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The Herald Scotland
7 days ago
- The Herald Scotland
I discovered a fascinating link between Scotland and the art of Siena
Siena, helped by its position on the Via Francigena, an important pilgrim and trade route to Rome, had risen as a centre of culture as well as of commerce after it defeated its rival Florence in 1260. Architecture and art in all forms flourished and Sienese painters, originally influenced by byzantine art, began to move away from stylized and devotional representations towards more secular, narrative portrayals. Some feature skilfully executed architecture, many are decorative and lyrical and others notable for the expressive and poetic faces. For those not lucky enough to be able to visit Siena, the exhibition Siena: The Rise of Painting 1300 - 1350 running at the National Gallery, London until June 22 contains fine examples. The artists included the Lorenzetti brothers and Simone Martini but it was undoubtedly Duccio who was the master. Fresco by Pinturicchio in the Piccolomini Library showing Aneas Silvius Piccolomino meeting King James I of Scotland (Image: unknown) It was in recognition that he had created something superb that the procession of the Maestà was arranged. To show it off it did not however, take the direct route to the cathedral but a more circuitous one and I realised that by following it, even today I would discover much of the art and architecture for which Siena is famous. The procession in fact headed straight down to the newly built Piazza del Campo which the year before had hosted the very first Palio, the horse race which still takes place every summer. It is a unique scallop-shaped space of great charm which, then as now, quickly established itself as the heart of Siena. Sheltered by tall imposing buildings and edged with cafes, there are fewer more pleasant places to sit and relax. Within the piazza is the town hall, the Palazzo Pubblico, an impressive example of medieval/gothic civic architecture. This was commissioned by The Nine, the governing body of the city, together with a series of magnificent frescoes still to be found in almost every room. The most outstanding are the enormous Allegories of Good and Bad Government painted in 1338 by Ambrogio Lorenzetti, which not only reminded citizens of the importance of good governance and the potential consequences of bad decisions but also provide us today with an unparalleled glimpse of 14th century Tuscan life. Piazza del Campo (Image: Visit Tuscany) Here too in the Sala del Mappamondo is Simone Martini's Maestà painted just after Duccio's as well as his fresco portrait of the mounted warlord Giudoricco da Fogiano, between the castles he had conquered, resplendent in the same striking livery as his horse. This is one of the first truly secular paintings created with both realism and imagination. From the Piazza the procession did not have far to travel to the cathedral but the followers may not have seen all its wonders as we do today because it took many years to complete. Conversely, if we want to see Duccio's Maestà now (many Sienese art works were lent to the London exhibition but this one remained firmly at home) we need to cross over to the Museo dell'Opera Metropolitana. There I sat quietly and contemplated the glorious masterpiece which, although stripped of some predellas and smaller paintings, still finds itself 714 years later at (almost) its original location. It remained on the high altar for some years and was then moved around the cathedral several times before being dismembered and sections sold off in the eighteenth century. It was moved to its present location in 1878 and now some 33 of the smaller sections are found in 10 collections in I 5 countries. Hotel Duomo in Siena (Image: Hotel Duomo) Before leaving the cathedral complex, I entered the Piccolomini Library where I came upon a fascinating link between Siena and Scotland. Amongst the frescos painted by Pinturicchio around 1505 there is one depicting King James 1 of Scotland receiving Aeneas Silivius Piccolmini, the future Pope Pius II. The king sits enthroned under a loggia surrounded by courtiers but there is nothing remotely Scottish about this rather enchanting scene. The style of the clothing is entirely Italian and the background, a lake on which a gondola-like boat sails, is as different from the Firth of Forth as one can imagine. Yet such a meeting did occur. In 1335 Aenaes Silvius, aged 30, did go to meet the Scottish monarch in Edinburgh on a mysterious diplomatic mission. He had many adventures including a