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The Australian
3 days ago
- Business
- The Australian
The Australian Wine Club: Deal on Italian reds
Some call it the king of wines – to others, Barolo can be more of a tyrant, brooking no argument and giving off astringently unwelcoming vibes. To say that Barolo is an acquired taste is a bit like acknowledging that not everyone likes caviar. Some expensive experiences are simply not to everyone's tastes, and the tarry, tannin-drenched reds that give the Barolo region in northern Italy such a pedigree can be a disappointment for those expecting a different kind of wine. The nebbiolo grapes – native to the northwest region of Piedmont – from which Barolo, by law, has to be made are little natural capsules of tannin and acidity. That's partly why a period of ageing is mandated for Barolo wines, to allow a certain degree of mellowing – even then, the power and mouth-coating richness are still its hallmarks. But not all Piedmontese nebbiolo is destined for these heavyweight lipsmackers. With modern winemaking techniques, grapes grown a short drive from the defined boundaries of the Barolo Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita can deliver wines with beautifully fresh, fruit-driven profiles. Wines like the Cossaro Monferrato Nebbiolo 2022, part of this week's special offer case from The Australian Wine Club – a thoughtful quartet of Italian reds that stray far from any cliche of Chianti in a basket. As well as the nebbiolo there is the 2019 Amagia Etna Rosso, a blend driven by the nerello mascalese grapes from the mineral-rich slopes of Mount Etna with an RRP of $45. There's a 2022 Sartirano Figli Pinot Nero (Italian for pinot noir) and a Poggio al Lago Ripasso Valpolicella Ripasso 2021, from Verona in the northeast. It's a mixed case that evokes undeniable pride in the voice of the Wine Club's man on the ground, Leo Bassano, who worked with winemaker Marco Cassaro to deliver something akin to Barolo's hip and engaging young nephew. 'Nebbiolo is the king of Piedmontese winemaking, but sometimes people have the perception before they drink a Barolo that it will be like a big, plummy Californian red, or even something from the Languedoc in France,' Bassano says. 'Then they get disappointed, but we wanted to show them that there are many styles of nebbiolo, and the wines from the Monferrato region are much softer. 'We wanted something that shows off the wild berry and red cherry flavours, the softness – there is tannin but it's riper and softer. It's quite skilful winemaking – you need to crush carefully, you need to control the temperature, you need to macerate very carefully, you need to handle the grapes very gently because otherwise you extract the harsher tannins. 'The fact that we have these relationships with these wineries allows us to do this – to source grapes and source wine across different areas and different denominations.' Cossaro Monferrato Nebbiolo 2022 All of the hallmarks of Nebbiolo are here but in a fresh-faced, welcoming package – starting with cherry and liquorice bullets on the nose, floral notes but also a savoury undertow, and just a hint of tar and dried herbs. The palate is soft, silky and fresh, with plum and black cherry, espresso and chocolate, but also that tar for depth and tannins that are silky but structural to deliver a long finish. 14% alc, RRP $38 a bottle. SPECIALS: $29.99 in any dozen, $28.99 in our Italian dozen. Armagia Etna Rosso 2019 It's hard not to picture a winter dessert straight from the oven as you breath in notes of cherry, vanilla, spiced plum, a hint of rhubarb and baking spices like cinnamon and nutmeg. But then the palate is juicy, washing those crunchy red fruits with lovely acidity and a touch more spice, and held in enough tannic structure to pitch it all in a perfect key. 13.5% alc, RRP $45 a bottle. SPECIALS: $36.99 in any dozen, $28.99 in our Italian dozen. Sartirano Figli Pinot Nero 2022 With a medium garnet glint, the colour draws you in – but it's the aroma that seals the deal, full of floral notes with cherry and red berries giving way to chocolate, liquorice and a hint of leather. The palate is just so refreshing, more cherries and a hint of vanilla and sprinkled spice. Lovely, silky tannins give it an elegant length and medium body – Parma ham on the side anyone? 13.5% alc, RRP $40 a bottle. SPECIALS: $32.99 in any dozen, $28.99 in our Italian dozen. Poggio al Lago Ripasso Valpolicella Ripasso 2021 An hour in a decanter before serving transforms this and unlocks a medley of ripe red fruits on the nose, cherry and summer berries, offset by cinnamon and chocolate. The cherry on the palate is lovely and ripe, along with chocolate and spice and just a lick of espresso. It's all very plush and concentrated but a splash of acidity on the finish gives a freshness and balance. 13.5% alc, RRP $35 a bottle. SPECIALS: $31.99 in any dozen, $28.99 in our Italian dozen. ITALIAN DOZEN: Three bottles of each wine above for $28.99 a bottle. SAVE $126.12. Order online or phone 1300 765 359 Monday to Friday, 9am to 5pm AEST and quote 'ACCJ'. Deals are available only while stocks last. The Australian Wine Club is a commercial partnership with Laithwaites Wine.
