Latest news with #MarcelloMariani
The Age
12 hours ago
- Entertainment
- The Age
An almost-30-year-old city power-lunch hub finally gets its second hat
Since Caterina's opened in 1995, chefs have somehow turned into celebrities. Not here. Marcello Mariani has been cooking here for eight years in a kitchen that's invisible to the dining room. A northerner inspired by all parts of Italy, he's a wonderful first violin for conductor Caterina, crafting everything from scratch, finding the balance between technique and touch. Salt cod is softened with milk, infused with bay leaves and then whipped with olive oil for piling onto bread: start there. His vitello tonnato pulls an Italian staple from the sea of ubiquity and reminds you why the combination of veal, tuna and capers actually works. There's always raw, sliced, dressed fish, maybe goldband snapper with a trifecta of citruses, tempered by persimmon sauce. Slow-cooked, tender duck leg is torn through a rich spinach and herb sauce that clings to short, twirled pasta. There's always rabbit. This time, it's on the bone in a light, white-wine braise rounded out with onion, green olives, garlic and butter. You might have it layered with chestnuts between crepes or rolled with prosciutto. What tasty, versatile meat, and how good to see it honoured. When hazelnuts come in, straight from the farmer, the dessert specials tend to star gianduja, a blend of chocolate and hazelnut butter. I had it piped into a delicate, chocolate-tart shell lidded with a pretty lattice of shaved rhubarb.
Sydney Morning Herald
12 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Sydney Morning Herald
An almost-30-year-old city power-lunch hub finally gets its second hat
Since Caterina's opened in 1995, chefs have somehow turned into celebrities. Not here. Marcello Mariani has been cooking here for eight years in a kitchen that's invisible to the dining room. A northerner inspired by all parts of Italy, he's a wonderful first violin for conductor Caterina, crafting everything from scratch, finding the balance between technique and touch. Salt cod is softened with milk, infused with bay leaves and then whipped with olive oil for piling onto bread: start there. His vitello tonnato pulls an Italian staple from the sea of ubiquity and reminds you why the combination of veal, tuna and capers actually works. There's always raw, sliced, dressed fish, maybe goldband snapper with a trifecta of citruses, tempered by persimmon sauce. Slow-cooked, tender duck leg is torn through a rich spinach and herb sauce that clings to short, twirled pasta. There's always rabbit. This time, it's on the bone in a light, white-wine braise rounded out with onion, green olives, garlic and butter. You might have it layered with chestnuts between crepes or rolled with prosciutto. What tasty, versatile meat, and how good to see it honoured. When hazelnuts come in, straight from the farmer, the dessert specials tend to star gianduja, a blend of chocolate and hazelnut butter. I had it piped into a delicate, chocolate-tart shell lidded with a pretty lattice of shaved rhubarb.
