Latest news with #OfficineGénérale
LeMonde
3 days ago
- Entertainment
- LeMonde
Calm, softness and lightness prevail at Paris men's Fashion Week
High temperatures did not curb the enthusiasm of the fashion world during the final days of Paris Fashion Week menswear, which ran until June 29. Outside the shows, crowds of fans hoping to catch a glimpse of their favorite celebrities jostled with style enthusiasts trying to charm security into letting them in. But on the runway, the atmosphere was entirely different. A certain gentleness, a welcome sense of calm, prevailed. At Hermès, Véronique Nichanian, who has overseen men's fashion since 1988, echoed this sentiment: "This is a wardrobe for the city in the middle of summer. I wanted to infuse it with a sense of lightness and softness, like a pleasant breeze. I think we all need that right now." This vision translated into luxurious materials handled with great delicacy, such as fine leather overshirts and jackets with openwork details, tank tops and smocks in lightweight cotton or silk knits, oversized linen knit T-shirts and slightly loose cotton twill trousers that seemed to float around the leg. Sweaters with geometric prints were crafted in thick knits, but without heaviness. Large canvas and leather tote bags added a traveler's touch to this relaxed urban look. Around the neck, green, pink and yellow scarves with frayed edges, tied casually, contrasted with the almost autumnal palette of this beautiful summer collection. Summer 2026 also took on an urban feel at Officine Générale, which staged its show right on the street in front of its offices in the 6 th arrondissement of Paris. The brand, founded by Pierre Mahéo in 2012, has made functional wardrobes its trademark. This season, it brought a Riviera spirit to it. "Paris is a wonderful city, but it has one major flaw: It's far from the coast. So I imagined a Parisian summer collection that was both urban and seaside," the designer explained. Men – and women – in Officine Générale strolled the pavement in featherweight poplin wide-legged trousers, rolled at the ankles; striped or printed cotton shirts thrown over traditional striped sailor tops; and zip-up nubuck jackets. On their feet, soft slippers or leather flip-flops made for an especially light step, in keeping with this understated and effective collection. For Marine Serre, it was also a time for tranquility. There was no mega-show this season; instead, the designer chose the intimate setting of an art gallery to present her mixed collection. "I really wanted to focus on the clothing. An exhibition space is perfect for that, just like when you look at paintings." With upcycling and fabric recovery as a common thread, Serre offered wide-legged trousers and work jackets in denim patchwork, close-fitting blazers and scout-inspired shirts complete with integrated scarves and patches. The crescent moon logo – a house signature – adorned faded jeans, bomber jackets and shoe fastenings with equal flair. The advantage of such a close-up presentation was the ability to touch the garments and appreciate their craftsmanship, which certainly shone through. Imaginary island Bulgarian designer Kiko Kostadinov, based in London, has presented his collections in Paris since 2022. In a garage in northern Paris, some rooms spread with fine sand, the 30-something unveiled a collection inspired by a peaceful life on an imaginary island. Striped jackets and trousers were as light as pajamas, fine cotton shorts were roomy and soft polo shirts featured well-placed leather insets. Graphic patterns evoked waves or flowers, as did the collection's easygoing color palette: brown, green, blue. Large, supple bags reminiscent of shepherds' satchels and Bulgarian bagpipes completed the look. This return to roots was also present in the work of Willy Chavarria, coupled with a strong message. The California-based designer opened his show at the Salle Pleyel with about 30 men in white T-shirts and bermuda shorts, made in collaboration with the American Civil Liberties Union (ACLU, an advocacy group for individual and free speech rights). Seated with their hands behind their backs, they adopted a pose inspired by prisoners at the Salvadoran counterterrorism detention center, opened by the president of El Salvador in 2023. Footage of inmates there, many of them migrants deported by the US government since April, has circulated around the world. Accompanied by the powerful vocals of Mexican singer Vivir Quintana, the collection was titled "Huron," after designer Chavarria's hometown. The large, colorful suits echoed those he saw in his childhood, as did the wide ties. These were followed by roomy shorts, oversized blazers, layered polo shirts and short, zip-up jackets paired with baggy trousers, all to create a wardrobe of melancholic beauty. Finally, British designer Craig Green, a regular at London Fashion Week, presented his new collection at the Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers. A master of deconstruction and a graduate of Central Saint Martins in London, Green has continued with his successful experiments: Parkas and trench coats were cut open at the back, jackets fastened with dozens of straps and swathes of fabric trailed from shirts and shorts. The prints were floral and colorful. "The older you get, the more you want to do simple things – like tend your garden, right?" the almost 40-year-old said with a smile at the end of the show. It was another way of conjuring up a sense of calm and softness.