Daily Mail
05-07-2025
- Daily Mail
'Everything here is just right': TOM PARKER BOWLES has lunch on the small Aeolian Island of Salina
It's just after 1pm on the small Aeolian Island of Salina, and not much is happening at all. A few tourists wander through the harbour, oblivious to the searing sun, while the locals, with one last cigarette and a final titbit of gossip, shut up shop in readiness for the siesta ahead. At Porto Bello, a small, elegant restaurant above the harbour, lunch is in full swing. We gaze down and watch the slow ferry from Naples disgorge its contents – cars, vans and small lorries – on to the quay, a spit of drab concrete in an otherwise pellucid sea. But it soon departs, and all is quiet once more, save for the clink of ice on glass, and the clatter of knife and fork. Everything moves slowly here, a life lived in thrall to the island's ancient rhythm. This is the land of volcanoes and obsidian, of Odysseus and Aeolus, of capers, swordfish and pungent wild herbs. We order wine – crisp, white and cool, the grapes grown on the lushly fertile slopes of Mount Etna – and eat raw grouper, sliced tracing-paper thin, mixed with shavings of parmesan and slivers of red onion. It may sound a little odd (fish! cheese!), but it's a dish of gentle elegance – a joyous symphony of the sweet, soft and salty. Tuna tartare is more robust, great chunks in various degrees of crimson, meaty but mellow, the acidity perfectly judged. There are pieces of celery and a handful of capers, all bathed in a slick of golden oil. When the raw ingredients are this fine there's little point in mucking them about. Spaghetti vongole next, the pasta tight and taut, a dash of pasta water added at the end to emulsify those juices into a sauce. A generous dusting of grated bottarga adds an extra blast of ocean depth. Frito misto arrives hot from the fryer, the squid wearing the very lightest of batters, the butterflied anchovies clad in a breadcrumb crust. Prawns, naked and fried for mere seconds, are incandescently fresh, delivered, like everything else, by the fisherman that morning. You will not eat better fish. Then coffee, joltingly strong, and a glass of local malvasia with homemade biscotti. We linger late into the afternoon, gazing out over the sea towards Lipari. Everything here is just right, seasoned with the exquisite ennui of nothing much to do. The afternoon ferry slides in, and out once more. The rest of the island sleeps.
Daily Mail
05-07-2025
- Daily Mail
‘Everything here is just right': TOM PARKER BOWLES has lunch on the small Aeolian Island of Salina
It's just after 1pm on the small Aeolian Island of Salina, and not much is happening at all. A few tourists wander through the harbour, oblivious to the searing sun, while the locals, with one last cigarette and a final titbit of gossip, shut up shop in readiness for the siesta ahead. At Porto Bello, a small, elegant restaurant above the harbour, lunch is in full swing. We gaze down and watch the slow ferry from Naples disgorge its contents – cars, vans and small lorries – on to the quay, a spit of drab concrete in an otherwise pellucid sea. But it soon departs, and all is quiet once more, save for the clink of ice on glass, and the clatter of knife and fork. Everything moves slowly here, a life lived in thrall to the island's ancient rhythm. This is the land of volcanoes and obsidian, of Odysseus and Aeolus, of capers, swordfish and pungent wild herbs. We order wine – crisp, white and cool, the grapes grown on the lushly fertile slopes of Mount Etna – and eat raw grouper, sliced tracing-paper thin, mixed with shavings of parmesan and slivers of red onion. It may sound a little odd (fish! cheese!), but it's a dish of gentle elegance – a joyous symphony of the sweet, soft and salty. Tuna tartare is more robust, great chunks in various degrees of crimson, meaty but mellow, the acidity perfectly judged. There are pieces of celery and a handful of capers, all bathed in a slick of golden oil. When the raw ingredients are this fine there's little point in mucking them about. Spaghetti vongole next, the pasta tight and taut, a dash of pasta water added at the end to emulsify those juices into a sauce. A generous dusting of grated bottarga adds an extra blast of ocean depth. Frito misto arrives hot from the fryer, the squid wearing the very lightest of batters, the butterflied anchovies clad in a breadcrumb crust. Prawns, naked and fried for mere seconds, are incandescently fresh, delivered, like everything else, by the fisherman that morning. You will not eat better fish. Then coffee, joltingly strong, and a glass of local malvasia with homemade biscotti. We linger late into the afternoon, gazing out over the sea towards Lipari. Everything here is just right, seasoned with the exquisite ennui of nothing much to do. The afternoon ferry slides in, and out once more. The rest of the island sleeps.
