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Wales Online
07-06-2025
- Wales Online
Underrated Welsh market town is all about biking, beers, and big Sunday lunches
Underrated Welsh market town is all about biking, beers, and big Sunday lunches This historic town was once a stop-off for weary drovers and is now positioning itself as the 'outdoors capital of Wales' Home to the spectacular dams and reservoirs of the Elan and Claerwen Valleys this underrated market town is an ideal hub for biking, hiking, and wildlife watching (Image: Portia Jones ) As I drove through the undulating hills of mid Wales the landscape began to change gradually. The single-track roads wound through steep valleys, past dense woodlands, and over ancient stone bridges that spanned fast-flowing streams. After passing by farmlands and small clusters of houses I soon found myself in the first town on the River Wye, Rhayader. Home to the spectacular dams and reservoirs of the Elan and Claerwen Valleys this underrated market town is an ideal hub for biking, hiking, and wildlife watching. Rhayader has remained true to its farming roots and continues to be an important centre for the farming community with a thriving livestock market serving a large rural area. Rhayader has long been a mid Wales hub for weary travellers and was used as a staging post for drovers and those travelling the long route from London to Aberystwyth. Today it's known as the gateway to the Elan Valley and can be found just outside the vast estate. It's a convenient base with several independent shops, cafés, and pubs, and also positions itself as the 'outdoors capital of Wales'. This destination is definitely one of my favourite places in Wales for an epic bike ride and a massive Sunday lunch at one of the many pubs dotted around the town. Here's how to make the most of a visit to Rhayader. Shopping One of the more atypical shopping options here is Hafod Hardware – a retro, family-run hardware store that has been open since 1895 (Image: Portia Jones ) Article continues below Along the main drag you'll find a compact shopping area where you can browse a selection of antiques, local crafts, prints, pottery, upcycled clothing, and local souvenirs. One of the more uncommon shopping options here is Hafod Hardware which is a retro, family-run hardware store that has been open since 1895. Alongside typical DIY items and kitchenware you can also pick up vintage-style tourism prints of Wales, specially-made Elan Valley mugs, and chocolate bars. Quillies is worth a visit for its lush locally-made crafts including pottery, textiles, jewellery, and fused glass. Get your retail fix at family-run No8 Clothing where you'll find men's, women's, and children's clothing, accessories, and gifts. Gift shops sell locally-made crafts including pottery, textiles, jewellery, and fused glass (Image: Portia Jones ) There are two floors stocking well-known brands including Joules, Brakeburn, Seasalt, Soya Concept, Mistral, Joe Browns, Wrangler, Pachamama, Jellycat, and Powder. River Wood is the only gallery-bookshop in the UK dedicated solely to wildlife and wild places and is packed with original paintings, prints, cards, and books. Upstairs is a working artist's studio and space for creative workshops. For outdoor gear Hill Walking offers a decent variety of clothing, boots, and accessories featuring brands like Urban Road, Game, Regatta, Trespass, and Craghoppers, all suited to walking in Wales' unpredictable weather conditions. Explore the dams Rhayader is the gateway to the spectacular Elan Valley (Image: Portia Jones ) Rhayader is the gateway to the spectacular Elan Valley where the estate's Victorian dams are found among the undulating green hills. Built more than 100 years ago to supply water to a heavily urbanised and thirsty Birmingham these distinctive gravity dams are a massive draw for photographers who come to snap the cascading waters. The story of the Elan Valley begins in the late 19th century when Birmingham, an urban hub at the height of the industrial revolution, was undergoing rapid expansion. The city needed a clean reliable water source and, after much searching, engineers set their sights on the remote Elan Valley. With its high rainfall and steep, narrow landscape the valley was the perfect location for a chain of reservoirs. In 1892 work began on one of the most ambitious water supply projects of its time. More than 3,000 workers were brought in to build dams, reservoirs, and aqueducts by hand with the assistance of steam-powered machinery. By the time the project was completed in 1904 the Elan Valley had undergone a significant transformation. A map of the estate can be procured from the Elan Valley Visitor Centre and staff are also happy to advise on scenic routes to see the dams (Image: Portia Jones ) Four main dams were constructed – Caban Coch, Garreg Ddu, Pen y Garreg, and Craig Goch. Each dam is an engineering marvel, built from local