Fashion Network
4 days ago
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Paris: Juun.J revisits tailoring, Officine Générale refines the wardrobe
Published June 29, 2025 Men's fashion has many facets. Between the wardrobe of the businessman and that of the artist, there are a thousand-and-one nuances that can be introduced to create a wardrobe that is inventive, desirable, but also practical and comfortable. This was demonstrated on Friday by the Parisian label Officine Générale and the South Korean label Juun.J, in two completely opposite registers, on the occasion of the Paris Men's Fashion Week dedicated to Spring/Summer 2026. Officine Générale, spring-summer 2026 - ©Launchmetrics/spotlight The Rue Jules Chaplain was the venue for Pierre Mahéo this season, where his company's headquarters are located right next to the Mk2 Parnasse cinema, creating a friendly, summery atmosphere from the outset. The collection was called "Pariviera", blending Officine Générale's typical Parisian style with a more relaxed, seaside feel. "It's a little geographical fantasy, which I tried to translate into clothes with a collection designed to cope with the heat," explained the entrepreneur-designer. A great deal of attention was, therefore, paid to materials, to make them as airy as possible and give the garments suppleness. Several outfits were made from poplin—a parachute fabric. Others were made from featherweight stripes in a blend of cotton, linen, and Tencel. Shirts and suits were offered in seersucker weighing in at just 110 grams per linear meter, offering an air-draped body feel. Suede jackets and small leather jackets were naturally the softest, while silk featured for the pajama-like shirt was worn almost as a jacket over a white T-shirt and flowing pants. The Mao collar shirt was also on the rise. Jackets, devoid of structure and lining, were tied at the waist like a sweater, tone-on-tone with shirt and pants. Silhouettes fluctuate, garments flowing without dwelling on the body, which was barely exuded lightness and nonchalance in this wardrobe with its neutral palette, punctuated by nautical details, from sailor knits to shirts with windbreaker collars. Models crossed the street in flip-flops or comfortable leather slippers, a scarf tied like a Keith Richards headband, sometimes daring to wear a shell an indolent gesture, they tucked their shirts into their pants without buttoning them. A scoubidou cord woven from cotton strips served as a belt. They rolled up their sleeves to shorten them, while the hem of the pants was hastily rolled up. And off they went for a stroll along the beach. Juun.J, spring-summer 2026 - ©Launchmetrics/spotlight At Juun.J, clothes were split and peeled. All pants, for example, were systematically lined with another model in a different fabric, hung along the right leg like a large side panel. Another suggestion was to unbutton the pants at the top on the side, leaving the waistband to fold down the front to reveal another pair underneath. Leather pants or shorts were revealed under wool trousers, jeans appeared under a banker's suit, off-road fatigues were revealed under canvas always, the Korean designer worked with large volumes, but this season he abandoned his usual streetwear vein for greater, almost couture sophistication. Suits were tailored to create a precise silhouette inspired by the elegance of the 1940s, while suggesting the power dressing of the flaunted imposing shoulders, then tightened at the waist, while tailored pants drape into generous shapes. Suits were worn with flip-flops. At the other end of the spectrum, summer shorts were paired with loafers and high the Juun.J man went wild, donning a tuxedo jacket over a denim tank top, or opting for a sailor look in a striped knit with a boat neck, white cotton pants with black stripes and a small woolly hat. In his wardrobe, there was no shortage of leather jackets, nylon bomber aviators, military jackets, and canvas overalls. "I wanted to show the big chains or ties errors that boys and girls make when it comes to fashion and clothing. But also how these mistakes can be transformed into a very cool and unique form of fashion," explained designer Jung Wook Jun. Copyright © 2025 All rights reserved.