Forbes
03-07-2025
- Forbes
Where To Eat Near Mount Etna, Picked By Tornatore's Winemaker
people dining and socialising outside in Sicily The villages on the slopes of Mount Etna are full of trattorias and wine bars where Sicilian cooking stays rooted in tradition while evolving with a new generation. Few people know these places better than Angelo di Grazia, winemaker at Tornatore Winery, one of the largest family-run estates on Etna's northern side. The Tornatore family has farmed this volcanic land near Castiglione di Sicilia since the 16th century, growing native grapes like Nerello Mascalese and Carricante across 60 hectares of dramatic terrain. Tornatore Winery Angelo, who trained in Piedmont and spent a decade with I Vigneri di Salvo Foti, now leads both the vineyards and cellar at Tornatore while also co-owning Meridio, a small natural wine project in Sicily. When he's not among the vines, you'll likely find him sitting down to a meal at one of these spots, with a local bottle or an Etna Bianco or Rosso on the table. Tornatore Winemaker Angelo Di Grazia Trattoria Linguagrossa (Linguaglossa) Trattoria Lingua Grossa This cozy trattoria is known for well-loved Sicilian classics served with genuine warmth. Angelo always orders the tartare di manzo, a simple raw beef dish that shows off the quality of local meat. Guests linger over house-made ricotta and wine, then stroll to the nearby Chiesa Madre 'S. Maria delle Grazie' for a view that seals the experience. Vitis Vineria (Randazzo) Vitis Exterior Tucked down a narrow alley, Vitis Vineria serves fresh, local flavors with big personality. Angelo goes for the spaghetti with yellow datterino tomatoes, fried zucchini, and salted ricotta, but the charcuterie, cheese board, and focaccia are also standouts. A rotating list of Etna wines makes it easy to try a bit of everything from the region. Boccaperta (Linguaglossa) Boccaperta is the kind of place winemakers return to again and again for creative dishes and spot-on wine pairings. Owner Rosario always has a bottle that surprises, especially in autumn when mushroom season makes Etna feel a bit like Piedmont. Angelo's go-to is the tagliolini with truffles, the perfect taste of the mountain's forest flavors. La Cantina di Monsignore (Castiglione di Sicilia) This welcoming spot feels like stepping back in time, with dishes rooted in local traditions. Angelo recommends ordering the chestnut-crusted rack of lamb, which showcases the flavors of the season in this part of Sicily. It's the kind of place where good food and old-world charm make you want to stay a while. 4 Archi (Milo) Pistachio Cream Ravioli This rustic osteria keeps everything local, sourcing directly from small producers and cooking only what's in season. Angelo's pick is the arancino stuffed with Aci cabbage, a humble bite that tastes like Etna's countryside. Between the wood-fired pizzas and the deep wine list, it's a place worth coming back to again and again. San Giorgio & Il Drago (Randazzo) This tiny spot on a quiet square in Randazzo keeps the focus on old-school Sicilian recipes done right. Angelo recommends the rich ossobuco, which pairs perfectly with a glass of Etna Rosso. Local cheeses, fresh pasta, and seasonal vegetables round out the menu under the watchful eye of mother Paolina. Il Veneziano di Parco Statella (Randazzo) Set at a rustic countryside hotel surrounded by Etna and the Nebrodi peaks, this restaurant feels like a peaceful hideaway. Angelo loves the wild mushroom soup here, especially when local fungi are in season. The Munforte family serves up a thoughtful tasting menu that celebrates Sicily's forest and farm flavors.
