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Boston Globe
6 days ago
- Business
- Boston Globe
Boston-area restaurants that accommodate gluten-free diners
Look for the Natick location of this homegrown burrito chainlet to roll out gluten-free homemade tortillas in the coming weeks; soon, they'll introduce the tortillas at each restaurant. 1265 Worcester St., Natick, 508-318-8960, Advertisement A Various locations, Get Winter Soup Club A six-week series featuring soup recipes and cozy vibes, plus side dishes and toppings, to get us all through the winter. Enter Email Sign Up The place to go when you need to please a crowd, with salads, bowls, seafood, steaks, and nachos — almost all of 'em available gluten-free. Plus, there's a kids' menu. 336 Moody St., Waltham, 781-899-0297, This 1271 Cambridge St., Cambridge, 617-945-1179, Advertisement Egg sandwich at Bom Dough in Cambridge. Lane Turner/Globe Staff An affable ale house that caters to gluten-free guests, with modifications for snacks like potato skins, poutine, even lobster-and-bacon grilled cheese and ice cream. 1885 Centre St., West Roxbury, 617-477-3298, This approachable, something-for-everyone chain offers a gluten-free version of its entire menu; this month, they're also donating a portion of dessert sales to Boston Children's Hospital Celiac Program. Various locations, Chef Jason Santos's Various locations, Fried chicken at Buttermilk & Bourbon. A favorite of gluten-free social media influencers (yes, this is a thing), sibling Italian restaurants Capo and Prima host gluten-free nights; Prima's is Monday, while Capo's is Tuesday. Most everything on the menus is gluten-free, from meatballs to pasta to arancini. 443 West Broadway, Boston, 617-993-8080, 10 City Square, Charlestown, Gluten-free pasta plates at Prima. A barbecue-oriented, comfort-food-focused pub with gluten-friendly options for baby back ribs, beef brisket, pulled pork, and more. 780 State Road, Dartmouth, 774-992-0183, This North Shore duo, with locations in Beverly and Salem, lives up to its name with husky egg sandwiches, available on gluten-free cheese-and-herb bread. Various locations, North Shore pizza-goers in the know rely on Danvers Pizza for an admirable roster of gluten-free pies with all your favorite toppings, plus gluten-free subs, calzones, and fries. The menu is well-labeled and easy to navigate. 136 Andover St., Danvers, 978-880-7959, Advertisement This Italian stalwart, now celebrating 40 years, has changed with the times to offer a full, pasta-laden, gluten-free lunch and dinner menu. Various locations, This cozy, dedicated gluten-free bakery focuses on bread: fresh-baked and fermented for 24 hours, along with gluten-free provisions like pastas and sweets. 915 Elm St., Manchester, N.H., 603-600-1773, Chef Ken Oringer is known for his celiac-friendly dishes (he even wrote a 278 Newbury St., Boston, 857-991-1080, Sip craft sake — gluten-free, made with rice, koji, yeast, and water — alongside gluten-safe cocktails and mocktails. Pop-up food vendors are required to offer both gluten-free and vegetarian choices. 120 N. Meadows Road, Medfield, 508-242-5416, A Medford favorite, For Pizza lets guests build their own gluten-free pies with safe, house-made dough; there's plant-based pizza, too. 51 High St., Medford, 781-219-3139, At these Various locations, Ensalada de Remolacha, Puerco Asado, and Pulpo at Gustazo Cuban Kitchen & Bar in Cambridge. Erin Clark/Globe Staff Advertisement A Newton staple for gluten-free, dairy-free, nut-free, and Kosher Pareve provisions, including gluten-free challah and sought-after latkes. 547 Commonwealth Ave., Newton, 617-795-2626, This popular Worcester-based bakery specializes in sweets safe for nut-free, gluten-free, and shellfish-free snackers; now, there's a branch at the Boston Public Market. It's a prime spot for allergy-friendly bespoke birthday cakes, too. Various locations, This doughnut shop serves 12 gluten-free varieties daily, made in a gluten-safe kitchen, in fun flavors like maple bacon and blueberry blast. Various locations, At this North End restaurant, all pasta (except ravioli) has a gluten-free alternative. 125 Salem St., Boston, 857-233-4500, This Various locations, Feast on breakfast bowls and gluten-free brioche French toast at this allergy-sensitive diner, with a dedicated gluten-free and meat-free fryer. 906 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge, 617-864-5301, The menu at this fried chicken and bubble tea destination — which resembles a 1980s arcade game — is more intuitive to navigate than a throwback round of Pac-Man, with a helpful allergy chart and plenty of celiac-safe options, including gluten-free rolls. 