shipwreck - he also got a Sienese lady pregnant…Later, another famous Scotsman, James Boswell while ostensibly looking at art on his Grand Tour also had several dalliances in Siena and was in fact the love object of Girolama Piccolomino, a situation from which he apparently, 'beat a hasty retreat.' Read more Of course Siena has much more to offer than art; there are numerous excellent restaurants: La Taverna del Capitano, Enoteca I Terzi, Ristorante il Particolare, Ristorante San Desidero and Ristorante il Tufo were amongst those wherein I enjoyed good local dishes. There are also all the smart shops one expects from a thriving Italian city but why not take the opportunity in this city so imbued with art, to buy enduring treasures from local artist and crafts people? A complete list of artisans can be found at For truly exquisite paintings ( expensive but worth it considering work involved) Chiara Perinetti Casoni together with her brother Paolo, use the old traditional techniques of wood, egg tempera and gilding to produce both copies and enchanting original works which capture the essence of the Sienese masters. Several other people including Marco Caratelli, offer similar works Siena is not only a beautiful city in itself but the visitor will find within it a unique treasure trove of beautiful things to enjoy. Duccio 's Maestà (Image: free) FACT BOX Patricia Cleveland-Peck travelled to Florence courtesy of Vueling Airlines. Flights from Edinburgh connect via Barcelona. She was hosted by Tuscany Official Tourism She stayed at the Hotel Duomo, Siena Thanks too to the Comune di Siena, Councillor Mrs Vanna Giunti and Veronika Wobbe. Also to the city guides, Giulia, Lucovica and Anna
Local Italy
20-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Local Italy
What's on in Italy: 11 unmissable events to look forward to this summer
Arena Opera Festival, Verona - June 13th-September 6th Every year the Verona Arena, an ancient Roman amphitheatre built in 30 AD, hosts one of Italy's most prestigious opera festivals. The festival celebrated its centenary in 2023, one hundred years after the first performance of Giuseppe Verdi's Aida was staged within its walls, and shows no signs of slowing down. This season opera buffs will have the opportunity to see performances of Nabucco, Carmen, Rigoletto and Carmina Burana, among other classics. You can find the full 2025 calendar here. Luminara of San Ranieri, Pisa - June 16th The Tuscan city of Pisa celebrates its patron saint's day by lighting up dozens of buildings with a magical display consisting of over 100,000 wax candles perched on wooden supports known as biancherie. The evening is topped off with a fireworks show and is followed the next day with the Palio di San Ranieri, in which crews of rowers from the city's four districts race down the Arno and must climb a 10-metre pole to claim the winner's flag. Calcio Storico final, Florence - June 24th The annual Calcio Storico tournament is one of Florence's most hotly-anticipated summer events. Calcio Storico (or historical football) is an early – and very violent – form of football that originated during the Middle Ages in Italy. It combines elements of modern-day rugby, football and wrestling. Every year, Tuscany's capital sees four teams, each representing a different city district, battle it out to be crowned the champions. The semi-finals take place in early June, while the final match is held on the feast day of the city's patron saint, John the Baptist, on June 24th. A medieval pageant will make its way through the city's streets from Piazza Santa Maria Novella to Piazza della Signoria at around 4pm on the day of the final, with the final set to start at 6pm. The day is usually rounded off with a fireworks display over River Arno. Festival of the Two Worlds, Spoleto - June 27th-July 13th The 68th edition of the Festival dei Due Mondi (or Festival of the Two Worlds) in Spoleto, Umbria, will feature an extensive programme of dance, music, opera and theatre performances. Founded by Italian composer Gian Carlo Menotti in 1958, the festival was originally held in conjunction with a similar event in Charleston, South Carolina, with the intention of marrying the 'two worlds' of American and European culture. You can find the full 2025 events calendar here. Palio di Siena, Siena - July 2nd and August 16th The Palio di Siena is one of the most popular horse races in the world, with Siena's 17 contrade districts competing against each other in an intense race held in the city's oval-shaped Piazza del Campo. First held in 1633, the Palio takes place twice a year: on July 2nd and August 16th. The July Palio is called Palio di Provenzano, while the August one is known as Palio dell'Assunta as a homage to the Assumption of Mary, celebrated by the Catholic Church on August 15th. Horses pictured during the final lap of Italy's Palio di Siena on July 2nd, 2022. