It's the world's second-largest country and its two coasts are vastly different

Sydney Morning Herald

a day ago

Italy has it. So does England, and China, and the United States. It's that marked divide between north and south, common in countries right around the world.
Canada, however, does it differently. Its divide is between east and west, between the provinces flanking the Pacific and those washed by the Atlantic Ocean.
Many Australians know western Canada well, not least because this is where flights from Australia land. But the other half of the country is just as packed with compelling attractions.
Where western Canada has verdant rainforest, the wild-west vibe of Calgary and the epic landscapes of the Yukon, eastern Canada has the charms of Nova Scotia, the incredible hikes of Newfoundland and the French flair of Montreal.
One thing is clear: compare the travel offerings of the two halves, and it's more than a fair fight.
GO WEST: Vancouver, British Columbia
Vancouver regularly hovers near the top of those 'most liveable cities' lists, despite a tendency to wet weather, and it's a fair call. The city is rich in green spaces – apart from the 400-hectare Stanley Park (larger than New York's Central Park), the VanDusen Botanical Garden and Queen Elizabeth Park, home to the Bloedel Conservatory, are also lovely. The food scene is one of Canada's most vibrant: you can wander from one great meal to another in walkable neighbourhoods like Chinatown and Gastown, while Granville Island has a lively public market and plenty of galleries, theatres and boutiques. Craft brew lovers will make a beeline for the Shipyards District, while the Museum of Anthropology has an amazing display of First Nations sculptures, artefacts and totem poles. For a truly breathtaking experience, the Capilano Suspension Bridge, which stretches 70 metres above a dramatic canyon, is hard to beat. See destinationvancouver.com
GO EAST: Montreal, Quebec
As a year-round destination, Montreal is hard to beat. As you might expect given its island setting, Montreal is a terrific summer city, with restaurants unveiling sun-drenched terraces and locals kicking back in sprawling parks like the soaring Mount Royal or the waterfront Parc Jean-Drapeau. Winter's snowfalls are beautifully atmospheric, and the subterranean network known as the Underground City lets you move around town without exposing yourself to the harsh elements. Whatever time of year you come, the city's diverse neighbourhoods offer plenty of delights, from the blue-stone streets of Old Montreal to the hipster hang of the Plateau. One of North America's great dining cities, Montreal has glorious food markets as well as restaurants such as Mon Lapin, Park and Normand Laprise's Toque still going strong after more than 30 years. The city's astonishing roster of festivals means there's always something new to see, from the famous Montreal Jazz Festival to the riotous Just for Laughs. See mtl.org
OUR CHOICE: While we do love Vancouver (and who doesn't?), Montreal's French flair, and the way it makes the most of every season, are pure gold.
GO WEST: The Yukon
The Yukon is all about vast, wild landscapes. Canada's western-most territory, sitting right next to Alaska, is almost as large as Spain but has less than 50,000 inhabitants, so there are plenty of wide open expanses to be awed by. Allow at least a week to complete one of the territory's signature road trips such as the stunning Klondike Kluane Loop or the Alaska Highway, which take you past rolling forests, jade-coloured lakes, and some of Canada's tallest mountains. Hop aboard one of the territory's fleet of small planes to view some of the largest non-polar icefields in the world, home to more than 2000 glaciers. But wait, there's more. Spending some time with some of the Yukon's 14 First Nations groups is eye-opening, and you will also want to tick off lively hubs such as the riverfront capital, Whitehorse, and the former Gold Rush boom town, Dawson City. See travelyukon.com
GO EAST: New Brunswick
It may be one of Canada's most compact provinces, but New Brunswick makes a big impression. Start in the Bay of Fundy, where the largest tides in the world surge up to 16 metres. At Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park you can walk amid the sea stacks at low tide and then kayak around them at high tide. July to September is whale-watching season, with 12 different species of whales frequently spotted. And that's just the start. The province has more than 5000 kilometres of coastline studded with hiking trails, charming villages and some of the warmest saltwater beaches in Canada. Make time to explore islands such as Miscou, where the vast peat bogs turn a magnificent crimson colour in autumn, and be dazzled by the glittering starscapes in the New Brunswick's four Dark Sky Sites. Of course, there is plenty of delicious seafood to enjoy – lobster is a local specialty – and try some more culinary classics in the Acadian villages, places settled by the French in the 17th and 18th centuries that retain a unique culture. See tourismnewbrunswick.ca
OUR CHOICE: The Yukon is epic in every sense of the word, making it our winner.
