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Spectator
16-07-2025
- Business
- Spectator
Do we really need state-funded restaurants?
Two British cities, Dundee and Nottingham, have been chosen as trial sites for a new government scheme to be piloted next year: state-subsidised restaurants. The Department for Science, Innovation and Technology has put up £1.5 million for the 12-month trial, initiated by the campaign group Nourish Scotland. If the restaurants are successful, they'll be rolled out across Britain – nourishing us all – with a subsidised meal for £3. Inspired by second world war state-funded canteens, they're going to be called 'Public Diners' – clever branding, with its quasi-American vibe. Their branding matters because – as anyone who ever ate greasy slop from a tray at a state-run stolovaya in Soviet Russia remembers – no-frills, state-funded restaurants are intrinsically drained of glamour. Today's fastidious British public will require a touch of coolness to entice them in. Winston Churchill also understood that branding mattered. When those state-funded canteens got going in 1940, he decreed that their name, 'communal feeding centres', was 'an odious expression, redolent of communism and the workhouse'. At one stroke, he transformed their image by branding them 'British Restaurants'. 'Everyone,' he said, 'associates the word 'restaurant' with a good meal.' The slogan for the new Public Diners on Nourish Scotland's website is 'an idea whose time has come'. 'They are a holistic food system intervention: for public health, climate and the right to food.' (So we're going to be preached at in noun-lumps, as well as fed.) If all goes to plan, we'll soon see these new, climate-friendly, taxpayer-subsidised diners, inspired also by Turkish public restaurants, Mexican public dining rooms and Polish milk bars. Are those countries really now our economic role models? It doesn't give one much confidence in how things are going. Hospitality entrepreneurs and executives are neither pleased nor impressed. These diners are 'a ludicrous idea,' says Hugh Osmond, co-founder of Pizza Express. Luke Johnson, chairman of Gail's, says the idea that state-backed restaurants could operate more efficiently than the private sector is 'beyond a joke'. You can see why they're worried. Life is tough enough for restaurant owners – hit with ballooning, government-enforced overheads – without this new undercutting from state-funded establishments. But you could argue that commercial restaurants have only themselves to blame. Their prices have rocketed far more steeply than people's pay. In the last ten years, the cost of a Pizza Express 'Margherita' pizza has gone up from £7.55 to £14.95. If the British salary had kept pace with the increasing price of a Margherita, it would have risen from £27,600 to £53,000 – whereas in fact it's £37,500. There may well be a need for 'somewhere where all of us can eat without stretching the budget'. 'What could possibly go wrong?' hospitality executives are wondering as they wait for the pilot branches of the diners to open. A contract to run them is expected to be tendered later this year. Though the restaurants themselves will be not-for-profit, the caterers who run them will be expecting to make money – as will the providers of the fittings and the produce. Governments don't have the best reputation when it comes to not being ripped off during the procurement process. The issue of precisely what food to serve is also going to be a minefield. Nourish Scotland's consultation exercise 'showed that there are plenty of challenges ahead when it comes to deciding on what food should be served in a Public Diner'. We're no longer the unfussy wartime population who gratefully scoffed a plateful of boiled cabbage and mashed potato. The food served in those wartime British Restaurants had three chief attributes: it was soft (designed for a nation with a high proportion of false teeth), bland (designed to avoid tummy upsets) and filling (designed to fatten up a thin population). Today's populace won't be so willing to eat up whatever's put in front of them. They'll expect their individual health- and religion-based dietary requirements to be respected. An added complication is that, far from aiming to fatten up the population, this new scheme aims to tackle obesity. The scheme also requires the food to be locally sourced, to fulfil the climate aspect of its