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The Age
2 days ago
- The Age
It's the world's second-largest country and its two coasts are vastly different
Italy has it. So does England, and China, and the United States. It's that marked divide between north and south, common in countries right around the world. Canada, however, does it differently. Its divide is between east and west, between the provinces flanking the Pacific and those washed by the Atlantic Ocean. Many Australians know western Canada well, not least because this is where flights from Australia land. But the other half of the country is just as packed with compelling attractions. Where western Canada has verdant rainforest, the wild-west vibe of Calgary and the epic landscapes of the Yukon, eastern Canada has the charms of Nova Scotia, the incredible hikes of Newfoundland and the French flair of Montreal. One thing is clear: compare the travel offerings of the two halves, and it's more than a fair fight. GO WEST: Vancouver, British Columbia Vancouver regularly hovers near the top of those 'most liveable cities' lists, despite a tendency to wet weather, and it's a fair call. The city is rich in green spaces – apart from the 400-hectare Stanley Park (larger than New York's Central Park), the VanDusen Botanical Garden and Queen Elizabeth Park, home to the Bloedel Conservatory, are also lovely. The food scene is one of Canada's most vibrant: you can wander from one great meal to another in walkable neighbourhoods like Chinatown and Gastown, while Granville Island has a lively public market and plenty of galleries, theatres and boutiques. Craft brew lovers will make a beeline for the Shipyards District, while the Museum of Anthropology has an amazing display of First Nations sculptures, artefacts and totem poles. For a truly breathtaking experience, the Capilano Suspension Bridge, which stretches 70 metres above a dramatic canyon, is hard to beat. See GO EAST: Montreal, Quebec As a year-round destination, Montreal is hard to beat. As you might expect given its island setting, Montreal is a terrific summer city, with restaurants unveiling sun-drenched terraces and locals kicking back in sprawling parks like the soaring Mount Royal or the waterfront Parc Jean-Drapeau. Winter's snowfalls are beautifully atmospheric, and the subterranean network known as the Underground City lets you move around town without exposing yourself to the harsh elements. Whatever time of year you come, the city's diverse neighbourhoods offer plenty of delights, from the blue-stone streets of Old Montreal to the hipster hang of the Plateau. One of North America's great dining cities, Montreal has glorious food markets as well as restaurants such as Mon Lapin, Park and Normand Laprise's Toque still going strong after more than 30 years. The city's astonishing roster of festivals means there's always something new to see, from the famous Montreal Jazz Festival to the riotous Just for Laughs. See OUR CHOICE: While we do love Vancouver (and who doesn't?), Montreal's French flair, and the way it makes the most of every season, are pure gold. GO WEST: The Yukon The Yukon is all about vast, wild landscapes. Canada's western-most territory, sitting right next to Alaska, is almost as large as Spain but has less than 50,000 inhabitants, so there are plenty of wide open expanses to be awed by. Allow at least a week to complete one of the territory's signature road trips such as the stunning Klondike Kluane Loop or the Alaska Highway, which take you past rolling forests, jade-coloured lakes, and some of Canada's tallest mountains. Hop aboard one of the territory's fleet of small planes to view some of the largest non-polar icefields in the world, home to more than 2000 glaciers. But wait, there's more. Spending some time with some of the Yukon's 14 First Nations groups is eye-opening, and you will also want to tick off lively hubs such as the riverfront capital, Whitehorse, and the former Gold Rush boom town, Dawson City. See GO EAST: New Brunswick It may be one of Canada's most compact provinces, but New Brunswick makes a big impression. Start in the Bay of Fundy, where the largest tides in the world surge up to 16 metres. At Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park you can walk amid the sea stacks at low tide and then kayak around them at high tide. July to September is whale-watching season, with 12 different species of whales frequently spotted. And that's just the start. The province has more than 5000 kilometres of coastline studded with hiking trails, charming villages and some of the warmest saltwater beaches in Canada. Make time to explore islands such as Miscou, where the vast peat bogs turn a magnificent crimson colour in autumn, and be dazzled by the glittering starscapes in the New Brunswick's four Dark Sky Sites. Of course, there is plenty of delicious seafood to enjoy – lobster is a local specialty – and try some more culinary classics in the Acadian villages, places settled by the French in the 17th and 18th centuries that retain a unique culture. See OUR CHOICE: The Yukon is epic in every sense of the word, making it our winner. GO WEST: Victoria, British Columbia The compact city of Victoria on Vancouver Island is full of surprises, not least the fact that this – not Vancouver, as many assume – is actually British Columbia's capital. Something else people get wrong: despite its classic 19th-century architecture, Victoria is anything but staid. Wander through Fort Street, LoJo (Lower Johnson Street) and Canada's oldest Chinatown and you will find artisanal shops, local designers, funky cafes and galleries. Do as the locals do and hop on an e-bike – rental places abound – to explore converted rail trails like the 55-kilometre Galloping Goose Regional Trail, which winds past beautiful lakes as well as B.C's oldest pub, Six Mile Pub & Eatery. A few more for your list: the Malahat Skywalk, which takes you high into the forest canopy (take the quick route down on the helter-skelter slide); the lush 22-hectare Butchart Gardens; and Hatley Park National Historic Site, where you will find more gorgeous gardens and a castle that's been used as a location for hit movies including X-Men and Deadpool. See Cobblestone streets, old-school bistros, even what appears to be a castle on a