Latest news with #Levantine
Irish Examiner
2 days ago
- Health
- Irish Examiner
The Menu: I ignored the warning tingle of a food allergy — soon I was waiting for an ambulance
Recently, I headed into town on a 'fat-finding' mission, culinary cousin of the fact-finding mission, that has me seeking out wonderful new ways to pile on the pounds. In one favourite venue, a selection of divine dishes included roasted aubergine slice, rolled and stuffed with cream cheese and walnut. Aubergine has long been one of my most favourite foods, first discovered decades ago upon moving abroad when it was still largely unknown on these shores. I didn't even have a recipe the first time I cooked it, inventing a dish that soaked up half a pint of olive oil yet still tasted delicious. I became a lifelong aubergine acolyte. Baba ganoush blew my tiny mind: fire roasting the purple-black globe over naked flame, turning flesh to a gooey mush, blending it with tahini, olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, and salt. I improvised additions, natural yogurt and cumin and, eaten with flatbread, olives and a fine Lebanese red, it brings Levantine summer to even the darkest days. After my first encounter with ratatouille, we were told to get a room, such was my primal passion for this great peasant dish from the south of France with aubergine as an essential component. I regularly grilled slices of aubergine, marinating them, Italian-style, in olive oil, garlic and herbs, a jar always in the fridge for a quick snack with crusty bread and crisp green salad. One evening last summer, after such a supper, I registered tingling on the lips. Really, I thought, an allergic reaction? When the requirement to list allergens on Irish menus was first introduced, many chefs I talked to expressed their 'disgruntlement'. Granted, they had heard of potentially fatal anaphylaxis but presumed that was just peanuts. For most, 'allergies' equated to those deeply irritating diners who elevate a 'dislike' to the status of allergy — tales were legion of those with a flagged 'gluten allergy' subsequently spotted gorging on the bread basket. In my family, however, we have learned to take allergies a bit more seriously, having sampled from the full medley of allergic conditions, including asthma, eczema, hayfever and even anaphylaxis. My mother developed food allergies later in life and now carries an epi-pen for potentially fatal reactions to citrus, tomatoes, strawberries, nuts and shellfish — all the makings of an excellent meal. A nephew is anaphylactic (nuts) as is one of my own who carries an epi-pen for his peanut allergy. My own chronic hayfever (and an asthmatic reaction to house dust) is a royal pain in the arse but at least I don't eat grass. A potential allergy to a favourite food? I did what any right-thinking glutton would do and blocked it entirely out of my head until faced with this delightful little delicacy and, even then, took a nibble, after all, it was just a tingle. This time, within two minutes, tingling be damned, my lips were on fire. Within five, I was scrambling for an over-the-counter antihistamine from a nearby pharmacy. Shortly after, the pharmacist was taking my blood pressure, asking permission to administer an epi-pen should my symptoms worsen, while we waited for the ambulance she had called. The ambulance crew ended up staying for almost two hours as I rallied but they waited for a mobile triage doctor to sign me off as safe. I await formal testing but my own doctor has already issued an epi-pen and banned me forever from eating aubergines. I had known aubergines, one of the world's most popular foods, were a member of the nightshade family (Solanaceae), along with potatoes, bell peppers, and tomatoes, and in my ignorance presumed a relationship to deadly nightshade. Actually, an aubergine allergy is rare but can be caused by cross-reactivity, where an allergy to proteins in one substance can trigger a reaction to similar proteins in another. Aubergine is high in histamines, to which I already react badly thanks to hayfever. I have physically recovered from the event but am now in deep mourning for the permanent loss of aubergines. No more parmigiana, moussaka, aubergine risotto … the list is endless, the heartbreak even longer, further augmented by a deep-seated unease at the potential extent of my genetic maternal inheritance. After all, what good is a food writer who is allergic to food? TODAY'S SPECIAL Fixx coffee The majority of Anne Abberton's Fixx coffee business is B2B, to cafés and restaurants etc, but she still finds time for the niche items, including single origin coffees, also available on subscription. The classic Lisbon makes for a very fine espresso but the latest single origin, Finca La Mercedes, San Salvador Volcán (El Salvador) is a light roast best drunk as filter, presenting with a lush mouthfeel, pleasing acidity and notes of nutty chocolate, apple and red berry. €14.95 (online or in select retail outlets) Cheesemaker chats Boyne Valley's Centre of Food Culture is staging Meet The Cheesemaker, a cracking series of on-farm events across the country celebrating world-class Irish farmhouse cheeses and their producers. Guided tours of each farm and cheesemaking facilities, along with conversations with the cheesemaker and tastings, run right through until autumn. Supported by Sheridans' Cheesemongers, scheduled visits are as follows: Boyne Valley Farmhouse Cheese (June 7); Coolattin Cheddar (July 5); Leitrim Hill Creamery (July 13); and Killeen Farmhouse Cheese (Sept 20). Limited tickets, pre-booking essential.