Fashion Network
4 days ago
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Paris: Juun.J revisits tailoring, Officine Générale lightens the wardrobe
Men's fashion presents a variety of facets. Between the wardrobe of the businessman and that of the artist, there are a myriad of nuances that can be introduced to create a wardrobe that is inventive, desirable, and yet practical and comfortable. This was demonstrated on Friday by the Parisian label Officine Générale and the South Korean label Juun.J, in two completely opposing styles, during the Paris Men's Fashion Week dedicated to Spring-Summer 2026. See catwalk This season, Pierre Mahéo welcomes guests to the rue Jules Chaplain, home to his label's headquarters, right next to the Mk2 Parnasse cinema, creating a friendly, summery atmosphere from the outset. The collection is aptly named "Pariviera", blending Officine Générale's typical Parisian style with a more relaxed, seaside touch. "It's a little geographical fantasy that I've tried to translate into clothing with a collection designed to cope with the heat," explained the entrepreneur-designer. A significant focus was placed on materials, ensuring they were as airy as possible to provide the garments with suppleness. Several outfits were crafted from poplin - a parachute-like fabric. Others used featherweight striped fabrics made from a blend of cotton, linen, and Tencel. Shirts and suits were offered in seersucker weighing just 110 grams per linear meter, offering an air-draped body sensation. Suede jackets and small leather jackets were naturally soft, while silk makes an elegant appearance for evening wear. The pajama-style shirt is worn almost like a jacket over a white T-shirt and drawstring pants. Mao-collar shirts were also gaining popularity. Jackets devoid of structure and lining are tied at the waist like a sweater, in tone-on-tone combinations with shirts and pants. The silhouettes were fluid, with garments cascading effortlessly without clinging to the body, merely grazing it. Everything exuded lightness and nonchalance in this wardrobe, characterized by a neutral palette, punctuated by nautical details, from sailor knits to windbreaker-collared shirts. Models casually walk down the street in flip-flops or comfortable leather slippers, with a scarf tied as a Keith Richards-style headband, and occasionally daring to wear a shell necklace. In a casual gesture, they tucked shirts into pants without buttoning them. A scoubidou cord woven from cotton strips serves as a belt. They rolled up their sleeves for a shorter look, and the hem of the pants is hastily rolled up. And so they set off for a stroll along the beach. See catwalk At Juun.J, garments were split and layered. All pants, for instance, were systematically supplemented with another model in a different fabric, draped along the right leg like a large side panel. Another approach was to unbutton the pants at the top on the side, allowing the waistband to fold down in the front, revealing another pair beneath. Leather pants or shorts were exposed under wool trousers; jeans appear beneath a business suit; rugged pants emerge beneath canvas trousers. As always, the Korean designer works with large volumes, but this season he's departing from his usual streetwear inspiration for a more sophisticated, almost couture-like approach. Suits were precisely tailored to create a silhouette inspired by the elegance of the 1940s, while subtly nodding to the power dressing of the nineties. Jackets boast pronounced shoulders before tapering at the waist, while pleated pants drape generously. The suit was paired with flip-flops. Conversely, summer shorts were teamed with loafers and knee-high socks. Occasionally, the Juun.J man ventured into bolder territories, donning a tuxedo jacket over a denim tank top, or adopting a sailor look with a striped knit featuring a boat neck, white cotton pants with black stripes, and a small wool hat. His wardrobe didn't lack a leather jacket, a nylon bomber, a military jacket, or canvas overalls. "I wanted to showcase the significant fashion and clothing errors made by both men and women. But also how these errors can transform into a very cool and unique form of fashion," explained designer Jung Wook Jun.
Fashion Network
4 days ago
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Paris: Juun.J revisits tailoring, Officine Générale refines the wardrobe
Men's fashion has many facets. Between the wardrobe of the businessman and that of the artist, there are a thousand-and-one nuances that can be introduced to create a wardrobe that is inventive, desirable, but also practical and comfortable. This was demonstrated on Friday by the Parisian label Officine Générale and the South Korean label Juun.J, in two completely opposite registers, on the occasion of the Paris Men's Fashion Week dedicated to Spring/Summer 2026. See catwalk The Rue Jules Chaplain was the venue for Pierre Mahéo this season, where his company's headquarters are located right next to the Mk2 Parnasse cinema, creating a friendly, summery atmosphere from the outset. The collection was called "Pariviera", blending Officine Générale's typical Parisian style with a more relaxed, seaside feel. "It's a little geographical fantasy, which I tried to translate into clothes with a collection designed to cope with the heat," explained the entrepreneur-designer. A great deal of attention was, therefore, paid to materials, to make them as airy as possible and give the garments suppleness. Several outfits were made from poplin—a parachute fabric. Others were made from featherweight stripes in a blend of cotton, linen, and Tencel. Shirts and suits were offered in seersucker weighing in at just 110 grams per linear meter, offering an air-draped body feel. Suede jackets and small leather jackets were naturally the softest, while silk featured for the evening. The pajama-like shirt was worn almost as a jacket over a white T-shirt and flowing pants. The Mao collar shirt was also on the rise. Jackets, devoid of structure and lining, were tied at the waist like a sweater, tone-on-tone with shirt and pants. Silhouettes fluctuate, garments flowing without dwelling on the body, which was barely brushed. Everything exuded lightness and nonchalance in this wardrobe with its neutral palette, punctuated by nautical details, from sailor knits to shirts with windbreaker collars. Models crossed the street in flip-flops or comfortable leather slippers, a scarf tied like a Keith Richards headband, sometimes daring to wear a shell necklace. In an indolent gesture, they tucked their shirts into their pants without buttoning them. A scoubidou cord woven from cotton strips served as a belt. They rolled up their sleeves to shorten them, while the hem of the pants was hastily rolled up. And off they went for a stroll along the beach. See catwalk At Juun.J, clothes were split and peeled. All pants, for example, were systematically lined with another model in a different fabric, hung along the right leg like a large side panel. Another suggestion was to unbutton the pants at the top on the side, leaving the waistband to fold down the front to reveal another pair underneath. Leather pants or shorts were revealed under wool trousers, jeans appeared under a banker's suit, off-road fatigues were revealed under canvas pants. As always, the Korean designer worked with large volumes, but this season he abandoned his usual streetwear vein for greater, almost couture sophistication. Suits were tailored to create a precise silhouette inspired by the elegance of the 1940s, while suggesting the power dressing of the nineties. Jackets flaunted imposing shoulders, then tightened at the waist, while tailored pants drape into generous shapes. Suits were worn with flip-flops. At the other end of the spectrum, summer shorts were paired with loafers and high socks. Occasionally, the Juun.J man went wild, donning a tuxedo jacket over a denim tank top, or opting for a sailor look in a striped knit with a boat neck, white cotton pants with black stripes and a small woolly hat. In his wardrobe, there was no shortage of leather jackets, nylon bomber aviators, military jackets, and canvas overalls. "I wanted to show the big chains or ties errors that boys and girls make when it comes to fashion and clothing. But also how these mistakes can be transformed into a very cool and unique form of fashion," explained designer Jung Wook Jun.