stone and designed to blend seamlessly into the landscape. The Caban Coch Dam, for example, appears to be a natural cliff face from a distance yet up close its sheer size and the sound of water cascading over its edge are nothing short of awe-inspiring. The reservoirs themselves, vast and deep bodies of water, reflect the surrounding hills and sky creating a picture-perfect spot. A map of the estate can be procured from the Elan Valley Visitor Centre and staff are also happy to advise on scenic routes to see the dams. The best time to take a slow drive around the estate is after heavy rainfall (not exactly a difficult feat in Wales) when reservoir water spills over the steep, 'Birmingham Baroque'-style structures. Want to be guided by a local expert? You can book a bespoke tour of the Elan Valley and the Cambrian Mountains area with Cambrian Safaris and find all the hidden corners with a local expert. From superstar gigs to cosy pubs find out What's On in Wales by signing up to our newsletter here. Bike the Elan Valley trail One of the best ways to explore Elan Valley is by strolling or cycling along the Elan Valley Trail (Image: Portia Jones ) One of the best ways to explore Elan Valley is by strolling or cycling along the Elan Valley Trail. This 13-mile (21km) path follows the route of the old railway that brought materials to the valley during the dam's construction. Today a well-maintained trail winds through some of the valley's most scenic spots. Starting in the small village of Cwmdeuddwr, just west of Rhayader, you'll follow the old Birmingham Corporation Railway line, perfectly positioned to show off Elan's best Victorian dams. The linear trail is mostly flat, except for a few inclines, with a few tarmacked stretches making it ideal for cyclists of all abilities, including older kids. And if you want to give your legs a bit of extra help you can always hire an E-bike in Rhayader – after all who says you can't cruise through the valley in style? If you aren't bringing your own bike head to the market town of Rhayader first to rent push bikes or E-bikes from either Neil's Wheels or Clive Powell Mountain Bikes. The trail should take around three hours so renting a bike for half a day should give you plenty of time for photo stops and coffee breaks. The route climbs 165ft from the Elan Valley Visitor Centre and passes the impressive Caban Coch and Garreg Ddu reservoirs. When they are full millions of gallons of water cascade over the historic 120ft-high dam walls of Cabin Coch – get your camera ready. Go wildlife spotting The visitor centre at Gigrin Farm Red Kite Feeding Centre (Image: Gigrin Farm ) Rhayader is on the doorstep of the wildlife-rich Elan Valley and you can also spot red kites circling above the town. Dŵr Cymru Welsh Water owns the nearby Elan Estate, although a more significant part is vested in the Elan Valley Trust. While the estate's principal function is providing a clean water supply it also serves as a carefully-managed beauty spot for curious visitors. More than 80% of the valley is designated a site of special scientific interest (SSSI), rich in wildlife and remarkable landscapes. Thanks to its diverse habitats and careful management the Elan Valley is a haven for a wide range of wildlife. The valley's woodlands, moorlands, and wetlands provide habitats for a diverse range of species including birds, mammals, insects, and plants. Birdwatchers will appreciate the diverse array of species found here. The reservoirs attract waterfowl like tufted ducks, great crested grebes, and goosanders while the surrounding forests are home to woodpeckers and nuthatches. The open moorland serves as a hunting ground for birds of prey with red kites, buzzards, and occasionally peregrine falcons spotted soaring high above. Thanks to its diverse habitats and careful management the Elan Valley is a haven for a wide range of wildlife (Image: Portia Jones ) To get a closer look at the resident red kites head to Gigrin Farm, famous for its red kite feeding. Located half a mile from Rhayader, hundreds of red kites feed here, and it's the best place in the UK to see and photograph hundreds of wild red kites (including rare leucistic red kites). Small-scale cattle-keeping is also a crucial part of farming in Elan Valley. Today only a handful of farms continue this practice. Keep an eye out and you'll see cattle grazing extensively on the open hills and in some enclosed habitats. The Elan Valley's flora is just as impressive. Dense woodlands are home to ancient oaks and the moorlands are covered in a carpet of heather, bilberry, and mosses. In the spring and summer the valley's meadows burst into life with wildflowers, adding a splash of colour to the landscape. Try stargazing The Elan Valley Estate has several prime locations for stargazing (Image: Portia Jones / Dafydd Wyn Morgan ) Did you know that Rhyader and the Elan Valley are home to some of the darkest, clearest, and most unpolluted