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Daily Mirror
30-04-2025
- Daily Mirror
Pretty UK seaside village frozen in time where tourists keep visiting
This Northumberland village transports travellers to different era, home to a historic smokehouse with world-class kippers and the remains of an imposing cliff-top fortress There is one part of the UK's marvellous coastline that is perfect for anyone looking to unplug. While mobile phone service is improving, it's still a bit hit or miss in some of Britain's most rural spots - but that only adds to the timeless feel and charm of this Northumberland destination. The village of Craster is less than an hour's drive from Newcastle and just a few miles from Alnwick. According to ChronicleLive, those that stumble upon this petite fishing village are able to enjoy stunning greenery and incredible seafood. Craster's fishing heritage plays a significant role in every facet of local life and, for tourists, the most well-known aspect of this hidden gem is its 'best in the world' fish. That famous fish is the humble kipper. L Robson & Sons is the home of Craster's world-famous kippers - smoked herrings typically eaten for breakfast or brunch. Established in 1856, this family business has exported its wares over the world, and rumour has it that these kippers are particularly popular with the British Royal Family. L Robson & Sons have been curing herring in its original smokehouses for 170 years and according to travellers on TripAdvisor, they have perfected their craft. One reviewer writes that the kippers in Craster offer "a real taste of Northumberland to take home with you". For its exceptional product, the smokehouse has earned a listed status from English Heritage and, as the company itself says, it has seen its reputation enhanced "by its endorsement on numerous television programmes and the approval of many of the county's top chefs." One of the reasons that smokeries have such a storied history in the village is because, centuries ago, herring was plentiful and very easy to catch in the area. Thus, it became a staple part of the local diet along the length of the coast. Today, the Craster business produces a million kippers a year. But kippers are not the only thing that has put Craster on travellers' radars. The village has been featured on television in a variety of ways, most recently on World's Most Scenic Railway Journeys. The show highlighted the village during a scenic train trip from York to Edinburgh, saying that here, "time seems to have stood still and ancient traditions continue.' The village's distinctly timeless look and feel has made it a beloved scouting location over the years. Craster has a whole host of credits to its name including Vera; Alibi's The Red King; Villages by the Sea and Robson Green's Weekend Escapes. But those who journey to see the village in-person will be rewarded with an immersive historical experience. The best place to bask in the area's rich history is at the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle. While only a portion of the castle stands today, it marks the spot where a grand fortress once stood. Visitors will be able to see the remains of the huge gatehouse and the Egyncleugh Tower, which overlooks Queen Margaret's Cove. The process of building the castle began in 1313 and historians have concluded that its incredible grandeur was due to the Earl Thomas of Lancaster's desire to assert authority over King Edward II. If castles are of strong interest, you can also take the 30-minute drive from Craster to Bamburgh castle. Or if you enjoyed the lovely cliff-top walk up to Dunstanburgh Castle and want to see more of the area's natural beauty, you can head to the Arnold Memorial Nature Reserve. This reserve, owned by the Northumberland Wildlife Trust, is a must-visit spot for avid birdwatchers. There is a reason this stretch of coast is a source of inspiration for artists and nature-lovers alike. While the cell service has improved over time, the ruins of an ancient castle, the rolling hills and the charcoal scent from the smokehouse will transport you to a different time.