hill: when you walk through the historic heart of Quebec City, it's easy to believe you have been transported to France. It may be a little disappointing to learn that that dominant castle-like building is actually a hotel, the Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac, but in every other way the 400-year-old Quebec City delivers. Start with a visit to the city's imposing fortifications – this is the only remaining walled city north of Mexico – then divide your time between the charming Old Port on the St Lawrence River and the clifftop Upper Town, which is where you'll find the scenic Quartier Petit Champlain with its boutiques, antique stores and restaurants. (If you can't tackle the steep staircases that connect the two, hop on the funicular instead.) Just out of town, lies Montmorency Falls – one and a half times higher than Niagara Falls – and the island of Orleans, where much of the city's food is farmed. See OUR CHOICE: Mais oui, Victoria is lovely, but Quebec City is simply irresistible. GO WEST: Whistler-Blackcomb, BC Up to 250,000 Aussies makes their way to Whistler-Blackcomb each year, most of them keen to hit the ski runs that criss-cross the resort's 3300 hectares of top-notch terrain. You don't have to be a keen skier or snowboarder to enjoy the winter action here, however. Whistler's dining and drinking options range from the oyster bar at Araxi to the ever-lively GLC lounge bar, while the local arts scene includes terrific galleries such as The Plaza Galleries and Fathom Stone Gallery, showcasing sculptures made of jade, alabaster and onyx. Ready to head outdoors? Take in the mesmerising view from above on the Peak 2 Peak Gondola, hit Bubly Tube Park (think tobogganing without the uphill slog), take it slow snowshoeing at Lost Lake Park or Whistler Olympic Park, or speed it up on one of the local ziplines. Warm up (then cool down) with some hot-and-cold hydrotherapy at Scandinave Spa, before heading out for an after-dark adventure at Vallea Lumina, a multi-media light show that transforms the landscape. See GO EAST: Ottawa, Ontario We're not casting shade on the joys of summer in Canada's capital, but winter is when Ottawa really shines. Strap on your ice skates and join locals on the world's largest rink, the Rideau Canal Skateway, that extends almost eight kilometres through downtown. Cross-country skiing is big: popular trails within the urban core include the Kichi Sibi Winter Trail and the Rideau Winter Trail, while the Greenbelt area has more than 150 kilometres of trails – all free, all of the time. If you prefer a downhill slope, top spots include Camp Fortune and Mont Cascades. The don't-miss destination is Gatineau Park, just 20 minutes from downtown, where you will find more than 200 kilometres of cross-country trails as well as options for snowshoeing, tobogganing, snow biking or hiking. If you have always wanted to try camping in the snow, the park also has winter tents, yurts and wood cabins available. For maximum fun, time your visit for the Winterlude festival, which unfurls over the first three weekends of February. See OUR CHOICE: Frigid weather fans won't be disappointed by either destination, but the Rideau Canal skateway gives Ottawa the edge. GO WEST: Great Bear Rainforest, BC When the salmon are running, it is time to head to the Great Bear Rainforest. Spanning more than six million hectares of the British Columbia coast, this old-growth forest is home to a healthy population of grizzly bears that are active in the summer months, fattening up for their winter hibernation. Several tours let you view the bears safely from the water – head out from small settlements such as Prince Rupert or Bella Coola. Alternatively, join an expedition cruise with an operator such as Maple Leaf Adventures, or book into one of the area's wilderness lodges. See GO EAST: Churchill, Manitoba Some might quibble that we're stretching the definition of east, but no-one will dispute that heading out from Churchill to view polar bears in their natural environment is one of the great wildlife experiences. Polar bears – mighty predators that can weigh more than 600 kilograms – typically live solitary lives but every autumn hundreds of them gather on the shores of Hudson Bay, waiting for the ice to freeze. Several companies offer buggy adventures or for maximum immersion, book a stay at one of the Churchill Wild lodges and explore on foot – accompanied by a wildlife expert to ensure your safety, of course. See GO WEST: Vancouver Island, BC Vancouver Island is a world of its own, even though it is just a four-hour ferry ride from the city of Vancouver (or half that time by plane.) Every part of the island has its own character, from the charming capital, Victoria, to the island's wild north, where you may spot whales and bears. The area's First Nations cultures are thriving: the U'mista Cultural Centre, showcasing the Kwakwa̱ka̱ʼwakw culture, is a great place to start. For a different vibe head to Tofino, a laidback surf town on the west coast that is also a great place for storm watching. And if you're here in winter you can even take to the slopes in the Comox Valley, which also offers year-round golf and crystal-clear scuba diving. Or go underground at Home Lake Caves which are open all year round, the subterranean temperature sticking to a reliable eight degrees. See GO EAST: Newfoundland Ever seen the heartwarming musical Come from Away, about the mostly American airline passengers stranded in Newfoundland on 9/11? It tells you something about the warm welcome you can expect on this island, where just half a million people are spread out across 100,000 square kilometres. Newfoundland is famous for iceberg spotting in spring and for its extraordinary landscapes: at the World Heritage-listed Gros Morne National Park, the dramatic geological forms include an ancient sea floor and the startling red of the exposed mantle of the Earth. More natural wonders are on show at Cape St Mary's Ecological Reserve and Witless Bay Ecological Reserve, where you can marvel at tens of thousands of birds such as gannets, kittiwakes, storm petrels and puffins. And of course colourful St. John's, the oldest and most easterly city in Canada, is another must-visit. See OUR CHOICE: The natural diversity of Vancouver Island, and the ease