Fashion Network
5 days ago
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Paris: Juun.J revisits tailoring, Officine Générale lightens the wardrobe
Men's fashion presents a variety of facets. Between the wardrobe of the businessman and that of the artist, there are a myriad of nuances that can be introduced to create a wardrobe that is inventive, desirable, and yet practical and comfortable. This was demonstrated on Friday by the Parisian label Officine Générale and the South Korean label Juun.J, in two completely opposing styles, during the Paris Men's Fashion Week dedicated to Spring-Summer 2026. See catwalk This season, Pierre Mahéo welcomes guests to the rue Jules Chaplain, home to his label's headquarters, right next to the Mk2 Parnasse cinema, creating a friendly, summery atmosphere from the outset. The collection is aptly named "Pariviera", blending Officine Générale's typical Parisian style with a more relaxed, seaside touch. "It's a little geographical fantasy that I've tried to translate into clothing with a collection designed to cope with the heat," explained the entrepreneur-designer. A significant focus was placed on materials, ensuring they were as airy as possible to provide the garments with suppleness. Several outfits were crafted from poplin - a parachute-like fabric. Others used featherweight striped fabrics made from a blend of cotton, linen, and Tencel. Shirts and suits were offered in seersucker weighing just 110 grams per linear meter, offering an air-draped body sensation. Suede jackets and small leather jackets were naturally soft, while silk makes an elegant appearance for evening wear. The pajama-style shirt is worn almost like a jacket over a white T-shirt and drawstring pants. Mao-collar shirts were also gaining popularity. Jackets devoid of structure and lining are tied at the waist like a sweater, in tone-on-tone combinations with shirts and pants. The silhouettes were fluid, with garments cascading effortlessly without clinging to the body, merely grazing it. Everything exuded lightness and nonchalance in this wardrobe, characterized by a neutral palette, punctuated by nautical details, from sailor knits to windbreaker-collared shirts. Models casually walk down the street in flip-flops or comfortable leather slippers, with a scarf tied as a Keith Richards-style headband, and occasionally daring to wear a shell necklace. In a casual gesture, they tucked shirts into pants without buttoning them. A scoubidou cord woven from cotton strips serves as a belt. They rolled up their sleeves for a shorter look, and the hem of the pants is hastily rolled up. And so they set off for a stroll along the beach. See catwalk At Juun.J, garments were split and layered. All pants, for instance, were systematically supplemented with another model in a different fabric, draped along the right leg like a large side panel. Another approach was to unbutton the pants at the top on the side, allowing the waistband to fold down in the front, revealing another pair beneath. Leather pants or shorts were exposed under wool trousers; jeans appear beneath a business suit; rugged pants emerge beneath canvas trousers. As always, the Korean designer works with large volumes, but this season he's departing from his usual streetwear inspiration for a more sophisticated, almost couture-like approach. Suits were precisely tailored to create a silhouette inspired by the elegance of the 1940s, while subtly nodding to the power dressing of the nineties. Jackets boast pronounced shoulders before tapering at the waist, while pleated pants drape generously. The suit was paired with flip-flops. Conversely, summer shorts were teamed with loafers and knee-high socks. Occasionally, the Juun.J man ventured into bolder territories, donning a tuxedo jacket over a denim tank top, or adopting a sailor look with a striped knit featuring a boat neck, white cotton pants with black stripes, and a small wool hat. His wardrobe didn't lack a leather jacket, a nylon bomber, a military jacket, or canvas overalls. "I wanted to showcase the significant fashion and clothing errors made by both men and women. But also how these errors can transform into a very cool and unique form of fashion," explained designer Jung Wook Jun.
