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Cosmopolitan
19-07-2025
- Business
- Cosmopolitan
Ami Colé is closing: It's time to wake up before another Black-owned beauty brand disappears
I'm exhausted. Tired in a bone-deep, soul-sapped, can't-believe-we're-here-again kind of way. I almost didn't write this letter because it feels like déjà vu wrapped in heartbreak. The news that Ami Colé, one of the most beloved Black-owned beauty brands, is shuttering after a wildly successful four-year run is as devastating as it is familiar. We know the stats. They're damning. Less than 0.1 percent of venture capital funding goes to Black women entrepreneurs. That's not just a missed opportunity — it's an intentional failure of imagination, investment, and equity. I've dedicated my career to celebrating, uplifting, and advocating for diversity and inclusion in beauty. And yet, most days, it feels like I'm preaching to the choir or screaming into the void. I've used every platform I've been blessed to hold — my voice, my bylines, my seat at the proverbial (and sometimes literal) table — to spotlight the undeniable brilliance of Black-owned brands. And still, I watch them disappear one by one. So now, I'm talking to you: the billion-dollar conglomerates and investors with deep pockets. The legacy houses and corporate giants with the power and purse strings to change the narrative. Yes, I'm talking to you, L'Oréal Groupe, Estée Lauder Companies Inc., Unilever Global, Proctor & Gamble, Coty Inc., Shiseido Company, e.l.f. Beauty Inc., and all the rest. You with the billion-dollar budgets who know how to write the checks that shift culture and make us all feel oh-so-beautiful. You who made room for rhode, Drunk Elephant, OUAI, and Hourglass Cosmetics, to name a few (and no shade — those were solid plays). So, let's not pretend the bank accounts are suddenly empty when it comes to funding Black-owned brilliance. There is money. There is infrastructure. There is a proven formula. So, where's the disconnect when it comes to investing in brands that speak deeply, authentically, and powerfully to communities of colour? Ami Colé did that—and then some. This wasn't an underdog story waiting to be fixed. This was a brand that had already done the damn thing. Over $3 million raised. On shelves in 600+ Sephora stores. Media acclaim. Award-winning products. Loved by the likes of Oprah and Martha Stewart. A founder (Diarrha N'Diaye-Mbaye) who formally worked at L'Oreal and in product development at Glossier. Viral moments. Cult-status glosses. A community that showed up, showed out, and bought in. The consumers did their part. So, why wasn't that enough? I'm devastated not just for the brand but for what this signals to Black founders everywhere: That even when you build something with intention, revenue, and community, survival is not guaranteed, at least not without deep-pocketed allies who understand both the moral imperative and the market opportunity in protecting this space. Let me say this louder: Black-owned beauty brands aren't just for Black folks. And even when melanin-rich skin or textured hair is centred, there is still undeniable magic. The potential to scale is not a liability—it's an untapped goldmine. I'm not just calling for charitable donations or feel-good optics. I'm calling for strategic investments. And maybe even for seats on your boards for people like me—those of us who've built careers testing your products (and all your competitors), telling your stories, and turning casual browsers into lifelong consumers. We may not have actual MBAs, but we have MBAs in beauty. We are your brand whisperers, your trend forecasters, your cultural compasses. The question is, will you listen? I fully understand there are countless layers and valid nuances that make my DEI dreams harder than ever to realise. But right now, I'm writing to you as a devoted beauty storyteller whose professional purpose — and passion — is to help move this industry in the right direction. So, I will continue to dream of a world where I have the capital to be the one writing ginormous checks. But since I don't (yet), I will continue to use my voice to push those who do. Because Black and brown beauty deserves more than a moment. It deserves momentum— real and everlasting. This isn't about calling you out — I'm lovingly calling you in. Let this not be another eulogy. Let this be a turning point. With urgency, hope, and light, Julee Wilson Julee Wilson is Beauty Editor at Large at Cosmopolitan. Previously, Julee was Beauty Director at Cosmo and Global Beauty Director at Essence and has held various editorial positions at Huffington Post and Real Simple. She counts herself lucky AF that she gets to play with beauty products for a living and tell dope stories. And if you're as obsessed with beauty as she is, make sure to follow her on Instagram for plenty of product recs, natural hair inspo, skincare testing, and Black girl magic shenanigans.