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP A number of events are held in the three days preceding the race, including several trial runs and the momentous tratta (draw), where each competing contrada is randomly assigned a horse. On the day of the Palio, a parade made up of nearly 700 participants dressed in historical costumes enchants the public just before the start of the race. Ravello Festival, Ravello, Campania - July 6th-August 25th Among the highlights of the Italian summer is the Ravello Festival, a packed programme of open-air classical music performances held on the terrace of Villa Rufolo, a 13th-century villa overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. This year's festival will see world-famous musicians and conductors perform music by Wagner, Brahms, Tchaikovsky and Beethoven, among others. The 2025 edition will close out on August 25th with a performance from the UK's Royal Philharmonic Orchestra. Perched some 350 metres above sea level, Ravello's elevation provides some welcome relief from the summer heat. If you're in the town this summer, make sure to visit Villa Cimbrone's landscaped gardens, which offer unique views of the Amalfi Coast. Umbria Jazz Festival, Perugia - July 11th-20th One of Europe's leading jazz festivals, Umbria Jazz has both a summer and a winter edition, with this year's summer festival set to run from July 11th to July 20th Herbie Hancock, Mitch Woods, Mark Turner and Isaiah Collier are some of the international acts set to make an appearance in 2025. You can find this year's full programme here. Festa del Redentore, Venice - July 18th-20th Held every year on the third Sunday of July, Venice's Festa del Redentore (Feast of the Redeemer) commemorates the end of a plague that decimated Venice's population, killing as many as 46,000 residents between 1575 and 1576. A number of events take place on the weekdays preceding the feast itself, including the construction of a floating walkway connecting Venice to the nearby Giudecca island. Celebrations traditionally kick off on Saturday afternoon, punctuated by a 40-minute fireworks display over the lagoon's waters at around 11.30pm. Ferragosto, nationwide - August 15th Ferragosto is by far Italy's biggest summer holiday, unofficially marking the peak of the country's vacation season. Though it is celebrated on the same day as the Catholic holiday of the Assumption of Mary, Ferragosto has pagan roots. A view of Monterosso beach, in Italy's Cinque Terre National Park, on August 13th, 2024. Photo by MARCO BERTORELLO / AFP Its origins are in the Feriae Augusti, festivals introduced by Roman emperor Augustus in 18 BC to celebrate the end of the harvest season and give farmers a period of rest after the hard labour of the previous weeks. Despite being one of Italy's most important holidays, Ferragosto is typically a low-key affair, with most Italians celebrating by taking off the week around the feast and heading to the beach or the mountains. That said, some towns around the country generally stage processions where a statue of the Virgin Mary is carried through the streets or, in seaside villages, along the shoreline in a boat. Notte della Taranta, Melpignano, Puglia - August 23rd One of the most hotly-anticipated events of Puglia's summer is the Notte della Taranta. It's a night of high-energy pizzica – a folk dance believed to have originated from the legend that anyone bitten by a tarantula would have to dance in a frenzy for days to flush out the venom. This year's edition will take place in the town of Melpignano, just outside Lecce. I Suoni delle Dolomiti, Trentino - August 27th-October 4th Once you've soaked up all the August sun Italy's coast has to offer, why not see out the end of the summer by heading up north to the Trentino Dolomites to experience live music performances immersed in nature? The staggered music festival The Sounds of the Dolomites takes place in different locations around the Alpine region – from alpine meadows and pastures to mountain huts. This year's programme features a variety of musical genres, including classical, jazz, world music, folk and pop. Most performances are free of charge, though reaching the venues often involves hiking or using shuttle services, which are not included and must be paid for separately.