brief. As Jeremy Clarkson showed us in the latest series of Clarkson's Farm, locally sourced food is expensive. How will that work, economically, for the taxpayer? It'll be fun seeing what dishes the various branches do decide to serve – and whether the scheme sparks a revival of distinctly British regional food. I hope the Dundee branch offers the local dish Cullen skink (smoked haddock and potato soup with milk), and the Nottingham one Sherwood Forest venison and stilton. Are Public Diners really 'an idea whose time has come', or are they in fact an idea whose time is long gone? The scheme's brochure celebrates, with some nostalgia, those morale-boosting wartime British Restaurants which brought everyone together. There was indeed a great charm about them. Kenneth Clark's wife Elizabeth arranged to borrow paintings from Buckingham Palace to hang on their walls, to cheer everyone up. Today's utopian ideal is that strangers will meet and make friends over their plates of spicy chickpea and potato tagine – and that this will be a new way of falling in love IRL rather than online. But British Restaurants had their moment – and that moment has gone. The government withdrew financial responsibility for them in 1949, and they dwindled away after rationing ended in the mid-1950s. The free market took over, and competitive hospitality businesses survived – or closed down – accordingly. Is this scheme really the best way to spend taxpayers' money? Essentially, those who don't go to the restaurants will be subsidising those who do. Surely our taxes would be better spent teaching schoolchildren how to fry an onion and make a cheap pasta sauce at home. This government is so much better at thinking of new ways of spending our money than of saving it.
Scottish Sun
11-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Scottish Sun
Pizza Express brings back beloved dish following customer backlash after axing it from menus
Upset patrons had previously called for the dish's return to menus back in action Pizza Express brings back beloved dish following customer backlash after axing it from menus Click to share on X/Twitter (Opens in new window) Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window) PIZZA Express has confirmed the return of a beloved dish after receiving customer backlash when it was axed from menus. Diners were left raging earlier this year when the "iconic" item was dropped. Sign up for Scottish Sun newsletter Sign up 2 The Calabrese first launched back in 2010 Credit: Pizza Express 2 Singer Ed Sheeran is a famous fan of the spicy pizza Credit: Pizza Express Pizza Express first launched the Calabrese - a hot and spicy sausage pizza - back in 2010. Coming back - but with a twist Although the dish is making a return, there's also a catch - as it is not officially on the menu. Customers will instead have to use a secret word to waiters to ensure they receive the spicy pizza. Big UK music star is a long-time supporter Meanwhile, Pizza Express counts singer Ed Sheeran among the popular dish's many fans. The Calabrese's return coincides with the 34-year-old's hometown performances in Ipswich this weekend. In January, patrons were very vocal in their anger over the Calabrese being axed - and shared their thoughts online. Blasting the decision on X, one angry customer wrote: 'How and why on earth have you ditched the calabrese? Is this a sick joke? 2025 ruined…' Another added: 'So… the Calabrese is your and my favourite pizza ever. 'So, why on earth did you remove it from your menu? I worked at Pizza Express washing pots when I was 17 - now I make £20k a MONTH... here's my best advice 'Bring it back!!!' A third fumed: 'Sincerely, you need to bring back the Calabrese. "It's the only reason I came to Pizza Express, my favourite pizza from anywhere. "Sad day when you stopped it. Could you reconsider?' How the Calabrese came to be The Calabrese was created by Michelin-starred chef Francesco Mazzei in 2010 to highlight the cuisine of Calabria, a region in southern Italy. Pizza Express said previously: 'We're famous for our iconic menu items, from cult favourite – the American - to our delicious Padana. 'While we appreciate the Calabrese had a strong fanbase, we are always innovating and offering new flavours and dishes for our customers to fall in love with. 'That means we have said goodbye to our Calabrese for now, but you never know what may appear (or reappear!) in the future.'