Cosmopolitan
18-07-2025
- Business
- Cosmopolitan
An Open Letter to the Beauty Industry: Don't Let Another Black-Owned Brand Disappear
Dear Beauty Industry, I'm exhausted. Tired in a bone-deep, soul-sapped, can't-believe-we're-here-again kind of way. I almost didn't write this letter because it feels like déjà vu wrapped in heartbreak. The news that Ami Colé, one of the most beloved Black-owned beauty brands, is shuttering after a wildly successful four-year run is as devastating as it is familiar. We know the stats. They're damning. Less than 0.1 percent of venture capital funding goes to Black women entrepreneurs. That's not just a missed opportunity—it's an intentional failure of imagination, investment, and equity. I've dedicated my career to celebrating, uplifting, and advocating for diversity and inclusion in beauty. And yet, most days, it feels like I'm preaching to the choir or screaming into the void. I've used every platform I've been blessed to hold—my voice, my bylines, my seat at the proverbial (and sometimes literal) table—to spotlight the undeniable brilliance of Black-owned brands. And still, I watch them disappear one by one. So now, I'm talking to you: the billion-dollar conglomerates and investors with deep pockets. The legacy houses and corporate giants with the power and purse strings to change the narrative. Yes, I'm talking to you, L'Oréal Groupe, Estée Lauder Companies Inc., Unilever Global, Proctor & Gamble, City Inc., Shiseido Company, e.l.f. Beauty Inc., and all the rest. You with the billion-dollar budgets who know how to write the checks that shift culture and make us all feel oh-so-beautiful. You who made room for Rhode, Drunk Elephant, OUAI, and Hourglass Cosmetics, to name a few (and no shade—those were solid plays). So, let's not pretend the bank accounts are suddenly empty when it comes to funding Black-owned brilliance. There is money. There is infrastructure. There is a proven formula. So, where's the disconnect when it comes to investing in brands that speak deeply, authentically, and powerfully to communities of color? Ami Colé did that—and then some. This wasn't an underdog story waiting to be fixed. This was a brand that had already done the damn thing. Over $3 million raised. On shelves in 600+ Sephora stores. Media acclaim. Award-winning products. Loved by the likes of Oprah and Martha Stewart. A founder (Diarrha N'Diaye-Mbaye) who formally worked at L'Oreal and in product development at Glossier. Viral moments. Cult-status glosses. A community that showed up, showed out, and bought in. The consumers did their part. So, why wasn't that enough? I'm devastated not just for the brand but for what this signals to Black founders everywhere: That even when you build something with intention, revenue, and community, survival is not guaranteed, at least not without deep-pocketed allies who understand both the moral imperative and the market opportunity in protecting this space. Let me say this louder: Black-owned beauty brands aren't just for Black folks. And even when melanin-rich skin or textured hair is centered, there is still undeniable magic. The potential to scale is not a liability—it's an untapped goldmine. I'm not just calling for charitable donations or feel-good optics. I'm calling for strategic investments. And maybe even for seats on your boards for people like me—those of us who've built careers testing your products (and all your competitors), telling your stories, and turning casual browsers into lifelong consumers. We may not have actual MBAs, but we have MBAs in beauty. We are your brand whisperers, your trend forecasters, your cultural compasses. The question is, will you listen? I fully understand there are countless layers and valid nuances that make my DEI dreams harder than ever to realize. But right now, I'm writing to you as a devoted beauty storyteller whose professional purpose—and passion—is to help move this industry in the right direction. So, I will continue to dream of a world where I have the capital to be the one writing ginormous checks. But since I don't (yet), I will continue to use my voice to push those who do. Because Black and brown beauty deserves more than a moment. It deserves momentum—real and everlasting. This isn't about calling you out—I'm lovingly calling you in. Let this not be another eulogy. Let this be a turning point. With urgency, hope, and light, Julee Wilson Julee Wilson is Beauty Editor at Large at Cosmopolitan. Previously, Julee was Beauty Director at Cosmo and Global Beauty Director at Essence and has held various editorial positions at Huffington Post and Real Simple. She counts herself lucky AF that she gets to play with beauty products for a living and tell dope stories. And if you're as obsessed with beauty as she is, make sure to follow her on Instagram for plenty of product recs, natural hair inspo, skincare testing, and Black girl magic shenanigans.