GO WEST: Victoria, British Columbia
The compact city of Victoria on Vancouver Island is full of surprises, not least the fact that this – not Vancouver, as many assume – is actually British Columbia's capital. Something else people get wrong: despite its classic 19th-century architecture, Victoria is anything but staid. Wander through Fort Street, LoJo (Lower Johnson Street) and Canada's oldest Chinatown and you will find artisanal shops, local designers, funky cafes and galleries. Do as the locals do and hop on an e-bike – rental places abound – to explore converted rail trails like the 55-kilometre Galloping Goose Regional Trail, which winds past beautiful lakes as well as B.C's oldest pub, Six Mile Pub & Eatery. A few more for your list: the Malahat Skywalk, which takes you high into the forest canopy (take the quick route down on the helter-skelter slide); the lush 22-hectare Butchart Gardens; and Hatley Park National Historic Site, where you will find more gorgeous gardens and a castle that's been used as a location for hit movies including X-Men and Deadpool. See tourismvictoria.com
GO EAST: Quebec City, Quebec
Cobblestone streets, old-school bistros, even what appears to be a castle on a hill: when you walk through the historic heart of Quebec City, it's easy to believe you have been transported to France. It may be a little disappointing to learn that that dominant castle-like building is actually a hotel, the Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac, but in every other way the 400-year-old Quebec City delivers. Start with a visit to the city's imposing fortifications – this is the only remaining walled city north of Mexico – then divide your time between the charming Old Port on the St Lawrence River and the clifftop Upper Town, which is where you'll find the scenic Quartier Petit Champlain with its boutiques, antique stores and restaurants. (If you can't tackle the steep staircases that connect the two, hop on the funicular instead.) Just out of town, lies Montmorency Falls – one and a half times higher than Niagara Falls – and the island of Orleans, where much of the city's food is farmed. See quebec-cite.com
OUR CHOICE: Mais oui, Victoria is lovely, but Quebec City is simply irresistible.
GO WEST: Whistler-Blackcomb, BC
Up to 250,000 Aussies makes their way to Whistler-Blackcomb each year, most of them keen to hit the ski runs that criss-cross the resort's 3300 hectares of top-notch terrain. You don't have to be a keen skier or snowboarder to enjoy the winter action here, however. Whistler's dining and drinking options range from the oyster bar at Araxi to the ever-lively GLC lounge bar, while the local arts scene includes terrific galleries such as The Plaza Galleries and Fathom Stone Gallery, showcasing sculptures made of jade, alabaster and onyx. Ready to head outdoors? Take in the mesmerising view from above on the Peak 2 Peak Gondola, hit Bubly Tube Park (think tobogganing without the uphill slog), take it slow snowshoeing at Lost Lake Park or Whistler Olympic Park, or speed it up on one of the local ziplines. Warm up (then cool down) with some hot-and-cold hydrotherapy at Scandinave Spa, before heading out for an after-dark adventure at Vallea Lumina, a multi-media light show that transforms the landscape. See whistlerblackcomb.com
GO EAST: Ottawa, Ontario
We're not casting shade on the joys of summer in Canada's capital, but winter is when Ottawa really shines. Strap on your ice skates and join locals on the world's largest rink, the Rideau Canal Skateway, that extends almost eight kilometres through downtown. Cross-country skiing is big: popular trails within the urban core include the Kichi Sibi Winter Trail and the Rideau Winter Trail, while the Greenbelt area has more than 150 kilometres of trails – all free, all of the time. If you prefer a downhill slope, top spots include Camp Fortune and Mont Cascades. The don't-miss destination is Gatineau Park, just 20 minutes from downtown, where you will find more than 200 kilometres of cross-country trails as well as options for snowshoeing, tobogganing, snow biking or hiking. If you have always wanted to try camping in the snow, the park also has winter tents, yurts and wood cabins available. For maximum fun, time your visit for the Winterlude festival, which unfurls over the first three weekends of February. See ottawatourism.ca
OUR CHOICE: Frigid weather fans won't be disappointed by either destination, but the Rideau Canal skateway gives Ottawa the edge.