of access, is hard to beat. GO WEST: Calgary, Alberta Here's the thing people get wrong about Calgary. They know that the biggest annual event here is the Calgary Stampede, and they assume this former cattle-ranching capital is still all about rodeos. There is actually a lot more to the Stampede than bucking broncos – including music, theatre and art, for starters – and there's a lot more to Calgary too. This is a city with over 100 pieces of public art, and beautiful parklands ranging from Prince's Island Park in the middle of the Bow River to the wonderfully wild Nose Hill Park that stretches over 11 square kilometres. You can also time travel in the 51-hectare Heritage Park Historical Village, or get into the groove in Inglewood's Music Mile, lined with 20 different music venues. Still want more? Get your Jurassic Park fix on at the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Dinosaur Provincial Park, 2.5 hours out of town, the world's single biggest source of Cretaceous fossils – around 300 all up. See GO EAST: Halifax, Nova Scotia Nova Scotia's capital Halifax is a city shaped by the ocean. For years this North Atlantic port city was home to fishermen and shipbuilders, and even today its relationship with the ocean remains its defining feature. Take a stroll along the city's four-kilometre waterfront boardwalk, lined with restaurants, galleries and shops, and you'll see what we mean. There is plenty more to explore in downtown Halifax including the star-shaped Citadel, from which the noon gun still fires daily, and lively Argyle Street, where you can graze on some of the city's best food and sample the local craft beer. The Maritime Museum of the Atlantic is the place to dive deep into local history, which includes a role in the Titanic tragedy. The recovered bodies of victims were brought here; you can see their graves in the Fairview Lawn Cemetery. Don't forget to sample Halifax's favourite food, the donair, the local take on the Turkish doner kebab. See OUR CHOICE: It's hard to choose between these two, but we're giving it to Halifax because it's so underrated. GO WEST: West Coast Trail The West Coast Trail, winding its way through the wilderness of Vancouver Island, is a bucket-list trek for many hardcore hikers. There's nothing easy about this 75-kilometre trail: expect to struggle through deep mud, cross fast-flowing rivers, and scramble up and down more than 100 ladder systems, all while carrying a heavy backpack laden with all your gear. And did we mention the frequent rain and heavy wind? Despite all that, enough people sign up that you will need to book well in advance. What makes it so popular? The trail, following the paths and paddling routes used by the area's First Nations, is a chance to immerse yourself in the island's ancient temperate rainforest. Don't expect any luxuries, apart from the Crabshack at Nitinaht Narrows, where you can enjoy a fresh seafood meal. And allow at least five nights to complete the trail, more if you are not at match fitness. See GO EAST: East Coast Trail Puffins, lighthouses, icebergs and endless ocean views are all part of East Coast Trail, a series of 26 paths along Newfoundland's Avalon Peninsula that can done as shorter walks or – if you have the stamina and the time - a mammoth adventure totalling 300 kilometres. For an easy taster, try the 16-kilometre stretch between Witless Bay and The Cribbies, which takes in seabird nesting sites and a popular humpback feeding ground before finishing in the Tors Cove community with its cheerily painted houses. Other highlights include the Spurwink Island Path, with its massive sea arch at Berry Head, and the 12-kilometre Quidi Vidi Loop – technically not part of the trail but still notable for its beauty as well as for the chance to drink Iceberg beer, made with 20,000-year-old iceberg water, at the microbrewery in the fishing village of Quidi Vidi. If you want to get stuck into longer sections, a guided trip with the likes of World Expeditions is a good option. See OUR CHOICE: Given that only the hardiest will tackle the western route, the East Coast Trail is the clear winner. THE BEST OF CANADA'S NORTH Be entranced by the Northern Lights The Northern Lights are on display about 240 nights a year in the Northwest Territories and the capital of Yellowknife is a great place to see the heavens light up in extraordinary reds, blues and greens. See Paddle an Arctic fjord Kayak amid glaciers watching for whales and seals in Oliver Sound, part of Nunavut's stunning Sirmilik National Park. Several tours operate during the summer months. See Hit the (ice) road Between December and April, driving along roads of ice several metres thick is the best way to get from one far northern community to another. Join a tour to experience this incredible sensation for yourself. See Cruise among the Inuit Ride the rapids in Nahanni
Sydney Morning Herald
3 days ago
- Sydney Morning Herald
It's the world's second-largest country and its two coasts are vastly different
Italy has it. So does England, and China, and the United States. It's that marked divide between north and south, common in countries right around the world. Canada, however, does it differently. Its divide is between east and west, between the provinces flanking the Pacific and those washed by the Atlantic Ocean. Many Australians know western Canada well, not least because this is where flights from Australia land. But the other half of the country is just as packed with compelling attractions. Where western Canada has verdant rainforest, the wild-west vibe of Calgary and the epic landscapes of the Yukon, eastern Canada has the charms of Nova Scotia, the incredible hikes of Newfoundland and the French flair of Montreal. One thing is clear: compare the travel offerings of the two halves, and it's more than a fair fight. GO WEST: Vancouver, British Columbia Vancouver regularly hovers near the top of those 'most liveable cities' lists, despite a tendency to wet weather, and it's a fair call. The city is rich in green spaces – apart from the 400-hectare Stanley Park (larger than New York's Central Park), the VanDusen Botanical Garden and Queen Elizabeth Park, home to the Bloedel Conservatory, are also lovely. The food scene is one of Canada's most vibrant: you can wander from one great meal to