The Sun
11-07-2025
- Entertainment
- The Sun
Pizza Express brings back beloved dish following customer backlash after axing it from menus
PIZZA Express has confirmed the return of a beloved dish after receiving customer backlash when it was axed from menus. Diners were left raging earlier this year when the "iconic" item was dropped. 2 Pizza Express first launched the Calabrese - a hot and spicy sausage pizza - back in 2010. Coming back - but with a twist Although the dish is making a return, there's also a catch - as it is not officially on the menu. Customers will instead have to use a secret word to waiters to ensure they receive the spicy pizza. Big UK music star is a long-time supporter Meanwhile, Pizza Express counts singer Ed Sheeran among the popular dish's many fans. The Calabrese's return coincides with the 34-year-old's hometown performances in Ipswich this weekend. In January, patrons were very vocal in their anger over the Calabrese being axed - and shared their thoughts online. Blasting the decision on X, one angry customer wrote: 'How and why on earth have you ditched the calabrese? Is this a sick joke? 2025 ruined…' Another added: 'So… the Calabrese is your and my favourite pizza ever. 'So, why on earth did you remove it from your menu? I worked at Pizza Express washing pots when I was 17 - now I make £20k a MONTH... here's my best advice 'Bring it back!!!' A third fumed: 'Sincerely, you need to bring back the Calabrese. "It's the only reason I came to Pizza Express, my favourite pizza from anywhere. "Sad day when you stopped it. Could you reconsider?' How the Calabrese came to be The Calabrese was created by Michelin-starred chef Francesco Mazzei in 2010 to highlight the cuisine of Calabria, a region in southern Italy. Pizza Express said previously: 'We're famous for our iconic menu items, from cult favourite – the American - to our delicious Padana. 'While we appreciate the Calabrese had a strong fanbase, we are always innovating and offering new flavours and dishes for our customers to fall in love with. 'That means we have said goodbye to our Calabrese for now, but you never know what may appear (or reappear!) in the future.'
Yahoo
20-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
I tried PizzaExpress' new summer menu in Bexleyheath - I found the best new pizza
I tried PizzaExpress' new summer menu at the Bexleyheath branch – and found the best pizza I've ever eaten. PizzaExpress has always been my go-to spot for a relaxed meal out. As someone who eats gluten-free, I've found they cater brilliantly without sacrificing taste or options. So when I heard about their new summer menu, I couldn't wait to give it a try. Gluten-free diner finds spicy perfection in PizzaExpress' Calabrian Feast (Image: Holly Brencher) We started with the new Buffalo Chicken Wings and Buttermilk Chicken Strips. The wings were coated in Sauce Shop's Buffalo Hot Sauce and served with a creamy blue cheese dip. They were messy in the best way – tangy, spicy and completely addictive. Buffalo wings and buttermilk strips kick off PizzaExpress summer feast (Image: Holly Brencher) The buttermilk strips were perfectly golden and crispy, great for dipping and sharing. Both dishes felt fresh, packed with flavour and ideal for kicking things off. For drinks, we tried the new Soho Spritz. It was fruity and refreshing without being too sweet – ideal for summer. And with their current deal of two for £12, it felt like a bargain. Then it was time for the pizzas. Four Seasons Speciale offers a flavourful twist on a classic favourite (Image: Holly Brencher) I started with the Four Seasons Speciale – a modern rework of their iconic 1965 pizza. I ordered it on a gluten-free base, and as always, it was crisp and light without falling apart. Each quarter of the pizza had a different topping, which made it ideal for someone indecisive like me. One part had pepperoni and Calabrese sausage, bringing heat and richness. Another was topped with baby plum tomatoes and basil pesto, fresh and herby. There was also a quarter with mushrooms and truffle oil, which felt indulgent and earthy. And the last section – salty anchovies, olives and capers – packed a real flavour punch. It's a pizza that truly has something for everyone. But then came the real star of the meal – the Calabrian Feast. Calabrian Feast crowned standout dish in new PizzaExpress lineup (Image: Holly Brencher) This was honestly the best pizza I've ever eaten. It was loaded with 'nduja, Calabrese sausage, pepperoni and crispy pancetta. On top of that were two types of mozzarella, Gran Milano cheese and an extra chilli kick. The finishing touch was a drizzle of hot honey, which balanced the heat beautifully. Every bite was packed with bold, spicy flavour and rich, creamy cheese. It was indulgent, fiery and unforgettable. Now, I didn't try it myself, but PizzaExpress has found a bold new way to tackle the pineapple-on-pizza debate. Instead of serving it on pizza, they've created Hawaiian Hot Dough Balls. Tossed in garlic butter, topped with pancetta and pineapple, and drizzled with Pineapple Habanero Hot Sauce, they're certainly a talking point. According to new research from the brand, the UK is split 50/50 on pineapple on pizza. But more than half of people say they'd try these new Dough Balls, which just might be the middle ground we've all been waiting for. For dessert, we had the Birthday Cake Sundae. It was sweet, playful and totally satisfying. Birthday Cake Sundae ends the meal on a sweet, festive note (Image: Holly Brencher) Layers of vanilla gelato, raspberry coulis, whipped cream and sprinkles made it feel like a celebration. It even had a mini sponge cake and a topping of Joe & Seph's Birthday Cake Popcorn. A proper party in a glass. PizzaExpress has nailed it with this summer menu. They've kept their classics while bringing in bold new flavours and playful twists. Whether you're a spice lover, a sweet tooth or someone who wants variety, there's something here for you. And for gluten-free diners like me, it's one of the few places where you feel totally looked after. The Calabrian Feast alone is worth the visit. This menu is a summer treat that genuinely delivers.
Graziadaily
19-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Graziadaily
This Is The New Pizza Menu You'll Keep Coming Back To
We all have our old favourites at Pizza Express – dough balls, Sloppy Giuseppe and American Hot for us, thanks – but you'll be pleased to hear that they have switched up their menu for the summer - and it's delicious. The top chain's new menu, which launched on 10 June, sees fresh twists on old regulars along with some new additions. And if you think that all Pizza Express have to offer are pizzas and dough balls, then you may find yourself pleasantly surprised... So what's new at Pizza Express this summer? This menu is Grazia approved, as tried and tested by the entire team... Hawaiian Hot Dough Balls ©Pizza Express Say Aloha to this new take on the iconic starter. Tossed in garlic butter and loaded with crispy pancetta, pineapple pieces and parsley, then drizzled with The Sauce Shop's fiery Pineapple Habanero Hot Sauce, this dish is hot to go. Calabrian Feast ©Pizza Express A fiery meat lover's feast, this creation – which is packed with some serious heat – is loaded with 'nduja, Calabrese sausage, pepperoni and crispy pancetta, then layered with two types of creamy mozzarella, Gran Milano cheese. There's an extra addition of chilli and topped off with a drizzle of hot honey. Four Seasons Speciale ©Pizza Express There's something for everyone on this reimagined 1965 fave. Each quarter features different pizza toppings. One quarter has baby plum tomatoes, basil and pine kernel pesto and mozzarella, the second has pepperoni and Calabrese sausage, the third quarter features mushroom, truffle oil and Gran Milano cheese, while the fourth section is full of anchovies, capers and olives. on this iconic pizza. Buffalo Chicken Wings ©Pizza Express These are the latest addition to their current starters – which includes calamari, meatballs al forno, mozzarella sticks, Caprese salad and bruschetta. These chicken wings are smothered in spicy buffalo sauce, sprinkled with parsley and served with a classic cool blue cheese dip. Tasty! Birthday Cake Sundae ©Pizza Express Finish off your meal with this party in a glass. The perfect sharing treat, it has creamy vanilla gelato, a mini vanilla sponge cake filled with buttercream and raspberry jam, topped off with raspberry coulis, whipped cream and a sprinkle of Joe and Seph's gourmet Birthday Cake Popcorn. Find your nearest Pizza Express here. Shereen Low is a senior news and entertainment writer for Grazia UK, who has covered some of the biggest showbiz news from the past decade.