324 Walnut St., Newton, 617-433-8882, The artful poke bowls at this West End Hawaiian takeout spot are crafted in a gluten-free kitchen, which uses tamari instead of traditional soy. 103 Beverly St., Boston, 617-588-0889, Advertisement The kitchen at this 136 Haven St., 781-942-0001, Sarah Wade's comfort food restaurants offer gluten-free nights every Monday (Stillwater) and on the first Monday of every month (Sloane's), serving soothing plates like mac-and-cheese and spicy Nashville hot chicken. 197 North Harvard St., Allston, 617-693-8220, 120 Kingston St., Boston, 617-936-3079, A Porter Square haven for students on a budget, with a long menu of gluten-free alternatives that don't compromise on spice or flavor. 1933 Massachusetts Ave., 617-868-4200, Another hit from Ken Oringer (Faccia a Faccia), this time with pastry chef Monica Glass, with a 298 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge, 617-395-3125, A breakfast sandwich at Verveine Cafe and Bakery in Cambridge. Brooke Elmore This is Cambridge's go-to, gluten-free bakery, with a focus on special occasion cakes and cupcakes. 1782 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge, 857-500-2748, Prowling for even more resources? Visit the ever-popular, niche Facebook hit Kara Baskin can be reached at
Boston Globe
21-05-2025
- Business
- Boston Globe
At Taberna de Haro, all (still) seems right with the world
Get Winter Soup Club A six-week series featuring soup recipes and cozy vibes, plus side dishes and toppings, to get us all through the winter. Enter Email Sign Up Gambas al ajillo are an eternal must-order at Taberna de Haro. Lane Turner/Globe Staff Advertisement But also, why not keep coming back to a place that's so friendly and pleasant and bon vivant-ish? That's so itself, night after night and year after year. Particularly when the check arrives and we look at it and think, oh, that's actually what a night out with food and drink is supposed to cost. That seems about right. Deborah Hansen opened Taberna de Haro back in 1998. (Then-partner Julio de Haro would go on to open Estragon.) She ran the Brookline restaurant for more than 25 years, opening Boston's eyes and palates to Spanish food and drink. With more than 300 bottles, her all-Spanish wine list showcased regional diversity, with a generous focus on the many moods and pleasures of sherry. Jerez owes her an honorary ambassadorship. Advertisement Then, last year, she passed the torch to new owner Kristie Weiss. Weiss, who worked at restaurants such as Bar Volpe and Fox & the Knife, Haley Henry and Nathalie, and Select Oyster Bar, had been looking for her own place. 'I wanted it to feel right,' she says by phone. 'I'm a neighborhood person at heart. I didn't want it to feel brand new and shiny.' Her friend Hansen asked to have coffee and a chat. She said, ''I think you should buy Taberna.' I was like, ' What ?' I didn't even think that was a possibility.' After taking the reins last year at Taberna de Haro, owner Kristie Weiss has changed the place just enough and not too much. Lane Turner/Globe Staff Hansen brought the restaurant to life, then kept it alive through a financial downturn and a pandemic, in a dining scene changing at a head-spinning pace. She knew what it needed for its next chapter. A lot more of the same, a little bit of something new. A proprietress with a particular touch. A restaurant that offers both continuity and delight, where for a few hours all can feel right with the world. Indeed, Taberna de Haro is as warm and welcoming as ever, with its dim-lit interior, burgundy walls, and gilt-framed bar, a corner of the conjoining room opening into the kitchen. The lively outdoor patio is just coming into season. When Select Oyster Bar's sister restaurant Atlántico closed, Weiss hired many of the front-of-house staff, and the service feels more professional for it. Many of the cooks who had worked here for years still do, and the menu is much as it was, lightly refreshed. Advertisement There are a few new dishes, like those stuffed dates, grilled skirt steak, and Gildas, the Basque skewers of anchovies, olives, and pickled chiles that are an ideal drinking snack. And there's more accommodation for allergies and dietary needs — for instance, the paella del jardín is vegetarian, and made with vegetable rather than shellfish stock. It's a pleasant surprise. I am particular about paella, and