another in walkable neighbourhoods like Chinatown and Gastown, while Granville Island has a lively public market and plenty of galleries, theatres and boutiques. Craft brew lovers will make a beeline for the Shipyards District, while the Museum of Anthropology has an amazing display of First Nations sculptures, artefacts and totem poles. For a truly breathtaking experience, the Capilano Suspension Bridge, which stretches 70 metres above a dramatic canyon, is hard to beat. See GO EAST: Montreal, Quebec As a year-round destination, Montreal is hard to beat. As you might expect given its island setting, Montreal is a terrific summer city, with restaurants unveiling sun-drenched terraces and locals kicking back in sprawling parks like the soaring Mount Royal or the waterfront Parc Jean-Drapeau. Winter's snowfalls are beautifully atmospheric, and the subterranean network known as the Underground City lets you move around town without exposing yourself to the harsh elements. Whatever time of year you come, the city's diverse neighbourhoods offer plenty of delights, from the blue-stone streets of Old Montreal to the hipster hang of the Plateau. One of North America's great dining cities, Montreal has glorious food markets as well as restaurants such as Mon Lapin, Park and Normand Laprise's Toque still going strong after more than 30 years. The city's astonishing roster of festivals means there's always something new to see, from the famous Montreal Jazz Festival to the riotous Just for Laughs. See OUR CHOICE: While we do love Vancouver (and who doesn't?), Montreal's French flair, and the way it makes the most of every season, are pure gold. GO WEST: The Yukon The Yukon is all about vast, wild landscapes. Canada's western-most territory, sitting right next to Alaska, is almost as large as Spain but has less than 50,000 inhabitants, so there are plenty of wide open expanses to be awed by. Allow at least a week to complete one of the territory's signature road trips such as the stunning Klondike Kluane Loop or the Alaska Highway, which take you past rolling forests, jade-coloured lakes, and some of Canada's tallest mountains. Hop aboard one of the territory's fleet of small planes to view some of the largest non-polar icefields in the world, home to more than 2000 glaciers. But wait, there's more. Spending some time with some of the Yukon's 14 First Nations groups is eye-opening, and you will also want to tick off lively hubs such as the riverfront capital, Whitehorse, and the former Gold Rush boom town, Dawson City. See GO EAST: New Brunswick It may be one of Canada's most compact provinces, but New Brunswick makes a big impression. Start in the Bay of Fundy, where the largest tides in the world surge up to 16 metres. At Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park you can walk amid the sea stacks at low tide and then kayak around them at high tide. July to September is whale-watching season, with 12 different species of whales frequently spotted. And that's just the start. The province has more than 5000 kilometres of coastline studded with hiking trails, charming villages and some of the warmest saltwater beaches in Canada. Make time to explore islands such as Miscou, where the vast peat bogs turn a magnificent crimson colour in autumn, and be dazzled by the glittering starscapes in the New Brunswick's four Dark Sky Sites. Of course, there is plenty of delicious seafood to enjoy – lobster is a local specialty – and try some more culinary classics in the Acadian villages, places settled by the French in the 17th and 18th centuries that retain a unique culture. See OUR CHOICE: The Yukon is epic in every sense of the word, making it our winner. GO WEST: Victoria, British Columbia The compact city of Victoria on Vancouver Island is full of surprises, not least the fact that this – not Vancouver, as many assume – is actually British Columbia's capital. Something else people get wrong: despite its classic 19th-century architecture, Victoria is anything but staid. Wander through Fort Street, LoJo (Lower Johnson Street) and Canada's oldest Chinatown and you will find artisanal shops, local designers, funky cafes and galleries. Do as the locals do and hop on an e-bike – rental places abound – to explore converted rail trails like the 55-kilometre Galloping Goose Regional Trail, which winds past beautiful lakes as well as B.C's oldest pub, Six Mile Pub & Eatery. A few more for your list: the Malahat Skywalk, which takes you high into the forest canopy (take the quick route down on the helter-skelter slide); the lush 22-hectare Butchart Gardens; and Hatley Park National Historic Site, where you will find more gorgeous gardens and a castle that's been used as a location for hit movies including X-Men and Deadpool. See GO EAST: Quebec City, Quebec Cobblestone streets, old-school bistros, even what appears to be a castle on a hill: when you walk through the historic heart of Quebec City, it's easy to believe you have been transported to France. It may be a little disappointing to learn that that dominant castle-like building is actually a hotel, the Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac, but in every other way the 400-year-old Quebec City delivers. Start with a visit to the city's imposing fortifications – this is the only remaining walled city north of Mexico – then divide your time between the charming Old Port on the St Lawrence River and the clifftop Upper Town, which is where you'll find the scenic Quartier Petit Champlain with its boutiques, antique stores and restaurants. (If you can't tackle the steep staircases that connect the two, hop on the funicular instead.) Just out of town, lies Montmorency Falls – one and a half times higher than Niagara Falls – and the island of Orleans, where much of the city's food is farmed. See OUR CHOICE: Mais oui, Victoria is lovely, but Quebec City is simply irresistible. GO WEST: Whistler-Blackcomb, BC Up to 250,000 Aussies makes their way to Whistler-Blackcomb each year, most of them keen to hit the ski runs that criss-cross the resort's 3300 hectares of top-notch terrain. You don't have to be a keen skier or snowboarder to enjoy the winter action here, however. Whistler's dining and drinking options range from the oyster bar at Araxi to the ever-lively GLC lounge bar, while the local