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Fashion Value Chain
6 days ago
- General
- Fashion Value Chain
The Back-strap Renaissance: Reclaiming Northeast India's Loom Legacy
Ms. Mamatha G P K Associate Professor, Pearl Academy The textile and fashion industries are continually and overwhelmingly growing, at the same time the rate at which fast fashion consumption has increased is alarming. While trying to strike a balance amidst these fashion cycles, another challenge is restoring and reviving numerous traditional textiles, their techniques of production, and the embroideries of India. Our country has a vast and strong cultural heritage, where many of our products are GI-tagged to preserve their authenticity. The efforts to hold to traditional textiles bring out a lot of opportunities, like improving the standard of living for artisans and technicians involved in creating these fabrics, the economic development by widening the market, commodities catered to an international market and carving a niche in the global fashion sector. The handloom legacy of India's enriched part- the northeast has a vibrantly alive craft, as well as its cultural identity. Each tribal community has a list of their distinct techniques and motifs, which are passed on to generations, mainly women, only by word of mouth for more than 800 years. For example, Northeast has a total of over 200 documented tribes, and Tripura alone has 19 recognised tribes (The Sentinel). The backstrap or loin loom illustrated in Figure 1, a portable device anchored by the weaver's body, is central to many tribal practices in this region. It enables intricate patterns despite producing only 1–2 meters daily, far below typical handloom capacity (The Sentinel). The beauty of this art was limited to the women of the house, an evident matriarchal practice in the region. The interesting fact here was that women always weaved for themselves, and it was one of the essential skills to be eligible for marital alliances. However, this practice was not just limited to the commoners; even royal families chose their brides based on the most skilled weaver in the region. Fig 1: Backstrap/ loin loom Innovation & Sustainability in Handloom Practices Handloom Meets Tech DigiBunai CAD system empowers weavers to convert designs digitally onto looms ( NSN ). Microsoft's AI 'Ruuh' introduces trend-aware weaves to artisans, supporting contemporary market needs ( NSN ). Sustainable Silks & Natural Dyes Meghalaya's Eri ('Peace Silk') production is fully women-led and dyed using 33 native plants. Two GI tags awarded in 2025 are boosting its profile ( Wikipedia ). Lampas weaving, rooted in Assamese religious traditions, has been revived by NEHHDC, reconnecting artisans with centuries-old heritage ( ). Social Innovation & Digitisation NEHHDC's 2023 MoU with the UK's Tide platform is introducing AI/IoT and ERP for 800+ clusters, improving financial inclusion and scalability ( ). Digital platforms like Amazon Karigar and ONDC empower Gen Z-led brands (Eka, Anavila) to market globally ( Images Bof ). Social Impact & Employment Data The Fourth All-India Handloom Census (2019–20) shows 88.7% of weaving households located in rural areas; only 26% had all-weather roads ( Images Bof ). Across India, handloom employs ~26 lakh weavers (down from 43 lakh in 1995). In the Northeast, ~65% of operational looms are found there ( Ias Gyan ). Women constitute ~77% of workers overall; in the Northeast, they account for ~49%. Fig 2: Weaving by Women Table 1: Weaving in the Northeastern states Conservation of Backstrap Loom Weaving Technique longevity: Archaeological and ethnographic evidence in Nagaland, Manipur (dated from the Bronze Age to the contemporary) validates centuries-old usage ( MAP Academy ). Educational workshops: Initiatives like Exotic Echo's youth classes foster intergenerational transfer ( mint ). Designer collaborations: Contemporary fashion integrated with loin loom fabrics (e.g., Jenjum Gadi, Dimapur) have enhanced market relevance ( Vogue India ). Tilla- a design studio in Ahmedabad, put enormous effort into throwing light on the lost art of Risha and Rignai. Risha- commonly called the breast cloth, which was lost to modern silhouettes. Challenges & Realistic Suggestions Challenges Low productivity: Backstrap looms yield only ~2 m/day vs 7 m on regular handlooms ( Vogue India ). Infrastructure deficits: Vast rural clusters remain poorly connected (only 26% roads) ( Images Bof ). Market fragility: Consumers lack awareness of value; power looms dominate due to price sensitivity. Resource scarcity: Financial and raw material access remains inadequate ( Ias Gyan ). Solutions Cluster development: Build 1–2 integrated loom hubs with proper transport, power, AI-enabled design units like DigiBunai. Financial inclusion: Scale Tide-like initiatives; offer microcredit and direct subsidies for GI fabrics (Eri, Lampas). Skill & heritage education: Expand youth workshops tied to school curricula; support designer-artisan mentorships. Digital marketing: Boost SHGs' online presence via ONDC and Amazon Karigar; storytelling focuses on differentiating handmade goods ( NSN , , Images Bof ). Eco-certification & global branding: Promote GI, natural-dyeing, 'peace silk' narratives for premium export positioning. Conclusion Handloom in Northeast India weaves heritage with innovation—through backstrap looms, sustainability, and digital empowerment. While small-scale, labour-intensive, and rural, it carries immense cultural value and potential for ethical, eco-friendly markets. Focused infrastructure, institutional support, and global marketing can scale this centuries-old front row to mainstream, aligning tradition with tomorrow's demand.