UPI
18-05-2025
- Entertainment
- UPI
Stanley Tucci hopes new Italian food show offers viewers escapism, inspiration
Stanley Tucci's "Tucci in Italy" premieres Sunday on NatGeo. It will be available to stream on Hulu and Disney+ Monday File Photo by Jim Ruymen/UPI | License Photo May 18 (UPI) -- Six-time Emmy-winner Stanley Tucci says his cooking and travel shows have opened up his world and changed his life. His latest docu-series, Tucci in Italy, premieres on National Geographic Sunday, and Hulu and Disney+ on Monday. It follows his previous hit, Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy, which ran for two seasons on CNN. "it's brought me to places that I never thought I would go to meet people I never thought I'd meet, given me access to places that I wouldn't normally have access to," Tucci, 64, told UPi in a recent Zoom interview. "I'm just learning more and more about the things I'm interested in -- two things -- which are food and Italy." Tucci said Mother Nature dictates when and where the series is filmed as much as his own work schedule and personal life do. Season 1 of Tucci in Italy was shot intermittently over the course of six or seven months. "It has to be carved out very carefully because it takes a lot to plan it and you have to be aware of the seasons," he explained. "If you're going to tell a story about, let's say the Palio [festival] in Tuscany, you have to know when is that happening and what access do you have? How long can you actually stay there? You can't just keep flying over," he added. "You have to plan it out, so you do one or two episodes all at once and then you take a little break because, obviously, you just can't keep shooting that much. It's so tiring and then you have to come home and see your family and stuff like that." Tucci spotlights Italy's culture and beauty by trekking around the country, taking in the sights and tasting amazing food everywhere from Michelin-star restaurants to local holes in the wall. "I want them to enjoy it," Tucci said of the show's viewers. "I want it to be, I suppose, in some ways, a form of escapism, and, yet, at the same time, I want them to understand how complex Italy is, and how diverse it is, and that it isn't just that all the places are sunny and everybody's happy and half the people are Mafiosi," he quipped. Tucci also hopes the series inspires audiences to seek out locally grown, seasonal food and support local eateries to the extent that their means can afford in the locations where they live. "That's what Italy is very good at," he noted. "Contemporary, western societies are becoming less farm-to-table in a lot of ways. Sometimes, the people are fighting to reverse that and, in some places, that's being achieved, but globalization has taken a lot of that away," Tucci said. "So, I think we tried to tell stories that express that, that show the importance of that without being precious." Tucci understands that not everyone has the access to or money for organic fruits, vegetables and meat. "Let's face it. In America, how many people can actually afford organic produce? That's the problem," he said. "We have places where there are just food deserts. People have to drive forever just to go to a grocery store and then is that grocery store really going to have organic food?" The show also emphasizes the social aspects of going out to dine in one's neighborhood or town. "That's very much a part of Italian culture," the actor said. "That's why there are so many restaurants. People love to go to restaurants. A local trattoria is like the hub of the community and it's a really, really important place." Tucci admitted that when he's not working, he loves to stay at home and cook for his wife Felicity Blunt and their kids. "But, after a couple of weeks, I'm like, 'OK, now let's go out,'" he laughed. The show's debut arrives just weeks after Tucci's Vatican-set political thriller, Conclave, saw a resurgence in popularity due to the real-life election of Pope Leo XIV. "It's a movie that came from a beautiful novel by Robert Harris, but it's a movie," Tucci said, emphasizing that the work of fiction should not be seen as an historic record, even if it does shed some light on a mysterious process. "Robert, obviously, did his research and we had a religious adviser on set all the time, so I think it's as true as it can be." Meryl Streep, Ryan Reynolds attend New York screening of Stanley Tucci's 'Final Portrait' Writer and director Stanley Tucci | License Photo
Sydney Morning Herald
22-04-2025
- Sydney Morning Herald
On board the world's most luxurious new train