arts scene includes terrific galleries such as The Plaza Galleries and Fathom Stone Gallery, showcasing sculptures made of jade, alabaster and onyx. Ready to head outdoors? Take in the mesmerising view from above on the Peak 2 Peak Gondola, hit Bubly Tube Park (think tobogganing without the uphill slog), take it slow snowshoeing at Lost Lake Park or Whistler Olympic Park, or speed it up on one of the local ziplines. Warm up (then cool down) with some hot-and-cold hydrotherapy at Scandinave Spa, before heading out for an after-dark adventure at Vallea Lumina, a multi-media light show that transforms the landscape. See GO EAST: Ottawa, Ontario We're not casting shade on the joys of summer in Canada's capital, but winter is when Ottawa really shines. Strap on your ice skates and join locals on the world's largest rink, the Rideau Canal Skateway, that extends almost eight kilometres through downtown. Cross-country skiing is big: popular trails within the urban core include the Kichi Sibi Winter Trail and the Rideau Winter Trail, while the Greenbelt area has more than 150 kilometres of trails – all free, all of the time. If you prefer a downhill slope, top spots include Camp Fortune and Mont Cascades. The don't-miss destination is Gatineau Park, just 20 minutes from downtown, where you will find more than 200 kilometres of cross-country trails as well as options for snowshoeing, tobogganing, snow biking or hiking. If you have always wanted to try camping in the snow, the park also has winter tents, yurts and wood cabins available. For maximum fun, time your visit for the Winterlude festival, which unfurls over the first three weekends of February. See OUR CHOICE: Frigid weather fans won't be disappointed by either destination, but the Rideau Canal skateway gives Ottawa the edge. GO WEST: Great Bear Rainforest, BC When the salmon are running, it is time to head to the Great Bear Rainforest. Spanning more than six million hectares of the British Columbia coast, this old-growth forest is home to a healthy population of grizzly bears that are active in the summer months, fattening up for their winter hibernation. Several tours let you view the bears safely from the water – head out from small settlements such as Prince Rupert or Bella Coola. Alternatively, join an expedition cruise with an operator such as Maple Leaf Adventures, or book into one of the area's wilderness lodges. See GO EAST: Churchill, Manitoba Some might quibble that we're stretching the definition of east, but no-one will dispute that heading out from Churchill to view polar bears in their natural environment is one of the great wildlife experiences. Polar bears – mighty predators that can weigh more than 600 kilograms – typically live solitary lives but every autumn hundreds of them gather on the shores of Hudson Bay, waiting for the ice to freeze. Several companies offer buggy adventures or for maximum immersion, book a stay at one of the Churchill Wild lodges and explore on foot – accompanied by a wildlife expert to ensure your safety, of course. See OUR CHOICE: Grizzlies v polar bears? That's not a fight we're going to get in the middle of. Call this one a draw. GO WEST: Vancouver Island, BC Vancouver Island is a world of its own, even though it is just a four-hour ferry ride from the city of Vancouver (or half that time by plane.) Every part of the island has its own character, from the charming capital, Victoria, to the island's wild north, where you may spot whales and bears. The area's First Nations cultures are thriving: the U'mista Cultural Centre, showcasing the Kwakwa̱ka̱ʼwakw culture, is a great place to start. For a different vibe head to Tofino, a laidback surf town on the west coast that is also a great place for storm watching. And if you're here in winter you can even take to the slopes in the Comox Valley, which also offers year-round golf and crystal-clear scuba diving. Or go underground at Home Lake Caves which are open all year round, the subterranean temperature sticking to a reliable eight degrees. See GO EAST: Newfoundland Ever seen the heartwarming musical Come from Away, about the mostly American airline passengers stranded in Newfoundland on 9/11? It tells you something about the warm welcome you can expect on this island, where just half a million people are spread out across 100,000 square kilometres. Newfoundland is famous for iceberg spotting in spring and for its extraordinary landscapes: at the World Heritage-listed Gros Morne National Park, the dramatic geological forms include an ancient sea floor and the startling red of the exposed mantle of the Earth. More natural wonders are on show at Cape St Mary's Ecological Reserve and Witless Bay Ecological Reserve, where you can marvel at tens of thousands of birds such as gannets, kittiwakes, storm petrels and puffins. And of course colourful St. John's, the oldest and most easterly city in Canada, is another must-visit. See OUR CHOICE: The natural diversity of Vancouver Island, and the ease of access, is hard to beat. GO WEST: Calgary, Alberta Here's the thing people get wrong about Calgary. They know that the biggest annual event here is the Calgary Stampede, and they assume this former cattle-ranching capital is still all about rodeos. There is actually a lot more to the Stampede than bucking broncos – including music, theatre and art, for starters – and there's a lot more to Calgary too. This is a city with over 100 pieces of public art, and beautiful parklands ranging from Prince's Island Park in the middle of the Bow River to the wonderfully wild Nose Hill Park that stretches over 11 square kilometres. You can also time travel in the 51-hectare Heritage Park Historical Village, or get into the groove in Inglewood's Music Mile, lined with 20 different music venues. Still want more? Get your Jurassic Park fix on at the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Dinosaur Provincial Park, 2.5 hours out of town, the world's single biggest source of Cretaceous fossils – around 300 all up. See GO EAST: Halifax, Nova Scotia Nova Scotia's capital Halifax is a city shaped by the ocean. For years this North Atlantic port city was home to fishermen and shipbuilders, and even today its relationship with the ocean remains its defining feature. Take a stroll along the city's four-kilometre waterfront