US$395-a-year credit card. 'I'm sure the price will go up,' he said. 'It's an interesting maths problem: exclusivity versus luxury.' With all the money being poured into elite lounges, he wondered what airlines and airports were doing for the average traveller, who has to contend with shrinking onboard amenities, long security lines and thronged terminals. 'I used to fly Cincinnati to Atlanta, and now soda isn't even an option – it's coffee or water,' he said. 'The overall quality has decreased for the public.' NYTIMES
Forbes
17-07-2025
- Business
- Forbes
Amex Upgrades Centurion Lounges With Chef-Curated Menus And New Sidecar Concept
Editorial Note: We earn a commission from partner links on Forbes Advisor. Commissions do not affect our editors' opinions or evaluations. American Express is giving its Centurion Lounges a premium refresh with two updates: a revamped dining program called The Culinary Collective and a new fast-track lounge concept, Sidecar by The Centurion Lounge, in Las Vegas Starting July 29, Amex will roll out The Culinary Collective across all 15 U.S. Centurion Lounges. The program features seasonal, rotating menus curated by top-tier James Beard Award–winning chefs, including Kwame Onwuachi, Mashama Bailey, Mike Solomonov and Sarah Grueneberg, paired with cocktails crafted by Harrison Ginsberg, bar director at NYC's Overstory. Going to the airport with lounge access already feels like a travel hack, but now imagine stepping into a space where renowned chefs and a speakeasy-inspired space is tucked away inside the terminal. It's not just a lounge anymore; it's an elevated, pre-flight experience that blurs the line between travel and luxury. The Culinary Collective program features signature dishes from acclaimed chefs and aims to elevate the food experience far beyond typical lounge fare, including: Onwuachi's suya short ribs Bailey's paprika chicken Solomonov's pomegranate–glazed salmon Grueneberg's lemony orzo with artichokes and dill The offering aims to deliver both high-end flavor and consistent quality across lounges. To address overcrowding and meet the needs of travelers with shorter layovers, Amex is launching Sidecar by The Centurion Lounge—a streamlined, speakeasy-style concept debuting at Harry Reid International Airport (LAS) in 2026. Designed for speed : Access is restricted to cardholders within 90 minutes of scheduled departure, optimizing quick pre-flight refreshments. : Access is restricted to cardholders within 90 minutes of scheduled departure, optimizing quick pre-flight refreshments. Focus on quality over amenities: Sidecar offers table service with gourmet small plates and cocktails from The Culinary Collective. Unlike the full Centurion Lounges, amenities are limited, though restrooms and fast Wi‑Fi are included. Hendley also says 'many of our visitors spend less than an hour in our lounges, and we've created Sidecar specifically for them.' The Centurion lounges can be used by members who hold these cards: For Delta SkyMiles Reserve cardholders, the Centurion Lounge is only accessible in the U.S., Hong Kong, and London, and access is also limited to those flying on same-day Delta flights. American Express's two-pronged update thoughtfully balances luxury and efficiency. Frequent flyers, food lovers, and time-conscious travelers alike can look forward to a revitalized Centurion experience offering more variety and flexibility. While Sidecar's concept remains untested, its targeted and stylish approach may be a smart fix for long-standing lounge overcrowding. To view rates and fees for The Platinum Card® from American Express please visit this view rates and fees for The Business Platinum Card® from American Express please visit this page. To view rates and fees for Delta SkyMiles® Reserve American Express Card please visit this page. To view rates and fees for Delta SkyMiles® Reserve Business American Express Card please visit this page. *The information for the following card(s) has been collected independently by Forbes Advisor: Centurion® Card from American Express . The card details on this page have not been reviewed or provided by the card issuer.
Yahoo
16-07-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
Dine With Mashama Bailey, Kwame Onwuachi, and More Star Chefs in One Airport Lounge
American Express is bringing together hospitality professionals from some of the country's most acclaimed restaurants and bars to enhance the menus at its 15 Centurion Lounges in U.S. airports, from Atlanta to Washington, D.C. Platinum card members will now have access to seasonally changing menu items from 2019 F&W Best New Chef Kwame Onwuachi of Tatiana in New York City; Mashama Bailey of The Grey in Savannah, Georgia; Michael Solomonov of Zahav in Philadelphia; and Sarah Grueneberg of Monteverde Restaurant & Pastificio in Chicago – all Resy chefs whose restaurants can be booked on the platform. But travelers won't need bookings in four cities; the chefs will each contribute dishes inspired by their restaurants, such as Onwuachi's Suya Short Ribs, Bailey's Paprika Chicken, Solomonov's Pomegranate Glazed Salmon with Tabbouleh, and Grueneberg's Lemony Orzo with Artichokes and Dill. 'With help from our Resy chef partners, we've brought together a group of some of the most exciting culinary minds in America to create incredible menus, available all in one place for the first time ever,' said Audrey Hendley, president of American Express Travel. Dubbed The Culinary Collective by The Centurion Lounge, the group of chefs' dishes will be offered alongside a menu of local specialties, from each airport's location, and paired with cocktails from Harrison Ginsberg, the bar director at New York City's internationally acclaimed Overstory. 'Traveling helps form the way I think of cocktails – whether it's discovering cool ingredients or having conversations with locals that influence a drink,' he said. 'The cocktails I'm creating each have an element of travel inspiration, and I'm looking forward to travelers exploring the menu.' Related: This Swanky New Airport Lounge Serves Lychee Martinis on an Open-Air Terrace The announcement comes with AMEX's debut of a new concept for the many travelers who spend less than an hour in airport lounges. Designed like a private club, Sidecar by The Centurion Lounge is opening at Las Vegas' Harry Reid International Airport (LAS) with quicker bites and drinks for Platinum card members departing in 90 minutes or less. The Culinary Collective dishes will be available on this menu, too. 'Each of the chefs, and American Express, share the same ethos. We care about food, innovation, and diverse flavors – key elements of this collaboration,' said Solomonov. All menu items will vary by lounge, so frequent fliers can continue to be surprised, starting on July 29. Read the original article on Food & Wine