GO WEST: Great Bear Rainforest, BC
When the salmon are running, it is time to head to the Great Bear Rainforest. Spanning more than six million hectares of the British Columbia coast, this old-growth forest is home to a healthy population of grizzly bears that are active in the summer months, fattening up for their winter hibernation. Several tours let you view the bears safely from the water – head out from small settlements such as Prince Rupert or Bella Coola. Alternatively, join an expedition cruise with an operator such as Maple Leaf Adventures, or book into one of the area's wilderness lodges. See hellobc.com
GO EAST: Churchill, Manitoba
Some might quibble that we're stretching the definition of east, but no-one will dispute that heading out from Churchill to view polar bears in their natural environment is one of the great wildlife experiences. Polar bears – mighty predators that can weigh more than 600 kilograms – typically live solitary lives but every autumn hundreds of them gather on the shores of Hudson Bay, waiting for the ice to freeze. Several companies offer buggy adventures or for maximum immersion, book a stay at one of the Churchill Wild lodges and explore on foot – accompanied by a wildlife expert to ensure your safety, of course. See churchill.ca
OUR CHOICE: Grizzlies v polar bears? That's not a fight we're going to get in the middle of. Call this one a draw.
GO WEST: Vancouver Island, BC
Vancouver Island is a world of its own, even though it is just a four-hour ferry ride from the city of Vancouver (or half that time by plane.) Every part of the island has its own character, from the charming capital, Victoria, to the island's wild north, where you may spot whales and bears. The area's First Nations cultures are thriving: the U'mista Cultural Centre, showcasing the Kwakwa̱ka̱ʼwakw culture, is a great place to start. For a different vibe head to Tofino, a laidback surf town on the west coast that is also a great place for storm watching. And if you're here in winter you can even take to the slopes in the Comox Valley, which also offers year-round golf and crystal-clear scuba diving. Or go underground at Home Lake Caves which are open all year round, the subterranean temperature sticking to a reliable eight degrees. See vancouverisland.travel
GO EAST: Newfoundland
Ever seen the heartwarming musical Come from Away, about the mostly American airline passengers stranded in Newfoundland on 9/11? It tells you something about the warm welcome you can expect on this island, where just half a million people are spread out across 100,000 square kilometres. Newfoundland is famous for iceberg spotting in spring and for its extraordinary landscapes: at the World Heritage-listed Gros Morne National Park, the dramatic geological forms include an ancient sea floor and the startling red of the exposed mantle of the Earth. More natural wonders are on show at Cape St Mary's Ecological Reserve and Witless Bay Ecological Reserve, where you can marvel at tens of thousands of birds such as gannets, kittiwakes, storm petrels and puffins. And of course colourful St. John's, the oldest and most easterly city in Canada, is another must-visit. See newfoundlandlabrador.com
OUR CHOICE: The natural diversity of Vancouver Island, and the ease of access, is hard to beat.