boardwalk, lined with restaurants, galleries and shops, and you'll see what we mean. There is plenty more to explore in downtown Halifax including the star-shaped Citadel, from which the noon gun still fires daily, and lively Argyle Street, where you can graze on some of the city's best food and sample the local craft beer. The Maritime Museum of the Atlantic is the place to dive deep into local history, which includes a role in the Titanic tragedy. The recovered bodies of victims were brought here; you can see their graves in the Fairview Lawn Cemetery. Don't forget to sample Halifax's favourite food, the donair, the local take on the Turkish doner kebab. See OUR CHOICE: It's hard to choose between these two, but we're giving it to Halifax because it's so underrated. GO WEST: West Coast Trail The West Coast Trail, winding its way through the wilderness of Vancouver Island, is a bucket-list trek for many hardcore hikers. There's nothing easy about this 75-kilometre trail: expect to struggle through deep mud, cross fast-flowing rivers, and scramble up and down more than 100 ladder systems, all while carrying a heavy backpack laden with all your gear. And did we mention the frequent rain and heavy wind? Despite all that, enough people sign up that you will need to book well in advance. What makes it so popular? The trail, following the paths and paddling routes used by the area's First Nations, is a chance to immerse yourself in the island's ancient temperate rainforest. Don't expect any luxuries, apart from the Crabshack at Nitinaht Narrows, where you can enjoy a fresh seafood meal. And allow at least five nights to complete the trail, more if you are not at match fitness. See GO EAST: East Coast Trail Puffins, lighthouses, icebergs and endless ocean views are all part of East Coast Trail, a series of 26 paths along Newfoundland's Avalon Peninsula that can done as shorter walks or – if you have the stamina and the time - a mammoth adventure totalling 300 kilometres. For an easy taster, try the 16-kilometre stretch between Witless Bay and The Cribbies, which takes in seabird nesting sites and a popular humpback feeding ground before finishing in the Tors Cove community with its cheerily painted houses. Other highlights include the Spurwink Island Path, with its massive sea arch at Berry Head, and the 12-kilometre Quidi Vidi Loop – technically not part of the trail but still notable for its beauty as well as for the chance to drink Iceberg beer, made with 20,000-year-old iceberg water, at the microbrewery in the fishing village of Quidi Vidi. If you want to get stuck into longer sections, a guided trip with the likes of World Expeditions is a good option. See OUR CHOICE: Given that only the hardiest will tackle the western route, the East Coast Trail is the clear winner. THE BEST OF CANADA'S NORTH Be entranced by the Northern Lights The Northern Lights are on display about 240 nights a year in the Northwest Territories and the capital of Yellowknife is a great place to see the heavens light up in extraordinary reds, blues and greens. See Paddle an Arctic fjord Loading Kayak amid glaciers watching for whales and seals in Oliver Sound, part of Nunavut's stunning Sirmilik National Park. Several tours operate during the summer months. See Hit the (ice) road Between December and April, driving along roads of ice several metres thick is the best way to get from one far northern community to another. Join a tour to experience this incredible sensation for yourself. See Cruise among the Inuit
Hamilton Spectator
20-07-2025
- General
- Hamilton Spectator
‘Truly amazing and really emotional': Historic mortuary poles returned to Tla'amin Nation after decades-long search
In late 2022, Drew Blaney was at the Museum of Anthropology (MOA) viewing some paddles and masks from his nation that were being held in the institution's basement. While he was walking around, the culture and heritage manager for Tla'amin Nation stumbled across two striking carved wooden figures — one depicting a man and the other depicting a woman holding her arms out, as if she was carrying a child. They looked familiar, so he immediately sent a text to his brother, Tiy'ap thote (Erik Blaney), who had been searching for two mortuary poles belonging to their community for nearly three decades. Blaney asked Tiy'ap thote — who was at a hockey game at the time — if he could send photos of the historic mortuary poles. After a few minutes of trying to find service, ''ding, ding, ding' all these photos started popping up on my phone,' Blaney said. 'I'm standing there looking at the photos of the poles on my phone and sure enough it's the same two mortuary poles that are standing there in the Museum of Anthropology.' In return, Blaney sent his brother a photo of the poles in front of him. Tiy'ap thote said when he saw a photo of the mortuary poles he had been searching for pop up on his phone 'I almost fell out of my seat.' The two mortuary poles — along with paddles, masks, and baskets — have now been returned to Tla'amin as part of a repatriation from MOA and the Museum of Vancouver. On June 21, National Indigenous Peoples Day, a ceremony was held in the nation to celebrate the return of the objects. Tla'amin is a self-governing nation located just north of 'Powell River' on the upper Sunshine Coast. The ceremony took place as part of a larger celebration for the opening of Ɂəms ʔayɛ (Our House), Tla'amin Nation's brand new cultural centre, located in the village of Tł'ihšosum. Ɂəms ʔayɛ is the first big house to be located in the Tla'amin's territory in over 107 years, since the previous big house was destroyed by a fire in 1918 . More than 400 people, many wearing traditional regalia, came together from Tla'amin, Homalco, Klahoose, and K'ómoks — known as the four sister nations — to mark the occasion through songs, dancing, drumming, the repatriation ceremony, and a cedar braid cutting unveiling Ɂəms ʔayɛ. Ɂəms ʔayɛ will serve as the community's cultural space, spanning more than 1,390 square metres (15,000 square feet). The facility includes a feast hall, traditional foods facility, language lab, medicinal gardens, communal smokehouse, and museum to safekeep Tla'amins cultural belongings including the mortuary poles. Mortuary poles are made to mark the gravesite of someone who has