The Guardian
20-04-2025
- The Guardian
Castles, causeways and crab sandwiches in Northumberland
1 Craster, a short drive from Alnwick, is a charming fishing village with a rugged coastline, crashing waves and bracing coastal walks. It is also a foodie delight. The Jolly Fisherman ( is ideally placed to enjoy the sea views. In its airy conservatory at the back of the pub, you can tuck into a feast of fresh fish on the daily menu, including crab, North Sea prawns, moules frites, salmon ∧ haddock fishcakes. Outside the pub, you'll notice a distinctive smoky aroma, no surprise as the shop opposite, L Robson & Sons, is home to the kipper, smoking fish on its site since 1856 and now awarded grade 11-II listed status. 2 Chances are that a stay in Northumberland will include rain, which is when Bamburgh Castle ( really comes into its own. Less overrun with tourists than Alnwick, it's also cheaper. Overlooking an epic sweep of beach and perched above the sand dunes, this 900-old castle has 14 rooms to explore, from the medieval kitchen to the Victorian Kings Hall, along with a fascinating history from its Norman origins to the current family living there. 3 Idyllically pretty Warkworth village is the perfect base for exploring the coastline, with a quaint high street, regency cottages and a castle on the hill. It's also a 15-minute walk to a stunning beach. Along this vast, sandy – and surprisingly empty – sweep of coastline you'll find neighbouring Alnmouth, another picturesque village with dunes and grassland overlooking the bay. Head for Main Street with its cosy tearooms and pubs; a local favourite is the mahogany panelled Red Lion Inn, although the fresh crab sandwiches at Bistro 23 are well worth a detour, too ( 4 For something distinctly less quaint, more mysterious and otherworldly, head to Holy Island. The drive across the causeway is reason enough to visit – the narrow strip of land, submerged by sea during high tide, is flat, desolate and eerily beautiful. There's much else besides; the 12th-century Lindisfarne priory, the epicentre of Christianity in Anglo Saxon times, and Lindisfarne castle perched on a rocky plateau. Don't miss Pilgrims Gelato, part of the Oat Kitchen on the main street ( with homemade vegan ice-cream and sorbets well worth the regular queues. 5 Hadrian's Wall stretches 73 miles coast to coast, from the River Tyne in the east to the Solway Firth in the west. Inland, Steel's Rigg near Sycamore Gap, has some of the best views along the wall, including ancient Roman ruins and a glacial lake. For a treat at the end of your walk is the Twice Brewed Inn ( – their Sycamore Gap pale ale and fishfinger sandwiches are highly recommended. 6 Stay at the Old Stables, nestled in the curve of the River Coquet and right next to Warkworth's bucolic church green. It is stylishly restored and converted with exposed brick and double-height kitchen giving it a loft-style feel. (The Old Stables (seven nights from £860, two bedrooms, sleeps four;
Yahoo
11-02-2025
- Yahoo
8 of the best smokehouses in the UK
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Rooted in medieval farmhouses, where families kept a fire smouldering to preserve meat, fish and cheese, smokeries have flourished even after the advent of refrigeration. One theory is that smoked food taps into the brain's limbic system, reminding us of cooking with fire. Or it could just be the juicy deliciousness, layered with the scent of the wood used. Across the UK, blackened stone smokeries light their pits for hot- and cold-smoking, using processes that can take days to reach the optimum result. Here are eight to visit. London's oldest working smokery opened in 1880 behind the fishmonger of the same name in Crouch End. It's still family-run, using recipes dating back six generations to cold-smoke oily fish from British ports. The process takes hours, with the fish suspended high above smouldering wood shavings to stay cool. Pop into the shop for salmon, mackerel, herring and trout, or the house speciality: kippers. This micro-smokery on a homestead in Wales's Cambrian Mountains specialises in dry-curing smoked bacon and lamb using a process that takes two weeks. Look out for interesting flavour combinations, such as smoked rum and molasses bacon, or a barbecue rub containing smoked salt and sugar. Owner Claire Jesse also runs workshops (including streaky bacon to take home) and offers accommodation in a 200-year-old stone barn. The speciality at this award-winning smokery — set up by former chef John Corfield in a cleit (storage hut) with stone walls and a peat roof — is perfectly flaky, alder-smoked salmon. It's sustainably sourced and Atlantic-farmed, and after being brined and infused for 24 hours, undergoes a nine-hour hot and gentle smoking process. The organic cold-smoked salmon and smoked trout are also packed with flavour. Tours and tastings are available to book. Clad in old stone on Craster harbour, L Robson & Sons has been infusing this Northumberland fishing village with the smoky-oak scent of fabled Craster kippers since 1856. Go home with oak-smoked kippers (fat herring smoked in a 16-hour process, perfect for breakfast), kipper fishcakes and traditional smoked salmon, haddock and cod, or buy kipper pâté to slather onto oatcakes and enjoy on a coastal ramble to nearby Dunstanburgh Castle. Using a method passed down by his grandparents, Bill Spink has been producing Arbroath smokies — North Sea haddock that's salted, dried and hot-smoked over hard wood — since 1965. Visit his smokery and shop overlooking the small but busy harbour in the Scottish town of Arbroath to pick up this protected local speciality, along with crab, salmon, mackerel, prawns, kippers, halibut