An ambitious programme of eight one and two-night itineraries covering 14 Italian regions has been devised, most starting and ending in Rome and the most elaborate entailing a transfer of the train across the Straits of Messina on a privately chartered vessel to Sicily for visits to Taormina and Palermo. Some thought two nights was the right duration, others wanted longer, but all agreed that more time at our destinations would have been welcomed, and that will be reflected in tweaks to tours. As invariably happens on hotel trains, guests from half a dozen countries soon bonded in the lounge car, where the bar and piano were placed between an area of sinuous banquettes and seats arranged in twos and fours. The youngest in the surprisingly wide age range were a couple from South Korea, evidently on their honeymoon. Other passengers included an investor who had been successful enough to retire early and become a professional bridge player, and a couple from Delhi in the legal profession. Most of us matched the glad rags of the pianist, saxophonist and singer entertaining us after dinner. The near extinction of proper dining cars on so many railways has increased the pleasure of eating in one, and we began lunch to views over a glittering bay to the island of Napoleon's first incarceration, Elba. Our creative and high-quality six-course tasting menu with paired wines was created by Heinz Beck, who runs Rome's only three-Michelin-star restaurant, and produced by one of his protégés, Walter Canzio. The train stops for four or five hours every night, and over breakfast it was evident that the world divides into those who can sleep on moving trains, and those who can't – however comfortable the bed. Italy had the wit to retain many of its cross-country railway lines, which often venture into its equivalent of la France profonde, so it was a pleasure to reach Siena by the single-line route from Montepescali through remote countryside. Between woods, an avenue of slender cypresses led to a characteristic Tuscan farmhouse with arcaded veranda on the upper level, surrounded by fields of artichokes, vines and apple orchards. On distant hilltops, a jumble of pale brown houses rising above wooded slopes recalled a turbulent past, when villages were safer on high ground. Another form of endemic rivalry was the subject of our visit by minibus to meet the winning jockey of last year's Palio at his stables and training fields just outside Siena. Remarkably self-effacing for the man who had become the city's hero until the next Palio, Dino Pes took us through the Byzantine rules that govern the world's oldest horse race and the highlight of the Siena calendar since 1283. So fierce is the rivalry between the contrada, neighbourhoods traceable back to medieval guilds, that he has to be protected against malfeasance by four bodyguards from the moment he is selected until he enters the bareback race around the Campo. The three circuits took him just 75 seconds. Before lunch in the kind of unpretentious restaurant that Italy does so well, we had time to admire the jewel in the city's glorious Gothic cathedral, the Carrara marble pulpit sculpted in the 1260s by Giovanni Pisano, with its seven narrative panels of Christ's life and a cast of almost 400 figures. He also sculpted the statues encrusting the lavish facade, which still looks astonishingly crisp and unweathered. Because the train has to dovetail with passenger and freight trains or replenish water tanks, there are occasional longueurs in stations, but that is all part of slow travel. The train never exceeds 120 km/h, and – unlike on high-speed services – this lack of velocity makes it possible to actually admire the landscapes. As we headed back to Rome, morning mist was rising over the broad plain flanking the Tavere river. A long double avenue of umbrella pines shading a farm track spoke of the forethought of past generations. We skirted the lagoons enclosed by the peninsula of Monte Argentario, where the rackety life of Caravaggio came to an end in 1610, and as we approached Ostiense station, a large section of the Roman walls still stands beside the line. All this luxury and exclusive access comes with a steep price tag, of course: a single-night itinerary costs from $5480 per person. But strong forward bookings suggest there is healthy demand for this sort of five-star experience, and I was told some celebrities have booked the whole train. Arsenale certainly expects it to continue – a second train will be finished later this year, intended for a Rome to Istanbul journey, among others, and it is building a train for Saudi Arabia with plans for others in Egypt, UAE and Uzbekistan. The sweet life is going global, for those who can afford it.