passed. Tla'amin Nation believes that these particular poles were marking the grave of a family who passed away together. Before now, the only knowledge of the poles was through a photo taken on their original village site, tiskʷat, in the late 1800s. Tla'amin had been removed from the site , which became the 'Powell River' 'paper and pulp mill and later, Paper Catalyst Excellence. A large part of the physical search and research for these poles was done by Tiy'ap thote, who is a legislator for Tla'amin. He began looking for the two mortuary poles when he was 16 years old, after the late Elder Henry Bob told him a story about tiskʷat and the two poles. Tiy'ap thote said that Bob requested that he try to find the poles, and ever since he had been searching for them by researching the nation's archives and hiking through Tla'amin lands. His brother Blaney explained that over the years, Tla'amin had visited MOA many times, but never came to the realization that the poles were there until that visit in 2022. He believes that part of the reasoning is due to the poles being previously mislabeled as Stó:lō Nation poles. MOA's director and curator Susan Rowley explained the origins of the poles had 'always been a question,' because they were brought in as part of the Reverend George H. Raley collection after he passed away, and much of the documentation was lost. Raley was a former residential 'school' principal of the Coqualeetza Industrial School in 'Chilliwack,' according to the British Columbia Archival Information Network . After confirming the poles belonged to Tla'amin, the nation and MOA began the process of repatriation and bringing the poles, masks and paddles back home last spring. Tla'amin's plan was to house the poles and other items in Ɂəms ʔayɛ's museum space once complete. Rowley explained that because MOA is a part of University of British Columbia, this process is done in alignment with the university's guidelines and policies around repatriation to work with communities. Blaney said this year, on June 4 and 5, he along with some members of the nation — including council members and the hegus (chief) — had two small ceremonies at both MOA and MOV. They were joined by museum staff and a delegation from xʷməθkʷəy̓əm (Musqueam) Indian Band. 'We thought that was really important for us, because the poles have been standing in Musqueam territory for over 50 years,' said Blaney. 'Musqueam ancestors have been there, they've touched these poles … They shared their paddle song with us for a safe journey home for the mortuary poles.' In the end, the poles traveled home in a U-Haul. Blaney said they were strapped down to a wooden platform inside the vehicle to keep them safe. He took his brother Tiy'ap thote to see the poles first thing in the morning when they arrived home, which he described as an emotional moment. He said 'every step of this journey has been truly amazing.' 'You know, from seeing the photos as a young person, working for the treaty department in my teen years, doing the research on that. Then all the tiskʷat questions, seeing that photo come up many times,' Blaney said. 'And then fast forward to now, going to the museum, finding them, having them come home like every step of it has been truly amazing and really emotional.' Tiy'ap thote shared that bringing the poles back has been a significant time for the whole community. Last year, Tla'amin submitted a specific claim to the federal government for tiskʷat, at the same time they were in communications with Domtar (formerly, Catalyst Paper Excellence) to purchase back their original village and mill site. As of March 17, 2025 , the parties reached an agreement, and Tla'amin now owns most of tiskʷat. 'The journey home is obviously something that brings up a lot of emotion, since we're heavily involved in, you know, the land back portion of getting tiskʷat back,' he said. 'So the significance is huge in that everything seems to be coming back that we lost, and opportunities are now here. I mean, the timing is just unbelievable, really, to think that, you know, we lost these 130-140 years ago, and they're [tiskʷat and the mortuary poles] coming back just in the same year … It just feels like it's now full circle.' Now, as the nation celebrates Ɂəms ʔayɛ, tiskʷat, and the poles, Tiy'ap thote said the next big project he'd like to do is creating a 3D map of tiskʷat's village. 'I want to have a visual of what it would have looked like pre contact, and obviously taking pieces of our history, archives, records, and photos. I think this is the next step, or the next phase of that sort of project is; 'fan out. Let's get some summer students out into the museums and find more artifacts and build more of the story,'' said Tiy'ap thote. 'But let's also get in our people's mind what the village would have looked like back in the day, and start thinking about what life would have been like 1,000 years ago at tiskʷat.' For Blaney, he looks forward to the community and future generations having a space to practice culture and language. 'It's hard to put it into words, but there's just so many emotions in that [Ɂəms ʔayɛ opening] and there was about three or four times during the ceremony where I just looked up and I thought, wow, this is our home and that's exactly the name of it, Ɂəms ʔayɛ. It's our home.' He explained that over the years, nation members have traveled to many different communities during tribal canoe journeys. 'Being inside the big houses up and down the coast has always been something that we really wanted. So there's just so many emotions, it's hard to put into words,' he said. 'When I was younger, I remember there were plans for a big house in our village, and so it's been talked about for decades here.' On opening day, drumming and singing echoed through the village of Tł'ihšosum, as more people came together to celebrate the opening of Ɂəms ʔayɛ. During the songs, even an eagle flew by, calling out, then landing in a tree where the raptor stayed for the rest of Ɂəms ʔayɛ's ceremony — sparking emotion in the crowd. Blaney said being inside the building, seeing people fill the bleachers and the fire lit, was a powerful moment. 'There were a couple of moments where I had to pinch myself and remind myself that I'm actually home in Tišosem.' Error! Sorry, there was an error processing your request. There was a problem with the recaptcha. Please try again. You may unsubscribe at any time. By signing up, you agree to our terms of use and privacy policy . This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google privacy policy and terms of service apply. 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Vancouver Sun