Business of Fashion
16-06-2025
- Business
- Business of Fashion
Inside Sephora's Community Lunch at The Business of Beauty Global Forum
To honour community and connection at the third edition of The Business of Beauty Global Forum, Carolyn Bojanowski, executive vice president of merchandising at Sephora US, gathered an intimate roster of leaders, thinkers and changemakers from across the beauty and wellness sectors for a community lunch between sessions at the forum. 'I've worked at Sephora for more than 20 years and the global community is a critical part of what keeps me so energised and coming back for more,' said Bojanowski in her opening remarks. 'At Sephora, we're excited to keep tracking what you all create and to continue building this industry together.' In attendance were guests of the forum, including executives and founders from companies including L'Oréal Groupe, Pattern Beauty, Dermalogica, Citi, E.l.f. Beauty, Glossier, Olaplex, Tatcha and Isamaya Beauty. Conversations at the lunch spanned some of the industry's most pressing market shifts, with emphasis on creating true value in the eyes of discerning consumers. Indeed, The State of Fashion: Beauty report, now in its second volume, found that seventy-five percent of executives surveyed for the report expect consumer scrutiny on perceived value to be the biggest theme shaping the industry. For many in the room, leveraging a brand's community and core purpose is a critical value driver. 'Beauty is inherently about community, and celebrating the founders, business leaders and creators who build and foster that is a powerful thing,' said Sephora's global chief merchandising officer, Priya Venkatesh. 'In settings like this, where attendees come in with authenticity, there is an abundance of opportunity to learn from each other and discuss big challenges we all face, such as reducing carbon footprints and supply chain challenges, but also learning from each other's success stories.' As the conversation continued over lunch, Venkatesh underscored the importance of open dialogue. 'These [conversations] are pivotal in making the beauty industry more inclusive — and it has come a long way. These types of discussions have led to improved shade ranges, skin care treatments that address issues faced by those with deeper skin tones, as well as developing and offering a wider assortment of products for customers with textured hair. For aspiring founders, being able to hear and learn from the hurdles and highlights others have experienced is invaluable.' A key takeaway was that — regardless of size and scope — strategic reinvention and reassessment are critical to the continued development of the beauty space more broadly. 'We are enthusiastic to hear from the wider beauty community and learn where we can improve in areas like sustainability, inclusion or how we can tell better stories in new media formats,' concluded Venkatesh. 'The amazing thing about the beauty industry is there is always somewhere new to go.' The Business of Fashion Presents the Business of Beauty Global Forum 2025 - Day 2 From left to right: Carolyn Bojanowski, executive vice president of merchandising at Sephora US; Amy Liu, founder & CEO of Tower 28; and Nikki DeRoest, co-founder and CEO of Ciele Cosmetics. (Getty Images for The Business of Fashion) The Business of Fashion Presents the Business of Beauty Global Forum 2025 - Day 2 From left to right: Amy Lore, associate director of brand partnerships at The Business of Fashion; Timicka Anderson, global industry head of consumer and retail commercial banking at Citi; and Kirsten Johnson, head of prestige skincare at TikTok Shop. (Getty Images for The Business of Fashion) The Business of Fashion Presents the Business of Beauty Global Forum 2025 - Day 2 Ali Goldstein, president of US mergers and acquisitions at L'Oréal Groupe, and Mikayla Nogueira, co-founder of Point of View Beauty. (Getty Images for The Business of Fashion) The Business of Fashion Presents the Business of Beauty Global Forum 2025 - Day 2 Chitra Balireddi, CEO of Nécessaire and Carolyn Bojanowski, executive vice president of merchandising at Sephora US. (Getty Images for The Business of Fashion) The Business of Fashion Presents the Business of Beauty Global Forum 2025 - Day 2 From left to right: Mary Yee, CEO of Tatcha; Nicole Frusci, global CMO of Tatcha; Ryan Scott, CEO of Dieux; and Stella Kim, global director of merchandising at Sephora. (Getty Images for The Business of Fashion) The Business of Fashion Presents the Business of Beauty Global Forum 2025 - Day 2 Christiane Pendarvis, co-CEO of Pattern Beauty, and Nicolas Geiger, executive board member of L'Occitane Group. (Getty Images for The Business of Fashion) This is a sponsored feature paid for by Sephora as part of a BoF partnership.