skies in the world? With its 45,000 acres of protected land the Elan Valley has led this movement since achieving its International Dark Sky Park status in 2015, becoming the first privately-owned but publicly-accessible park in the world to do so. This special status now means that the Elan Valley is protected against light pollution and also provides sanctuary for the abundance of wildlife and nature that can be found here on the estate. Since its dark sky designation the Elan Valley is now recognised as one of the top stargazing destinations in the world and has been featured in many stargazing guides, talks, and books. But what does that mean for stargazers? In simple terms it means minimal light pollution and skies so clear that you can see the Milky Way, meteor showers, and even the faint glow of neighbouring galaxies with the naked eye. The valley's remote location and thoughtful conservation efforts make it a standout spot for those seeking a deeper connection with the cosmos. Here you'll find several prime locations for stargazing. Each offers a unique perspective on the night sky whether you're a casual observer or an avid astrophotographer. The Elan Valley isn't just for stargazing as it's also a dream destination for astrophotographers (Image: Ewan Lo Turco ) Craig Goch Dam Car Park : A popular spot with wide open views, it's ideal for seeing the Milky Way or setting up for long-exposure photography. : A popular spot with wide open views, it's ideal for seeing the Milky Way or setting up for long-exposure photography. Claerwen Dam : Known for its dramatic backdrop, this site combines the grandeur of Victorian engineering with the infinite beauty of the stars above. : Known for its dramatic backdrop, this site combines the grandeur of Victorian engineering with the infinite beauty of the stars above. Teifi Pools : Remote and serene, these pools reflect the starlight, creating a mesmerising experience. : Remote and serene, these pools reflect the starlight, creating a mesmerising experience. Pont ar Elan: Easily accessible yet wonderfully secluded, it's a fantastic spot to gaze at constellations or catch a meteor shower. Bring a red-light torch to preserve your night vision and allow your eyes 20 minutes to adjust to the darkness for the full experience. For a more interactive experience look out for organised stargazing events in the area to connect with the cosmos or try your hand at astrophotography. The Elan Valley Trust and Dark Sky Wales regularly host guided tours and workshops offering expert insights and access to telescopes. For dark sky events look at the Elan Valley's What's On webpage, Facebook (ElanValley), and Instagram (@elanvalley). Eating and drinking in Rhayader There are loads of great food and drink options in Rhayader (Image: Portia Jones ) Swing by The Lost ARC for lunch and coffee in this kooky community café. Definitely order my favourite – a tasty Welsh rarebit comprising toasted bread smothered in warm, mature cheddar, Welsh ale, and a smidge of laverbread and mustard. They also have coffee, cakes, light lunches, and plenty of vegan eats to choose from By night this hip establishment transforms into a live music venue showcasing emerging acts and hosting popular pizza nights. The Old Swan Tea Rooms is a traditional family-run tea room and cake shop offering a lovely spot for homemade pasties, cakes, and lunches. Try their incredibly moreish chicken curry made from a family recipe. For an epic Sunday lunch, head to The Crown for generous portions of meat and veg and a Yorkshire pudding. This is Sunday lunch just like Mam makes it – fuss-free, filling, and with boatloads of gravy. You won't go home hungry. For an epic Sunday Lunch head to The Crown for generous portions of meat and veg (Image: Portia Jones ) Pub-wise the Historic Triangle is a gorgeous 16th-century drover's inn located a short stroll away in Cwmdauddwr. Here you'll find a roaring fire, real cask ales on tap, and homemade food including several pub classics. The Lamb and Flag is another good spot for ales, traditional bar meals, and Sunday carveries while the bright green Elan Hotel also has a decent selection of drinks at their bar. Where to stay These handsome red-brick converted townhouses are perfect for groups of friends or families travelling together (Image: Portia Jones ) Mid Wales Holiday Lets These reasonably-priced holiday lets can sleep up to 44 people with Glandwr House, Afonwy House, The Old Drapers, The Bakehouse, and The Cwtch all available. The handsome red-brick converted townhouses are perfect for groups of friends or families travelling together in the Elan Valley area. They are also well-equipped for cyclists, offering secure bike storage to keep your gear safe. After a long day of hitting the trails you can unwind in the bubbly outdoor hot tub, which is perfect for soothing those aching muscles. Ty Morgans For a stay in the heart of Rhayader Ty Morgans is a historic