Telegraph
01-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Telegraph
The most luxurious hotels in Sicily
The HBO series White Lotus has certainly shone a spotlight on the luxury hotel life of Sicily, though you may – or indeed may not – be relieved to know that the reality is very different. Guests are better dressed, décor cooler (those gruesome passion-killing testa di moro ceramic heads are rarer ) and murders unlikely. Indeed Sicily has an extraordinary and original portfolio of luxury hotels, ranging from recently refurbished grand hotels like Villa Igiea in Palermo, and the San Domenico Palace in Taormina, where series two of The White Lotus was filmed, to hip-luxe retreats on small islands, on vineyards, on the slopes of Mount Etna and in the bijou Baroque town of Noto. Here are the best five-star hotels in Sicily. How we review Every hotel in this curated list has been visited by one of our expert reviewers, who are usually hosted on a complimentary basis. They stay for a minimum of one night, test at least one meal and trial other experiences that the hotel might have to offer. San Domenico Palace Taormina, Sicily, Italy 9 Telegraph expert rating Dating back to the 14th century, this magnificent former monastery, which has been a hotel since 1896, stands on the cliffs overlooking the Ionian Sea in Taormina, with Mount Etna to its right and the city's ancient Greek theatre to its left. Although Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts added a good dollop of 21st-century luxury when they took San Domenico over, redecorating the rooms in the 19th-century wing and adding private plunge pools to some of the terraces there, they have been careful to retain the many impressive historical elements, from the statue-filled courtyards to the stone doorway you enter through. The charm that enticed Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor, Greta Garbo and Humphrey Bogart among many other celebrities of their day, remains, as does the hotel's links to the screen – most recently as a setting for the Netflix series, The White Lotus. Q92 Noto, Sicily, Italy 9 Telegraph expert rating A sumptuous boutique hotel in the Baroque heart of Noto, with unparalleled views of one of the most extraordinary townscapes in Sicily. An elegant residence created as a feast for the eyes, where the 'common spaces' – including the elegant reception lounge – feel like rooms in a private home. Walls are deep Pompeiian red – a nod both to the favourite wall paint of the Romans and to the traditional grey, cream and oxblood encaustic tiles salvaged from the Aeolian islands and used throughout the hotel. There are just nine rooms, each different, ranging from spacious doubles to three huge master suites – all of these have balconies; one has an original Baroque frescoed ceiling. Friendly staff act like hosts rather than employees, and exude goodwill and enthusiasm, putting everyone at ease. Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea Taormina, Sicily, Italy 9 Telegraph expert rating Sant'Andrea is suffused with good, old-fashioned class and style, without ever being stuffy or outdated. Although a fairly sizeable hotel – it has 71 rooms – the feel is intimate and personal – think English country house by the Sicilian sea. The original 1919 villa forms the core of the hotel, with opulent – but never ostentatious – marble floors and staircases, while Baroque paintings and family heirlooms scattered around the light airy lounge, reception hall and bar act as conversation pieces rather than recreating a stately home atmosphere. The hotel runs a free hourly shuttle up to its sister hotel, the Timeo, in Taormina (below), making Sant'Andrea the ideal choice for anyone wanting to combine beach-time with sightseeing, shopping and dining in town. Seven Rooms Villadorata Noto, Sicily, Italy 9 Telegraph expert rating The term 'boutique hotel' may have lost its meaning, but Seven Rooms Villadorata is the real McCoy, a devastatingly gorgeous feast for the senses housed in a wing of the most extravagant Baroque palazzo in Sicily. The philosophy of Seven Rooms is to give guests everything they require within the privacy of their rooms – a thoughtfully stocked mini bar, artisan teas and kettle, Nespresso machine – while the spacious bathrooms, with a plethora of Villadorata's own range of body products made from natural Sicilian ingredients, make a long bath as relaxing as a spa treatment. Expect high ceilings, soaring windows with white shutter doors and heavy linen curtains, original encaustic tiled floors, and on your supremely comfortable beds, delicately puckered white silk quilts and blue alpaca throws. Monaci delle Terre Nere Zafferana Etnea, Sicily, Italy 9 Telegraph expert rating Halfway between Taormina and Catania, high up on the eastern skirts of Etna, where ancient bush-trained