Observer
2 days ago
- Entertainment
- Observer
Making leftovers feel like a feast
When Salam Dakkak was growing up in Jordan, dinner didn't end when the plates were cleared. It simply transformed. Her mother would take whatever remained — a spinach stew, a lentil soup, even sautéed vegetables — and tear up old bread, reheat the dish, pour it on top and finish it all with a cool yoghurt sauce and some fried nuts. 'It wasn't just leftovers,' Dakkak said. 'It was a brand-new meal.' That meal had a name: fatteh. Long before appearing on restaurant menus or Instagram feeds, fatteh, from the Arabic verb fatta (to break or tear), was a tradition across Arab households, a generous layered dish that breathes new life into food. Today, Dakkak, 62, the chef-owner of Bait Maryam in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, serves fatteh at her Levantine restaurant in the classic chickpea-and-yoghurt style and in countless other interpretations — some she even helped pioneer. Msakhan, the Palestinian dish of roast chicken with sumac and onions, was, according to her, first served as fatteh in her restaurant. 'The point is to not waste food,' Dakkak said. 'Whatever you have leftover, you repurpose, you make beautiful, you add some new elements and then — Ya Allah — just try how delicious it becomes.' 'People are turning everything into fatteh,' said Sawsan Daana, a Kuwait-based Palestinian chef and founder of Matbakhi. Eggplant fatteh. Food styled by Samantha Seneviratne. — The New York Times Online, you'll find rich, refined, even theatrical versions of the dish. But at its heart is always an unchanged structure: crispy bread, topped with something warm (legumes, vegetables or meats and in more traditional iterations, rice), something cooling (a yoghurt or chili-lemon sauce) and a crunchy element (fried nuts, pomegranate seeds or more toasted bread). Once you have these few elements, you can assemble a different version every night or pull it together in minutes when company comes over. But, despite all that, fatteh hasn't quite caught on with home cooks in the United States. 'A lot of foods like fatteh, mulukhiyah, bamieh — any of these foods we grew up eating at home — they are a lot less popular in restaurants,' said Ahmad Alzahabi, 28, a Michigan-based Syrian content creator, who added that restaurants help introduce Americans to foods they'd eventually want to make in their own kitchens. For restaurants, it can be a matter of execution. 'It's a dish that needs to be prepared and eaten right away — the hot and cold, the soft and crunch, those elements have to come together just right,' said Philippe Massoud, the chef-owner of Ilili in New York and Washington, DC, who has occasionally served fatteh over the years. 'So you have to prepare and serve it last and eat it first.' This has made fatteh impractical for him to keep on regular rotation. But that hasn't deterred others. Salam Dakkak, the chef-owner of Bait Maryam, at the restaurant in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. — The New York Times At Oleana Restaurant and Moona in Cambridge, Massachusetts, fatteh is always on the menu and one of their top sellers. 'I fear our customers will launch a revolution if we remove it,' said Mohamad El Zein, the owner of Moona, laughing. Still, where fatteh always shines is at home. It's an economical, adaptable and endlessly forgiving blueprint, filling without being fussy and impressive without trying too hard, the kind of meal that makes use of what's on hand but still feels like a feast. Or, as Dakkak said: 'Fatteh is not just one dish, it's a format. It can be anything.' — The New York Times
Qatar Living
4 days ago
- Entertainment
- Qatar Living
Celebrate Eid Al-Adha in Palatial Style at Marsa Malaz Kempinski, The Pearl
Embrace the spirit of Eid Al-Adha at Marsa Malaz Kempinski, The Pearl – Doha, where timeless elegance and heartfelt hospitality come together on a private island sanctuary. This year, the palace unveils a collection of refined culinary moments, family experiences, and wellness indulgences curated to bring joy and connection to all. 