I've always liked Taberna de Haro's, which is made to order and takes its time to reach the table. The arroz negro is made with squid ink, squid, and saffron shellfish stock; there is also a paella del mar, minus the ink and with an assortment of shellfish. I would likely enjoy an espadrille simmered in that saffron shellfish stock. Yet I don't particularly miss the stock or the seafood with the paella del jardín. The vegetable broth has plenty of flavor; the rice is the same, lightly caramelized on the bottom; the kitchen still takes its time to make the dish right. Gildas make an ideal drinking snack. Lane Turner/Globe Staff Mostly, though, I come here for the small plates, to graze on bit by bit. Perhaps I'll start with the Straight Law, a cocktail of sherry and gin with a cornichon-stuffed olive and lemon. (For a time, there was a bar-within-the-restaurant called Straight Law, but now it's all of a piece.) Someone always orders the sangria. The sherry-curious might go all in with a flight of four; it comes with informative notes about aging, yeast, and variety, plus a snack. (Get the excellent fried boquerones, boneless white anchovies in a light, crisp batter.) Then it's time to explore the world of Spanish wine. There are also plenty of alcohol-free options, from cocktails to beer and cider. Advertisement The croquetas de jamón are crowd-pleasing magic: crisp outside, filled with rich, ham-laced bechamel inside. I'm personally more partial to buñuelos de bacalao, salt cod fritters with garlic alioli. Or there's the excellent txistorra con brandada, skinny Basque sausages served grilled over salt cod. Seared oyster mushrooms come alongside a crisp-edged, bright-yolked fried duck egg, everything garlicky and flecked green with parsley. Tender bites of Spanish octopus swim in olive oil, lightly smoky with a dusting of paprika. Dishes are consistently satisfying, and with a few plates on the table, it feels forgivable if on one visit the gambas al ajillo are a little overcooked, or the fava beans sauteed with bacon, garlic, and mint arrive on the dry side. Txistorra con brandada, skinny grilled Basque sausages over salt cod. Lane Turner/Globe Staff A plate of Spanish cheeses with Marcona almonds, quince paste, and honey includes a mix of milks and textures; it makes an excellent dessert. For a bite of something a little sweet (and a little bitter), try grilled bread topped with a house-made dark chocolate truffle, drizzled in olive oil and sprinkled with cocoa powder and sea salt. What do we want from a restaurant? I mean really want — like, if it was the only restaurant in the world. A place that's friendly and serves good food. A place that's good for date night, friend gatherings, family dinners, alone time at the bar with a book. A place with atmosphere. A place we can visit regularly, without getting bored or going broke. Taberna de Haro is all of these things. TABERNA DE HARO ★★★ 999 Beacon St., Brookline, 617-277-8272, Wheelchair accessible Prices Tapas $5-$19, main dishes $26-$38, paella $39-$42, desserts $10-$16, cocktails $15. Advertisement Hours Mon-Sat 5-10 p.m. (Open Sundays in May only, 4-8 p.m.) Noise level Convivial. ★★★★★ Extraordinary | ★★★★ Excellent | ★★★ Very good | ★★ Good | ★ Fair | (No stars) Poor Devra First can be reached at
Boston Globe
20-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Boston Globe
On the sunny side with artist Andy Li
At the Navy Yard, a flagpole fitted with a rotating pinwheel at its midsection will project Li's upbeat vision to the world. At the top, a 4-by-6-foot homemade flag — a Li standard — stitched with the title text in lovingly handsewn font, will wave in the sea breeze. Artist Andy Li with his hand-stitched flag for the Boston Public Art Triennial at the Charlestown Navy Yard on May 13. Jasper Sanchez Li means it as a gentle exhortation to celebrate tiny victories, however minute; and with a website — Advertisement Being seen, really, is the point, Li said. 'Small moments can lead to big successes,' he said. 'So I'm saying don't discount them. Be in the moment. You can't change what happened, but you can choose what to do next. Grasp that and appreciate it.' If it sounds like self-actualization as art, well, Li is just that kind of guy. ''Today is the day' was my mantra,' he said. 