Business of Fashion
12-06-2025
- Business
- Business of Fashion
The Business of Beauty Global Forum 2025 Concludes with Farewell Celebration
NAPA VALLEY, California — After three days of transformative conversations and industry insights, the third edition of The Business of Beauty's Global Beauty Forum concluded with a farewell dinner. Hosted in partnership with L'Oréal Groupe, the evening celebrated The Business of Beauty Global Awards winners who were carefully selected by an esteemed jury including Imran Amed, BoF's founder and CEO, and Ali Goldstein, L'Oréal USA's president of mergers and acquisitions. Goldstein presented the Creative Execution Award in the Breakthrough Track to premium skincare label Akt London, founded by Ed Currie and Andy Coxon from the United Kingdom. The dinner served as both a celebration of these entrepreneurs' current achievements and a launch pad for the innovations that will chart beauty's next chapter, while providing an opportunity for guests to reflect together on learnings gleaned at the forum. Imran Amed, founder and CEO of The Business of Fashion, and Hailey Bieber, founder and creative director of Rhode. (Getty Images for The Business of Fashion) Those in attendance — from beauty industry leaders to retail executives and entrepreneurs — first gathered outside the Stanly Ranch Glasshouse, with its panoramic views overlooking the Napa Valley vineyards during golden hour. As guests took their seats for dinner, Amed and Goldstein delivered a toast reflecting on the remarkable achievements recognised by The Business of Beauty Global Awards. 'It has been so inspiring to hear our finalists' stories and learn about the challenges you have faced and the change you want to drive in the industry,' said Amed in his remarks. 'We are grateful to do these events alongside our partners, including L'Oréal, and over the past few days, we have worked together as part of the jury to deliberate on our winners.' Goldstein reinforced the collaborative spirit, adding: 'The spirit of L'Oréal is about identifying and supporting the beauty industry around the world, highlighting fantastic innovation, recognising great founders and great brands. This forum really brings that to light and we couldn't have been more excited to have been a part of it.' The award winners, selected from over 100 applicants from 17 countries and five continents, represented a diverse range of innovative companies and founders. The honorees were celebrated alongside an audience that included Hailey Bieber, Tracee Ellis Ross, Tarang Amin, Marc Terlet, Yasmin Sewell and Sydney Towle. Justine Skye, musical artist, and Joe Holder, founder of the Ocho System and wellness columnist at GQ. (Getty Images for The Business of Fashion) Hailey Bieber, founder and creative director of Rhode, and Tendai Moyo, co-founder and CEO of Ruka. (Getty Images for The Business of Fashion) From left to right: Robin Tsai, general partner at VMG Partners; Isamaya Ffrench, makeup artist and founder and creative director of Isamaya Beauty; Ali Goldstein, president of US mergers and acquisitions at L'Oréal Groupe; Priya Rao, executive editor at The Business of Fashion; Imran Amed, founder and CEO of The Business of Fashion; Marianna Hewitt, co-founder of Summer Fridays; and Carolyn Bojanowski, executive vice president of merchandising at Sephora. (Getty Images for The Business of Fashion) Melissa Butler, founder of The Lip Bar, and Christopher Skinner, chief revenue officer at Front Row. (Getty Images for The Business of Fashion) From left to right: Susan Yara, founder of Naturium; Charlotte Palermino, chief brand officer at Dieux; and Marianna Hewitt, co-founder of Summer Fridays. (Getty Images for The Business of Fashion ) Winners of The Business of Beauty Global Awards 2025, from left to right: Molly Sims, founder of YSE Beauty; Haisam Mohammed, founder of Unifrom; Kate Neal and Remi Paringaux, co-founders of Commune; Susanne Manasi, founder of Manasi 7; Tendai Moyo, co-founder and CEO of Ruka; and Andy Coxon and Ed Currie, co-founders of AKT London. (Getty Images for The Business of Fashion) Robin Tsai, general partner at VMG Partners, and Henry Davis, CEO of Sakara Life. (Getty Images for The Business of Fashion) Pilkyung Yoon Choi, CMO of Laneige, and Stella Kim, global director of merchandising at Sephora. (Getty Images for The Business of Fashion) This is a sponsored feature paid for by L'Oréal Groupe as part of a BoF partnership.
Business Recorder
15-05-2025
- Business
- Business Recorder
Rehan appointed L'Oréal Pakistan CEO
KARACHI: L'Oréal Groupe, a global leader in beauty and innovation, has announced the appointment of Rehan Saeed as the new Chief Executive Officer (CEO) and Executive General Manager of L'Oréal Pakistan. According to Company announcement, with effect from May 2025, Rehan succeeds Qawi Naseer and will lead the company's strategic direction, operations and growth across the Pakistani market. Saeed brings with him over 21 years of experience in marketing, commercial strategy and business development across local and international markets, including Australia, Indonesia, and Pakistan. An alumnus of the Institute of Business Administration (IBA), Rehan Saeed joined L'Oréal Pakistan first in 2018 as the Commercial Director for the Consumer Products Division (CPD). In this role, he led a major go-to-market transformation and successfully doubled the division's business size and market share. In 2023, Rehan took on a role with L'Oréal Indonesia, first as Business Development Director and soon after as CPD Commercial Director. There, he built and led high-performing teams, fostered a culture of collaboration and championed the company's Commercial Transformation through Project Infinity. Copyright Business Recorder, 2025