'Eid Al-Adha is a time for togetherness, reflection, and celebration. At Marsa Malaz Kempinski, we take pride in creating a setting where families can reconnect, indulge in exquisite experiences, and make lasting memories in an atmosphere of true luxury.' Mr. Yazan Latif, General Manager, Marsa Malaz Kempinski, The Pearl – Doha A Curated collection of Eid experiences awaits. Celebrate the joy of Eid Al-Adha with a thoughtfully crafted selection of elevated dining, wellness, and leisure experiences across the palace: Al Sufra sets the tone for refined celebration with a grand Oriental Brunch on the first day of Eid, followed by exquisite Levantine dinners served family-style throughout the festivities. FAUCHON Paris offers a taste of Parisian indulgence with its signature Afternoon Tea and elegantly presented Eid hampers, the perfect gift of gourmet refinement. Public House brings a relaxed elegance to the season with its retro-inspired Kiosk by the Beach, serving handcrafted bites and refreshing sips right to your lounger, ideal for uninterrupted poolside indulgence. NOZOMI Doha invites guests on a contemporary Japanese culinary journey, featuring live teppanyaki and signature dishes made for sharing on the first two days of Eid. The Secret Garden comes alive with golden hour gatherings, nostalgic DJ sets, and an exclusive selection of celebratory cocktails. By nightfall, Bohemia welcomes guests to a refined escape of rich aromas, premium cigars, and laid-back sophistication. At the Marsa Malaz Spa, wellness is reimagined with a tranquil Eid Spa Daycation, opulent Hammam rituals, and a bespoke Barber Bliss Package for the modern gentleman. The Titan Tikes Kids Club becomes a vibrant haven of creativity and Eid-themed joy for the young ones, allowing families to relax and reconnect throughout the resort. Guests can also take advantage of a special Eid room package, featuring a stay in a Deluxe or Grand Deluxe Suite with breakfast for two – the perfect way to celebrate Eid in refined comfort. With elegantly appointed rooms, exceptional dining, serene wellness offerings and engaging activities for all ages, Marsa Malaz Kempinski offers the perfect setting to create lasting memories this Eid. For bookings and enquiries, please contact: T: +974 4035 5555 E: W: --- Make sure to check out our social media to keep track of the latest content. Instagram - @qatarliving X - @qatarliving Facebook - Qatar Living YouTube - qatarlivingofficial
San Francisco Chronicle
5 days ago
- General
- San Francisco Chronicle
This Middle Eastern restaurant is a hidden gem in Wine Country
It's impossible to have drab food at Spread Kitchen. The dishes are vividly colorful with even brighter flavors. Look no further than the Lebanese restaurant's stunning mezzes. The hot pink whipped feta with beets is sour and silky; the baba ganoush thick and smoky; and the green tahini spiced and zesty. Each spread functions like a Lego: stackable building blocks of flavor, fostering a spirit of experimentation. The Sonoma restaurant, which quietly opened three years ago, is one of the best Middle Eastern restaurants in the Bay Area. I would also say it's the region's strongest Lebanese restaurant, but chef-owner Cristina Topham prefers to call it 'Lebanese-inspired.' Indeed, it's the restaurant's sense of individuality that shines over its strict adherence to tradition. Topham gleefully sidesteps those confines in favor of seasonal produce and unconventional flavor, inviting external spice profiles from Ethiopia and India. Lebanese cooking overlaps with several Levantine and Middle Eastern cuisines, but it's distinguished by a prolific use of lemons, according to Topham. The restaurant goes through gallons a week. This sunshine animates mezzes, marinades, salads and more. Spread's menu is modular. A lunch visit might include a wrap or grain bowl, while a full dinner shouldn't go without dips, loaded fries or grilled meats. Everything except the pita, sourced from a local Syrian baker, is made in-house. Topham is not shy about her worship of lemons. You'll find drops in smooth toum, which serves as the garlicky marinade for chicken, beef and ground lamb. The fried Brussels sprouts and fried cauliflower are drizzled with lemon-laced tahini; the latter is further electrified with briny preserved lemon. The pickled citrus is a trademark of the chef, making appearances in fondant-thick labneh and Pepto Bismol-tinted beet feta — the best of the dips. The dip platter ($14-$26) allows you to sample up to five alongside pita, pickles and fresh veggies, but you can save a few bucks on dips if you order side scoops ($4) instead. I recommend scooping spreads with thin za'atar-spiced pita chips ($6), which stand out more than the standard pita. Grain bowls ($20-$24) are the comprehensive option, featuring savory hummus made with black garbanzos, puckery