India Gazette
29-06-2025
- General
- India Gazette
PM Modi highlights Meghalaya's Eri Silk in Mann Ki Baat, calls it 'Ahinsa Silk'
New Delhi [India], June 29 (ANI): Prime Minister Narendra Modi, in the 123rd episode of his monthly radio address Mann Ki Baat, lauded the traditional Eri Silk of Meghalaya, which has gained global recognition. PM Modi stated that the production process of Eri Silk does not involve killing silkworms, making it an ethical and eco-friendly alternative in the global textile market. That is the reason the Meghalaya silk is also called 'Ahimsa Silk'. 'Eri Silk from Meghalaya was recently awarded a GI tag... The tribes of Meghalaya, especially the Khasi community, have preserved it for generations and enriched it with their skills... The silkworms that produce this are not killed, which is why it is known as 'Ahimsa Silk,'' PM Modi said during his Man Ki Baat. Emphasising its environmental appeal, the Prime Minister said that Eri Silk presents an opportunity because of its characteristics. 'It is a perfect product for the global market since there is an increased demand for products that don't harm the environment,' he added. PM Modi also highlighted the functional benefits of the fabric, noting that Eri Silk keeps the wearer warm in winter and cool in summer, a unique property that makes it suitable for all climates. 'This silk keeps you warm during winters and cool during summers,' he added. Further praising the role of local communities, he said, 'Women of Meghalaya are taking this to a larger scale via self-help groups,' showcasing how grassroots efforts are empowering women and expanding the reach of indigenous products. Eri Silk is renowned as the world's only vegan silk, where, unlike other silks, the moth inside the cocoon is not killed. Instead, the moth naturally exits the cocoon, leaving it behind for us to use. This ethical and eco-friendly process sets Eri Silk apart, making it a symbol of compassion and sustainability in the textile industry. Last year, the North Eastern Handicrafts and Handlooms Development Corporation (NEHHDC), under the Ministry of Development of the North Eastern Region (DoNER), Government of India, obtained the prestigious Oeko-Tex certification for its Eri Silk directly from Germany on the nation's 78th Independence Day. This remarkable accomplishment not only elevates the region's traditional craftsmanship but also positions Eri Silk as a globally recognised, sustainable textile. This achievement further solidifies the silk's status as a Geographical Indication (GI) product of Assam, underscoring its authenticity and regional significance. This certification marks a pivotal step in bringing Eri Silk closer to penetrating the global export market, expanding its reach, and establishing a strong international presence. The milestone also opens new doors for Eri Silk, positioning it as a leading eco-friendly fabric in the international market and showcasing the region's potential in contributing to the global textile industry. (ANI)
Time of India
29-06-2025
- General
- Time of India
PM Modi calls Meghalaya's Eri Silk ‘Ahimsa Silk', praises eco-friendly production in Mann Ki Baat
Prime Minister Narendra Modi , in the 123rd episode of his monthly radio address Mann Ki Baat, lauded the traditional Eri Silk of Meghalaya , which has gained global recognition. PM Modi stated that the production process of Eri Silk does not involve killing silkworms, making it an ethical and eco-friendly alternative in the global textile market. That is the reason the Meghalaya silk is also called ' Ahimsa Silk '. "Eri Silk from Meghalaya was recently awarded a GI tag... The tribes of Meghalaya, especially the Khasi community, have preserved it for generations and enriched it with their skills... The silkworms that produce this are not killed, which is why it is known as 'Ahimsa Silk,'" PM Modi said during his Man Ki Baat. Emphasising its environmental appeal, the Prime Minister said that Eri Silk presents an opportunity because of its characteristics. "It is a perfect product for the global market since there is an increased demand for products that don't harm the environment," he added. Live Events PM Modi also highlighted the functional benefits of the fabric, noting that Eri Silk keeps the wearer warm in winter and cool in summer, a unique property that makes it suitable for all climates. "This silk keeps you warm during winters and cool during summers," he added. Further praising the role of local communities, he said, "Women of Meghalaya are taking this to a larger scale via self-help groups," showcasing how grassroots efforts are empowering women and expanding the reach of indigenous products. Eri Silk is renowned as the world's only vegan silk , where, unlike other silks, the moth inside the cocoon is not killed. Instead, the moth naturally exits the cocoon, leaving it behind for us to use. This ethical and eco-friendly process sets Eri Silk apart, making it a symbol of compassion and sustainability in the textile industry. Last year, the North Eastern Handicrafts and Handlooms Development Corporation (NEHHDC), under the Ministry of Development of the North Eastern Region (DoNER), Government of India, obtained the prestigious Oeko-Tex certification for its Eri Silk directly from Germany on the nation's 78th Independence Day. This remarkable accomplishment not only elevates the region's traditional craftsmanship but also positions Eri Silk as a globally recognised, sustainable textile. This achievement further solidifies the silk's status as a Geographical Indication (GI) product of Assam, underscoring its authenticity and regional significance. This certification marks a pivotal step in bringing Eri Silk closer to penetrating the global export market, expanding its reach, and establishing a strong international presence. The milestone also opens new doors for Eri Silk, positioning it as a leading eco-friendly fabric in the international market and showcasing the region's potential in contributing to the global textile industry.
