An almost-30-year-old city power-lunch hub finally gets its second hat
Salt cod is softened with milk, infused with bay leaves and then whipped with olive oil for piling onto bread: start there. His vitello tonnato pulls an Italian staple from the sea of ubiquity and reminds you why the combination of veal, tuna and capers actually works. There's always raw, sliced, dressed fish, maybe goldband snapper with a trifecta of citruses, tempered by persimmon sauce. Slow-cooked, tender duck leg is torn through a rich spinach and herb sauce that clings to short, twirled pasta.
There's always rabbit. This time, it's on the bone in a light, white-wine braise rounded out with onion, green olives, garlic and butter. You might have it layered with chestnuts between crepes or rolled with prosciutto. What tasty, versatile meat, and how good to see it honoured.
When hazelnuts come in, straight from the farmer, the dessert specials tend to star gianduja, a blend of chocolate and hazelnut butter. I had it piped into a delicate, chocolate-tart shell lidded with a pretty lattice of shaved rhubarb.
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