vines spring out of the dark, lava-rich soil on dry stone terraces sits this country hotel. The mood is adventurous barefoot eco-chic, with the looming volcano conferring a special energy. Much of the food served at breakfast or dinner in the handsome, artsy in-house restaurant, Locanda Nerello, is grown right on the estate, and the part that isn't is carefully sourced from smaller, mostly organic producers. Owner Coffa is an authority on the upcoming Etna wine scene and the estate now has its own 15-acre winery, with tastings of its own production and other Sicilian wines led by two in-house sommeliers. Capofaro Locanda & Malvasia Salina, Sicily, Italy 9 Telegraph expert rating This is a sophisticated Aeolian island retreat, with a design that makes it virtually indistinguishable from the rest of the island's smattering of villages. Its 27 rooms are all in individual, Aeolian-style whitewashed houses – simple, single-storey cuboids, each with its own terrace – scattered around the wine estate, and in the just-restored lighthouse (Faro) that gives the hotel its name. Architecture, landscape and unfailingly discreet service combine to create a place where guests truly can take time out from the world. As well as the freshwater pool, there is a massage pavilion, a padel-tennis court and a clubhouse. Chef Ludovico de Vivo applies eclectic creativity to both Sicilian and international traditions, with a fierce loyalty to local produce (including home-grown vegetables and salads from a garden above the pool, and Tasca d'Almerita's own olive oil). Donna Carmela Sicily, Italy 9 Telegraph expert rating Lying between Mount Etna and the sea – and with glimpses of both – what really makes this place special is the feeling of being far away from the world, fully immersed in an exotic paradise. Rooms with plunge pools occupying spacious individual bungalows hidden within the subtropical gardens may make you think you are in Bali – yet the hotel is just an easy drive from Catania airport. The 'eco lodges' (bungalows) are huge, softly lit and minimalist, with sliding glass doors opening onto a greenery-shaded terrace. Rooms in the main house bring a minimalist touch to more traditional spaces, featuring natural stone, white tiles and shades of cream and pale green. Most have some private outdoor space, while the 'Jacuzzi Exclusive' suite has a terrace (with plunge pool) and views of the sea and Mount Etna. Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo Taormina, Sicily, Italy 8 Telegraph expert rating Taormina may be overrun with tourists in high season, but there's no denying how picturesque it is, and the Timeo stands only a few minutes' walk from the main drag and right next to the entrance to the magnificent third-century BC Greek amphitheatre, making it one of the best luxury hotels in Sicily. The Timeo started life in 1873 as a five-room guest house occupying what is today the main building of the hotel, and was popular with artists, writers and European aristocracy. Belmond acquired the hotel in 2010 bringing their super-high service standards with them; from the porter who takes your luggage on arrival to the front desk staff, everyone is reassuringly charming and courteous. There is a spa and a heated pool set in the lovely gardens and plenty of terrace space, plus sitting rooms with huge windows from which to enjoy the magical views. Villa Igiea Palermo, Sicily, Italy 9 Telegraph expert rating Returned to its former splendour by family-run Rocco Forte Hotels, this Art Nouveau palazzo, originally designed by Ernesto Basile for the rich Florio family, overlooks the Gulf of Palermo. It offers 78 rooms and suites, two restaurants which showcase Sicily's rich cuisine, a spa and a pool. Much of the hotel spills out onto terraces above the gardens where the Igiea Terrazza Bar offers a perfect spot for a martini and both the pool restaurant and the main restaurant offer al fresco dining. The painted walls of the Basile Room, meanwhile, are not to be missed. The concierge team have created a series of itineraries which will take guests to any of Palermo's eight Unesco heritage sites or through the vibrant markets to buy ingredients for a cooking lesson. Frequently asked questions Where was The White Lotus filmed? The second series of The White Lotus was filmed in and around the north east-coast of Sicily. The Four Seasons hotel named San Domenico Palace was where most of the story took place – and is the location of the fictious 'White Lotus' hotel that the series is named after. Can you stay at the White Lotus hotel? The White Lotus is not a real hotel, but you can of course stay at San Domenico Palace, you will however need a substantial budget as, like the show suggests, it is the type of place high-end travellers book for luxury holidays (with a starting room rate from around £1,000 a night).
