Calm, softness and lightness prevail at Paris men's Fashion Week

LeMonde

2 days ago

High temperatures did not curb the enthusiasm of the fashion world during the final days of Paris Fashion Week menswear, which ran until June 29. Outside the shows, crowds of fans hoping to catch a glimpse of their favorite celebrities jostled with style enthusiasts trying to charm security into letting them in. But on the runway, the atmosphere was entirely different. A certain gentleness, a welcome sense of calm, prevailed.
At Hermès, Véronique Nichanian, who has overseen men's fashion since 1988, echoed this sentiment: "This is a wardrobe for the city in the middle of summer. I wanted to infuse it with a sense of lightness and softness, like a pleasant breeze. I think we all need that right now." This vision translated into luxurious materials handled with great delicacy, such as fine leather overshirts and jackets with openwork details, tank tops and smocks in lightweight cotton or silk knits, oversized linen knit T-shirts and slightly loose cotton twill trousers that seemed to float around the leg. Sweaters with geometric prints were crafted in thick knits, but without heaviness. Large canvas and leather tote bags added a traveler's touch to this relaxed urban look. Around the neck, green, pink and yellow scarves with frayed edges, tied casually, contrasted with the almost autumnal palette of this beautiful summer collection.
Summer 2026 also took on an urban feel at Officine Générale, which staged its show right on the street in front of its offices in the 6 th arrondissement of Paris. The brand, founded by Pierre Mahéo in 2012, has made functional wardrobes its trademark. This season, it brought a Riviera spirit to it. "Paris is a wonderful city, but it has one major flaw: It's far from the coast. So I imagined a Parisian summer collection that was both urban and seaside," the designer explained. Men – and women – in Officine Générale strolled the pavement in featherweight poplin wide-legged trousers, rolled at the ankles; striped or printed cotton shirts thrown over traditional striped sailor tops; and zip-up nubuck jackets. On their feet, soft slippers or leather flip-flops made for an especially light step, in keeping with this understated and effective collection.
For Marine Serre, it was also a time for tranquility. There was no mega-show this season; instead, the designer chose the intimate setting of an art gallery to present her mixed collection. "I really wanted to focus on the clothing. An exhibition space is perfect for that, just like when you look at paintings." With upcycling and fabric recovery as a common thread, Serre offered wide-legged trousers and work jackets in denim patchwork, close-fitting blazers and scout-inspired shirts complete with integrated scarves and patches. The crescent moon logo – a house signature – adorned faded jeans, bomber jackets and shoe fastenings with equal flair. The advantage of such a close-up presentation was the ability to touch the garments and appreciate their craftsmanship, which certainly shone through.
Imaginary island
Bulgarian designer Kiko Kostadinov, based in London, has presented his collections in Paris since 2022. In a garage in northern Paris, some rooms spread with fine sand, the 30-something unveiled a collection inspired by a peaceful life on an imaginary island. Striped jackets and trousers were as light as pajamas, fine cotton shorts were roomy and soft polo shirts featured well-placed leather insets. Graphic patterns evoked waves or flowers, as did the collection's easygoing color palette: brown, green, blue. Large, supple bags reminiscent of shepherds' satchels and Bulgarian bagpipes completed the look.
This return to roots was also present in the work of Willy Chavarria, coupled with a strong message. The California-based designer opened his show at the Salle Pleyel with about 30 men in white T-shirts and bermuda shorts, made in collaboration with the American Civil Liberties Union (ACLU, an advocacy group for individual and free speech rights). Seated with their hands behind their backs, they adopted a pose inspired by prisoners at the Salvadoran counterterrorism detention center, opened by the president of El Salvador in 2023. Footage of inmates there, many of them migrants deported by the US government since April, has circulated around the world.
Accompanied by the powerful vocals of Mexican singer Vivir Quintana, the collection was titled "Huron," after designer Chavarria's hometown. The large, colorful suits echoed those he saw in his childhood, as did the wide ties. These were followed by roomy shorts, oversized blazers, layered polo shirts and short, zip-up jackets paired with baggy trousers, all to create a wardrobe of melancholic beauty.
Finally, British designer Craig Green, a regular at London Fashion Week, presented his new collection at the Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers. A master of deconstruction and a graduate of Central Saint Martins in London, Green has continued with his successful experiments: Parkas and trench coats were cut open at the back, jackets fastened with dozens of straps and swathes of fabric trailed from shirts and shorts. The prints were floral and colorful. "The older you get, the more you want to do simple things – like tend your garden, right?" the almost 40-year-old said with a smile at the end of the show. It was another way of conjuring up a sense of calm and softness.