The Age
22-04-2025
- The Age
On board the world's most luxurious new train
An ambitious programme of eight one and two-night itineraries covering 14 Italian regions has been devised, most starting and ending in Rome and the most elaborate entailing a transfer of the train across the Straits of Messina on a privately chartered vessel to Sicily for visits to Taormina and Palermo. Some thought two nights was the right duration, others wanted longer, but all agreed that more time at our destinations would have been welcomed, and that will be reflected in tweaks to tours. As invariably happens on hotel trains, guests from half a dozen countries soon bonded in the lounge car, where the bar and piano were placed between an area of sinuous banquettes and seats arranged in twos and fours. The youngest in the surprisingly wide age range were a couple from South Korea, evidently on their honeymoon. Other passengers included an investor who had been successful enough to retire early and become a professional bridge player, and a couple from Delhi in the legal profession. Most of us matched the glad rags of the pianist, saxophonist and singer entertaining us after dinner. The near extinction of proper dining cars on so many railways has increased the pleasure of eating in one, and we began lunch to views over a glittering bay to the island of Napoleon's first incarceration, Elba. Our creative and high-quality six-course tasting menu with paired wines was created by Heinz Beck, who runs Rome's only three-Michelin-star restaurant, and produced by one of his protégés, Walter Canzio. The train stops for four or five hours every night, and over breakfast it was evident that the world divides into those who can sleep on moving trains, and those who can't – however comfortable the bed. Italy had the wit to retain many of its cross-country railway lines, which often venture into its equivalent of la France profonde, so it was a pleasure to reach Siena by the single-line route from Montepescali through remote countryside. Between woods, an avenue of slender cypresses led to a characteristic Tuscan farmhouse with arcaded veranda on the upper level, surrounded by fields of artichokes, vines and apple orchards. On distant hilltops, a jumble of pale brown houses rising above wooded slopes recalled a turbulent past, when villages were safer on high ground. Another form of endemic rivalry was the subject of our visit by minibus to meet the winning jockey of last year's Palio at his stables and training fields just outside Siena. Remarkably self-effacing for the man who had become the city's hero until the next Palio, Dino Pes took us through the Byzantine rules that govern the world's oldest horse race and the highlight of the Siena calendar since 1283. So fierce is the rivalry between the contrada, neighbourhoods traceable back to medieval guilds, that he has to be protected against malfeasance by four bodyguards from the moment he is selected until he enters the bareback race around the Campo. The three circuits took him just 75 seconds. Before lunch in the kind of unpretentious restaurant that Italy does so well, we had time to admire the jewel in the city's glorious Gothic cathedral, the Carrara marble pulpit sculpted in the 1260s by Giovanni Pisano, with its seven narrative panels of Christ's life and a cast of almost 400 figures. He also sculpted the statues encrusting the lavish facade, which still looks astonishingly crisp and unweathered. Because the train has to dovetail with passenger and freight trains or replenish water tanks, there are occasional longueurs in stations, but that is all part of slow travel. The train never exceeds 120 km/h, and – unlike on high-speed services – this lack of velocity makes it possible to actually admire the landscapes. As we headed back to Rome, morning mist was rising over the broad plain flanking the Tavere river. A long double avenue of umbrella pines shading a farm track spoke of the forethought of past generations. We skirted the lagoons enclosed by the peninsula of Monte Argentario, where the rackety life of Caravaggio came to an end in 1610, and as we approached Ostiense station, a large section of the Roman walls still stands beside the line. All this luxury and exclusive access comes with a steep price tag, of course: a single-night itinerary costs from $5480 per person. But strong forward bookings suggest there is healthy demand for this sort of five-star experience, and I was told some celebrities have booked the whole train. Arsenale certainly expects it to continue – a second train will be finished later this year, intended for a Rome to Istanbul journey, among others, and it is building a train for Saudi Arabia with plans for others in Egypt, UAE and Uzbekistan. The sweet life is going global, for those who can afford it.