townhouse that blends traditional charm with a modern feel. This boutique and well-priced accommodation is situated at the crossroads of Rhayader making it a perfect base for exploring the town and the Elan Valley area. It is thoughtfully designed, incorporating original features like oak beams and stone fireplaces while offering all the modern amenities you'd expect including en suite bathrooms. Ty Morgans also features an on-site bar and restaurant where guests can enjoy a variety of meals ranging from full Welsh breakfasts to evening dinners. The central location means you're just a short stroll away from local shops, pubs, and the Riverside Walk. Elan Valley Hotel Located just a short drive from the Elan Valley the Elan Valley Hotel is a top choice for a blend of comfort and convenience wrapped up in a boutique hotel experience. Here you'll find well-appointed rooms with beautiful views of the surrounding countryside. Each room is designed with comfort in mind featuring plush beds and modern amenities. The hotel's restaurant is renowned for its exceptional menu, which features locally-sourced ingredients and offers a truly authentic taste of Wales. It's an ideal spot for easy access to the Elan Valley's many trails and reservoirs while enjoying a touch of luxury. Getting to Rhayader Rhayader, the gateway to the Elan Valley, is easily accessible from various parts of Wales and England. By car: If you're driving Rhayader is well-connected via the A470 and A44, making it a scenic road trip from cities like Cardiff (approximately two and a half hours), Birmingham (just over two hours), or Shrewsbury (around 90 minutes). The roads into mid Wales wind through picturesque countryside so allow a little extra time for slower rural routes and photo stops. By public transport: Travelling by train and bus is also an option though services are limited in this rural area. The nearest train station is in Llandrindod Wells, around 12 miles away, with connections via Transport for Wales. From there you can take a local bus to reach Rhayader. For more information and timetables check Traveline Cymru or use transport apps to help plan your journey. Article continues below
Powys County Times
23-04-2025
- Business
- Powys County Times
Rhayader sisters win at Best of Welsh Business Awards
TWO sisters with a passion for fashion have spoken of their 'immense pride' after the clothing shop they opened just before lockdown was named Mid Wales' best fashion shop. Rachel Evans and Shan Williams were celebrating at Powys' famous Llangoed Hall earlier this month, as their shop, No8 Clothing, based in Rhayader, won 'Best Clothing/Fashion Store' at the Best of Welsh Business Awards 2025. Rachel described the win as a surprise and an amazing reward for the duo's hard work – something they are clearly not shy of, as both run the shop alongside full-time jobs. 'We didn't know anything about it,' said Rachel, 52, who revealed she is still not aware who initially nominated No8 for the award, for the Mid Wales region. The awards work by businesses receiving an initial vote; after which they are notified and can then collect further votes from clients and customers. Rachel said she first became aware of their nomination a few weeks ago, after receiving an email from organisers. It was then a case of publishing the news on social media and collecting votes. 'It's very heartwarming to find out people voted for us and appreciate us, it makes the hard work all worthwhile,' said local girl Rachel. 'It's an amazing reward for us, having started in difficult times.' Rachel and Shan took over the West Street shop from a cousin in November 2019 and sell women's, men's and children's clothing. No8 also sells gifts like candles, as well as bags, jewellery and accessories such as socks and scarves. They both run the shop alongside full time jobs, while Rachel's daughter Asha is also a big help too. 'We took over just before lockdown, so it has been a hard beginning,' added Rachel. 'For a small, new business, it was tough. It wasn't just lockdown, it took a long time for people to come back out to the high street, but we're still here and getting stronger and stronger. 'To get this award fills us with immense pride. We really appreciate our customers who voted, and it just makes me feel so proud and happy.' The Mid Wales awards were held at Llangoed Hall on Sunday, April 13. A post on the No8 Clothing Facebook page following the awards evening said: 'We're absolutely thrilled to share that No8 Clothing has been named Best Fashion Store 2025 at the Mid Wales Business Awards. 'A huge thank you to all our amazing customers, friends and family for your continued support since we opened our doors in 2019. 'It's been an incredible journey and this recognition means the world to us. 'Well done to all the other winners and finalists – it was an honour to be in such great company. Here's to the next chapter – we couldn't have done it without you.'