'I just kept saying it to myself: 'Today is the day I'm going to get out of bed, I'm going to make myself coffee, I'm going to get through my to-do list.' And it evolved into this project. I wanted to create almost a ceremony for people to honor those moments along with me.' Andy Li's not-quite-finished 'Today is the Day' in the 'Lot Lab' space at the Charlestown Navy Yard for the Boston Public Art Triennial earlier this week. Lane Turner/Globe Staff Li's slogan could as easily be a mantra for the Triennial itself. A broad international affair that sprawls from downtown to Mattapan, Dorchester, Cambridge, and Charlestown, it's been a decade in coming, and Li has been along for the ride. A MassArt grad, he was among a cohort of Boston-based artists chosen for the Accelerator program with Starting in 2015, Now + There peppered the urban landscape with an array of contemporary art projects in 'I want to help people to find their own moments of joy,' Li said. Out there in the open with the whole city watching, the Triennial is his best bet yet. Advertisement ANDY LI: TODAY IS THE DAY A project of the Boston Public Art Triennial. May 22-Oct. 31. Charlestown Navy Yard, One 5th Street. Murray Whyte can be reached at
Boston Globe
20-05-2025
- Politics
- Boston Globe
What do local commercial fishermen think of Trump?
Advertisement Captain Mike Frontiero, owner and captain of the Dunlin lobster boat, baited lobster traps with red fish. Lane Turner/Globe Staff 'I guess I'm hopeful but I'm not convinced yet that anyone's going to roll up their sleeves and be able to break that bureaucracy . . . that seems to be what's killing us,' said Vito Giacalone, a Gloucester native, former ground fishermen, and policy director at the Northeast Seafood Coalition. The same rules assailed by fishermen as draconian and grounded in faulty methodology are held up by some conservationists as necessary to protect fishermen from repeatedly overfishing certain species to the point of depletion. Federal fishing regulations are complicated and different fisheries, such as lobster, scallops, shrimp, or groundfish like cod and haddock, have different rules. Advertisement The groundfish season opened on time in early May, but only after federal authorities passed emergency regulations, ending weeks of uncertainty. Among fishermen, skepticism about the immediate future of that fishery persists. And then there is the whipsaw of Trump's tariffs, which bring with them more questions than answers. 'Start with one word: fragile,' Mark Ring, Mark Ring, captain of the Stanley Thomas lobster boat, lifted traps off the dock to load onto his boat on Saint Peter's Marina in Gloucester harbor on Wednesday. Lane Turner/Globe Staff Skepticism of federal regulation seems embedded in the DNA of commercial fishermen, and Trump, too. He has ordered a review of fishing regulations and floated opening national marine monuments, which are designations intended to safeguard precious ocean ecosystems, to commercial fishing. 'Federal overregulation has restricted fishermen from productively harvesting American seafood,' Trump said in an executive order. The president has also gutted many federal agencies, The Trump administration and its Department of Government Efficiency NOAA, a large federal agency that includes the National Weather Service, declined to say how such cutbacks have affected its oversight of fishing. Advertisement 'We are not discussing internal personnel and management matters,' said a NOAA spokesperson in an email to the Globe. 'NOAA remains dedicated to its mission.' On the Gloucester docks, there is little sympathy for those who may have lost their jobs at the agency. 'I don't have a problem putting all those people at NOAA out of work,' said Doug Germain, a lobsterman who has fished out of Gloucester for the last 40 years. 'They've been putting us out of work for the last 20, 30 years.' To be sure, not everyone is embracing Trump's approach to NOAA, which has produced concern amongst environmental advocates. Poon said the political moment in the United States could see major disruptions to science, which could put fish stocks 'at real risk and fishing businesses at real risk.' 'Once fisheries are overfished it takes years, maybe decades to fix it,' she said. But rightly or wrongly, Gloucester locals grumble that federal regulations restrain them from fishing when they want, how they want, and pine for what once was. Inside the Crow's Nest one recent afternoon, Joe Mondello, a 75-year-old lobsterman who has fished out of Gloucester since 1973, sat at the bar, a Budweiser bottle and Keno slip before him. He flipped through his phone to show black-and-white photos of Gloucester harbor in decades past. The industry, he said, 'has obviously gone downhill.' 