16-05-2025
- Science
- Vancouver Sun
5 things to know about B.C.'s long-extinct Coast Salish Woolly Dog
Long gone from existence, the Coast Salish Woolly Dog is brought back to life in the pages of a new book: The Teachings of Mutton: A Coast Salish Woolly Dog. Rich with stories from Musqueam, Squamish, Stó:lō, Suquamish, Cowichan , Katzie, Snuneymuxw, and Skokomish cultures, the book highlights the story of the animal whose coat was used by Indigenous weavers to craft blankets and other woven items. Co-authored by Liz Hammond-Kaarremaa with weavers, knowledge keepers and elders, the book comes out May 25. Hammond-Kaarremaa, along with a number of Coast Salish contributors to the tome, will be doing readings at the VPL Central Branch on June 4 at 7 p.m. and the Museum of Anthropology on June 5 at 7 p.m. Get top headlines and gossip from the world of celebrity and entertainment. By signing up you consent to receive the above newsletter from Postmedia Network Inc. A welcome email is on its way. If you don't see it, please check your junk folder. The next issue of Sun Spots will soon be in your inbox. Please try again Interested in more newsletters? Browse here. What is a Coast Salish Woolly Dog? The Coast Salish Woolly Dog, or sqʷəmey̓ in the Hul'q'umi'num (a traditional Coast Salish language), was a small-to-medium-sized dog that was bred for its woolly fibres, which Indigenous weavers wove into traditional blankets, robes and regalia. The dogs lived throughout B.C. but mostly on Vancouver Island and the Puget Sound area of Washington state. How far back does the Coast Salish Woolly Dog go? Word in the scientific world is the dogs were developed as a breed before European contact in this part of the world. The oldest remains of the Coast Salish Woolly Dog were found in Puget Sound and the Strait of Georgia, and date from 4,000 years ago. Who is Mutton? In 2000, the pelt of a dog was discovered in a drawer at the Smithsonian in Washington, D.C. The pelt, it turns out, was from a Coast Salish Woolly Dog named Mutton and it had been donated to the institution in 1859 by ethnographer George Gibbs who worked on the Northwest Boundary Survey expedition (1857-61) that mapped the land between B.C. and the U.S. What is a modern breed that resembles the Coast Salish Woolly Dog? The Coast Salish Woolly Dog would have most resembled the modern-day Spitz breed. The two share a small-to-medium build, with thick ivory-white hair, pointed ears and a curly tail. What happened to the breed? Colonization happened and the dog population declined in the 19th century, and then pretty much disappeared by the early 1900s. A simplified answer to the decline was that during colonization sheep wool blankets were introduced and basically put the woolly dogs out of work. But scholars also say contributing to their extinction was the welfare of the caretakers of the dogs as things like disease, cultural disruption and displacement wreaked havoc on Indigenous communities.
Vancouver Sun
16-05-2025
- Science
- Vancouver Sun
5 things to know about the Coast Salish Woolly Dog
Long gone from existence, the Coast Salish Woolly Dog is brought back to life in the pages of a new book: The Teachings of Mutton: A Coast Salish Woolly Dog. Rich with stories from Musqueam, Squamish, Stó:lō, Suquamish, Cowichan , Katzie, Snuneymuxw, and Skokomish cultures, the book highlights the story of the animal whose coat was used by Indigenous weavers to craft blankets and other woven items. Co-authored by Liz Hammond-Kaarremaa with weavers, knowledge keepers and elders, the book comes out May 25. Hammond-Kaarremaa, along with a number of Coast Salish contributors to the tome, will be doing readings at the VPL Central Branch on June 4 at 7 p.m. and the Museum of Anthropology on June 5 at 7 p.m. Get top headlines and gossip from the world of celebrity and entertainment. By signing up you consent to receive the above newsletter from Postmedia Network Inc. A welcome email is on its way. If you don't see it, please check your junk folder. The next issue of Sun Spots will soon be in your inbox. Please try again Interested in more newsletters? Browse here. What is a Coast Salish Woolly Dog? The Coast Salish Woolly Dog, or sqʷəmey̓ in the Hul'q'umi'num (a traditional Coast Salish language), was a small-to-medium-sized dog that was bred for its woolly fibres, which Indigenous weavers wove into traditional blankets, robes and regalia. The dogs lived throughout B.C. but mostly on Vancouver Island and the Puget Sound area of Washington state. How far back does the Coast Salish Woolly Dog go? Word in the scientific world is the dogs were developed as a breed before European contact in this part of the world. The oldest remains of the Coast Salish Woolly Dog were found in Puget Sound and the Strait of Georgia, and date from 4,000 years ago. Who is Mutton? In 2000, the pelt of a dog was discovered in a drawer at the Smithsonian in Washington, D.C. The pelt, it turns out, was from a Coast Salish Woolly Dog named Mutton and it had been donated to the institution in 1859 by ethnographer George Gibbs who worked on the Northwest Boundary Survey expedition (1857-61) that mapped the land between B.C. and the U.S. What is a modern breed that resembles the Coast Salish Woolly Dog? The Coast Salish Woolly Dog would have most resembled the modern-day Spitz breed. The two share a small-to-medium build, with thick ivory-white hair, pointed ears and a curly tail. What happened to the breed? Colonization happened and the dog population declined in the 19th century, and then pretty much disappeared by the early 1900s. A simplified answer to the decline was that during colonization sheep wool blankets were introduced and basically put the woolly dogs out of work. But scholars also say contributing to their extinction was the welfare of the caretakers of the dogs as things like disease, cultural disruption and displacement wreaked havoc on Indigenous communities.