tabbouleh salad, aromatic saffron rice, and your choice of fried cauliflower, grilled meat — like lamb seasoned with Ethiopian berbere — or falafel. Those orbs have garnered a local following for being crunchy yet tender. Topham uses a mix of whole chickpeas and chickpea flour to create a looser texture, which, Topham says, helps prevent dryness as the flour soaks up the frying oil. The falafel are a great accompaniment ($6) to loaded fries ($14), which are a step above the average, balancing salty decadence with acidity. Feta cheese, tahini-yogurt sauce and pickled onions combat the rich spice of the za'atar. The fries are where you can get maximalist with flavor. I encourage you to add nutty green tahini, seasoned with turmeric and fenugreek, and house-made hot sauce, a paste made of three Mexican peppers. For something lighter, try the unconventional fattoush salad (small for $12, large $16), which reaches for beets and apples when tomatoes are out of season. You'll want to eat in the large, charming outdoor patio, whose wooden perimeter is decorated with kitschy art made from salvaged gardening tools. It's as if the place was created to maximize the pacifying warmth of the Sonoma sun. There's indoor seating, too, but the area is mostly functional. Despite Spread's casual nature, nothing is casual about Topham's command of flavor, which she honed over 27 years of cooking. She cut her teeth in kitchens in Paris, New York and Napa; she worked as a private chef and cooked on yachts, where she once crossed paths with Meryl Streep. ('She's really nice,' Topham said.) In 2016, she launched Spread Kitchen as a catering company in Sonoma. The pandemic forced her to pivot to meal kits, and in 2021, she brought Spread to Wine Country farmers markets. A year later, she opened Spread, her first restaurant, right off Highway 12 in Sonoma. Topham views food as a creative outlet. 'I like to play with my food,' she said. That sense of exuberance is what attracted me to Spread. It clears the bar for traditional mezzes but always leaves room for the chef's personality. Is Spread the most traditional? No, but that's the point. Hours: 11 a.m.-8:30 p.m Wednesday-Sunday. Accessibility: Steps by front entrance. Wheelchair ramp by back entrance. Outdoor area with wooden deck, which isn't wheelchair accessible. Noise level: Mild. Meal for two, without drinks: $45-$60 Drinks: Beer and wine. Try the orange blossom lemonade ($4). Best practices: Experiment with the dips and sauces by seeing how many you can try in one bite.
Time Out Dubai
7 days ago
- Entertainment
- Time Out Dubai
Antika's new chapter at 25hours Hotel has to be your next nightlife destination
Oriental restaurant and bar Antika has moved house, and we reckon it's a pretty solid excuse to switch up your usual weekend plans. Whether you're chasing a dance floor, a sing-along or just the next destination to debut your latest fit, this spot at 25hours Hotel Dubai One Central might just be what your calendar's been missing. Nestled within the 25 Jump Street – a multivenue dining destination – in DIFC, Antika offers an immersive dining experience, blending culinary delights with cultural entertainment. Inspired by Oriental golden-age glamour, its new home features red velvet seats, gold columns and a patterned ceiling. It's sultry, opulent and utterly eye-catching. Blending all the familiar things we know and love about the concept – hearty Levantine cuisine, romantic interiors and energy that builds as the night does, this DIFC hot spot is perfect when you're trying to impress your date or when you and the gang are after some good fun. The food is served along with plenty of live oriental entertainment. Every night, the stage is graced by the Middle East's top artists hitting high notes. Dancers reinterpret heritage melodies seamlessly giving way to dynamic DJ sets that are sure to keep you tapping your feet through the night. Speaking of food, the meal is every bit the Levantine spread you're after. Chef Louay Noureldine's Levantine menu is sure to take you on a journey across the desert. The Hummus Royale, crowned with Wagyu tenderloin, the Fisherman's grilled lobster and Osmaliyeh tiramisu are all showstoppers. Don't forget to grab yourself a drink from the bar, where the curated mixed drinks spotlight regional ingredients. So, what are you waiting for? Antika's laid out the welcome mat – your only job is to turn up and tuck in. Book now: Open Tue-Sun 9pm-3am. 25hours Hotel, @antikadubai