'There's no question in my mind,' he said. 'Everything's overregulated.' Advertisement Regulations, of course, aren't the only winds buffeting the industry. Others wonder what Trump's tariffs will mean for them and their industry. About 100 miles south of Gloucester lies New Bedford, the number one port in the country in terms of the value of the catch that lands there. John Lees is the owner of a commercial fishing business that imports and exports seafood. He mostly deals in scallops and manages a fleet of commercial sea scallopers, as well. As in Gloucester, what Trump's tariffs will mean for him and the industry more broadly, remains unknown. 'I am securing product that I need for the next, you know, six to eight to nine months for this year,' he said. 'We don't know what is going to happen six months from now, a year from now.' In Rhode Island, Chris Lee is chief executive of Sea Fresh USA, which runs its own vessels, owns a fishing pier, and manages a processing plant. Its main business is squid but it also sells whiting, scup, and butterfish. The majority is sold domestically, but some is exported to Europe and Asia. Lee said his industry has a complicated view of the Trump administration's moves on tariffs. He recently attended a trade show in Spain where there was great uncertainty among companies that buy from and sell fish to the United States. 'There's a lot of concern,' he said. 'No one's quite sure where the plane is going to land on tariffs exactly.' But he also said domestic processing companies such as his may benefit from higher import taxes. A significant amount of seafood Americans consume comes from abroad, making it Advertisement The Labor-In-Vain lobster boat headed out of Gloucester harbor to set traps on Wednesday. Lane Turner/Globe Staff Back in Gloucester, Ring, the lobsterman, had ducked out of the Crow's Nest and was seated on a bench on Main Street. He gestured toward a pair of hulking vessels docked nearby that were rigged to catch herring. Regulators have reduced the allowable herring catch across the fishery exponentially in recent years, he said. 'They're basically out of business,' he said. Al Cottone, executive director of the Gloucester Fisheries Commission, estimated there are about 20 to 25 vessels that fish for groundfish, which has a 400-year history locally, compared with about 100 such boats 25 years ago. Will Trump make a difference? Germaine, the lobsterman, shrugs at the question. 'Sometimes he just likes to say things to piss people off,' he said. Germain said he was neither a Trump fan nor a Trump critic. 'They're going to be more friendly to fishermen,' he said, 'but I don't know if it's too late.' Danny McDonald can be reached at
Boston Globe
07-05-2025
- Boston Globe
Captain Marden's restaurant in Wellesley is everything a New England fish house should be
Cioppino at Captain Marden's Seafoods Restaurant. Lane Turner/Globe Staff Advertisement What to eat Clam chowder, of course, which has just the right balance between thin and thick and a deliciously briny broth. A plump lobster roll, with skinny fries and good slaw. If there wasn't a lettuce leaf between the salad and bread, it would show off both better; the chef says many customers would disagree. A lovely tuna tartare, a cross between the one Ming Tsai made at Advertisement What to drink A new beer and wine license offers a pretty even mix of Old and New World wines. The list is cautious, but serviceable, and comfortably priced. Almost all the brews are from the region. The takeaway You'll find grilled seafood, fried seafood, raw oysters, shrimp, mussels, whole steamed lobster, baked stuffed lobster, even caviar — most of the items on a Cape or North Shore seafood menu. Reservations are accepted for groups of six only, so all the duos, trios, and quartets have to wait outside the restaurant, adjacent to an overflowing parking lot. Inside, there are more high-tops than I like (I'd never sit at one by choice), with some seats at a bar. Service is friendly and efficient, hosts are quite good at juggling the waitlist, it's easy to get in and out quickly if you're an Early Bird (the restaurant opens early and closes early), and no one's washing the floor around you if you're on the late side. Marden's has everything a casual New England seafood house should have, including the lines. 279 Linden St., Wellesley, 781-235-3737, . Entrees $17-$36 (prices on some items vary). Advertisement Haddock at Captain Marden's in Wellesley. Lane Turner/Globe Staff Sheryl Julian can be reached at