GO WEST: Calgary, Alberta
Here's the thing people get wrong about Calgary. They know that the biggest annual event here is the Calgary Stampede, and they assume this former cattle-ranching capital is still all about rodeos. There is actually a lot more to the Stampede than bucking broncos – including music, theatre and art, for starters – and there's a lot more to Calgary too. This is a city with over 100 pieces of public art, and beautiful parklands ranging from Prince's Island Park in the middle of the Bow River to the wonderfully wild Nose Hill Park that stretches over 11 square kilometres. You can also time travel in the 51-hectare Heritage Park Historical Village, or get into the groove in Inglewood's Music Mile, lined with 20 different music venues. Still want more? Get your Jurassic Park fix on at the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Dinosaur Provincial Park, 2.5 hours out of town, the world's single biggest source of Cretaceous fossils – around 300 all up. See visitcalgary.com
GO EAST: Halifax, Nova Scotia
Nova Scotia's capital Halifax is a city shaped by the ocean. For years this North Atlantic port city was home to fishermen and shipbuilders, and even today its relationship with the ocean remains its defining feature. Take a stroll along the city's four-kilometre waterfront boardwalk, lined with restaurants, galleries and shops, and you'll see what we mean. There is plenty more to explore in downtown Halifax including the star-shaped Citadel, from which the noon gun still fires daily, and lively Argyle Street, where you can graze on some of the city's best food and sample the local craft beer. The Maritime Museum of the Atlantic is the place to dive deep into local history, which includes a role in the Titanic tragedy. The recovered bodies of victims were brought here; you can see their graves in the Fairview Lawn Cemetery. Don't forget to sample Halifax's favourite food, the donair, the local take on the Turkish doner kebab. See discoverhalifaxns.com
OUR CHOICE: It's hard to choose between these two, but we're giving it to Halifax because it's so underrated.
GO WEST: West Coast Trail
The West Coast Trail, winding its way through the wilderness of Vancouver Island, is a bucket-list trek for many hardcore hikers. There's nothing easy about this 75-kilometre trail: expect to struggle through deep mud, cross fast-flowing rivers, and scramble up and down more than 100 ladder systems, all while carrying a heavy backpack laden with all your gear. And did we mention the frequent rain and heavy wind? Despite all that, enough people sign up that you will need to book well in advance. What makes it so popular? The trail, following the paths and paddling routes used by the area's First Nations, is a chance to immerse yourself in the island's ancient temperate rainforest. Don't expect any luxuries, apart from the Crabshack at Nitinaht Narrows, where you can enjoy a fresh seafood meal. And allow at least five nights to complete the trail, more if you are not at match fitness. See parks.canada.ca
GO EAST: East Coast Trail
Puffins, lighthouses, icebergs and endless ocean views are all part of East Coast Trail, a series of 26 paths along Newfoundland's Avalon Peninsula that can done as shorter walks or – if you have the stamina and the time - a mammoth adventure totalling 300 kilometres. For an easy taster, try the 16-kilometre stretch between Witless Bay and The Cribbies, which takes in seabird nesting sites and a popular humpback feeding ground before finishing in the Tors Cove community with its cheerily painted houses. Other highlights include the Spurwink Island Path, with its massive sea arch at Berry Head, and the 12-kilometre Quidi Vidi Loop – technically not part of the trail but still notable for its beauty as well as for the chance to drink Iceberg beer, made with 20,000-year-old iceberg water, at the microbrewery in the fishing village of Quidi Vidi. If you want to get stuck into longer sections, a guided trip with the likes of World Expeditions is a good option. See eastcoasttrail.com
OUR CHOICE: Given that only the hardiest will tackle the western route, the East Coast Trail is the clear winner.
THE BEST OF CANADA'S NORTH
Be entranced by the Northern Lights
The Northern Lights are on display about 240 nights a year in the Northwest Territories and the capital of Yellowknife is a great place to see the heavens light up in extraordinary reds, blues and greens. See yellowknife.ca
Paddle an Arctic fjord
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Kayak amid glaciers watching for whales and seals in Oliver Sound, part of Nunavut's stunning Sirmilik National Park. Several tours operate during the summer months. See parks.canada.ca
Hit the (ice) road
Between December and April, driving along roads of ice several metres thick is the best way to get from one far northern community to another. Join a tour to experience this incredible sensation for yourself. See spectacularnwt.com
Cruise among the Inuit