and herring. On a 300-acre cattle and sheep farm, in the rippling hills near southwest Scotland's self-proclaimed 'food town' Castle Douglas, James and Karen Baird smoke their own lamb over dried Scottish hardwood in a hand-built smoker. Available roast or pulled, the meat is smoked 'low and slow' in small batches and sells out very quickly online. Based on traditional smoking techniques learned in Germany in the 1980s, the master smokers at this business on the Somerset Moors burn an open oak fire to hot-smoke mackerel, trout and local meats, including delicious chicken and watercress sausages. Cold-smoking takes up to 20 hours in a brick kiln, delivering flavours like salmon with orange and fennel. Visit the shop and restaurant or check dates for open days throughout the year. For 30 years, Terry and Chris have been catching eels in the wispy tributaries of The Wash and River Humber, then gently smoking them over beech chippings. The only company in the UK to catch and smoke its own eels, Smith's is a fixture at regional farmers' markets, including in Lincoln and Grantham. Check out the online shop too, for smoked salmon pâté, made with cream cheese and butter, as well as silky fillet of smoked trout. Published in Issue 26 (winter 2024) of Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK).To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
National Geographic
11-02-2025
- National Geographic
8 of the best smokehouses in the UK
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Rooted in medieval farmhouses, where families kept a fire smouldering to preserve meat, fish and cheese, smokeries have flourished even after the advent of refrigeration. One theory is that smoked food taps into the brain's limbic system, reminding us of cooking with fire. Or it could just be the juicy deliciousness, layered with the scent of the wood used. Across the UK, blackened stone smokeries light their pits for hot- and cold-smoking, using processes that can take days to reach the optimum result. Here are eight to visit. London's oldest working smokery opened in 1880 behind the fishmonger of the same name in Crouch End. It's still family-run, using recipes dating back six generations to cold-smoke oily fish from British ports. The process takes hours, with the fish suspended high above smouldering wood shavings to stay cool. Pop into the shop for salmon, mackerel, herring and trout, or the house speciality: kippers. This micro-smokery on a homestead in Wales's Cambrian Mountains specialises in dry-curing smoked bacon and lamb using a process that takes two weeks. Look out for interesting flavour combinations, such as smoked rum and molasses bacon, or a barbecue rub containing smoked salt and sugar. Owner Claire Jesse also runs workshops (including streaky bacon to take home) and offers accommodation in a 200-year-old stone barn. The speciality at this award-winning smokery — set up by former chef John Corfield in a cleit (storage hut) with stone walls and a peat roof — is perfectly flaky, alder-smoked salmon. It's sustainably sourced and Atlantic-farmed, and after being brined and infused for 24 hours, undergoes a nine-hour hot and gentle smoking process. The organic cold-smoked salmon and smoked trout are also packed with flavour. Tours and tastings are available to book. The smoky-oak scent of kippers can be traced throughout Craster thanks to local L Robson & Sons smokehouse. Photograph by Clearview, Alamy Clad in old stone on Craster harbour, L Robson & Sons has been infusing this Northumberland fishing village with the smoky-oak scent of fabled Craster kippers since 1856. Go home with oak-smoked kippers (fat herring smoked in a 16-hour process, perfect for breakfast), kipper fishcakes and traditional smoked salmon, haddock and cod, or buy kipper pâté to slather onto oatcakes and enjoy on a coastal ramble to nearby Dunstanburgh Castle. Using a method passed down by his grandparents, Bill Spink has been producing Arbroath smokies — North Sea haddock that's salted, dried and hot-smoked over hard wood — since 1965. Visit his smokery and shop overlooking the small but busy harbour in the Scottish town of Arbroath to pick up this protected local speciality, along with crab, salmon, mackerel, prawns, kippers, halibut and herring. On a 300-acre cattle and sheep farm, in the rippling hills near southwest Scotland's self-proclaimed 'food town' Castle Douglas, James and Karen Baird smoke their own lamb over dried Scottish hardwood in a hand-built smoker. Available roast or pulled, the meat is smoked 'low and slow' in small batches and sells out very quickly online. Based on traditional smoking techniques learned in Germany in the 1980s, the master smokers at this business on the Somerset Moors burn an open oak fire to hot-smoke mackerel, trout and local meats, including delicious chicken and watercress sausages. Cold-smoking takes up to 20 hours in a brick kiln, delivering flavours like salmon with orange and fennel. Visit the shop and restaurant or check dates for open days throughout the year. For 30 years, Terry and Chris have been catching eels in the wispy tributaries of The Wash and River Humber, then gently smoking them over beech chippings. The only company in the UK to catch and smoke its own eels, Smith's is a fixture at regional farmers' markets, including in Lincoln and Grantham. Check out the online shop too, for smoked salmon pâté, made with cream cheese and butter, as well as silky fillet of smoked trout. Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK). To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click Published in Issue 26 (winter 2024) of(UK).To subscribe to(UK) magazine click here . (Available in select countries only).
